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daf
12-12-2014, 11:02 AM
windows/macOS Cura settings .....


http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z167/daf33/03.png

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z167/daf33/02.png


http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z167/daf33/04.png

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z167/daf33/05.png
http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z167/daf33/06.png
http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z167/daf33/07.png

jase3d
12-12-2014, 11:05 AM
THANKS for that!

Mark
12-20-2014, 06:01 AM
Thanks for the Cura settings. How to I get the print to do to the printer (and not the SD card)?

Mark
12-20-2014, 06:56 AM
I got my Rapide Lite 200 talking to my Windows 7 PC. I had to download and install a driver:

RRD_RUMBA_TAURINO_DriverSetup.zip

from http://reprap.org/wiki/RUMBA

Then Cura was able to send the job to the printer. I still have alignment issues, but this is real progress!

bolsoncerrado
12-20-2014, 10:35 AM
Anyone with Cura on MacOSX?

How do we access the SD card on the printer??

Cheers.

Mark
12-20-2014, 12:47 PM
I suggest you work through using the USB interface as there does not seem to currently be a way to access the gcode files on the SD Card that I can see.

bolsoncerrado
12-20-2014, 02:56 PM
Not sure what you mean by accessing using the USB interface? I plug the printer on the comptuer thru USB, obviously, and Cura has a SDCard icon which is grayed out... Shouldnt it be communicating already?

Mark
12-20-2014, 05:44 PM
Not sure what you mean by accessing using the USB interface? I plug the printer on the comptuer thru USB, obviously, and Cura has a SDCard icon which is grayed out... Shouldnt it be communicating already?

I could not communicate (using Cura) with the printer until I downloaded and installed a device driver. Before that, I could only "print" to the SD Card from Cura.

bolsoncerrado
12-20-2014, 05:50 PM
On my Mac i installed Repetier Host and nothing else, and I was able to access everything including the SD hmmmm

Mark
12-20-2014, 06:41 PM
Windows 7 needed a device driver. Macs are different. Cheers

bolsoncerrado
12-20-2014, 07:04 PM
Thats how I'd issolate problems... Checking first if drivers are the actual issue to malfunctions...

Zoom
12-21-2014, 02:18 AM
Hi daf hope you don't mind Ive made a link for the Cura Settings as above in DROPBOX (https://www.dropbox.com/s/rkvr5p5hniv7htd/CuraRapideLiteSettings.zip?dl=0)

Cheers

Mark
12-21-2014, 04:20 AM
Anyone else out there getting their Rapide Lite 200 to print yet? Mine makes all of the motions but no filament is being drawn or comes out of the nozzle. I get head and bed temperatures reported back to Cura, so I assume that the nozzle has power since it heats up.

Zoom
12-21-2014, 06:14 AM
Hi Mark

Mabye Try these threads they might help you Iam still waiting for mine so I can not personally check it on my printer

Complications (http://www.print3dforum.com/showthread.php/16-Complications) — or — Extruder making clicking noise (http://www.print3dforum.com/showthread.php/40-Extruder-making-clicking-noise)

Cheers

Mark
12-21-2014, 06:16 AM
I received a nicely detailed email from Ethan (CEO at Rapide) with ideas on how to solve my nozzle feed issues. After I give them a try, I will report back. Hopefully what he gave me will be useful instructions for anyone else with similar behavior.

aleb
01-03-2015, 10:00 PM
Daf, how exactly did you obtain those settings? Thanks!

daf
01-04-2015, 01:02 AM
Aleb
All settings are from Ethan @ Rapide Lite

Mark

I agree you would gain from reading the bulk of the forum as most have had or are having the issues you are having .

Mark
01-04-2015, 06:38 AM
Mark

I agree you would gain from reading the bulk of the forum as most have had or are having the issues you are having .

I looked at other threads and did not see anything that helps with my port closing problem. If you can point to to a thread that talks about this, I'd really appreciate it.

I have done extruder adjustement work but am not able to test it (port problem again).

Thanks

daf
01-04-2015, 07:35 AM
Mark
have you read this thread ?
can't connect to the printer (http://www.print3dforum.com/showthread.php/17-can-t-connect-to-the-printer)

aleb
01-04-2015, 09:08 AM
I looked at other threads and did not see anything that helps with my port closing problem.

This thread is about the Cura settings, please start a new thread if you did not find anything.

@daf Please edit the top post and mention the source of the info. Thanks!

Mark
01-04-2015, 11:16 PM
Mark
have you read this thread ?
can't connect to the printer (http://www.print3dforum.com/showthread.php/17-can-t-connect-to-the-printer)



Yeah, I have read it and still get "Failed to establish connection with the printer". I have tried lots of port speeds (baud rates) including AUTO which tries some on its own. I also have verified that I have the latest RUMBA driver for Windows. I have also opened the bottom panel on the printer and nothing appears to be loose. The printer does show up immediately in the "Devices and Printer" panel under Windows when the 3D printer is powered on and disappears when it is turned off. So I know that communication/detection works at some level. Yet full communication (and table motion) no longer happens (as it did once before I tore into adjusting the extruder feed). Can anyone advise the other settings besides baud rate? Partity, Flow Control, etc.?

aleb
01-05-2015, 02:16 AM
Yeah, I have read it and still get "Failed to establish connection with the printer". I have tried lots of port speeds (baud rates) including AUTO which tries some on its own. I also have verified that I have the latest RUMBA driver for Windows. I have also opened the bottom panel on the printer and nothing appears to be loose. The printer does show up immediately in the "Devices and Printer" panel under Windows when the 3D printer is powered on and disappears when it is turned off. So I know that communication/detection works at some level. Yet full communication (and table motion) no longer happens (as it did once before I tore into adjusting the extruder feed). Can anyone advise the other settings besides baud rate? Partity, Flow Control, etc.?

You could try with a different computer, then you might know whether to blame the computer or the printer/cable.

Mark
01-05-2015, 03:37 AM
You could try with a different computer, then you might know whether to blame the computer or the printer/cable.

Already tried another computer (Windows 7 laptop) and another cable which I know works. So neither of them is the culprit.

Hoblin
01-05-2015, 07:23 PM
does any one know why my rapidelite 200 always starts the print in the left hand front corner . is there settings on how to get it to start the print in the middle of the heat bed . Please help a pure novice i have been trying for days to work it out.

Joao
01-05-2015, 08:16 PM
Hoblin,
That depends on the slicer software that you use.
All of the softwares that I've seen so far allow you to specify initial gcode instructions before starts printing.
For example: G1 X95 Y95 Z40
This will place the head at an average center and 4cm high, enough room to clean the head while heating up.
Still I prefer the head to be at the X0 Y0.

Another "beginner" suggestion is to start new forum thread with your question, so that the original subject does not get lost and you get a proper answer from other members ;)

Aeternia
03-31-2015, 09:36 AM
Hi!

I used the previously mentioned settings, but when I try to print it seems that not enough filament comes out of the nozzle, resulting to:
1. Needing to actually manually push it in order to make something solid,
2. Not sticking to the bed for the first layer (so if we don't push it, then it prints in the air, even if it is just 1mm above the bed)

Any suggestions?

milstream
03-31-2015, 09:23 PM
Aeternia,

When your printer is at Z home, it should be within a paper thickness away from the bed at any and all X,Y positions
See first post in this topic
http://www.print3dforum.com/showthread.php/39-HOW-TO-Set-up-the-Hardware

Aeternia
04-02-2015, 02:33 PM
Hey, thanks, I finally managed to calibrate the Z-Axis properly. However, when I got to print, my first print at a 0.5 shell object was fine. But when I tried to print something with a thicker shell I noticed that the filament was overflowing. Tried to reduce the amount of filament to 10%, but that didn't help either. What else should I tweak?

836