BQ Ciclop : Build your own DIY 3D Scanner for less than $500... Made in Spain!

[bolsoncerrado]

Introducing...

Ciclop
First DIY Open Source 3D Desktop Scanner


http://3dprint.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/ciclop-675x379.png




Spanish tech firm bq (http://www.bq.com/gb/) manufactures smartphones, tablets, e-readers, and 3D printers, but it’s their entry into the 3D scanner market that’s turning heads. The company’s new Ciclop 3D scanner (http://diwo.bq.com/en/presentacion-ciclop-horus/) uses laser triangulation technology and a rotating turntable, and it’s billed as “the first DIY 3D scanner.”

Ciclop will also run their software, Horus (http://diwo.bq.com/en/horus-released/), which has just been released via a free license.

The machine itself, once built, is quite a capable 3D scanner. Below you will find some of its specifications:


Scanner size: 450 x 330 x 230 mm Dim
Scanning area. 205 x 205 mm
Scanner Weight: ~ 2kg
Precision scanning: 0.5, 5 mm
Scanning speed: 3-4. Min approx
Steps per rotation: 1600, 160

Electronics:


Logitech C270 HD 1280 x 960 – Two Laser
Power Supply: 12V 1.5A micro USB Cable
Controller board: ZUM BT-328 Power Plate

Mechanics:


Bipolar stepper motor Nema (1.7A 1.8 deg/step)
Non-slip surface
Threaded Rods

Software:


Free Horus Software
Output files: ply, stl
Compatible with Linux: ubuntu, fedora Windows: 7 and 8



Build yours...
>> gitHub Ciclop Files (https://github.com/bq/ciclop)
>> gitHub Horus Files (https://github.com/bq/horus)
>> Bill of Materials (https://github.com/bq/ciclop/blob/master/Ciclop-BOM.pdf)

>> English Manual 1 (https://static-bqreaders.s3.amazonaws.com/file/ciclop/Horus_User_manual_EN.pdf)
>> English Manual 2 (https://static-bqreaders.s3.amazonaws.com/file/ciclop/Horus_Guide_for_Optimum_Scanning_EN.pdf)

>> Google Ciclop Group (https://groups.google.com/forum/?hl=en#!forum/ciclop-3d-scanner)
>> Ciclop Files at Thingiverse (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:740357)

>> Alternate camera base mount in 3 parts (attachable with printed bolts) (https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4Jp2ldIHERkcExVSWRtY0kxREp4Q0JnUTVSWkhUOThuS0dN/view?usp=sharing)
>> Alternate printable Pattern base (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:663642)
>> Alternate Laser Mount for 12mm diameter lasers (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:662050)
>> Alternate Laser Mount for 13mm diameter lasers (https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0ByCazvg8jxylfmdrUzdydjZCTE15WWgtYm9 MX1V3d2tDeTd4b3dJa2h1aWtUb0swTWZidGs&usp=sharing)


>> PiClop Project (Ciclop with a Raspberry Pi) (http://bill-owens.blogspot.com.es/2015/02/building-piclop.html) + thingiverse parts
(http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:678659)

Or buy it now:
>> Ciclop Official Website (http://www.bq.com/es/productos/ciclop.html)






THE ASSEMBLY:

A Video on the assembly instructions:




https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VYQuiM_4nls


https://static-bqreaders.s3.amazonaws.com/img/Ciclop/modulos%20img/01_Introduccion/01_introduccion_3000px.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/FwnlAeM.jpg



http://i.imgur.com/Kp59Ji4.jpg




http://diwo.bq.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/lasers-structure-470x313.jpg



http://static3.hwlibre.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Ciclop.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/Yhs2Qw4.jpg



THE RESULT:


http://3dprint.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/bg2.png

[JonatanJacobsson]

I have now printed 3 parts for this scanner in a red PLA. Part 1 of the Camera holder (had to cut it in two), The disc holder and the Motor holder.

I have not purchased the electronics or the rods needed this, i have made a Google Docs of the BOM that they have listed and checked off the things i have in green:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1kjN5UK5Ogx-iqanD4d8yC_G-zL3gF94RES5rmv5ydyY/edit?usp=sharing

[bolsoncerrado]

Amazing! SO this way we can locate every piece and start doing our own ;)

Let's see how much $$$ do we come up with this one ;)

[bolsoncerrado]

Hey man share the sheet so we can build it unified! :D

This is cheaper!
http://www.amazon.com/StepStick-DRV8825-Stepper-Driver-Printer/dp/B00S3Q9YZA/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1422995746&sr=8-11&keywords=StepStick+DRV8825

(OK US only! ;)



BTW i think you got the wrong motor, doublecheck the picture with the one you need...

[JonatanJacobsson]

Ive printed some more now :) All the big parts are now printed.
600

Yes i will have to find another motor. It needs to be 38mm in height aswell. I think that one was 42mm, wont fit inside the motor holder.

[bolsoncerrado]

I got these (http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Super-3-PCS-Nema-17Stepper-motor-42BYGHW609P1-40mm-1-7A-56oz-in-Single-Flat-Shaft-cnc/32224707376.html), model seems to match. if you want one, may be we can arrange it? idk

BTW it seems we wont be able to find the "ZSCAN shield" circuit yet :????

[ned73]

Ok, now this has got me interested!!!!!! Already looking up the parts on ebay etc. Is there a tutorial on how to flash the ZUM BT-328?

[bolsoncerrado]

Flash? I guess it comes preloaded, but we miss the "shield" to control the scan itself...until they release it, we're "sold".


btw has anyone found black nuts?

[ned73]

I think we can use the CNC shield V3 to mount on top of it to run the stepper driver (http://blog.protoneer.co.nz/arduino-cnc-shield/), having said that, the do give the schematics for the ZUMSCAN pcb with component list, and I happen to have my kickstarter "Zallus reflow oven controller" so when I find out how much the PCB will cost to have made and price the SMD components then I would hope to get moving on this (this wont happen for a while though LOL, unless of course they also release the zumscan in the mean time lol)...... for now I can print the parts, buy the webcam and the 2 lasers, the cost will be the ZUM electronics from what I can see.... the black nuts can be purchased from an industrial hardware supplier, here in Australia we have the metric men, and Allfastners and just down the road from where I work is First choice Industrial supply, they have every fastener in black, zinc, gal and stainless and they sell piece by piece or by the box or however much you need..... very convenient when certain screws in a certain printer werent quite up to scratch....lol.

- - - Updated - - -

Hmm.. and of course I try and buy the ZUM BT-328 board and it wont ship to Australia LOL..... go figure....

[ned73]

Ok, after checking the Open source files, looks like you can get away with just an arduino UNO, with the ZUMSCAN on top, and they have provided the firmware as part of the opensource with instructions on how to upload. The ZUMSCAN does not seem to require a reflow oven as you can manually solder the PCB components which element 14 have an abundance of, the master file has the gcode to cnc the PCB and it also has the gerber files to submit to your choice of PCB manufacturers..... so time to find a PCB maker and get a quote.... unless someone beast me to it....lol... it almost looks like you can run this from an ALAMODE (http://www.makershed.com/products/alamode-for-raspberry-pi) ontop of a Raspberry Pi with the ZUMSCAN shield ontop and have a full all in one setup, provided the Raspbian wheezy OS is Debian compatable???????

[ned73]

Well in my haste, I have just sent off the PCB files for a quote from an Australian PCB manufacturer..... lets see what the price will be.

[bolsoncerrado]

PCB for ... the shield?

[bolsoncerrado]

This is my current BOM...

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1UzGmaiSLdF-pmPBXfvgt7ZVOYyRX337GfThxX1sIuGI/edit?usp=sharing

[ned73]

Yep for the ZUMSCAN shield that sits ontop of the ZUM BT328 rev2 or any arduino uno from my understanding, I think the ZUM BT328 rev2 is a modified UNO with built in on board Bluetooth with some other custom fancy bits (like the alamode) otherwise a standard UNO will do and it just needs the ZUMSCAN shield to sit ontop, and since I am unable to purchase the ZUM BT328 rev2 as I am from Australia (they only ship to Europe at the moment), then making the shield and using a $10 Uno might be the way to go for me.

I wont start the build until I have a definite price on the shield quote (looks like min purchase is 5 pieces, but getting a quote for 10 and 20 also) and can get all the pcb components..... if someone can tell me what rating the polyfuses are on the ZUMSCAN that would help lol, they list the values for the other items but for some strange reason those polyfuses are MF-Rxx_S1_12.0.. just need to know what the xx bit is.... otherwise all the bits are cheap on element 14.....

[bolsoncerrado]

i can get you one if you want me to ship to you?

[bolsoncerrado]

ZUM Scan BOM and plaque mapping:



http://diwo.bq.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/zum-scan-lat-418x330.jpg



http://diwo.bq.com/en/zum-scan-released-2

[ned73]

Yep thats the board I just got the quote on, the pcb for 20 units will come to AUD$416.50 divide by 20 makes AUD$20.82, made in Australia though, probably be MUCH cheaper made in China, but would prefer to support a company that I can drive to within 20 minutes!!!! The PCB components are not included in that price though but seem to be rather cheap. Do we know if the board they are selling comes with this as well as it looks to me that they are two separate products.... I hope I am making sense.... Looks like I may have to ask a favour to have you buy the board and shield and ship it on out LOL

[ned73]

Ok, I have just purchased the two lasers from ebay:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/141362575260?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

And I have sliced all the components ready to print, now just waiting for some filament to turn up..... I think I may buck the trend and make mine green.... or grey..... or orange.... LOL....

I already have the stepper motor and driver as spares from my Shapeoko build, the bearing I can get down the road from my work at CBC bearings, and the M8 rod is plentiful at my work as are the fasteners..... the only real expense will be the ZUM BT328 rev2 and the ZUMSCAN.....and the webcam.... when you think about it this is actually a surprisingly affordable and practical build, I have to hand it to the guys who have invented this and have gone open source with it, extremely well done!

[bolsoncerrado]

I agree, if we can reach that level of detail they show on their website its indeed a very nice build for being a DIY!

Has anyone sourced the antisliding rubber yet?


NED, yes, the shield is a sepparate add on and not included in the Zuma BT328. They dont have it up for sale yet though :(

[ned73]

It will be interesting to see the price of he ZUMSCAN when its available, as I said, I have the quote for the pcbs and the components will be about AUD$10-13 to go ontop, so worst case is if I had to build it myself - 20 units would come to AUD$35-40 per piece depending on exchange rates, so its a wait and see until that part is released.

The rubber, after a quick google search (for Aussie suppliers):

http://www.totalrubber.com.au/catalogue/catalogues

with prices:

http://www.totalrubber.com.au/downloads/file/pdf/CATALOGUES/Sheet_pricing_1108.pdf

1220mm wide, sold by the lineal meter, AUD$38.90, however, I believe this stuff can be found in auto supply store as the adhesive sound proofing stuff you would put in your car which comes in small format and much cheaper and even cheaper still from Clark rubber, on a roll.. its everywhere LOL..... then again everything is more expensive in Australia so everyone overseas should find it much more cheaply....

So will wait until that Zumscan is released before organising to buy the electronics set...

[JonatanJacobsson]

Yes, i Will also wait until they release a ZUMSCAN.

Ive gotten this far:
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/09/46e798f0c35b7b14d8fa8fbbdc90f29c.jpg

I ended buying a cheeper rectangular acrylic sheet to save some money.

I have updated My BOM in the link from the first post in this thread.

Its surprisingly steady when assembled :)

The camera mount is Printed in 2 halves btw.

[bolsoncerrado]

Did you use glue? What kind? PLA i assume?

Looks great so far!

[JonatanJacobsson]

I used Loctite's Quick Glue. Figured that it would be steady enough:)

Pla yes.

I thought that i would be able to frictionweld it at first - but the finish is better with Glue i Feel.

[bolsoncerrado]

The assembly guide:



http://static3.hwlibre.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Ciclop.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/Kp59Ji4.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/FwnlAeM.jpg

[bolsoncerrado]

I've been reading on a group that they want to use green lasers instead because it seems the logitech webcam has twice the pixel sensitivity for green instead of red...

Anyone has any input on this?

[JonatanJacobsson]

Where did you read that?

[bolsoncerrado]

In a spanish google group. I'll keep reporting as it's 350 pages long and i've asked for a report as of today hehe...

BTW

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:662050

In case you got bigger lasers.

[ned73]

Well my red line lasers are on the way from china, I think it was AUD$7.18 for the 2 of them..... will start the print in the next couple of days, and will pick up my bearing at the end of the week after pay day....... looks like we are all stuck until the board and shield are fully available and that appears to be the biggest cost at the moment (for me anyway) everything else is quite readily available..... which is what is making this project extremely positive!

[ned73]

I just got back from visiting my local bearing supplier, and after nearly having a heart attack when he told me the price of the bearing, I decided to do a little online searching.... anyways, found one on aliexpress and ordered it, for the $14 odd its worth the risk compared to the price I was given in the bricks and mortar store!

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Thin-ball-16014ZZ-size-70-110-13-Motor-deep-groove-ball-bearing-steel/32238599776.html

Otherwise I have just started printing the discholder and slowly slowly will print more since theres no rush until the board and shield are both available....

[bolsoncerrado]

THe price we got is around 7eur for that bearing, shipping aside.
What were they asking you?

[ned73]

They wanted AUD$68 + GST and they did not have it in stock, I would have to wait for it as well....... things are pricey in Australia, unless the lackey behind the counter screwed up the bearing part number????

[bolsoncerrado]

10eur here, although cost of the bearing is 7eur (shipping costs from germany were 7eur). So yeah, a bit crazy price.

Also, what an insane bearing hahaha! :D

[xibwiz]

polyfuses are MF-Rxx_S1_12.0.. just need to know what the xx bit is.... otherwise all the bits are cheap on element 14.....

on the schematic pdf (https://github.com/bq/zum/blob/master/zum-scan/bqZUM_Scan_Shield_Rev.4.PDF) is noted as:
Component: PTC_Fuse, Current: 1.85A, orderingcode: MF-R185, part number: FUSE 1.85A 30V, supplier: Abacus, Temp_Max:85 ,Temp_Min:-40, Voltage:30v

[ned73]

Ahhhhhhhhh, thanks for that xibwiz, I didnt realise you could get the info from right clicking the component ... doh... anyways, on element 14 I get AUD$89.08 just for the components to do 20 PCBS which would make it AUD$4.45 per pcb, ok if the MAIN board is available and enough people show interest I may just order the PCBs for the ZUM scan and populate the board myself...... so the board would be AUD$25ish.... all up per piece for an order of 20...... maybe we wait and see what the ZUMSCAN will be worth from the BQ store....

[ned73]

Well here are the first parts in green.... just to be different!

618

[bolsoncerrado]

Reupload them please ;) or use imgur.com ;)

[ned73]

No problem, image resized and hopefully will work this time..

[bolsoncerrado]

The "Pi" version of Ciclop, PiClop, is in the works, I think...

http://bill-owens.blogspot.com.es/2015/02/building-piclop.html


And the thingiverse files:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:678659

[bolsoncerrado]

Updating first post with the camera base printed in 3 attachable parts (with bolts):


https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-jz45NwhxYJA/VN3T1NJ4tJI/AAAAAAAAAM8/3qb6Jz7cX3I/s1600/porpartes.jpg


https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4Jp2ldIHERkcExVSWRtY0kxREp4Q0JnUTVSWkhUOThuS0dN/view?usp=sharing

[bolsoncerrado]

>> Alternate printable Pattern base (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:663642)

(replaces #4 in this picture:)

http://i.imgur.com/Yhs2Qw4.jpg

[bolsoncerrado]

First "home" results on spanish users completing their Ciclops...


https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0/?ui=2&ik=5dbf797ad1&view=fimg&th=14b7f96447b19f3a&attid=0.1&disp=emb&realattid=ii_i62mpgmg0_14b7f9621f04476d&attbid=ANGjdJ8mzjlHrhqBTBkZ9VEceM63KntDdsxxesaIuHS 2JlMFEY633IMUUEyXqcEa9iDtRGpP5T0qfV1JWshjlWKJ9baVq 3-y2cW-fd74tquLGRiQhUzDY5hY96ps-JA&sz=w1124-h960&ats=1423831725845&rm=14b7f96447b19f3a&zw&atsh=1



https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-2zaERLHI8wg/VNjCDRr7G_I/AAAAAAAAAtA/ByBatEN3bMQ/s1600/4841775600aaf12b0a57ee9144553937.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Iyfvq9o8s74/VN2zXWZMU9I/AAAAAAAAALw/GILu1iappOs/s1600/IMG_20150212_233532.jpg

[JonatanJacobsson]

Wow! Nice! :) What electronics did he usE?

[bolsoncerrado]

I think they're using a CNC driver with a modified firmware... "or" some set up the shield using a breadboard...

[ned73]

I was going to say did they already have the shield and board out already.... but obviously some savvy tech guru has found a way around it with a breadboard...... the main firmaware will work with the arduino uno since its the same chipset, you just have to figure out the pinouts etc..... much easier to buy the board and shield when they fully release it....

[ned73]

Hi all! Been busy printing successfully and unsuccessfully LOL, managed to get all the parts printed out but had my batch of green PLA go bad half way through so had to switch to gray. I managed to find a nice cheap Logitech webcam from MSY computers here in Australia for AUD$25.00, so all I am waiting for now is the 2 lasers, the bearing and the board and shield.

681

682

683

684

I hope the pictures came through ok....

[bolsoncerrado]

Taking shape! Congratz! ;)

[bolsoncerrado]

Did anyone here print the "disc holder" yet? Can you send me the gcode you used?

I'm still having issues with the layer displacement and so far I can discard DRV over heat (just happened on first layer, right after turning on the printer) and Y motor speed (tried with 6000, 5000 and 3000 mm/min with no luck).


Thanks!

[ned73]

Well I managed to upload the firmware to my Arduino Uno after much fiddling - the Horus software will use either UNO or the BT328scan board as a selectable option, and I have found a Chinese PCB maker to make 20 Zumscan PCB boards for US$80, I have ordered the parts from element 14 and now it is just a waiting game until everything arrives and I can put it all together and make sure it works before getting out to you guys. It should work out to about AUD$12-14 per board me thinks, I wont know the exact amount until I pay for the PCBS.....

I should note that the A4988 driver isnt factored into the cost as you can buy them cheap on ebay... I am just doing the Zumscan board....

Hey Bolson, I will see if I can find that gcode for you, I may have already deleted it, but I can reslice if necessary....

[bolsoncerrado]

What slicing soft do u use?

[bolsoncerrado]

Now that i realize, did you print the webcam support in 1 piece??

[ned73]

I used repetier host with slicer and yes I printed it in one piece after moving the frame around to get it centered and changing the bed size in the firmware coz 195 just isnt enough...

- - - Updated - - -

Hmmm I am having trouble now communicating with the chinese UNO, all the serial monitors see the board and the Horus welcome message comes up, but it will not accept commands for some reason..... here we go with another learning curve LOL... I should note my arduino UNO is a reallyyyyyyy cheap ($4) chinese dcc duino thats a pain to work with... I think I will have to bite the bullet and get a real one LOL.

[bolsoncerrado]

Thanks, but I finally set up the new CUra with all settings reviewed from scratch and I raised the bed size to 200x200x200 as well...

NExt time i try to print the camera base, will try to do it in one go and let's see...

Did you have any corner lifting? I dont think bed is heated to the exact frame limit....

Did you save the .gcode for the moved camera base? :)

[ned73]

Yep I had some corner lifting from the first 3 attempts, it took about 5-6 goes for me to get it centred and to stop the lifting then had to change the filament due to poor filament quality (hence the grey was used lol) I had all sorts of problems but I persisted becuase I wasnt going to let this stop me LOL. I may not have the code anymore, but that dosnt matter, if you slice it with the 200x200 bed size in cura you will see where the object lands, then it will be a matter of running the actual print to see where it ends up on the bed on the first layer, then adjusting the actual rapide frame to get it centred, like I said it took a few goes to get that right, but now my printer is pretty much dead on centred. I finally stopped the corner lifting by using brand blue painters tape with COPIOUS amounts of Elmers glue, and I mean alot of glue.....

[bolsoncerrado]

Thanks for the tips...

What kind of poor filament quality were u using (brand or place of purchase?) and why did you call it "poor quality"? I'm having issues with red eSUN PLA right now (whilst black eSUN PLA was performing nice).

And.... how do you get to print a piece in a specific area of the bed??

I thought everything got "auto-centered" no matter what when was there only one piece to print.

[ned73]

I bought some nasty el cheapo stuff from ebay because it was a "bargain" LOL, something from China, but it seems to be hit and miss with filament at the moment, got some good stuff that would not print, then all of a sudden it works.. go figure...

You can print in a specific area when you place the model on the workspace in Cura or Repetier etc, you just move the STL model to where you want it to go and then slice and the printer will print in that corner of the bed or wherever you placed the model on the softwares workspace..... yes it will get autocentred when first loaded, but you can move the object anywhere you like on the bed.

- - - Updated - - -

Wow, just now some electronic parts arrived for the zumscan LOL, that is fast, only ordered them yesterday lol

[ned73]

Ok, the arduino UNO works!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Use this program to upload the HEX file to arduino UNO - http://xloader.russemotto.com/

Then run Horus with camera connected and go through the wizard and she works!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! of course you need the other bits but they are on the way!!!!!!!!!!!!!

here is the Horus Hex file for anyone that needs it:

[ned73]

And all of a sudden the bearing from Ali Express also just turned up LOL, and it all fits nicely!!!!!!!

Just need the PCB's and I can solder and get this up and running!!!

Oops, forgot about the lasers...... they still need to turn up!

[ned73]

Okies, PCB's have been ordered, each will be AUD$5.25 before adding components and they should be here either late next week or the week after! Just need the lasers to arrive LOL.

[bolsoncerrado]

So you're fitting them or sending them as kits or what? :D final price? :D

[ned73]

Okies, Final costings for the ZUMSCAN PCB with base components not fitted will be as follows with costings based on 20 Units in Australian dollars:

One unpopulated PCB will be AUD$5.25

The base components to populate the pcb from Element14 and the 2.54mm headers and jumpers from ebay to populate the board (not soldered, only kit form) will be AUD$13.47

The total for the KIT that you will need to solder together will be AUD$18.72 – and since the Australian dollar is not performing so well it should be cheaper for anyone overseas.

In Kit form I can post this in a CD Mailer (large letter rate) worldwide for AUD$2.75

In Australia the large letter rate is AUD$1.40.

If it has to be built then shipping cost skyrockets because I am outside the letter rate size according to Australia Post ie: USA AUD$14.10, United Kingdom AUD$18.20 other European countries AUD$20.20 - also I havnt factored in the cost in time to actually build this as yet so best if you get this in kit form.

In Australia the Built item to post would cost AUD$7.45 as of Monday 2nd March 2015 as Australia post continue their price gouging.

So ideally you will want this as a kit that you can solder together to keep costs as low as possible.

The only item you will need to add is your own A4988 stepper driver as I cannot find them cheap enough so best to source that locally.

Before I even consider sending these out I will be testing my one to make sure all is ok once I have all the parts in the coming weeks. Having said that, 3 are already spoken for LOL, 1 for myself and 2 other guys I know which leaves 17.

So basically this item will fit onto an Arduino Uno or the ZUM BT-328 (the only difference between the Zum and the UNO is that the ZUM BT-328 has Bluetooth and that’s about it, oh and an on/off switch from what I can see).

I am still waiting on parts to arrive so its now a matter of waiting.

[bolsoncerrado]

Sounds cool enough! Count me in for a kit.

[bolsoncerrado]

Ciclop developer Jesus Arroyo has just launched a Google Group (https://groups.google.com/forum/?hl=es#!topic/ciclop-3d-scanner/) for the Scanner. English only please! ;)

Come aboard!

[ned73]

No problemo, 16 left!

Just as a curiosity, has anyone printed the black and white test calibration pattern as yet? I have tried to print it with freecad but it covers the entire A4 sheet of paper, I am not too sure how to scale it down to fit the small 3d printed holder.... any suggestions would be appreciated.

Cheers!

[ned73]

Ok figured out how to print the pattern, just go to the web page below and print from within your browser, right click and print - and its done. Oh make sure you have a large sticker sheet to print onto.

https://github.com/bq/ciclop/blob/master/svg/chessboard-pattern.svg

[ned73]

Just a quick update, the PCB's are nearing completion and should be out with DHL either late today or tomorrow, also my lasers arrived today but they are the 12mm versions so had to reprint the laser holders.

Otherwise, barring any unforseen catastrophes, I should have the PCB's by the end of the week, which means I should now get the bolts and threaded rod to assemble the main structure.

[JonatanJacobsson]

Count me in for a kit Ned :)

[clayton]

I would also take a kit - let me know how to get you payment.

Cheers!

Clayton

[ned73]

Hi all, I just got my DHL Tracking number today (Thursday 5th March) for the PCB's although it still dosnt register on the site LOL, anyways its looking like next week will have the PCB's arrive, and I will take pics of the blanks etc when they arrive so you can see whats going on.

Ok, looks like 14 left!

As I mentioned I will make sure that the PCB I build works with my Uno and that all the software etc works correctly before collecting any money etc. Your names have been placed on the reservation list for this batch.

[yik_cheung]

Can anyone print the disc-holder using Kossel mini?? I encounter a problem to print it on Kossel mini. it has be reduced the size to fit for kossel mini, but I am not good on modify the stl. Can anyone help me .

[bolsoncerrado]

will you reduce the other things too? What do you need? I can scale the STL for you but need more data.

[ned73]

Heres an updated build picture, I reprinted the main camera holder in the Green PLA as the grey did some weird stuff in the cavitys for some reason, anyways this finally all printed perfectly.

The PCB's will be here Tuesday 10th March Australian time!!

733

[bolsoncerrado]

Looks great! Is it plain green PLA or clear green PLA?

[ned73]

Its a semi clear-ish green, like I mentioned previously this was that cheap nasty PLA, I had to up the temperature a bit to 200c to get it to print a bit better.

[yik_cheung]

will you reduce the other things too? What do you need? I can scale the STL for you but need more data.

Thanks for your help.

The disc-holder.stl can not be done by re-scaling because it has the motor shift mount hole and M8 nuts hole. In fact, the disc-holder.stl needs to trim down the effective print size of their edges. In addition, the bearing-clip.stl also need to be modified because of the new modification of the disc-holder.stl. The new effective print size of disc-holder is better kept under 155mm * 155mm. It is what I want.:eek:

In addition, the pattern-holder.stl is also too big too my kossel mini .. :-(

[milstream]

Ned73, Please put me on the list too :)

[bolsoncerrado]

Send me a spool of filament and I?ll print a set of pieces for you ;)

[milstream]

That is a very nice offer bolsoncerrado

[ned73]

milstream is on the list which leaves 13 pieces.

[yik_cheung]

Send me a spool of filament and I?ll print a set of pieces for you ;)
Thanks for your kindly offer:) One of my friend has solved my problem. He has modified the stl for me and I have printed it out last night. I am now waiting for my pcd, then I may continue my ciclop:)

[ned73]

Guess what just arrived.... PCB goodness all shrink wrapped and fresh!
740

741

[ned73]

Well just assembled the board with the bits, pics as below - a nice fine tip soldering iron is highly recommended!!

1. The bits:

742

2. Resistors:

743

3. Capacitors:

744

4. Reset switch & Power socket:

745

5. Some Pin headers:

746

6. Stepper drive headers:

747

7. Diodes and RTC's:

748

8. Family pic - the headers to join the UNO are under the Zumscan:

749

- - - Updated - - -

Unfortunately I do not have the 12V 1.5 amp power supply to actually power this thing and test it so hopefully tomorrow I will get one and see how it all runs.

[bolsoncerrado]

Wow impressive work!

You even cloned the brand hahaha

[ned73]

Thats from the ZUMSCAN zip file, its all open source, the PCB guys just used the unedited cad files and stencils as presented to them in the zip file I sent them. I chose the white pcb with black markings as per the original images, but could have gone red, green, blue or black.... but the white with black looks simple and suits this item.

I am kicking myself for not having a power supply though otherwise I would have had it running by now....

[bolsoncerrado]

Nice ;) So when can you send 2 of the PCBs to me? :D Did you include the components too, in kit form?

[ned73]

Ok, just did a really quick test the board is working, but I have no idea how to calibrate it all so its just hit and miss for the moment.... if anyone knows of any tips or tricks that might help, might be an idea to start posting here.

Heres the pics:

750

And the scanned result, it seems to produce to images within each other:

751

So the Zumscan board works with my UNO and now its time to figure out how to get a good scan.

Oh with Bolsons previous post we have 13 PCB's left.

I am waiting for the extra stepper driver headers to now turn up (I ordered the wrong amount and wrong type with the long pins, should have been short pins) so when the last parts arrive I will begin to ship out.

[bolsoncerrado]

Did you use the calibration pattern correctly? I'm totally as new as you on this... but great news that pcbs work ;)

[ned73]

Yep, used the calibration pattern as per the horus software, but I must be missing a setting somewhere.... will play with it more over the weekend when I have more time.

[ned73]

A Video on the assembly instructions:



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VYQuiM_4nls

[ned73]

Ok, just played around some more, it helps to get the lasers line as vertical as possible and have the thinnest beam which means focusing them!!

[bolsoncerrado]

Yep focusing is important hehe

[ned73]

Hi everyone, this is just a quick update/rehash of the earlier post #60 on page 6 regarding the 20 Zumscan kits I am offering.

I have received some more components today and I have 9 unassembled ZUMSCAN kits that can be sent off immediately.

Prices for the kits are in Australian dollars.

I am able to fit 2 kits per Large Letter postal Box (see picture below for box).

The total for ONE KIT that you will need to solder together will be AUD$18.72

Postage outside of Australia via regular Airmail Large Letter for one kit will be AUD$2.75 for a total of:

AUD$18.72 + AUD$2.75 = AUD$21.47

Postage within Australia via Large Letter for one kit will be AUD$1.40 for a total of:

AUD$18.72 + AUD$1.40 = AUD$20.12

PLEASE NOTE: THE KIT DOES NOT INCLUDE THE A4988 STEPPER DRIVER, YOU MUST SUPPLY THAT YOURSELF.

I am including the photos of how the kit will be packed and shipped below.

Payments will be via Paypal so please send me a PM with your email and postal address so I can send a Paypal money request to you. Once payment is received your kit will be posted.

Due to the nature of type of postal service used there will not be a tracking number as the package is being sent via Large Letter. If you would like tracking then Postal cost will increase DRAMATICALLY, more than the kit will be worth.

Remember, you will need to assemble the kit yourself. You will receive the parts as per the pictures below. A fine tipped soldering iron is highly recommended.

And now the pics:

754

755

756

757

758

759

[bolsoncerrado]

That is awesome ned, thanks for setting this up!

[ned73]

No problem, glad to get this up and running!

For the people that have theirs up and running....Does anyone know what the focal point of the lasers is supposed to be by any chance? Is it supposed to be dead centre of the rotating table or a point just in front of centre or the back of the table? I am asking because I am still getting that "ghost" image ie: one correct image in the centre, and a second image surrounding the first image like a shadow and it kind of seems to vary each time I fiddle with the lasers...

[bolsoncerrado]

What degrees are your lasers? 40º? 60º?

[ned73]

Um, no idea what degrees they are..... would you be referring to the angle they are set in relation to the round platform or is it a technical spec for the laser it self?

This is the laser I am using:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/141362575260?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[bolsoncerrado]

The focusing lenses and angle the lenses are set for.

[ned73]

Hmm, ok, I will have a bit more of a play today, but I may also look for the smaller lasers that were originally used to see if they are fixed focus etc.

[ned73]

Ok, I cant find the specs for my lasers, so dare I ask, which 60 degree lasers is everyone using.... I will try and play with the focusing on my current setup, but it might be wise to find the original lasers used by Jesus for the Cyclop and if they are fixed focus.

[bolsoncerrado]

Will try to enquiry him...

[ned73]

Thanks for that, greatly appreciated!

[bolsoncerrado]

Has anyone printed the back cover of the camera holder? any suggestions? i did try once and it was quite... brittle? fragile? did you print it vertically or horizontally?

[JonatanJacobsson]

I printed it vertically. The slicer made it 2 lines thick, but the print was so slow that it did not matter. I rotated it around Z so that it was pararell with the X-axis. Layer height was 0,1mm

[milstream]

I also printed vertically only with .2 layer height. I used a brim to aid in support.

766

[bolsoncerrado]

will try your version milstream, thanks!

[ned73]

Yep use the brim otherwise it will kind of detach half way through the print.... I found that out after 3 or so goes....

Oh and I broke one of my lasers so have to wait for another one to turn up.... lucky they are cheap...

[bolsoncerrado]

Broke like what?

[milstream]

ned73, Did the post in the camera body line up to your arduino UNO? All the images of the ones I have seen do not have the holes in a rectangular layout. How did you attach the board?

[ned73]

I have one laser that is focused perfectly with a nice crisp vertical line, and the second laser will not focus anymore, its just a big wide red light, its really weird.

Milstream, in regards to the Uno, yes the UNO will not fit the 4 small prongs, I intend to cut them off and either use double sided tape to hold it in place or soucre some standoffs and drill the four holes to suit the uno. At the moment mine is just a dangling mess of wires while I try and calibrate and get the laser working...

Oh by the way everyone who is using the UNO, make sure you put 2 or 3 layers of electrical tape ontop of the UNO's USB port so that the ZUMscan power socket prongs that stick out dont touch the metal USB bit and short out. It may even be an idea to bend the power supply prongs over slightly before soldering... ahh the joy of hindsight....

[yik_cheung]

Mine just arrived

[JonatanJacobsson]

180mm disc for the BQ Scanning platform:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:727364

[bolsoncerrado]

Thanks Jonatan!

I wonder why 180mm?

I also wonder why did you cut in half your camera holder. I did manage to print it in full with the rapide!

[JonatanJacobsson]

I didnt need anymore :) And i wanted to add a Brim to counter warping - since the object was quite big. Since we're already limited to a width of 195mm, 180mm seemed ok. When using 180mm, the disc fits nicely on top the disc holder.
772
Btw:

"Hi everyone! We will sell the full Ciclop DIY kit on March. For more information contact with http://www.bq.com/gb/contact.html."

Quoted from Jesús Arroyo, BQ employee.
http://diwo.bq.com/en/presentacion-ciclop-horus/#comment-1377

This means that they will start to sell the electronics needed. So probably the all the ZUM-stuff you need and the stepper & lasers etc.
I was hoping to make a Raspberry Pi version of it so i wont have to have my stationary computer running when scanning - but if they present an DIY electronics kit, i will probably buy them instead :) Seems easier to me since i dont have the required skillset.

I've looked at FreeLSS, and that seems like a good way to start. They have a convenient web interface and i had not much trouble getting it to run on a raspberry. I get the camera running - but will still need PCB for controlling the stepper and lasers :/

[ned73]

Hi all, I forgot to upload these pics yesterday, but hopefully you can see where I have placed the electrical tape on the UNO usb port so it dosnt short the shield:

775

[bigfella]

Got my kit from ned73 today. Already soldered up and ready to go. When I get the rest of my parts. Thanks ned23 it's a great service you offer.

[ned73]

Heres another pic showing stepper orientation on the ZUMSCAN shield, I forgot to upload this the other day:

779

As you can see, with the A4988 driver you mount the stepper so the trim pot is closest to the power supply in.

Just an update, my other laser arrived today, which rather surprised me, hooked it up, and went through the wizard again but it didnt like the auto check for some reason, the skipped and went to calibrate (BTW this is the windows version of horus I am using), and the lasers flicker fine then go to scan and I still get the double ghost image for some reason - is it possible that there are supposed to be 2 separate images that will be "meshed" together when you export this to the conversion program?

Anyways, I tried the auto wizard again, and no luck, then I went to calibrate, and the laser calibration failed, yet I can manually turn the lasers on and off and spin the table around no problems.

I will try and uninstall horus and reinstall and start fresh now that my lasers are dead vertical and focused to a nice crisp line..... and the struggle continues.... dare I ask what lasers will everyone else be using?

[bolsoncerrado]

I'd say you better ask in english on the Google group for Horus... and then share results here ;)

Jesus monitors that group and hopefully he can help a bit more than us ;)

[ned73]

Hmm do you have a link to that group by any chance?

I managed to uninstall horus then reinstall it and got further along the calibration process where the lasers are now triangulated... but still ghosting the image....

[bolsoncerrado]

https://groups.google.com/forum/?hl=en#!forum/ciclop-3d-scanner

[ned73]

Thanks for the link, have posted my message hopefully we can get some detailed setup instructions.

[ned73]

Ok, last update before I give up for tonight LOL, I need a life!!

I managed to triangulate the lasers in the manual setup, and the bed calibration and did a scan, but now I am missing the base of the part for some reason.... so this will be a very steep learning curve....

[milstream]

I am going to try these

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271637364199

[JonatanJacobsson]

Ill try these tomorow:
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=251362536227

Hoping they Will do the job:)

[bigfella]

Has anyone had success with a Standard 47mm high Stepper motor. I bought a 0.9 deg motor but of course it is tall. I was thinking of modifying the motor holder, but then I would have to modify the camera holder also and I don't really want to make that any taller. As I was hoping to print that in one peace.

[ned73]

Hi all, just another update, make sure you have a nice bright light to light up the work piece!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I was able to go through the auto check successfully and the calibration successfully as well and it setup nicely, however, my lasers are a pain to get vertical so slight ghosting still but it is improving, I think i will try another fixed focus set of lasers so I can really get them vertical so the triangulation is spot on.... now to enjoy the day LOL....

Bigfella, I had a small stepper motor left over from my shapeoko 2 build (I went to nema 23s), dont know the specs but it fit nicely under the mount with room to spare. Its a nema 17 shihong motor 42BYGH33-1334A model, its cheap nasty but its working....

[bigfella]

Thanks I bought mine with 23s so I didn't do the upgrade. I have already got the 17. .. 9 deg. But it may be easier to get a smaller on. I will have a look at the on the z axis on my shapeoko and see if it is the same size. If it is I should be ok I guess. Thanks for the tip.

[ned73]

This is what I got so far with my wonky lasers.... I am still missing the bottom bit of the image even after successful auto check and calibration....

this:
780
from this:

781

I have a desktop lamp just sitting directly behind the camera and point slightly above the object as you can see from the shadow. Apologies for the crappy photos LOL.

[ned73]

One more go before I head out.... no ghosting on this one, but part of the base missing and top of the head, I watched this carefully and no second image within the other, maybe it only happens with cylinders?? Alot of artefacts here and there and also missing some of the parts coloured black... the struggle will continue later...

Anyways heres the pics:

782

from this:

783

[bolsoncerrado]

Try asking jesus about this... i recall someone said less light is better under certain situations...

[ned73]

Hi Bolson, thanks for your help, I have posted on the google group and will check for any replies in the next day, I am about to collapse after today lol.

I just did a quick check and I have 9 kits left I believe.

Also if people could let me know when their kit arrives that would be appreciated, I am trying to see how long postage times are taking for these parcels to travel from Australia to their overseas destinations.....

[ned73]

Hi all, just a quick check in, still playing with the settings and the actual physical light in the room I am scanning in, sometimes I get ok results other times I get bits missing as pictured above LOL, so its slow going.

I have ordered some other lasers as per milstream: http://www.ebay.com/itm/271637364199

Hopefully the fact that they are focused will remove one problem area.

Another thing to add as well, I have seen there are 2 versions of UNO floating around - one has the "CORRECT" Usb chip that the arduino drivers pick up asap and there is another "cheap special" version that has some weird CH340g usb driver or something like that. Please note I am using the correct version as the Horus software installs the Arduino drivers/ftdi? to find the UNO first time without a problem, I have no idea what will happen with the other version, but from what I can tell you have to install the "special" usb driver to get windows and horus to see it.

[bolsoncerrado]

the CH version is a chinese clone, has a weird driver settings....

Keep us posted on the lasers, its the only piece im missing and havent still decided to get.

[bolsoncerrado]

Final "factory" pieces posted at Thingiverse:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:740357

[jem-tech]

Hello do you still have any of this kits left for sale. If do can you pm me payment info. Thanks

[Timelord83]

Hi Bolson, thanks for your help, I have posted on the google group and will check for any replies in the next day, I am about to collapse after today lol.

I just did a quick check and I have 9 kits left I believe.

Also if people could let me know when their kit arrives that would be appreciated, I am trying to see how long postage times are taking for these parcels to travel from Australia to their overseas destinations.....

i'll take one ned73!!!

[a.bencini]

hi ned73 i need a couple of kits, do you send to italy?
if yes tell me total cost and paypal to make payment

thx
Antonio

[yik_cheung]

Does anyone has a good scanning result on BQ ciclop?? My friend and I have built one and have gone through the calibration on Horse. However, the scanning result of us are not good . :( We have tried to fine tune the laser beam focus and the webcam focus, but no improvement gains. Is anyone willing to share their experience how to tune the BQ ciclop ?



my BQ ciclop

804

My friend's one
807

scanning on Horse

805

Open the .PLY file by MeshLab

808

[ned73]

Hi all, just quickly, all kits have been sold!!!!!!!!!!!

[bolsoncerrado]

Try with different light conditions (ambient)...

[bolsoncerrado]

ned, just got your kit today in the mail (BCN, Spain ;))
posted on the 15th, 11 days is not that bad ;)

thanks!

[ned73]

Hi Bolson, glad to hear the kit arrived!!!! Now its off to work for me.

[clayton]

Hi All,

Is it possible to increase the quality with a full HD webcam? Are there other cams that will work?

Thanks!

[bolsoncerrado]

The software is open source so as long as you know how to "interpretate" the HD images...

[milstream]

For anyone using 9mm dia lasers, I have modified the laser mount and it it available here
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:743315
811

[dtom]

Hi All,

I have built one and have gone through the calibration on Horse. However, the scanning result of us are not good .
817

And I try the best angel
813

Straight the laser using chessboard-pattern
815
816

After wizard calibration and then try to scan, crossing point at the target center
814

But still ghosting, anyone know how to fix it pls?

[ned73]

Hmm.... Seems I am not the only one fiddling with settings... I had the best results with calibration when I had ALOT of light, but after calibration I lose bits of the image.... and my lasers were not 100% vertical like yours... which type of lasers are you using if I may ask? Has anyone tried the green line lasers as yet?

Also, has anyone played with the logitech software settings at all... not the ones in horus, but the actual logitech ones... do we need to put a special background behind the subject we are scanning..... so many questions....

[dtom]

Hmm.... Seems I am not the only one fiddling with settings... I had the best results with calibration when I had ALOT of light, but after calibration I lose bits of the image.... and my lasers were not 100% vertical like yours... which type of lasers are you using if I may ask? Has anyone tried the green line lasers as yet?

Also, has anyone played with the logitech software settings at all... not the ones in horus, but the actual logitech ones... do we need to put a special background behind the subject we are scanning..... so many questions....


I'm using like #122 (http://www.print3dforum.com/showthread.php/285-BQ-Ciclop-Build-your-own-DIY-3D-Scanner-for-less-than-500-Made-in-Spain!?p=6194&viewfull=1#post6194) and only use red one.

I have no change the logitech software settings because output file just point cloud, I guess the two laser seems to be the angle or distance caused ghosting problem.

I tried change background : Wall, Blue, and black ,The results seem no different, as long as you background are fixed (no any thing moving)

[bolsoncerrado]

You can already order your own Ciclop for 249EUR now:
http://www.bq.com/es/productos/ciclop.html

[milstream]

I have $103USD invested in mine :)

The kit does contain everything including the printed parts.

[ned73]

I am at about AUD$138 ish.... or there abouts... the new lasers will increase that though lol... hopefully they will be here soon...

[regpye]

824
Here is my redesigned cover, I made it a bit thicker as the original is a bit flimsy. I printed it vertical with a brim and used 0.3mm layer and PLA

[Holgamods]

All I see is photos of the Ciclop, photos of 3d scanned images, and just one photo of a printed model created using one of these.
Does anyone have photos of parts you have printed?
So far from what I see on this thread, I'm not impressed enough to invest in this.

[dtom]

Like this?
830

The original model:
831


I use this method to convert the .ply format to .stl format
Cleaning_Up_Point_Cloud_Meshes_in_Meshlab_For_3D_P rinting (http://en.m.wikiversity.org/wiki/MakerBot/Cleaning_Up_Point_Cloud_Meshes_in_Meshlab_For_3D_P rinting)

Because the software seems not completely finished, and now after scan only be saved as point cloud storage format (.ply) and there are a lot of places did not have scan, so need to edit from 3d software, I'm still learning how to modify by them.

Sorry for my english is not good :p

[Holgamods]

But the scan looks nothing like the bear.
It looks more like a yellow penguin. :)

[ned73]

Well at least the spammer has been banned!

I received my new lasers yesterday and have a few days to up my sleave to fiddle with the scanner. I think I will try and run my scanner inside my white photo box to try and eliminate any external interference that the lasers may pick up and to ensure a nice clean source of light. Lets hope I am on the right track....

[bigfella]

Can some please tell me what Jumpers I need to use with the ZumScan Shield.

Thanks

[ned73]

If your using the A4988 stepper driver then use the 3 jumpers on the 6 pins that go under the driver, I believe that gives you the 1/16 micro steps that matches up with the firmware settings.

[bigfella]

Great thanks. Did you get your new lasers? Are they any better?

[A.Designs]

Happy to present my last design : a modular scanner able to accept arduino and raspberry because I cannot choose between both !
It is also ready to accept future improvments.
My design of CICLOP is using a C920 logitech cam.
You can get more details on my blog : https://adapteddesigns.wordpress.com/
842

I'm still looking for arduino shield working like the zum shield, idem for the raspberry, if anyone knows about this ? Thanks.

[ned73]

Been running around so havnt had time to setup the new lasers, but will see later this afternoon...

- - - Updated - - -

I use this on my raspberry pi with shapeoko2 and gshield:

http://www.seeedstudio.com/depot/Alamode-Arduino-Compatible-Raspberry-Pi-Plate-p-1285.html

you should be able to mount the zumscan on the Alamode then the alamode on the rpi, but dont know if horus will work with the rpi....

[ned73]

Well one of my new lasers is not working so I have gone back to my original setup, but have made some modifications to the laser holders to help me get them vertical and focused.. which seemed to help!!!!... will post pics of the mods in the next day or so when I get some time....

[milstream]

Ned73,

I received my focused lasers also but I do not have all my scanner parts yet. Can I connect the lasers directly to a 5v power source to see if they are working? or do they have to be powered through the ZUM shield?

Thanks!

[bolsoncerrado]

If u got 5v lasers and u got a 5v power source, i say it should be fine to try them!?

Which focused ones did u get and what kind of focus? fixed or manual?

cheers.

[bolsoncerrado]

A.Designs that set up looks very nice!

Wdy mean u cant decide between rasp and ardu?

If i could, i would go rasp all the way!

[milstream]

bolson,

These are the ones I have, Fixed focus.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271637364199

[A.Designs]

Hi Admin,

Thank you for your compliments.
Well the choice is difficult because CICLOP software is really brilliant and very user friendly even if scan aren't accurate as the one you could get with Atlas. On the other hand, Atlas gives really fine scan but is really hard for non Rasp user : takes time to get running and is not for simple user who just want to get is ply file I think.
For my applications, I found that both are interresting. That is why I would like to get both in one : reason of my developpement, just switch camera holders and controller and I get the solution I need.

Regards.

[bolsoncerrado]

My guess is Horus is still in development and not a final version, and will do nothing but improve on time and as soon as users report issues and try it more...

Official Ciclop sales were launched last week and very few people globally have a working unit yet.... But Im in their spanish group as well and they've set up near a hundred units part orders so we expect the scanner to be famous really soon.

Also, they posted the Ciclop project on thingiverse so the more we advance the better....for the software ;)

[ned73]

Hi all, apologies for not updating sooner, I have been playing with my focussing lasers and have modified the laser holder by just drilling through it so the focus bit of the laser is sticking out which means I can now get a nice clean crisp vertical line. I have also adjusted the laser offset so I get the lasers crossing pretty much in the middle of the platform.

Laser focus ring just protuding:

857

I had to adjust this side quite a bit for some reason to get it to cross in the centre of the platform with the other laser:

858

[bolsoncerrado]

So u got better scans then?

Did you try different ambient lights and backgrounds too?

[ned73]

I actually tried it in my kitchen which was middle of the day with ok light, nothing special in the background and the calibration worked with a nice fine crisp VERTICAL laser line (it appears that horus needs to see a fine clear laser line otherwise it just wont calibrate properly), and the ghosting is almost gone which might have to do with the lasers crossing at the centre of the rotating table, so I may still need to tweak the crossing. I also noticed the scanning took just a little bit longer for some reason which resulted in a slightly better capture of my dalek figure and it didnt pick up artefacts in the distant background like before, but it was still missing its black dots LOL. Slowly getting there... Oh and remember to save the calibration profiles so you can fiddle with each setup...

[bolsoncerrado]

Ive read somewhere that the less light the better (of course, balancing with visible piece of course).

[bigfella]

Wow it shouldn't be so hard. I can get it to auto cal. But I am getting the same as you ned. ghosting. Giving me the @#$!

[ned73]

They just put up the software manual and guide to using it... finally...:

https://static-bqreaders.s3.amazonaws.com/file/ciclop/Horus_User_manual_EN.pdf

https://static-bqreaders.s3.amazonaws.com/file/ciclop/Horus_Guide_for_Optimum_Scanning_EN.pdf

Time to read the instructions LOL and more fiddling..... One thing to note, on the last calibration I did I had a colour hashed/criss cross pattern appear on the monitor that was overlayed on the checker board calibration pattern while rotating and thats when it successfully calibrated and I had better scan results...

[bolsoncerrado]

Wohoo! :D

thanks for the update.

[ned73]

Yep those damn ghosts.... LOL, I have been getting better scans with minimal ghosting now so still tweaking the mechanical setup....but the manual does help..... I just want a shark now for all these extra laser beams I have laying around now, as per Dr Evil LOL.....

[bigfella]

I would love to know if anyone has a usable scan yet. I defenetly don't I have read the manual. But hasn't really helped yet. Angel over at google groups it being a great help. But no go yet.

[ned73]

Hi all, I have just tried to quickly scan a few things and heres my results. I did a brand new calibration and it setup a new profile ok, I then scanned this rubik snake and for some reason, it actually did the scan WITHOUT the ghosting!!!!!!! I have no idea what I did to achieve that, however, I am finding that the scanner does not like certain colours, as you can see my rubik snake has blue and the blue is lost in the scan. Anyways, I will try and do something with the scan since there is no ghosting, does anyone know how meshlab works? maybe I can add solids to the missing flat surfaces to get a printable model.

Rubik snake being scanned:
880

The resulting capture, with NO GHOSTING!!!!!!
881

[bolsoncerrado]

Did you try the same object with less ambient light?

[bigfella]

Oh I envy such results :rolleyes:887

[bolsoncerrado]

bigfella, did you try a different background?

[ned73]

Apologies for not replying sooner, I think I have to play with ambient light settings now, I have mine set to low which shows the checker pattern nice and clear like it is in daylight and if I go to high or medium it grays it out severley, I will try medium in the next day or so when I have time and pass on the results.

As for current setup, I have gotten the lasers as crisp and thin as possible and as vertical as possible. I have manually adjusted the laser holders to get them to criss cross at the dead centre of the rotating platform and that has given me the results as above. I did not use any background at all. Like I said I will play with the ambient light settings now to see the differences it makes.

Bigfella thats looking ok there, I know its a fiddly thing, but I think we are on the right track, its those little settings that may be stuffing us around.

One thing to note, do not use red coloured objects lol, just like the instructions say, the red laser on red object will equal NO IMAGE at all, like using a red light at night on a map with red roads printed, you just wont see them LOL.

[SIMPAD17]

Hello to everyone on this thread.
I've given this project a try.
I've finished the structure and waiting for the electronics to come in.
From what I can see, I'm going to have an interesting time trying to get this thing to give some good results.
Lets see what happens.
890891892

[bolsoncerrado]

Wow nice setup, you covered every and all rods hehehe ;)

Are you a rapide lite owner too?

[bigfella]

That looks fantastic. Let us know your results. It can be a frustrating ride. I'm yet to get a good scan. But I will 😊

[milstream]

I made this adapter to hold an Arduino board in the Ciclop scanner.
Break off the 4 Zum Scan board posts and fit this adapter around the rectangular ribs.

895
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:770664

[SIMPAD17]

So I've done my first scans, and are getting the ghosting issue.
I've narrowed it down to the stepper motor. It is rotating 4x faster than the software thinks.
Anyone had the same issue?

[ned73]

Hey Milstream, thanks for that part there, very handy indeed!

SIMPAD17, what specs does your stepper motor have? I am pretty sure that with an A4988 driver you are supposed to get 16 microsteps for the nema 17 at 1.8degrees which in theory is supposed to match the firmware settings... in theory of course...hmm never thought to check that....

[SIMPAD17]

Hi Ned73,
I am using an Arduino with CNC shield and A4988 driver. Stepper is 1.8deg.
I am using a modified firmware horus-fw.
Is there any other reason why stepper motor would turn faster? I don't believe the calibration settings would affect that. I am going to start looking through the firmware see if something is up.

[ned73]

Hmm... best to check your modified firmware, again I am pretty sure it is setup for 16 microsteps, but I cant for the life of me remember where I read the specs for that....

[SIMPAD17]

Everyone,
After a long night finally got my first scans!!!!
So I am still not sure if it was a firmware issue with my stepper, but adjusting the a4988 driver got me the desired results.

Check out my first scan with texture!


896

[bolsoncerrado]

Hey thats pretty cool! what sort of ambient light did u use?

[SIMPAD17]

I have just started working on this, but based on some back knowledge, diffused light should work best.
I used a white screen behind the camera with an led light aimed at the white screen.
For background I am using black felt to reduce as much reflection as possible.

[bigfella]

Mmmm interesting. I am using .9 Deg stepper. So maybe I need to change some settings.

[SIMPAD17]

One more for the night.
This time used two lasers, at high definition and with texture.
Here's Yoda.
897

[bigfella]

i'm very envious. But it gives me hope

[ned73]

Wow looking incredibly good! Looks like it may well be lighting causing some of our problems....

[bigfella]

Does a yo e know we're to change the steps in horus firmware. I thought it was set for. 9 deg steppers. I can't even remember why I thought this. But know I am having second thoughts. It doesn't look like you can configure it like normal grbl.

[Jesse_DF]

You can change the steps/° in a serial console the same way as the steps in grbl https://github.com/grbl/grbl/wiki/Configuring-Grbl-v0.9

[bigfella]

Wooo hoo I have a scan. 898

All be it not very good. But i think that is just lighting.
Turns out the ghosting was from me using .9 deg stepper. not 1.8
I haven't worked out how to change the firmware yet. From what I see it is already set to 8.889 deg and that would be correct I would think. I changed the jumper on the board so I am now using 1/8. But I will experiment more. Still good news I think.
899

[Jesse_DF]

Try $100=17.778 in the serial console at 1/16 stepping !

[bigfella]

Yep that appears to have worked. Lol, I would of thought the opposite. Awesome move on now. . Time to get a good scan.

[bigfella]

900Getting there;)

[ned73]

Looks like I have to check my settings as well .... thats looking pretty good now...

[bigfella]

I think everyone out there with ghosting may want to look at thier settings. May be a silver bullet.

[Jesse_DF]

The steps/deg are easy to check, go to control panel and enter at the motor control "360", at least the disc has to do a complete 360° turn.

[bolsoncerrado]

Someone just posted this in the spanish forum:

1- Es necesario escanear con un fondo completamente negro mate.

2- El fondo negro mate debe de estar lo suficientemente alejado del
escáner como para que no sean visibles en la cámara la intersección de
los láseres con el fondo negro.

Which basically translates into how to get the best scanning results:

1- Use a black matte background
2- Set the background far enough from the scanner so the camera does NOT see the intersection of the lasers with the background.

[SIMPAD17]

Some Tips:
1. If the color capture of the image is not important.
Remove all lighting, using a box or turning off the lights.
Then adjust image to have the lasers be the most visible possible.
In advanced settings turn on lasers and adjust image until lasers capture as much of the objects contours as possible.

2. If texture is wanted.
Use a white screen behind the camera and direct light toward the screen.
Behind the object use a black non-reflective background. Black Felt works well.

3. For even more detail.
Use multiple scans of the object and merge using meshlab.

[SIMPAD17]

Also, in regards to color, I see some posts saying not to use red color objects. Actually, you should avoid using objects that have colors that absorb red light. Non-reflective dark blues are bad object colors, and black felt type is also bad for reflecting the red laser (which is why it makes a good background).

[SIMPAD17]

Another finding.
Using a red filter helps with the simple scans.
Red cellophane enhanced the capture of the red laser on my scans.
Here is a mesh of yoda.
Using:
Resolution: HIGH
Lasers: 2
Simple Scan.
Red cellophane filter.

[ned73]

Looking very good there SIMPAD17, I havnt had time to fiddle with my scanner all week so will try it out tomorrow.

[bolsoncerrado]

Nice one!

What about a green filter using green cellophane? :D

[SIMPAD17]

You don't want to filter out the laser either :).
What I'm finding is that the best bet for scanning is doing simple scans with no lights and adjusting thresholds based on the amount of laser light that is reflected back from the object.
Texture scans will always be very tough. Objects that have different colors will absorb the red laser light differently and it seems impossible to have a setting that will work over any color. So expect to always have parts of the object missing if it has a variation in colors and/or materials.
What would really help with textured scanning is to use different color lasers. Would be an interesting project to have lasers with different colors. RGB comes to mind to help improve textured scans.
First trial would probably be left laser red, right laser green.

[bolsoncerrado]

And a 4 laser system where 2 reds and 2 greens generate 2 meshes that later intersect?

As u can see here:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bayer_filter

green light provides twice the information red light gives thru CCD cameras like these webcams...

[SIMPAD17]

Hi everyone,
I've reached a point were I am happy with the scans.
I've settled with using simple scan method.
I've explored going down to .1125 steps per angle.
Below .45 steps per angle there really isn't any improvement on the scans so .45 steps per angle should be just fine for best resolution.
I've also put together a cover using felt and pieces of foam board sewn together to act as backing and as a cover from lights.
The backing works fine when using light colored objects.
For dark objects or those that don't reflect the laser light as well, I use the cover.
Check it out below.
920
921
922

[bolsoncerrado]

Wow 0 ambient light!? That goes against the manual! :D

Nice job.

[rob]

Need some help. So i have the Zum Scan DIY board all done and connected to a Arduino uno. (see attached photo)

I'm waiting on my camera, lasers and a few other parts to get here. While i wait i am printing the parts for the scanner.

What do I need to install on the Arduino? What file do I push out to it?
926

[bigfella]

if you install the horus software on your pc. you can push out the firmware from there. http://diwo.bq.com/en/horus-released/


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Jesse_DF]

Or goto https://github.com/bq/horus-fw, download the files as zip, unpack it and open the .ino-file in the arduino IDE, compile and upload . Done ^^

[rob]

Im getting the following error. Any ideas? Board is hooked up via USB.
928

[ned73]

Hi Rob, which version of the UNO do you have?

There are 2 versions out there that have different hardware USB chipsets installed, the original one has the FTDI chipset which horus will auto install as part of the arduino drivers setup.

If horus is not seeing the board (and windows isnt even having any luck either) then you may have the UNO with the CH341 (or Ch340) USB chipset which means installing the appropriate driver, try this one:

http://obdtool.com.au/VP/unonew/CH341.zip

In the mean time, I have been too busy with work to even sit down with this scanner for even an hour, but will be trying everyones suggestions over the weekend, I have some black felt background that just arrived and will try the different light settings in horus which is the one thing I never played with, I always left the light settings on low visibility which always showed a nice clear image, but I am guessing that the laser will capture more if the laser only sees the target.

By the way, which mesh software are people playing around with? Or should I say, which is the easiest to use, especially for someone who has never fiddled with design software before......???

[bolsoncerrado]

I think everybody uses meshlab...

[bolsoncerrado]

You should post this here (http://www.print3dforum.com/ozzmodz_classifieds.php).

[jaykay2PT]

OK , Hi to everyone,from a 68 year "newbie", Got my Ciclops direct from BQ for €249 inc. postage, delivered within 18 hours from ordering!!

Here is my first attempt at a scan of a model Jaguar E-type (OK I know it's red, bad choice) but what happened here??

1032



looks pregnant, this is the model
1033

[bolsoncerrado]

Whatever happened, try something else NOT red right now and post results! heheh

[jaykay2PT]

OK here is todays attempt, don't understand why it prints the images inside as well as outside, the inside is blank on the mug!
1038

1037
1039

[bolsoncerrado]

Have you tried different light conditions? And calibration more than once?

[jaykay2PT]

Not yet, so much to learn, working my way through it all, I did the calibration from the wizard, but I would like to know more about the laser calibration, saw a screenshot of it and looked nothing like mine.!!

thanks for the reply, appreciate it

- - - Updated - - -

Something I just remembered, is it best to unplug the USB leads when not using the Ciclops? the reason I ask is I could see lights glowing through the main construction last night, even though the PC was off!

[Bill3]

Another newbie here. I'm using ZUMSCAN DIY with arduino UNO I can't thru auto check, calibrate or laser triangulation. Lasers will not turn on during calibration although both left and right work fine when using laser setting. Both are aligned vertically with crisp lines. I've tried different luminosity setting lighting conditions.
Any suggestions appreciated. Thanks

[bolsoncerrado]

Which OS are you into?

[Bill3]

Windows 8.1 64 bit Thanks

[bolsoncerrado]

Any chances you can try in a different computer with different Windows version, to discard things?

[Bill3]

I'll try using windows 7

[garthvh]

This part is awesome it helped me solve my last Ciclop issue, I used Taulman Alloy 910 and it snaps right on with really strong pins, perfect with my adafruit metro that is totally flat on the bottom

[stefi]

i have the horus-fw-master with marlin on an arduino with the cnc sheild but when i start the calibration wizzard, the patern just flys right on the table from excess motor speed, can any one tell me how to lower the nema 17 speed.

[garthvh]

Do you have all three jumpers installed under the stepper driver?

[stefi]

i never did no, relised that eventually, it turns better now but scans in so objects are way to wide, like i scanned a minion but the scan looks more like a minion that needs to go to weight watchers lol, i was using a a arduino cnc board mounted on a arduino uno but only works with marlin ciclop firmware, the hours firmware will upload but does nothing as in the lasers wont turn on nor will the motor turn so going to try the uno with a zum scan board when it arrives, g code editor fails to work with the marlin version also.i did notice that the camera view when using calibration workbench is way off too, it says the base of the scan will be about 3 inches above the table so i think that needs adjusting, i guess its add the zum scan, upload the proper firmware aka not the marlin one for ciclop and tinker with it and hope for the best.

[Bantum Works]

Hi all,

Have been following this thread with interest & wondering if ned73 (http://www.print3dforum.com/member.php/148-ned73) is going to do a re-issue of the Zumscan kits ?

I've also been meaning to post this up on here : http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:954056 Yet to see if it works, will let you know how it goes ... :)

My query is - How to wire them into the Zumscan ? so that they can be turn on/off via Horus software ...


Other one is - has anyone used this 'Darlington Array' ?

1170

Ciao, Bantum ...

[stefi]

i tried the cnc sheild with an arduino, worked ok once i worked out i had to use 3 jumpers on the board but in the end i got the pre built zum scan pcb and and the components, followed the instructions and that works much better.

[dnaman]

Coupla questions:

1. When I plug the Cyclop PCB into the Arduino, the Arduino USB connector appears to short the pins on the Cyclop power connector. Do people generally have to use an insulator here or do I have something wrong?

2. My little motor-driver board - the one that plugs into the Cyclop board - came with a separate heatsink. I presume this needs to be attached to the IC. How do people attach this? Some kind of adhesive I suppose but what?

[stefi]

Coupla questions:

1. When I plug the Cyclop PCB into the Arduino, the Arduino USB connector appears to short the pins on the Cyclop power connector. Do people generally have to use an insulator here or do I have something wrong?

2. My little motor-driver board - the one that plugs into the Cyclop board - came with a separate heatsink. I presume this needs to be attached to the IC. How do people attach this? Some kind of adhesive I suppose but what?



i found the same and did what others mentioned by using a small peace of insulating tape and covered the bottom of the usb to stop possible shorting but yes i found the pins to be a bit to short and aslo, the heatsink needs be attached to the chip on the stepper driver board, i myself used thermal paste although when using the cheapo ones from china they came with small sticky pads on the bottom of the heat sink, i used those with no problem, it seems like many have forgoten about this forum as not much activity, shame.

[dnaman]

Thanks, Stefi. So it seems there's nothing unusual about my board. Since I've already trimmed (cut off) the power connector pins to minimise the interference - which leaves them with sharp corners - I think I'll look around for something a bit more substantial than insulating tape, which is easily punctured. I may even have some fish-paper if I dig for it (which probably dates me).

I'm embarrassed to say that I haven't even looked at the heatsink closely enough to see if it is self-adhesive. I guess I should do that. Failing that, you found that thermal paste holds it on OK. I didn't really imagine that as adhesive enough in its own right.

[stefi]

Thanks, Stefi. So it seems there's nothing unusual about my board. Since I've already trimmed (cut off) the power connector pins to minimise the interference - which leaves them with sharp corners - I think I'll look around for something a bit more substantial than insulating tape, which is easily punctured. I may even have some fish-paper if I dig for it (which probably dates me).

I'm embarrassed to say that I haven't even looked at the heat sink closely enough to see if it is self-adhesive. I guess I should do that. Failing that, you found that thermal paste holds it on OK. I didn't really imagine that as adhesive enough in its own right.

i found a thermal paste but in a glue at a local pc spares store, gives you 10 min work time then sets solid, might be worth looking into. i gotta sort my scanner out sometime as i kinda stepped on it and snapped the main camera stand, glued it back together but the camera is out of alignment, oops lol

[dnaman]

Thanks, Stefi. I checked out my heatsink and it does, indeed, have an adhesive pad on it .... duh!

Hopefully my scanner is a little less fragile. I got fed up with the fact that the original design wouldn't fit in my printer and the split parts (at least the ones that I found) had no way of keying the halves together. Since I have a decent machine shop I decided to bite the bullet and machine one from aluminum. Probably a dirty word around here :(. It's certainly good and solid though.

I just spent a solid hour trying to track down the firmware for the Arduino before I discovered (again) that it's tucked in with the Horus stuff. I thought I'd already sorted this out but apparently not.

Can you tell that I'm close to getting mine together?

[Bantum Works]

i tried the cnc sheild with an arduino, worked ok once i worked out i had to use 3 jumpers on the board but in the end i got the pre built zum scan pcb and and the components, followed the instructions and that works much better.

Thanks Stefi - My query was more related to adding the LED light strips & using the 'Darlington Array' to power them - I'm working on a solution in 'Fritzing', just not sure if it works yet - May need someone to check it for me when I'm done, will post it here ... :)

Add : !st Draft - here is what I was thinking of doing - Need to check it later ...

1171

Cheers, Bantum ...

[dnaman]

Next question:

Anyone know where I can currently download a proper copy of the Arduino firmware? The one at https://github.com/bqlabs/horus-fw contains a zero-byte .ino file.

(I know I can go the hex code route but I would like to have a proper copy).

[clayton]

HI All,

Just got my scanner together - the lasers work, the camera is good - connects to my MAC via Parallels and Windows 10.

A question:

I'm using a DRV8825 stepper motor - instead of the A4988 - do I need to chnage something in the firmware? Or in Horus?

Thanks!

Clayton

[stefi]

i adjusted the camera focus and that seemed to help, it is easy to do, remove the 3 screws from the front and theres a focus adjuster around the lense,just turn it.

[bolsoncerrado]

Im not 100% sure but I think the DRV drivers were not "fine" for the Ciclop....

[stefi]

im still trying to work out why when i scan something simple like an inhailer it comes out with 4 mouth pieces, tried with low light, no light and lots of light and on simple and textured scan it is the same, also when changing the exposure and brightness, round objects like a pill bottle come out ok but if the object is not round then it never comes out right, just swapped the cnc board i had for a pre made zum scan pcb by a pcb company that makes them and just assembled the rest, that did make improvements but no where near acceptable. tried a black felt type tent like ned did, no idea how he managed it.

[Raven]

Have you connected the lasers correctly? i had mine mixed up (left was connected to right and vice versa) then i had 2 mirrored images ontop of eachother, maybe that and some stepper setting in combination?


im still trying to work out why when i scan something simple like an inhailer it comes out with 4 mouth pieces, tried with low light, no light and lots of light and on simple and textured scan it is the same, also when changing the exposure and brightness, round objects like a pill bottle come out ok but if the object is not round then it never comes out right, just swapped the cnc board i had for a pre made zum scan pcb by a pcb company that makes them and just assembled the rest, that did make improvements but no where near acceptable. tried a black felt type tent like ned did, no idea how he managed it.

[stefi]

Have you connected the lasers correctly? i had mine mixed up (left was connected to right and vice versa) then i had 2 mirrored images ontop of eachother, maybe that and some stepper setting in combination?

i will take a look and let you know.