View Full Version : Cube3 Manual Winder Tool ANYONE?

08-16-2017, 07:44 PM
OK somehow I lost the VERY ONLY screwdriver that fitted PERFECTLY inside the drive gear of the cartidge hubs so I can initially wind some filament from the spool up to the nozzle for the very first print...

Has anyone came up to a printable tool to do this? ;)


11-08-2017, 03:40 PM
No1? :D

11-08-2017, 07:13 PM
Square drive #S2 1/4" driver in a printed handle...

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Again, a small low power cordless electric screwdriver would be nice.

11-08-2017, 10:17 PM
or a "push button" nema motor for the matter lol

11-08-2017, 11:14 PM
Alright, you convinced me to just order one...
Real easy to do a Li-Ion conversion.

11-09-2017, 07:38 AM
BWahahaha! Cant wait to see the vid! :D

11-09-2017, 08:20 AM
...and why would I video this function?
It is just to run the filament for 20".
The last 1" into the nozzle will be manual as always.
The Li-Ion cell is an AA equivalent size at 14500 which I have a lot of.
Assuming 4S1P is 6V vs. 7.4V (8.4V at peak) 2S1P.
2S2P is 3V so Li-Ion can be 2P1S or 4P1S.
Tabs are normally easily modified to suit.
No problem for DC motors on short duty cycles.
They just run a little faster.
I don't have time to waste on NiMH!
I've converted almost all my AA Alkaline devices to 1 Li-Ion and a dummy using a diode.
The voltage drop across a power diode is enough to keep the electronics safe with a fully charge Li-Ion.
I use a Iforgethowmanywattzener diode, not for the zerer function, but because they have the least v-drop @ ~0.5V.
So a 3V device will see 3.9V at full charge dropping to about 3.2V at nominal charge.
No more alkaline sag either.
Just be careful about the total current you will be drawing because you need to factor that into the diode's rating.
Saved 100's of $/USD every year for several years now.
Just buy quality Li-Ion cells and chargers; XTAR chargers, Panasonic, Sanyo; and now LG is up and coming.
I also use only protected Li-Ion cells so they never over-discharge from user error (...called laziness).

11-09-2017, 11:32 AM
I just ordered one, damnit! LOL

12-02-2017, 10:45 PM
Finally!!! Finally got my cordless screwdriver. Works nice.

Tried the initial setup for replacing Alkaline with Li-Ion and that failed for several reasons.
One being that there is very little size tolerance in the battery carrier.
This leaves out a lot of 14500 Li-Ion cells since they are either protected, oversized, or flat-topped.

I made a quick mod using 10440 Li-Ion cells. Printed an adapter case, and added a short extension piece of copper to make it fit right.
A jumper on the backside and it works with 8.4V. The extra RPM is quite welcome.

Bottom line, only size compliant button top Li-Ion cells will work.
Yet, I rarely recommend unprotected cells.
So you're all on your own on this one.

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Okay, so these unprotected 14500 cells work without issues.

Still need a jumper of sorts to connect the returns.
If nothing else, you can put dummy cells in there (solid metal bar).

This mod kicks up the RPM by about 20% too.

12-03-2017, 06:56 PM
Interesting thing on the RPM.... I always thought rechargable cells weak point was the power they deliver steady...

12-03-2017, 08:52 PM
Not with regard to Li-Ion. There are a lot of IMR cells that are specifically designed to maximize discharge current.
These particular cells can tolerate a 6.5 amp draw. Think of the current required for vaping tools... massive!

Early Li-Ion was limited in output current. There are still a lot of Li-Ion not rated for high current, but IMR cells are more robust.
They just have a lower capacity per volume. But 600mah in a single high current cell is not bad at all.
I've also seen 700mah IMR cells on eBay from a reliable supplier. Just haven't tried it yet in this application.
Efest is a big name in the vaping community. Also know there are a ton of imposters in this market! These are what is killing the li-ion industry WRT travel.
I have literally found an AAA sized li-ion cell inside a 18650 sized li-ion cell with packed sand to make it feel real.

Bottom line, the very top end of Alkaline cells will deliver 6V which reduces immediately. You might get about 2200mah out of a set of 4 AA cells in series.
If you rewire the cell holder, you could go 2P2S li-ion for the rechargeable output with greater speed.
Fully charged Li-Ion delivers 4.2V so I am running this 6V device at 8.4 volts until it settles at around 3.7V x2 or 7.4V during the core cycle time of the cell.
At the end of the charge, they discharge quickly to 3 volts each (x2) which is the best you can get out of alkaline cells when new.
Bottom line, the li-ion mod lets the motor run about 20% faster.

Problem is this; li-ion that drops below 2.5V will grow dendrites internally, making the cell susceptible to eventual shorts and fire risks.
Protected cells will not drop below 2.75v because a device cuts off the discharge circuit at this point.
Due to the high output of IMR cells, they are often not protected. So you have to keep an eye on them.
And that is why I cannot recommend unprotected li-ion cells in general.
In this case, it is a requirement if you want them to fit in the B&D cordless screwdriver.

This is a good discharge graph regarding these cells... and typical for all Li-ion cells discharge curves.

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Oh, and as far as chargers go for li-ion... I only trust Xtar chargers.
Some nice offers at Mtn Electronics for these as well.

For USA buyers, I do recommend Mtn Electronics.
They are avid and active members of the flashlight forums.
And their pricing is unmatched.
Their commitment to obtaining only genuine products is their biggest plus.

Otherwise, I have no reason or interest to endorse this supplier or Xtar.
I just believe in them.