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View Full Version : THING Cube 3 Extruder HUB - KISS Method (DiY version by TommyDee)



bolsoncerrado
05-30-2017, 09:56 PM
Enjoy this state of the art Extruder HUB I've been (beta)testing lately from TommyDee!

FULLY PRINTABLE!
Jut use the same screws that come with the original cart and either a M5 or M6 pneumatic fitting (http://amzn.to/2rl4qXF) screw (both versions included) for the OD4ID2 PFTE tube (http://amzn.to/2qDsYqA) you should have by now... Also featuring a smart CHIP holder (up to two hold in place, 1 active, 1 spare) you don't even need to glue (magic pressure!):

http://i.imgur.com/X1eePBy.png


https://www.dropbox.com/sh/pwcfss73nnavwyn/AABbXmiecTROmWIadpHMPNopa

Any questions, feel free to post them!



PS. BONUS TRACK! A neat box to store your chips (http://www.print3dforum.com/showthread.php/916-The-Printing-Lounge?p=41578&viewfull=1#post41578)!! :) Courtesy of TommyDee


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Ic1umxHNfQ




If this helps... as they come off the printer:

http://www.print3dforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=2145&d=1496204991http://www.print3dforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=2146&d=1496205025http://www.print3dforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=2147&d=1496205077http://www.print3dforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=2148&d=1496205111http://www.print3dforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=2149&d=1496205299

TommyDee
05-30-2017, 10:49 PM
June'17 Update

I have updated the -official- release.
This includes a left and right side despooler.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0By-9ThR4U7GkQVZmcjNCcHVLR3c/view?usp=sharing

!No worries, nothing changed! Just added good stuff.
This hub requires at a minimum: the Hub, 1 of the Clamps; M5 or M6, and the Chip Holders.
This will let you use a remote spool. You must have experience with providing a tube option to the hub.
If you wish to adapt the stock 3DS spool, the included despooler option requires hardware;
2-each M5 x 8(-12) cap screws are recommended -or- any other clever alternative of which there are plenty.

I did remove the lame spool holders and replaced it with one that has a despooling feature.
I included a left and right side despooler arm so that they can both point to one side of the printer.
I also removed all the lame alternatives discussed in 5 pages of minutia regarding tube alternatives.
You can still use the accessory adapter STL models strewn about the post as-you-will.
I've had mixed results from the alternatives. Still open to skunk works discussions.

Back to the show -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------



I could never have been that concise! :rolleyes:

I do have an album's worth of images.
Here's the icon version

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File stats:
Hub: 4:09 37 grams
Clamp: 3:23 26 grams
Chip holders: 0:44 4 grams
options:
Spool holder: 0:46 7G

IAmOrion
05-31-2017, 12:01 AM
Any chance of STLs so I can print on a different printer?

TommyDee
05-31-2017, 01:49 AM
I am trying to control what is out there.
This removed 90% of the questions that arise from setup problems.

I do want to challenge the coders to find a way to make .cube3 files useful.
Can we extract a sliced .bfb from the .cube3?

Mythandar
05-31-2017, 04:27 AM
I do want to challenge the coders to find a way to make .cube3 files useful.
Can we extract a sliced .bfb from the .cube3?

My program I posted yesterday does this. If you just go as far as step 3 (convert) then you'll have the extracted .bfb in your save directory. It doesn't change the original .bfb, only creates a new one with -modified after the file name when you change the temp.

TommyDee
06-02-2017, 07:23 PM
I was kind of thinking that was the case. Thanks M.

Anyone if free to post files and results.

If this helps... as they come off the printer:

2145214621472205

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Interesting thought.

Turns out the nut for a true 3mm tubing is an imperial #5.
This should thread onto a 3mm tubing without restricting the ID significantly.
This nut we can capture in the accessory mount similar to the #8.
This would solve the top-entry fixed systems as well as the completely stock tubing if it is still serviceable.
Of course, you can even keep the stock barrel nut for the stock 2.8mm tubing.
This means the splice method is also valid for joining 2 of the stock 2.8mm tubes.

The only thing you give up with 3mm tubing is the simple release mechanism of the quick release.
3mm push to connect fittings don't work well with the pressures of the filament feeder.

One can always join two 4mm tubes with 2 fittings on both ends of a printed tube.
That way, the disconnect can be made in the middle of the line.
In theory, you could still do a hot-swap with this method.
It all depends on restrictions inside the hot-end.

One thing we cannot loose sight of:
The entire intent of the push-to-connect fitting solution is to do quick and simple filament changes.
Sticking with 3mm tubing or not having a hot-end solution for quick disconnect means the filament change becomes more complex.
If this is acceptable, This hub solution only requires a pair of screws to attach the adapter.
I recommend M5 x 8 Socket Cap screws.
But this doesn't mean you cannot use slightly longer M5 screws, self tapping screw of an appropriate size; flat head screws; wood screws; or what have you. As long as you make a solid connection without shredding the clamp, you are golden!
In addition, I did provide 2 each M4 through holes on the face of the clamp in case that is the only way you can mound an adapter of any flavor.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ETMJjihjYnU

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Do I remember something like this being posted as a wish list item?

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That's a 1/2Kg of filament. They are 1Kg spools. Clamp is holding! More tests to come.

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This was fun :)


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KrAXFGEq-GE

Programeitor3d
06-03-2017, 12:35 PM
I already printed it and it is working very well! Is it possible to lengthen the supports of the Spool Holder for use with another type of wider filament spool?

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TommyDee
06-03-2017, 06:01 PM
Thanks for sharing P3.

The idea of the two M5 screw holes is to mount your flavor of spool holder.
The available template is a stub where you can add material if you have access to something where you can manipulate .STL file.
I do know you can add simple geometry in MeshMixer. Quite clunky, but doable.

I am working on a locking version of the clamp that should manage 1kg spools reliably.

Programeitor3d
06-03-2017, 06:49 PM
Thank you very much!
I have a reel of 350grams, but they are wider and the piece SpoolHolder_lp1200.cube is somewhat short, can you attach the .stl version for me to lengthen it and adjust for my filament spools?

TommyDee
06-03-2017, 08:11 PM
Just this once :p

Programeitor3d
06-03-2017, 09:25 PM
Many thanks Tommy !!! I will modify for my reels FLEX 350g of smartfill !!

dwhttnbrg
06-05-2017, 11:04 PM
Have mine printed and working, but it seems to be pushing really hard against the fitting. Anyone else notice this. Worried about it breaking with just the 2 screws in the front.

bolsoncerrado
06-06-2017, 01:01 AM
Be sure the clamps are tight (try to pull the DIY CLAMP part from the printer, it should NOT move!) If one of the clamps is not perfectly snapped, the slight displacement of the filament mouth will make clicking sounds or push against the walls instead....

MegaloDon
06-06-2017, 01:11 AM
If one of the clamps is not perfectly snapped, the slight displacement of the filament mouth will make clicking sounds or push against the walls instead....
Is that where your clicking sound was coming from?

bolsoncerrado
06-06-2017, 01:50 AM
The one in the video? No, that one was clearly coming from the bed, probably bc i havent leveled it for ages hehe

TommyDee
06-06-2017, 03:03 AM
Click...
2166


Check...
2167

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Have mine printed and working, but it seems to be pushing really hard against the fitting. Anyone else notice this. Worried about it breaking with just the 2 screws in the front.

Please clarify what you mean by pushing against the fitting. Pictures help too :)
But I agree, there is a lot of pressure associated with the filament feeding.

I'm not understanding what the "2 screws" have to do with the fitting.

To be clear, there are 2 clamps so people can use an M5 or M6 thread on the fitting.
Each is marked on the inside to show the printed thread in the part.

If you opt for the hex-nut solution with the printed adapter, the two M5 threads on the top of the clamp are more than enough to hold the tubing in place.
The little screw holes, not so much.

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You might look here too...Check for resistance in the hole (where the drill bit is) with filament that has gone through the cog.
If you feel restriction, the hole needs to be enlarged. The goal is 2.2mm diameter.


The intent is to minimize the hole (from 2-2.2mm diameter) to help drive the filament into the next element.
The next element should be a piece of 4mm tubing with a lead-in chamfer. In that case, you can drill that hole out to nearly 3mm.

- - - - - - - - - -

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It is worth spending some time in this section to know that the filament will always feed without getting stuck.


And on that thought, there is a word of warning!
Do not allow the filament to drive into the grippers inside the fitting!
The filament will deform the gripper metal fingers and later the tube will not pull out or be more difficult to remove.
Connect the 4mm tube going to the hot-end before feeding the filament.

(Alternatively, feed the filament while holding the fitting cap. Not always reliable and you will poke your finger more than once.)

- - - - - - - - - -

If you are using a fitting with an M6 thread, this is the recommenced lead-in solution, but the hole has to be kept at or under 2.2mm diameter.
This is a piece of stock tubing that happens to fit through the fitting. The 4mm tube keeps it in place.


2169

A lot of care is taken in the design in providing elements for difficult situations or marginal prints.
Whatever you run across, just post the details and preferably a picture to know exactly what and where you are referring to.
I can pretty much address anything because I've already done it twice.
I even got bit by the clearance issue x2 last night :p

Make sure the tractored filament runs free in the tube from one end to the other without hang-ups! This is true all the way into the hot-end.

I have well over 80 printing hours on this design and I am here to say it is achievable.

dwhttnbrg
06-06-2017, 03:03 AM
I am using little screws. What size are the screws for the big holes?

TommyDee
06-06-2017, 03:33 AM
Feeder tube...
CHECK FOR INTERFERENCE DUE TO SMALL TUBE ID AT THE BARREL NUT!

Should always feed; no hang-ups once the filament is placed at the driver.

2171

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I am using little screws. What size are the screws for the big holes?

M5 x 8 preferred up to M5 x 12 socket cap screws (per images)

But if you have 3mm hardware, you can drop a nut onto the pocket (bottom of M5 thread) and use a long 3mm screw and washer in the adapter.
This will be more than strong enough.

But how does this relate to the fitting? Just curious as to what you actually assembling.

- - - - - - - - - -

As for the chips, they should look like this when installed.
They are just sub-surface of the face of the holder, top and bottom.

2172

Remove all the supports (they break away with pliers).
Activate the clamp by separating the tabs.
This pulls apart any bonded filament between the two halves.

Clean any remaining adhesive from the chip.
Place the edge with the two aligned bars against the flat edge (orient as shown).
Separate the tabs again and -lightly- push the chip into the holder once the it clears the edge.
Check that the entire chip is slightly sub-surface.
The gap at the tabs should be close to what is shown if the chip is properly seated.

If, when installing the chip holder in the hub it gets too tight, stop pushing and confirm the holder will fit without the chip.
the first time might be quite snug, but subsequent installations will loosen up a bit.
The holder nor the chips should ever be able to just fall out.
I've been throwing these things around and haven't had to dig out a flashlight yet.

- - - - - - - - - -

What am I forgetting?

- - - - - - - - - -

Ah, and I did test this... and it works with a full stock spool.
Those are #2 self tapping screws 1/2" long.

2173

dwhttnbrg
06-07-2017, 03:54 PM
I am also having issues with the filament pushing the PTFE tubing out of the fitting after 30 min or so of printing.

TommyDee
06-07-2017, 04:17 PM
There is so much out there it is hard to know what is quality and what is more junk.

It is funny how the 3D Printer crowd determined that PTFE and push-to-connect fittings can be used together reliably.
In fact, PTFE is not qualified for Push-To-Connect fittings. It just happens to work for a lot of people.

You are using 4mm tubing, right? What fitting? Picture here will still help a lot!

- - - - - - - - - -

This solution is giving me a hard time keeping the tube ID open to 2mm.

Same problem as stock. Not sure if we can make this reliable.

bolsoncerrado
06-07-2017, 04:44 PM
I am also having issues with the filament pushing the PTFE tubing out of the fitting after 30 min or so of printing.

That is weird that it pushes it "AFTER" 30min of printing....perhaps your filament breaks and one of the sections is the one that pushes it upwards?

If only we could "relax" the allowance for bigger filament at gears level :(

dwhttnbrg
06-07-2017, 05:04 PM
I have 3mm OD tubing. I just swapped from a piece of PTFE to some thicker walled stuff. Here is what I currently have going. 21752176

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no, you can watch it pushing it the whole time. it just finally give way after about 30 min.

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Sometimes I love these little printers, and other times I want to go back to my DIY I3. :rolleyes:
Most of the time, I am glad I also have my Solidoodle 3 to fall back on when the cubes are giving me fits.

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I am now noticing that the clear stuff is what I am having trouble with. I replaced it with the same dimension tubing I had left from my RepRap, that is white and a bit thicker. It doesn't seem to be pushing the fitting quite so hard. Maybe the clear stuff is so thin walled the fitting cant hold it. If that's the case, I can always use it for lead in for the filament.

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What tubing is recommended for Push Connectors?

TommyDee
06-07-2017, 06:04 PM
OH! I see what is wrong...

The fitting should be installed in the clamp, not the adapter.
You want the spool-holder that has the open area where the fitting goes.

Yes, 3mm tubing is problematic.

I think one person found the fittings that grip 3mm well. Mine just peel out.

The clear stuff is probably FEP Teflon. It is rated for push-to-connect but peels right out of 3mm fittings leaving a thin shaving of Teflon.
That material seems to have a lot of stiction with PLA... meaning that just sliding past each other, they then to have too much friction.

Here is the version you want for a fitting threaded into the clamp.
The attached file is the black accessory adapter.

2180

dwhttnbrg
06-08-2017, 12:15 AM
Corrected the holder, seems to be a little better now. I have printed for 6 hours without any issues.

TommyDee
06-08-2017, 11:24 PM
Since I am still waiting for my laser thermometer to start the heated bed project, I am working on one more skunk works accessory.

In order to complete this as a fully printable program, we need to finish the hot-end. This requires printed tools.

This is a ways out, but once this project is complete, it will go on Thingiverse with all the KISS options for the Qube.

So if there is anything that is still lacking for this solution, it is good to speak up.
And I am all for anyone that comes up with a useful accessory to post it.
I need to put a stake in this one sometime soon.

- - - - - - - - - -

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Can you identify the upgrade? :cool:


FORWORD:
The philosophy behind all these modifications is to take a stock 3DS cartridge, and with minimal shopping, you can rebuild your Cube 3 filament feeder system to demonstrate much improved reliability over the stock cartridges. For a DIY effort, that is saying a lot!

Minimal shopping takes into account "conventional" components required to completely replace the feeder tube from the stock 3DS cartridges. Often the manufacturing process that adds the caterpillar covering to the Teflon tube creates the very problem many 3DS cartridges exhibit with stripping filament, poor feeding, and breaking filament due to insufficient clearance inside the tube.

REQUIREMENTS:
You need to know about Push-to-Connect fittings, or "fittings" as commonly referred to here.
Most of these are 4mm tube connectors, but the thread that installs them is commonly either an M5 or an M6 thread.
Therefore, the provided solution set includes clamps for both M5 and M6 threaded fittings. You only need to print one appropriate for the fittings on hand, and follow the best practice routine for ensuring smooth filament feeding.

Screws are necessary only if you plan to mount the spool holder. So if you have another means to manage a spool of filament, no worries... no screws needed.

If you do wish to install the optional stock spool holder, the screw I recommend is an M5 socket cap screw somewhere between 8-12mm long. These are very common at hardware stores and bicycle shops. Flathead M5 screws at 12-16mm long will also work.
If for some reason, that is just not achievable, there is also room for M3 hardware if you place a nut inside the pocket at the end of the M5 threads. Now you can use a M3 screw (not sure the length) and a washer to achieve the same means. And if that is not enough, there are also small holes that will accommodate a #2 or an M2 screw. the holes in the front of the clamp are intended for M4 screws, but again, a lot of options will fit in those holes as well.

NOTICE:
This will be the limit for support on the DIY feeder system. Do note that the clamp does have additional holes for mounting accessories. Making your own spool holder, for instance, is encouraged. Several skunk-works projects will ultimately pop up but they are experimental at best.

FEEDER TUBE NOTES:
The 4mm tubing itself is another quagmire. If you are familiar with the fittings, you have also become familiar with the tubing. The tubing can be as much of a problem as the stock cartridges are. I have tried all the material types and several quality levels. Turns out the Chinese PTFE tubing from some suppliers is reliable. If you have a manufacturer that provides your tubing for your other printers, and it works reliably, please post up what you find that works and where to get it.

Also know that turning a tube in the fitting will ruin the tube, and possibly the fitting when you try to separate them. These compromised tubes require maintenance! If the end if rasped from the fitting's grippers, it needs to be trimmed. This is important for the hygiene of your system. Scraped or sluffed Teflon particles in the hot end can only be bad. Cut the tube to about 20 inches or 1/2 meter. You can trim the tube many time until it gets down to about 17 inches or 0.42 meters.

HOTEND:
The hot end is still a work in progress but I think with a few printed tools, this too can be accomplished with ease.

CLOSING:
I am happy that I embarked on this effort not only to understand the intricacies of this type of system, but to understand just how minimalist one can become before the system is again unreliable. There are still some open questions but for the most part, between the code hack and an upgraded feeding systems, we can certainly print with less concern and higher reliability than crossing your fingers that the latest cartridge you purchased will actually print something useful before the counter goes to zero.
Without this ability to make cheap prints, even the KISS developers would have no choice but to limit their efforts based on cost tolerance for new cartridges. This is one area 3DS completely missed the mark. Cost of ownership and system reliability go hand in hand.
3DS failed, and continues to fail delivering reliable cartridges. This leaves the question open: What is the real reason the Qube was discontinued by 3D Systems?

bolsoncerrado
06-09-2017, 02:32 AM
...speaking of which, latest of your released versions had some sort of "pins" that Im still trying to figure out where do they go. Either that or I removed something that looked like a support and it wasnt. LOL

TommyDee
06-09-2017, 06:45 AM
PIX! pix pix... (10)

You mean those little posts to hold the bridge to hold the opening for the sword through dude's face?
Those are just supports ;)

bolsoncerrado
06-09-2017, 09:25 AM
On the clamp part, onboth sides, some openings you....added? :D

TommyDee
06-09-2017, 05:23 PM
They are supports too.

Those are holes for the grenade pins.
That is the locking feature.

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That one is not actually released, Bo. I still need to print the latest clamp but this is the assembly with the added despooler arm.

2185

NOTE: I am finding that a 1kg spool will tilt this assembly too much and cause undue strain on the driver.
A 1/4kg (full stock spool) seems to be working well.

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It's the little things that matter :)

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Programeitor3d
06-11-2017, 02:03 PM
[QUOTE=TommyDee; 41631] Sólo por esta vez :p[/ QUOTE]

Modified the piece and it is perfect for my reels smartfill of 300 grams. !! Thanks Tommy !!

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TommyDee
06-11-2017, 04:56 PM
Beautiful. How much longer did you need to make it?
And what is the diameter of that spool?

Programeitor3d
06-11-2017, 07:42 PM
Very little time with 3dbuilder, cut, copy, paste! And is 45mm ..
It works well with 300 gram reels but with 1 kilo the chip is disconnected and the cube indicates that I have 30 seconds to put the cartridge back!

TommyDee
06-11-2017, 08:01 PM
1kg is too much. I'm working on a printable filament boat for this.

I haven't had a disconnect from the larger spool, but I can certainly detect the strain.

I am suggesting that a full stock spool is about the limit for the lever this creates.
After that, it needs a support on the outside of the spool. A simple post may do.
This might be a good use of the two holes in the front of the clamp.

P3D; For the stock spool, I used 1.3" clearance for holding the spool.
I can make a quick stretch of the new "Adder" filament despooler.
Just let me know how thick that spool is.

bolsoncerrado
06-11-2017, 08:17 PM
I still need to test your last clamp but woud love to have 1kg suppot too...Or i may try the respooler that french user uploaded here.....

TommyDee
06-11-2017, 10:41 PM
The last skunk-works print files you have is a 1kg clamp.
That is what the locks are for in the clamp.
It works fine for 1kg but it needs a support under the outer end.
If you make a post to support the cap, you're done.

bolsoncerrado
06-11-2017, 11:53 PM
support? post? where??

TommyDee
06-12-2017, 01:02 AM
Something between the floor (whatever the cube is sitting on) and the end of the clamp with the protrusion.

I'm thinking something like a foot with a small post holes and a seat that supports the protrusion.

Now add some bamboo skewers as posts and you have a lightweight simple support.

chaman
06-12-2017, 03:49 AM
I still need to test your last clamp but woud love to have 1kg suppot too...Or i may try the respooler that french user uploaded here.....
Acutely I'm a Syrian user but I live in France ��

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@Tommy
Thanks a lot for the extruder hub ,, you did a great job
Do you plan to upload your design as stl ,, I have some ideas for some modification but I dont have time to start from zero , if you can share your design as stl it will be easier to make some modifications

TommyDee
06-12-2017, 04:18 AM
I'm all for the challenge of reverse engineering a .cube3 files.
I want that to be successful. The more people learn about the 3DS encoding, the better.

However, there are fundamental reasons I will not share my core designs. I would ask that be respected.
Copy all you want... that too is encouraged. I'll even give you the critical numbers as needed.
I do this for a living, and in my circles, collaboration is always rewarded. Taking over is a recipe for failure.

Practical reasons for the .cube3 files includes appropriate orientation for certain features.
No guessing or experimenting on settings I haven't tested yet, or will never test.
No having to ask 20 questions before even contemplating a query about a specific print... shall I go on?
Okay, maybe M. can overwrite global settings, but for the most part, if you print the .cube3 file, it will work!

Saying that, please share what you are thinking and I would consider incorporation the mod for you to test with due credit.

rl.d
06-14-2017, 03:18 AM
Hi Tommy, thanks for sharing .cube file,

last a try it works great, i use extruder with original before, add tube for filament stand,
i think add small metal (2 pcs, same with original catrigge) will be more strong hold, maybe? or i'm wrong, i try to mod from file that i'm print, cause just .cube i have.

here pic i use before2202

TommyDee
06-14-2017, 03:43 AM
There is an advantage to your solution rl.d.
The case is very well supported on the back of the cartridge against the printer's wall.
This minimizes the tilt with cantilevered weight.
The polycarbonate shell maintains its shape much better than PLA and ABS under pressure also.

I still like the various cartridge mods depending on what I am doing.
I still need to remain mobile with my printers so KISS carts are viable solutions.

I think you have overcome the biggest challenge for trying to print something similar.
Using an element designed for the job.

rl.d
06-14-2017, 05:27 AM
may the tube holder will give good tension, because cylinder good for cantilever? i still try to make holder so can use with your kiss method. may i share it

TommyDee
06-14-2017, 04:34 PM
Thanks. I am covered for my needs.
I never really wanted to make filament boats but now I have 2.
Holding stock spools is working well for me on the clamp.


However, there may be others interested.

As I've said from the very beginning of the hub projects;
There is significant functionality in the original cartridges that is useful and probably needed.
Their only weakness is the size and the latches.
Latches can be replaced with a simple clamp and the rest of the cartridges is still completely functional.

To me, KISS carts are still the best portable solution. They are more compact when you remove the tube.
They are robust; they are reliable; they are refillable. Only downside is the chip being dedicated to the cart.

one improvement I can see on the tube is to make it removable... like a pocket to slide the tube into.
You can bolt the seat on the cartridge and simply slide the tube in, similar to a tripod camera mount without the latch.
This would compact the solution for storage or transport.

rl.d
06-18-2017, 02:19 PM
i'm agree that kiss method is good solution.
i try several, but my pla is empty, i want to print with abs with 1cm brim,
i know you cannot share your stl, but can you help me so i can try with my abs? or share with other format
thanks dee

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may i try with stand holder to ground, to make support for 1kg filament or above
thanks

TommyDee
06-18-2017, 05:41 PM
I can help you with that. Happy to help with special requests.
The only thing I ask is that you report the results, good, bad, or otherwise.

Please confirm the full setting you prefer:
Left/ABS/200/Strong/Cross no-supports and Sidewalks on
Clamp/hub/chip holders... do you also need the new de-spooler?

Oh, and which clamp, M5 or M6?

rl.d
06-18-2017, 10:39 PM
wow, i'm very pleasant, thank you very much Dee, i hope no to bother you,

my setting abs left side, other setting as original first you share, no sidewalk n support (support use with object you manual create) , just add manual brim object with 1cm width dan 0.2mm height (that ussualy i use for abs with blue tape and white glue solution for bed adhesive)

clamp i use m6, can you make with m10 too? may i try with new de-spooler?

thank you Dee
last i try this kiss method with my last pla, its worked great, i print with 14hours successfull,
just i want to mod with iron clip (as original cattrige) at diy_hub,

ps i share my setting with abs

TommyDee
06-18-2017, 11:44 PM
I'm going to suggest the sidewalk will function better as a brim then my attempt.

We can give it a try...
Linked is the set of 4 files. I have the sidewalks turned on.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0By-9ThR4U7GkaWZjTE11V3lrNGs/view?usp=sharing

Are you using LokBuild or stock plate? The de-spooler will run into the cube logo on the plate.
Won't bother the print, but just so you know. Fill with white glue may help.
There is an orientation for the small holes I am preserving.
I didn't want to shove the part all the way over to the edge.
The brim limits my positioning.

As for M10, that will require an adapter. Enjoy making one if you really want one :)
At some point I have to limit the scope.

rl.d
06-19-2017, 12:41 AM
nice Dee, thank you very much

i use cheap 3mm glass, when i use cube print sidewalk, not perfect at all, just my solution work.

cubeprint sidewalk run 2 layer height, so make it warping i think

anyway thanks a lot, may i buy pla first to make it perfect

TommyDee
06-19-2017, 01:30 AM
The most success I've had with ABS is 3D Builder.
Their rafts work wonders with the exception of cleanup.
No problem if it doesn't matter.

The design is tolerant of significant warp.
By the time the things that matter get printed, a curl at the floor matters little.

Blow dryer blowing on the build plate ??? :p

I put reliefs in the despooler. The sidewalk probably undid all that effort :)

Let us know how it turns out if you go there.
...or anyone else for that matter.

- - - - - - - - - -

Update for everyone else posted here: http://www.print3dforum.com/showthread.php/1005-Cube-3-Extruder-HUB-KISS-Method-(DiY-version-by-TommyDee)?p=41580&viewfull=1#post41580

2212

rl.d
06-19-2017, 02:03 AM
just let white glue dry in blue tape, n start the print, thats all
this is very usefull even with arch model that need the solid n flat surface

did u try with 1kg filament? they work?

actually u cannot connect my cube over usb until know, so i cant use 3d builder, i try last as your guide, still not work

TommyDee
07-08-2017, 06:22 AM
My biggest hesitation to using 3DB is the need to remain connected.

I will no longer hang a 1KG spool on this clamp.
It becomes too cantilevered and adds to the torque of the drive motor as the clamp deflects from intended clearances.
A stock spool full is ~1/3kg. That seems to be working well. ...and quite convenient if you have a nice collection of stock spools.

- - - - - - - - - -

...and it's live https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2351218

- - - - - - - - - -

An offshoot despooler set per Bo's request.
D1=140mm D2=44mm T=45
L & R 01:30 each

2228
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0By-9ThR4U7GkTWN2VkVUaXpTaVE/view?usp=sharing

bolsoncerrado
07-09-2017, 12:09 PM
Ty Sir!

Just for the record these should work with the new bq 300gr Filament spools (https://www.en3dstudios.com/shop/3d-printer-filament/1-75mm-bq-pla/300gr-0-66lb/) ;)

TommyDee
07-09-2017, 04:14 PM
Looking forward to your filament review, Bo :)

Looks like Amazon handles BQ 1Kg spools for $25 shipped domestically.
Not a bad price.

bolsoncerrado
07-09-2017, 06:21 PM
I never asked but im 99,9% sure its the same filament on both spool types... I have had mixed experiences with bq filament....they're not perfect, but do the job.

bolsoncerrado
07-09-2017, 06:21 PM
Oh btw, that's bc they're releasing their own "Cube 3"....
https://www.bq.com/en/pr-witboxgo

TommyDee
08-07-2017, 05:19 PM
That looks an awful lot like the Obsidian case, doesn't it.

So far I have identified 3 PLA "characteristics" that seem useful.

Dead Soft: 3DS, Inland, etc... wet, gooey, bloppy, and little memory
Treated: PrintRBot... Cleaner start/stop performance, better memory (stiffer), smoother vertical surfaces, feels "firmer"
Crisp: Hatchbox, eSun, etc... Brittle, poor adhesion to previous layer, does not hold tension, crackles when squeezed.

Another characteristic is the vividness of the color. In this case, 3DS wins hands down from what I have used so far.
Inland is a bit watery and so is PrintRBot (except black).
The problem is that many of these places will use a common pellet color and they limit the amount of color pellets.
To me, this is an important element as this is what brings out the details of the print.

Other than needing glue on the build plate, I do like the PrintRBot stuff. If makes good "technical" prints.
Their translucent stuff is as good as their solid stuff.
PrintRBot colors are not as vivid as desired except for Black, from what I know so far. Their black is very opaque.

- - - - - - - - - -

Someone on Thingiverse requested a full set of prints from the right side extruder...

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0By-9ThR4U7Gkd0VDREJ6cjRkRnc

Enjoy!

bolsoncerrado
08-07-2017, 07:16 PM
Are you posting left and right LITE versions too? :D

TommyDee
08-07-2017, 08:31 PM
We haven't even started the beta test yet :)

There are some "requirements"...

bolsoncerrado
08-08-2017, 07:30 AM
Shoot'em!

TommyDee
08-08-2017, 02:40 PM
Show me a driver with a fitting tapped into it.

That is the only requirement. You need to be able to tap the driver with an M5 tap.
Requires a 4.2mm drill bit (.166").

This will cover you for both the driver and the hot-end.

These become paired forever. If you mess it up it is still usable for other solutions.
But with the tools, this is one of the easiest mods to do.

Or you have to send it to me w/ prepaid return mail and I'll do it for you.

bolsoncerrado
08-08-2017, 06:58 PM
So whats next once tapped?

TommyDee
08-08-2017, 07:54 PM
You get the lite version files :)

MegaloDon
08-08-2017, 09:12 PM
What prevents the lite version from twisting?

TommyDee
08-08-2017, 10:05 PM
Magic :)

bolsoncerrado
08-09-2017, 07:54 AM
Huh?

TommyDee
08-09-2017, 12:50 PM
Sometimes gremlins help to make things happened. In this case, didn't happen.

Fuganater
10-02-2017, 08:42 PM
Printing this now. We shall see how it turns out :)

TommyDee
10-20-2017, 02:30 AM
Remote the stock 3DS spool with a hook accessory.
No more screws!

2363

bolsoncerrado
10-20-2017, 08:15 AM
Woah! Awesome d00d! :D Thanks for sharing!!

nykr95
10-25-2017, 02:27 AM
Hi,

I haven't seen a lot of discussion on the process of how you change the generic filament. So when you want to change filament how do you remove and then load the new filament.

Thanks,

Steve

TommyDee
10-25-2017, 02:57 AM
Steve, I am SOOO happy you asked.

If everything is in place; one of the hubs, a modified or printed hot-end, and fittings on both ends:

Changing filament in the middle of a print:
* Press "Pause" on the printer's screen on in the Cubify app.
* Pull the Teflon tube from the hot-end fitting. The warm filament should pop right out of the hot-end without issue. Don't let if fall into the fan.
* Pull the hub from the printer. The printer doesn't care if you disconnect the chip.
* Remove the current filament and reload with the new filament.
* Run the new filament to the end of the Bowden tube. The tube should still be connected to the hub side and not the hot-end side. There are good reasons for this, least of which is to prevent damaging the little barbs in the fitting.
* Plug the tube back into the hot-end fitting.
* Continue spooling filament into the hot-end from the hub's driver. This makes sure there is no empty segment in the system.
* Replace the hub.
* Press "Resume" on the printer's screen. If you have no barrel nut in the hot-end, this should purge out the remaining old color during the Hershey operation. If I do this from a cold printer, there seems to be a little less purging for new prints compared to resumed prints. A cold printer needs about 10 inches of printing to change colors completely. A quick pause and resume of the subsequent print should also purge the old color completely.

Barrel nuts in the hot-end will cause filament to stretch and string when you pull the tube in this manner. This is not a problem! Just a little more work to get it fully purged. In every instance, you want to pull that tube with the hot-end at full temperature (just paused). The purge function does not seem to heat the filament enough to make this foolproof. Is a print function to make sure the heat is sufficient.

If the printer is cold, just print the test print for a left side swap and any other print to do a right side swap. Then follow the instructions from above.

A couple of related notes:
* If you accomplished a hot-end without the barrel nut, this works best when you pull the filament from the hot-end. This minimizes stringing or extruding while pulling the tube.
* If the tube is too damaged to pull from the hot-end, you can also pull the hub and feed filament while extracting the hub end of the tube from the fitting. Then you can clip the filament and wrangle the hot-end side of the tube.
* DO NOT LEAVE A CHIP IN AN UNUSED SIDE OF THE PRINTER WHERE THE HOT-END IS NOT INSTALLED! This causes temperature errors every time.
* When you do the swap, you have to use the same chip to "Resume".

What did I miss?

nykr95
10-25-2017, 05:20 AM
Boy - that seems a bit complicated. It's got be better than all the filament breaks I get now.

I modified the firmware - still have to print the parts and install. Think I will use the modified original nozzle.

Speaking of nozzles - has anyone run any metallic filament through the nozzle. Do you think it will destroy it? Not sure what its made of?

MegaloDon
10-25-2017, 06:41 AM
Speaking of nozzles - has anyone run any metallic filament through the nozzle. Do you think it will destroy it? Not sure what its made of?

The nozzle is made of aluminum and will wear over time with metalic or glow in the dark filament. I'm not sure what is in the glow in the dark filament, but I read that it will wear your nozzles as bad as metalic. I've also had problems with the glow in the dark having a bumpy texture and jamming up in the bowden tube.

- - - - - - - - - -

Also, if you are not doing a hot swap in the middle of a print, but just want to load filament without removing the hub, I made print files to load the filament for you here:
http://www.print3dforum.com/showthread.php/1014-Cube-3-Extruder-Hub-V2-FTF-(Free-The-Filament)?p=41754&viewfull=1#post41754

TommyDee
10-25-2017, 07:03 AM
Boy - that seems a bit complicated. It's got be better than all the filament breaks I get now.

I modified the firmware - still have to print the parts and install. Think I will use the modified original nozzle.

Speaking of nozzles - has anyone run any metallic filament through the nozzle. Do you think it will destroy it? Not sure what its made of?

I put a lot of details in with the process. Once you do it, it begins to make sense.

Heat the filament
Pull the tube
Reload new filament
Print

I still spool filament into the tube using a little hand driver. However, a power screwdriver would be a nice upgrade.

If you want a fun project, load the Bowden tube up with short lengths of different color filament and print away.
This system really is very forgiving, unlike stock cartridges, which are hit and miss with an average of only 50% having any hope of being made functional.


And yes, metallic, ceramic, and carbon fiber particles can erode the nozzle tips.
However, they are very well designed and should take quite a bit of punishment.

nykr95
10-25-2017, 07:17 AM
No - I do appreciate the detail - thanks. Have you seen anyone try to replace the actual metal portion of the nozzle with anything?
I would like to do some metallic prints - but not if I can't replace those nozzles.

I will let you know how the extruder replacement goes.

bolsoncerrado
10-25-2017, 08:29 AM
The nozzles themselves, the metalic parts, are the only part we still need from the original carts :/

Someone mentioned a mount to replace the whole exrtuder head with an e3Dv6 but havent seen it activelly working so far :?

garufa
12-07-2017, 02:53 AM
2432Thank You!!!! it is now perfect!

TommyDee
12-07-2017, 03:59 AM
Excellent work there!

Interesting filament. Something like a marble texture? Who's filament is that and do they have other options?

bolsoncerrado
12-07-2017, 11:22 AM
Perhaps it's dust? :D

garufa
12-08-2017, 03:34 AM
The Filament is as you noticed, Marble-like by AMOLEN. special offer of two rolls and included Silk & Bronze filament samples - bought on Amazon. Ordered because of the spool size and looks to replace the stock spools

TommyDee
12-08-2017, 04:04 AM
Nice stuff. Let us know if the premium price-tag is deserved... here (http://www.print3dforum.com/showthread.php/914-Filament-Review)

tprothma
01-23-2018, 08:44 PM
Hi TommyDee,
This is a really, really good design. I have one suggestion to help some of us avoid pushing smaller tube into a larger tube. This remedies the cost of the native 4mm to 3mm Festo adapter (QSM-4-3 153326). Was trying to PM you the idea, but PM doesn't allow attachments (only links). BTW, there are a few competing designs and most could benefit equally from a similar concept. Just an idea I thought I'd throw out.
Thanks,
Tim

2468

TommyDee
01-23-2018, 09:19 PM
Hello Tim and thank you for the suggestion. Early on I tried using 3mm tubing and adapter and quickly learned that the grip area was too small to be reliable with true Teflon tubing. Teflon tube is not "qualified" for use in push-to-connect fittings, but it works with 4mm tubing with mixed results for longevity. I had my 3mm fitting just scrape off Teflon while printing and pushing the tube right out there.

I tried some different tubes that were other versions of Teflon, like TFE, and found that the material had too much stiction, meaning it wasn't as slick to the filament going through it. This made the filament motors work harder.

Also note that the stock tubing actually measure 2.8mm rather than 3mm. That would be 7/64" which is a strange size. The saving grace is the feed-tube in the cartridge itself. Early development used a printed splice with the barrel-nuts that worked quite well... save the headache of using the barrel nuts.

My go-to solution today is a short length of stock tubing inside the nozzle housing which has minimal clearance (enough to maintain actuation of the spring). The 4mm fitting feeds the filament directly. If things are properly lined up, and the gaps are managed, you can actually feed the filament into this 2.8mm diameter length of tubing when you plug the 4mm tube into the fitting.

I do like the idea of having a mid-ship fitting that could split the feed tubes, but you have to know you can pull the old filament through the nozzle's fittings without binding. Removing the tube with the hot-end fully hot is the key to making simple filament changes. This is the reason I don't like the barrel nut in the nozzle housing. This is the first restriction that the "bulb" in the nozzle clears everything, removing the most old filament possible. checking the ID of the hole at the threaded end of the fitting is part of this. And this is a balance... you need a 2mm hole but aligned well enough with the tube in the hot end to make sure you do not deform the 2.8mm tube when feeding in the new filament.4

Overall, I think we are nearly there for trouble free filament changes. The only real issue I still deal with is the wear of the 4mm tubes from plugging in and unplugging the tube. The worst thing that happens, and it happens more often than not, is that the tube is rasped by the fitting grippers causing it to hold no matter what, and that forcefully removing the tube will break the little gripper part inside the fitting.

People do realize that rotating the tube inside the push-to-connect fitting will cause this issue of not releasing the tube reliable, right?

For the latest hub solutions, a 19" tube can be trimmed from time to time until it reaches 17". Then, if you need to, you can splice the tube with a 4mm-to-4mm fitting... of even a printed splice to put 2 4mm fittings into.

Some more expensive fittings are better about their release... they may have stronger metal grippers... and the release sleeve is longer for more positive release... and most have a lot more free-play than the common Chinese versions. And they are a whole lot more expensive in most cases. Free-play being how much the tube moves in and out between pressure and retract. I have evaluated many common high quality fittings, and even $5 fittings are prone to failure using Teflon (again, as Teflon is not supported by OEMs in PTC fittings).

I know there is a lot of words here. This is pretty much the culmination of what I have learned to date. If you would like an expanded explanation of any of these thoughts, please feel free to request elaboration on specifics.

tprothma
01-24-2018, 12:55 AM
I tried some different tubes that were other versions of Teflon, like TFE, and found that the material had too much stiction, meaning it wasn't as slick to the filament going through it. This made the filament motors work harder.

Also note that the stock tubing actually measure 2.8mm rather than 3mm. That would be 7/64" which is a strange size. The saving grace is the feed-tube in the cartridge itself. Early development used a printed splice with the barrel-nuts that worked quite well... save the headache of using the barrel nuts.

My go-to solution today is a short length of stock tubing inside the nozzle housing which has minimal clearance (enough to maintain actuation of the spring). The 4mm fitting feeds the filament directly. If things are properly lined up, and the gaps are managed, you can actually feed the filament into this 2.8mm diameter length of tubing when you plug the 4mm tube into the fitting.


I was thinking of this at the extruder side, because you must use 3mm OD tubing with the threaded barrel to hold it in place.



Overall, I think we are nearly there for trouble free filament changes. The only real issue I still deal with is the wear of the 4mm tubes from plugging in and unplugging the tube. The worst thing that happens, and it happens more often than not, is that the tube is rasped by the fitting grippers causing it to hold no matter what, and that forcefully removing the tube will break the little gripper part inside the fitting.


Is the unplugging of the tube needed if everything is working as expected. I did not realize that there was a need for a lot of disconnecting and reconnecting?

Please take my comments as just clarification and thinking through the steps needed. Frankly I haven't done the conversion (tubing and fittings are on their way). I was thinking that there may be an option that people haven't explored yet to make the conversion a little easier. You and others have basically resolved the fatal flaws of this printer, and I am a beneficiary of that work.... I'm just tweaking. I'll let you know if I catch a snag during the conversion.

Thanks,
Tim

TommyDee
01-24-2018, 02:22 AM
I love the fact that people provide the input to fine tune the current successes of this group.
For that I certainly thank you for keeping the process alive.

Your first question, considering the extruder side is correct if you pull the 3mm (2.8mm) tubing through the top of the stock nozzle (extruder) housing. There is no other way to hold the tube completely inside the small metal tube inside the nozzle housing. I have tried over and over again to actually make a barrel nut fit on true 3mm tubing. It simply crimps the tube too small inside to not jam the filament at some point and making removal difficult or incomplete (long stringy remainder). You will also find that true 3mm tubing doesn't fit well inside the metal tube in the nozzle itself. But again, with a length of the stock tubing found inside the cartridge, you can splice that easily if you have some spare parts. The trick is to not damage the tubing while threading the barrel nut in place. A length of coat-hanger wire in the tube will help to "stuff" the tube so it doesn't twist or collapse. A small cordless drill will help install the nut with a consistent slow speed. Be sure it has enough depth in the chuck.

Question two involves the process for changing filament. This is an area we still seem to have some level of disagreement on, or maybe just some confusion. Once you get rolling, I would love to see others' options on how to best achieve this including the pro's and con's.

I have a method that has become nearly foolproof. I know I need to video this process to make it perfectly clear but I simple haven't had the time in the last quarter to get there.

But I will outline my process quickly and the achievable goals by doing so. Please know that I could easily be overlooking required comments for this process. This also requires me to clarify why I use the hardware I use to achieve this.

My hardware does not use barrel nuts!
My hardware is using only a short length of stock tubing inside either a printed nozzle housing or a modified stock nozzle housing. This depends on your level of capability to modify parts. However, I have had great luck with both. Right now, the housing that Bo sells is probably the most robust if you have limitations to modify the stock plastics. This reply is associated with this in mind. Barrel nuts in the nozzle housing will not apply to this discussion as they rarely allows you to remove nearly all the filament in the melt area due to the slightly reduce inside diameter at the barrel nut.

On the filament driver side, a fixed tube would work just as well as a push-to-connect fitting. Having a quick connect here only helps in that you have a second place to pull the tube from. I suspect a simple barb fitting is quite sufficient on the driver side. Also know that the barb fitting will be stretching the Teflon tube significantly and I have not tested this yet.

Process for removing and replacing the filament; I know I've posted this elsewhere but lets see how consistent this off the cuff reply compares;

1) start a test print. (purge does not get the filament hot enough... my observations)
2) cancel the test print when it is done purging prior to laying down filament. This is known as the Hershey process.
3) pull the hot-end tube immediately after cancelling the test print! You will get most of the filament out of the nozzle this way.
4) snip the little bulb of semi-melt from the exposed end of the filament.
5) remove the hub and back-drive the filament out. It is your choice to keep it or just snip this part that was already "tractor'd" through the system. I re-use it if storage isn't an issue. It does drive easier if you re-align the score marks when you reload the filament.
6) drive in the new filament until it gets to the end of the tube. Be careful again to not allow the tube to twist in the process. No rasping allowed if you want to ever remove the tube from the cold end again.
7a) choice: either plug in the tube in the hot-end fitting and drive the filament all the way into the nozzle... (your hot-end needs great alignment for this)
7b) or protrude the filament ~3/4" (18-20mm) enough for you to start the filament into the small tubing inside the nozzle housing. This is the safer method as long as you know you got the melt out completely. There is about 40mm of tubing inside the nozzle and all this is doing is getting it started before finally seating the tube in the fitting.
8) drive the filament all the way into the nozzle tip from the hub until it stops.
9) replace the hub and organize your filament spool with whatever system you are using.

That's it. You can now either purge out the old color, or better yet, start your print; let the system make the Hershey pile in the waste tray and immediately "Pause" the print. When you "Resume" the print, it will do another Hershey operation and by then, your new color should be pure. Repeat if needed (rarely do I have to). If what I wrote here is your experience in color purging, you've duplicated my experience with filament changes. Note that I never removed the nozzle housing; I do a lot of work with the hub in hand which is what others have tried to eliminate. I can only recommend the Black&Decker drill-driver to ease the 1/2 meter filament feed by hand. A number 2 square tipped hex bit fits the filament driver perfectly.

With all honesty, I don't know how else to do this. If we could simply splice the next filament onto a tail of the current filament, nothing would need to come apart, no hub would be pulled, no drill driving would be required, no .cube3 file loader would be needed, and eventually the new color would show up. RARELY would I want to wait for a 1/2 meter of different color to be used up in a print before I see the color I switched to.

The whole idea behind a filament change for me is to have a print where I can change colors at any time! The Hershey operation before resuming is longer than the initial one. If everything is working for you as mine does, you can "Pause" the print exactly where you want the color change; swap the filament; and "Resume" with the new color starting immediately on your print. Another fun trick is to load short lengths of different colors of filament in the Bowden tube and let them play out. If the unit is working properly, and the filaments don't hang up at the tube fitting, you can get an interesting print. And if you can do this, your feed system is pretty much optimized for anything.

Don't let 9-step reading of the process put you off. This is a very natural process that once you do it, you'll only forget a step or two once or twice. Something like replacing your hub before you finish driving in that last 20mm or something silly like that where you would again remove the hub. Again, you see just how critical that tube alignment within the nozzle housing is for this to work smoothly. I now check every fitting to make sure the hole is 2mm clear; no chamfer on the threaded end if the tube is directly against it. A generous lead-in from the tube side would help. A 3+mm 135+ degree drill bit as apposed to a standard 118 degree bit would go a long way to provide that lead-in chamfer for successful feeding.

I'm still playing with some of my own printed nozzle housing designs but my go-to is still the modified stock nozzle housings. One thing I want to achieve is that the nozzle housing can be removed from the printer without turning the fitting itself. Almost there! Todd knows what I am up to in this regard and I've posted some hints as to how I am working this elsewhere. Again, I just need time to finish this so I can share it. No priority at the moment.

tprothma
01-24-2018, 05:36 AM
I appreciate the detailed response. I've not had to go through a filament repair yet.

This guy is using 2mm shrink wrap.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eJeU9lXiQPE


Tim

MegaloDon
01-24-2018, 06:33 AM
This is how I change filament:
http://www.print3dforum.com/showthread.php/1014-Cube-3-Extruder-Hub-V2-FTF-(Free-The-Filament)?p=42955&viewfull=1#post42955

Then I use the "Load Filament files" found here:
http://www.print3dforum.com/showthread.php/1014-Cube-3-Extruder-Hub-V2-FTF-(Free-The-Filament)?p=41754&viewfull=1#post41754

I never remove the hub or the hot end. Only the tube from the hot end quick connect. I have not had an issue yet and I let the printer do most of the work. Keep in mind that the Load Filament files are designed to work with a 500 mm tube, but you can edit the included .bfb files to work with whatever length you have.

It's just a matter of preference on how you do it.

I also don't have any issues with alignment. It is handled internally by the printed parts of my hub and print head.

tprothma
01-24-2018, 08:04 AM
Very nice, I see what you're doing MegaloDon.

TommyDee, I realize now that the mod has the 3mm OD tub fit into the threaded section of the 4mm OD fitting, so the fitting itself is doing the alignment of the 2 tubing sizes.

As far as never had to change a filament, I spoke too soon. Neon Green out of the box was very brittle, especially the first section that had been stored in the skeleton tube and bent during storage. It actually poked a hole in the side of the skeleton tube and there were at least 3 breaks.

Waiting on parts from Amazon tomorrow to do the mod. I'll disect the Neon green cartridge.

Is there a preferred way to take the chip off of the cartridge. I'd think it would be easier with a little heating and a plastic pry thingy.

Tim

MegaloDon
01-24-2018, 08:32 AM
Is there a preferred way to take the chip off of the cartridge. I'd think it would be easier with a little heating and a plastic pry thingy.

I used an X-acto knife and pried very slowly. If you do this, use an old blade as it will most likely break the tip. I'm sure there is a better way, but I wasn't worried about breaking an old dull tip. I've tried sharpening them and it works ok, but it's never as good as a new blade.

The reason I used an X-acto knife is because there is almost no gap around the chip.

The glue they use is a kind of gummy glue and it wants to drop back down. You need to get one side up and then pull it the rest of the way out. As you said, a little heat would probably help, but overall it's not that difficult.

TommyDee
01-24-2018, 08:45 AM
Very nice, I see what you're doing MegaloDon.

TommyDee, I realize now that the mod has the 3mm OD tub fit into the threaded section of the 4mm OD fitting, so the fitting itself is doing the alignment of the 2 tubing sizes.

As far as never had to change a filament, I spoke too soon. Neon Green out of the box was very brittle, especially the first section that had been stored in the skeleton tube and bent during storage. It actually poked a hole in the side of the skeleton tube and there were at least 3 breaks.

Waiting on parts from Amazon tomorrow to do the mod. I'll disect the Neon green cartridge.

Is there a preferred way to take the chip off of the cartridge. I'd think it would be easier with a little heating and a plastic pry thingy.

Tim

I would use the term "up to" the threaded end of the fitting. Note that the fittings I use only have a 2mm ID hole through the fitting.

You will find that the green will print just fine once removed from the Cube Bowden tube solution and both barrel nuts removed.

tprothma
01-26-2018, 02:20 AM
Ok, I'm printing again now. Neon green was refed after cleaning up the nozzle and is feeding fine with stock feed. Printing new DIY extruder hub. All of the parts have arrived from Amazon including a Nano Arduino. For those of you that know what that's for.

As far as the fittings go, I need to verify later that the 2mm fits on the threaded side, but it looks like the 4mm M5 fittings are holding on to the 4mm OD tubing nicely.

I haven't upgraded FW yet (shipped with 1.11b) and noticed that it failed printing with only 1 print head in the hot end. It also seemed like it the feedback was switched because it failed with a T12 and said the temperature was 20C, but I took the nozzle out of the hot end and it was hot. It looks like it wants both print heads in the hot end. I'll double check after FW upgrade, but someone may have gotten these switched at least in 1.11b FW and I'm not sure if they use more than 1 thermistor and if the temperature control is for both sides or individual.

Tim

TommyDee
01-26-2018, 03:04 AM
The Nano is for resetting the cartridge rather that the modified F/W.
It can reset cartridges to whatever level you want... with an optional upgrade to write anything you want to the cartridge.

You will get a temperature error any time you have 2 chips installed but only one nozzle.
There are two heaters and two thermistors.

Half of the stock cartridges have damaged Bowden tubes right out of the factory. I use to think they were all recoverable but it turns out that the nylon "skeleton" over-mold on the Teflon tubing deforms the Teflon tubing limiting the inside diameter. As you drive the filament back and forth constantly through the driver with certain prints, it flattens the filament exceeding the 1.75mm width sufficiently to bind the filament in the tube. It has nothing to do with clogging at the nozzle. This also works the drive motor very hard and it gets quite warm. Diamond fill seems to be very bad about this. The upgraded Bowden systems we've all been developing takes this into account and corrects for it. With the clear 2mm ID throughout the tube without restrictions seems to solve this issue.
I suspect that the barrel nuts do this also.

Also note that a lot of stock cartridge nozzles do not bottom out sufficiently on the heater blocks. This too could cause temperature "glitches" triggering alarms.
But we do know that a cold environment also causes temperature errors. I keep the printer room at 20*C (70*F) minimum.

tprothma
01-26-2018, 05:03 AM
The Nano is for resetting the cartridge rather that the modified F/W.
It can reset cartridges to whatever level you want... with an optional upgrade to write anything you want to the cartridge.
Exactly



You will get a temperature error any time you have 2 chips installed but only one nozzle.
There are two heaters and two thermistors.

Cool, did not know that. But I only had 1 chip installed, I'll update FW and see if it can print with 1 cartridge and 1 print head installed or if it was a 1.11b issue. The T12 error was scary.



Half of the stock cartridges have damaged Bowden tubes right out of the factory. I use to think they were all recoverable but it turns out that the nylon "skeleton" over-mold on the Teflon tubing deforms the Teflon tubing limiting the inside diameter. As you drive the filament back and forth constantly through the driver with certain prints, it flattens the filament exceeding the 1.75mm width sufficiently to bind the filament in the tube. It has nothing to do with clogging at the nozzle. This also works the drive motor very hard and it gets quite warm. Diamond fill seems to be very bad about this. The upgraded Bowden systems we've all been developing takes this into account and corrects for it. With the clear 2mm ID throughout the tube without restrictions seems to solve this issue.
I suspect that the barrel nuts do this also.

The beginning of the stock green PLA for some reason was very brittle. After simply clearing (and I may have over cleaned as you imply) I am now having no issues and before it broke in several places in the skeleton. So as I'm sure there is a design flaw in the feeder, I also know that the first few feet of stock neon green were more brittle. As I got a few feet into the roll even bending it in my fingers did not cause it to snap. Also it punctured a hole in the side of the skeleton (in other words was broke before it got to that bend and then poked a hole). Anyway, same roll, before mods and now printing fine, but I'll be doing the mods soon enough.



Also note that a lot of stock cartridge nozzles do not bottom out sufficiently on the heater blocks. This too could cause temperature "glitches" triggering alarms.
But we do know that a cold environment also causes temperature errors. I keep the printer room at 20*C (70*F) minimum.

Yes, I know what you mean... I have a propane heater where I have the printer and I live in sunny California

MegaloDon
01-26-2018, 07:19 AM
I have a propane heater where I have the printer and I live in sunny California

It's important to note that propane heaters give off moisture while they heat. Electric heaters on the other hand give off a dry heat and are perfect for 3D printers. The dryer the better. I had propane heat and had a lot of problems with moisture in my filament. Now I have electric heat and have no problems. In the summer it's a different story. It gets humid here in the summer and air conditioning doesn't dry the air enough. I have a lot of moisture problems with filament in the summer.

tprothma
01-26-2018, 08:23 AM
Thanks for the info MegaloDon. Today it's raining in sunny California so RH is very high. So far my prints look good though.
Thanks again.
Tim

Harry
03-04-2018, 01:56 AM
Just found this forum a few weeks ago and now I am pretty busy modifying my Cube3. ;)
Big thanks to all who build these mods and share them!
There is one thing for which I could not find an answer yet: What is the best way to remove the chip from the original cartridge?
It seems to stick pretty good and I don't want to risk breaking it...

Harry

TommyDee
03-04-2018, 03:06 AM
Hey Harry. Welcome to the forum.

The chip is held in place on some gooey foam tape.
If there is an edge with a greater gap, use that as your pry-edge.
You can start tipping the chip by pushing on the opposite edge.
Use an Exacto blade to reach under the raised edge of the chip.
Pry gently with a longer edge of the blade rather than the tip.
You probably have to hold the chip "tipped" and get a new grip with the blade.
This time you will be able to get under it and slowly peel it out.
You're working with the edge of the chip for most of this process.
You can see how you're doing from the inside of the cartridge case.

Harry
03-04-2018, 03:52 AM
Thanks TommyDee! I'll give it a try.

Harry

tprothma
03-04-2018, 07:39 AM
Hi Harry, this first one is the hardest. I snap an edge off of a razor blade making sure the edge is slightly shorter than the width of the chip. Then you want to make sure you' push the blade as deep as possible between the plastic/chip. You want the blade applying pressure as far below the surface as you can get (not near the top where the circuitry is). I use a heat gun and make sure I don't warp the plastic. It comes off easy, but first one is daunting.
Tim

Harry
03-04-2018, 04:40 PM
Thanks Tim. I did exactly that and it came off without problems.
I am just printing the rest of the hub and hope I have it running in a few days!

Harry

Rlnn
05-24-2018, 11:35 AM
Hi tommy, when using abs still curling with stock sidewalk, pla still no stong as abs, can u help me give me setting for 1.5cm and 0.2mm thickness brim? Cause there no stl. Thanks

TommyDee
05-24-2018, 06:00 PM
Welcome to the forum, Rlnn.

Please confirm which part/file, which side - left or right, and I can run an ABS with sidewalks for you.