First FastBot BBP 1S 3D Printer Controller Board Unboxing pics

[bolsoncerrado]

I think I've been the lucky first unboxer of the BBP1S 3D Printer controller board (http://www.print3dforum.com/showthread.php/377-BBP-Make-your-3D-Printer-faster-The-3D-PrinterBoard-that-is-beating-every-other!) recently backed at Kickstarter. Here are the first pics I took:

http://i.imgur.com/C5FuVld.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/NEOASil.jpg?1

http://i.imgur.com/RtzqL8z.jpg?1

http://i.imgur.com/MMyDmo4.jpg?1

http://i.imgur.com/kjrPZd4.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/SOmhwQz.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/qvjVAwV.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/c1SOhTo.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/ERDFBwg.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/owCsvfH.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/S47YOS7.jpg




First Quick Setup guide:


Re: Step by Step tutorial?
http://www.wikidot.com/avatar.php?userid=2301061&size=small&timestamp=144 9915756 (http://www.wikidot.com/user:info/brettarm)Brettarm (http://www.wikidot.com/user:info/brettarm) 25 Nov 2015, 03:20



I'll go through quickly what I did and you will end up with ether a working printer or a lot of questions.


1.Assemble the case and fan to protect the main board
2.Hook up the micro usb to a PC and open a web browser and enter 192.168.7.2 in the web address
3.You will have to create an Octoprint login
4.Play with the Octoprint interface to get used to where everything is and how it works
5.Update the firmware by downloading the latest version as a .rar from the Fastbot website
6.unpack the .rar using winzip or 7-zip, it will then be a .fbot file
7.Click the update button and select the directory for the file


At this point I happened to have a Replicator 1 that blew a main board to put this board into so most of the printer hardware is ready to go.


8.I hooked up all steppers, heaters, power, fans and thermistors.
9.I added a USB hub to operate webcam and WiFi at the same time
10.Cut a 80mm hole where the 40mm fan is and installed a super quiet fan
11.Added a 5V external power-supply needed when using WiFi and webcam
12. Added connectors for auto bed probe, servo actuator and stepper motor interface.
13. remove all components from HBP and install new thermistor


Hardware all sorted


14. Enter machine parameters
15. Heat up E0, HBP and check temps are ok with IR temperature gun
16. Adjust PID settings
17. Move each axis to determine correct steps and direction.
18. Extrude check feed length is correct.
19. Go through the startup and end Gcode and modify if you need auto bed leveling


Print test


20. Pick a favorite .STL and give it a go
21. Adjst jurk, steps, temp or any other settings if there are distortions in the print


Each one of these steps may contain several attempts to move to the next.
Happy to help with any step.

[Jetguy]

OK, so the first "problem" is the board is not self powered standalone. Not sure why they did that but the logic side either requires USB or the standard 2.1mm round coaxial power jack 5V.
There are 2 through holes on the board labeled ground and 5V. That pair is directly in parallel with the round 5V logic input. Pretty sure they used the standard USB power switch setup to prevent backfeeding up USB.

I made mine standalone using a 1.5A rated Murata/Oki 150115 http://power.murata.com/data/power/oki-78sr.pdf
Main reason is the high 36V max input and the very good ratings along with very reasonable price. $4.30 cents at Digikey. (Hint, the same regulator i like for the genuine Mightyboard fix).
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/OKI-78SR-5%2F1.5-W36-C/811-2196-5-ND/2259781



I just bent the input pin straight (pin1 on the regulator) left pin 2 (ground) and pin3 (5V out) at teh right angle to the board. Just match pin2 to ground on the board and pin3 is the output feeding the 5V.
I went ahead and soldered the input to the backside of the first fuse socket so that if you blow the main fuse- the power is killed to the logic too.


https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-IbIkJpjWdB0/Ve5GklUUeCI/AAAAAAAACto/ljitU0Vbnro/s400/DSC03483.JPG (https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-IbIkJpjWdB0/Ve5GklUUeCI/AAAAAAAACto/ljitU0Vbnro/s1600/DSC03483.JPG)
Here with the fuse into the sockethttps://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ivSjrqJCtPM/Ve5G3m03YuI/AAAAAAAACtw/nOqkfrFmj98/s400/DSC03482.JPG (https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ivSjrqJCtPM/Ve5G3m03YuI/AAAAAAAACtw/nOqkfrFmj98/s1600/DSC03482.JPG)

[Jetguy]

OK, one more tip to bring up.

Use EXTREME caution with this stock firmware!!!!
There is none of the normal safety options in the code we might expect.
For example- no thermistor connected or failed thermocouple- the heater can STILL be enabled!!!! Good way to burn up your printer.
Homing is not just a tap on the endstop switch. It must be held for around a full second.
I think that ties to a semi related problem- if you are testing using manual commands, they tell you to send an M80.
To stop that session (something they should mention) send M84
If you disconnect Octoprint my motors kicked on trying to home again. BTW, you might do this say if you wanted to edit the profile/machine type.


So yeah, a little buggy if you ask me. I'm not trying to bash it, just give fair warning during testing before somebody crashes the bot.
I just saw some serious issues in use case while testing and hoping to prevent someone from damaging hardware.

I pray this gets better soon.

[Jetguy]

OK, so minor correction/update.
When using the thermocouple, unplugging it mid print (open circuit can and does happen) reading went to 1023.x and turned off the heater MOSFET.
Plugging back in, the temp reads came back- heater turned on since the reported temp was lower than set temp.

If using a thermistor, if you unplug, the reading is "off" for reported temp- however, the MOSFET for that heater is NOT disabled and stays on.

So again, in other firmware- such a bad temp reading state usually and should lockout a heater to prevent a runaway. This is Fastbot firmware has no such safety enabled that I have seen in my testing. Again, not trying to raise a huge stink here- just basic safety awareness before you melt down your J-head.

[bolsoncerrado]

Hey Jetguy, thanks for the feedback and tips! Keep'em coming!!

[Jetguy]

Another note in the firmware. Other than compiling from source, I don't see how to fix this with a simple setting.
https://github.com/fastbot3d/firmware/tree/master/unicorn (https://www.google.com/url?q=https%3A%2F%2Fgithub.com%2Ffastbot3d%2Ffirmw are%2Ftree%2Fmaster%2Funicorn&sa=D&sntz=1&usg=AFQjCNE6F_LU4Ogc6XP7_obmJC2t5-W9vQ)

The stepper hold settings are in parameter.h

This looks like Z hold is disabled??? But extruder hold is enabled???
What this assumes is that your Z axis has enough friction that after each layer move, the stepper is disabled (no longer locked) which could result in the Z stage moving from gravity alone in some smooth printers.



* Disables axis when it's not being used.



*/




#define DISABLE_X_EN false



#define DISABLE_Y_EN false



#define DISABLE_Z_EN true



#define DISABLE_E_EN false

[hpachec1]

I also backed the bbp. I have no idea how I'm suppose to connect this to the printer. It seems like you know what you're doing. Do you mind helping me out? I think I know what I'm suppose to do and that's reconnect the cables. The picture I'm attaching is of my printer. http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/10/c7cc6fba38e4efbdab543bfc040d8a01.jpg

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

[Jetguy]

I cannot give advice beyond the manual on how to connect this to any given printer.
First off, what printer is that even a picture of?

This board was made for EXPERTS who already know electronics, already are familiar with building and configuring custom built 3D printer.
Yes, it's likely this board could be adapted to your printer however, the very thing is you currently have an LCD control panel and this board does not yet have that option.

Quite frankly, you'd be better off selling that board to someone else with more experience. This is not nor could it ever be plug and play.

[Jetguy]

Again, you have to know every single component of your printer because you have to enter those specifications into the firmware of the new controller.
You have to know the wiring of your printer and how to connect it.
You have to know the steps per mm of each axis including the extruder
You have to know where your limit switches are located and how they are wired (normally open or normally closed)
You need to the voltage levels of the endstops if they are optical or magnetic because they could fry the new board if the wrong voltage.
You need to know axis lengths
You have to know what temp sensors your current printer uses and how they are wired.
You have to ensure you know the voltages and wiring of all the fans and LEDS in your printer.
You have to know the power supply and any other special wiring.

[hpachec1]

Again, you have to know every single component of your printer because you have to enter those specifications into the firmware of the new controller.
You have to know the wiring of your printer and how to connect it.
You have to know the steps per mm of each axis including the extruder
You have to know where your limit switches are located and how they are wired (normally open or normally closed)
You need to the voltage levels of the endstops if they are optical or magnetic because they could fry the new board if the wrong voltage.
You need to know axis lengths
You have to know what temp sensors your current printer uses and how they are wired.
You have to ensure you know the voltages and wiring of all the fans and LEDS in your printer.
You have to know the power supply and any other special wiring.
Yea after looking at it last night I kinda figured I wasn't going to be able to use it. Like I said I kinda figured out what was going on with the wired and connections. I also noticed the board didn't have an lcd. Which kinda sounds lame, that isn't much of an upgrade.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

[Jetguy]

Kind of annoyed the official forum and bug report stuff went down- the exact same time they launched the Indiegogo campaign.
Not crying foul quite yet, but it's way too much of a coincidence. More importantly, the fixed duty cycle on the heated bed is not yet a setting for the 0.91 update.

I haven't even connected to a machine because of this.

[bolsoncerrado]

Is there a new IGG campaing for this?

[Jetguy]

https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/bbp-upgrade-your-3d-printer#/story

[bolsoncerrado]

OIC so basically a "storefront" to sell the stock... but the BBP1S is still unusable?!

[Jetguy]

I don't know that I call in completely unusable, but minimally, mildly annoying on the heated bed thing.
Given my hardware (a 3.3 Ohm or roughly 160 Watts @ 24) would work fine when configured on most other controller boards and firmware but on this current 0.91 firmware is redistricted to no more than roughly 50% on when commanded full blast tops out at roughy 75C.

The comment by the developer before the forum all but vanished was that would be an option in the next or a future firmware build.
They were pretty responsive- a good thing, and then scarily went dead silent.

Now it could be a glitch, it might be just the webpage, but it would be nice to hear something back rather than the all of nothing we have right now.
I'm just saying it doesn't look good. Might not be intentional, but should be a red flag for anyone else looking at the board or considering backing the new Indiegogo.
I'm not trying to badmouth them, but really, after getting burned on other crowdfunding projects- perception is EVERYTHING. If a person exhibits red flags, we need to be more vigilant as a community and warn others early and up front.

When you step back and look at the longer term project, it's not been without red flags. First getting called out on the source, minor delays happened, and then this.
If you were calling 3 strikes- well right there you are.

As a workaround, if using single extruder, you can use the bed and thermistor and just remember to remap your slicer gcode to output the second heater like a heated bed. It's just a number and a convention. Annoying and a a real pain, but not impossible.

And that's the problem, this board isn't "yet" some massive improvement over other firmware and control boards. Maybe one day it will be and it's actually not bad hardware, but it's also not mature and extremely well featured firmware yet either.

Being honest, I'm also HIGHLY annoyed that the source code on Github is not the latest update to even match the code in 0.91 and i question how accurate it was to 0.90. Just because there is source- if it's incorrect, outdated, or not accurate, it's about worthless.

[bolsoncerrado]

....as long as it does not require "hardcoding" of any of the chips aboard it :(

[Jetguy]

To my knowledge, nothing is hardcoded here. It's not an FPGA, or other programable logic. I think it follows the Replicape design pretty closely and does have an EEPROM on the board, but I have not read out the contents.

In the end, this is just a Beagle Bone Black and a bunch of stepper drivers and the required voltage shifting logic all on one board. It's actually not a bad board at all, a lot of my friends really like the connector layout and design choices. I knew that the firmware might not be mature when I backed it. I'd be OK with that if the developer kept responding and taking input in open and public.

The key is a 3D printer controller is 3 things and all need evaluated:
#1 the board hardware and basic design.
#2 the firmware must be mature and well tested. Internally it should follow good coding practices. Things like not using dynamic memory allocations, always initialize all variables, ensure a watchdog is running and effective, ensure error handling results in a safe state under all conditions etc.
#3 The developer must remain active an open to inputs from the community and allow members to contribute. The code should be open source and kept up to date, and the repository must be public read for branching. I get it, that not everyone should have write capabilities- branch if you want to make your own, the main branch should follow a rigorous requirements test and safety test before each release.

If any of those is lacking- ultimately, the board is no longer better than anything else out there and will fail.

[HSF]

To my knowledge, nothing is hardcoded here. It's not an FPGA, or other programable logic. I think it follows the Replicape design pretty closely and does have an EEPROM on the board, but I have not read out the contents.

In the end, this is just a Beagle Bone Black and a bunch of stepper drivers and the required voltage shifting logic all on one board. It's actually not a bad board at all, a lot of my friends really like the connector layout and design choices. I knew that the firmware might not be mature when I backed it. I'd be OK with that if the developer kept responding and taking input in open and public.

The key is a 3D printer controller is 3 things and all need evaluated:
#1 the board hardware and basic design.
#2 the firmware must be mature and well tested. Internally it should follow good coding practices. Things like not using dynamic memory allocations, always initialize all variables, ensure a watchdog is running and effective, ensure error handling results in a safe state under all conditions etc.
#3 The developer must remain active an open to inputs from the community and allow members to contribute. The code should be open source and kept up to date, and the repository must be public read for branching. I get it, that not everyone should have write capabilities- branch if you want to make your own, the main branch should follow a rigorous requirements test and safety test before each release.

If any of those is lacking- ultimately, the board is no longer better than anything else out there and will fail.


Well said.



With the exception of an onboard 5V regulator (which I have already installed, thanks for the tip!) the basic hardware design looks decent. Though we are still awaiting an LCD cape...
Firmware - well, I think you have summed that up pretty well...though there is still time for the developer to recover here.
Source control - clearly the weakest link thus far though again, recoverable if the developer makes the right moves sooner than later...


I hope to hear something from Mr. Steinkuehler (http://reprap.org/wiki/CRAMPS) about this board. I think he was a backer and is hopefully having a close look at the firmware as well. Worst case, maybe the CRAMPS firmware could be adapted to run on the BBP...

[HSF]

I don't know that I call in completely unusable, but minimally, mildly annoying on the heated bed thing.
Given my hardware (a 3.3 Ohm or roughly 160 Watts @ 24) would work fine when configured on most other controller boards and firmware but on this current 0.91 firmware is redistricted to no more than roughly 50% on when commanded full blast tops out at roughy 75C.

I haven't installed my bed or hooked up the heater but I am using a 600W 120V heater using a solid sate dc to ac relay. I'll have to see how it performs with the current config. I do have one of these on hand though that I was thinking of using for chamber heat temp control during printing or for filament drying (I am housing my reels within my chamber). Instead, I opted to just utilize the waste heat from my bed to heat the chamber and use an exhaust fan to regulate the chamber temperature. I could still use the PID controller for the bed in a pinch...

I did see some values in the firmware that could be regulated the bead heat...will have to look closer...may tweak those after a baseline check and see what happens...

[PcS]

I have this board installed on my makergear m2 and in its current form it is not usable yet. The z stage drifts badly if it moves correctly at all. I switched z to x and z perfoms as expected .No fan outputs work with any 12v fan I have . The USB connection disconnects a lot. I prefer start and end gecode in the slicer. If like me you want to actually use your printer I suggest waiting for future updates and some conformation people are having luck with it. I am debating going back to my rambo until things mature. If they ever do. I too am miffed at the forums being gone and now they are on indigogo with another round of funding for a product that is unusable at a cheaper price. I guess I will have to wait and see . One thermocouple. Bait and switch. I will say it has a lot of potential to be great. I am not sure I trust them to deliver at this point.

[HSF]

I have this board installed on my makergear m2 and in its current form it is not usable yet. The z stage drifts badly if it moves correctly at all. I switched z to x and z perfoms as expected .No fan outputs work with any 12v fan I have . The USB connection disconnects a lot. I prefer start and end gecode in the slicer. If like me you want to actually use your printer I suggest waiting for future updates and some conformation people are having luck with it. I am debating going back to my rambo until things mature. If they ever do. I too am miffed at the forums being gone and now they are on indigogo with another round of funding for a product that is unusable at a cheaper price. I guess I will have to wait and see . One thermocouple. Bait and switch. I will say it has a lot of potential to be great. I am not sure I trust them to deliver at this point.

Appreciate the data point and additional warning! I will definitely take it slow and report my findings. I have a cheap MKS v1.2 fallback board that seems to work fine - I will use it until either this board firms up or something better arrives at a reasonable price point... Agreed on the thermocouple though I don't foresee using more than one high temp material at a time so it is more of a nice to have for me (though I'm not happy that they had indicated it would be included)...

[bolsoncerrado]

I did back this board bc of their hardware design but definetly sucking the fact the software is not even ready :(

Running a second IGG campaign without even having the first product ready is a no go move :(

[PcS]

Another note in the firmware. Other than compiling from source, I don't see how to fix this with a simple setting.
https://github.com/fastbot3d/firmware/tree/master/unicorn (https://www.google.com/url?q=https%3A%2F%2Fgithub.com%2Ffastbot3d%2Ffirmw are%2Ftree%2Fmaster%2Funicorn&sa=D&sntz=1&usg=AFQjCNE6F_LU4Ogc6XP7_obmJC2t5-W9vQ)

The stepper hold settings are in parameter.h

This looks like Z hold is disabled??? But extruder hold is enabled???
What this assumes is that your Z axis has enough friction that after each layer move, the stepper is disabled (no longer locked) which could result in the Z stage moving from gravity alone in some smooth printers.



* Disables axis when it's not being used.



*/




#define DISABLE_X_EN false



#define DISABLE_Y_EN false



#define DISABLE_Z_EN true



#define DISABLE_E_EN false




This seems to be one of my problems. Looked at git hub today and it has changed to false. May have to reload software .

[Jetguy]

First, good news, the developer hit me up personally and shot me a non-public beta that I'll try to test tonight.
I'll report back more of what I know ASAP.

I don't expect this to be miracle firmware yet, but hopefully this next fix gets us to a point where a baseline is reached and we can test more and really get into printing.


I'm willing to let it slide since the developer is actively taking my inputs and advice and is being extremely responsive.
I know many of you expected it to work out of the box, but that's not always realistic.

[PcS]

Let us know . I knew going in there would be hurdles. I was able to start a print and get a few layers but the z stepper issue killed it.

[Jetguy]

Before the forum went down (didn't check to see if it's back up) the developer said the Z hold was enabled in the firmware. Now, given what I know about the M2 and some limitations in that printer, are you 100% sure you set the driver current correctly and limited speeds as required for your printer??? In my testing, I didn't see a Z problem in the actual firmware- just the original config I linked to in the github that may have not been valid for the actual firmware.

Per a series of posts by Ed http://softsolder.com/2013/04/10/makergear-m2-z-axis-stepper-motor/ (http://softsolder.com/2013/04/10/makergear-m2-z-axis-stepper-motor/) and http://softsolder.com/2013/07/02/makergear-m2-better-z-axis-motor-calculations/ (http://softsolder.com/2013/07/02/makergear-m2-better-z-axis-motor-calculations/) and http://softsolder.com/2013/06/28/makergear-m2-z-axis-stepper-motor-transplant/ (http://softsolder.com/2013/06/28/makergear-m2-z-axis-stepper-motor-transplant/)

- - - Updated - - -

Again, not trying to doubt you, but I think it might be a stepper current for Z needs set higher for your specific M2 configuration. Speed limits could also be an issue and one the stepper begins slipping/skipping, that heavy Z stage might really be marginal.

I have nothing against the M2 design, just I talk often with Ed and followed his problems and fixes. He and I go a long way back on stepper motor calcs for 3D printers.

[PcS]

If I switch z to x or y the problem goes away. It is only the z driver. And at default m2 currents it is totally useless. Which from memory I think was set to 165 . It will run a little at 800. Almost usable at 1800. I may have gotten a bad board. I personally have not had any z stage issues with my printer and respect Ed and his fixes.

[PcS]

Of another note looking at linked stuff he has a 19v m2 with the older stepper motor. Mine is 24v with the upgraded z stepper . :-)

[meetup]

Great, Let's know test result.


First, good news, the developer hit me up personally and shot me a non-public beta that I'll try to test tonight.
I'll report back more of what I know ASAP.

I don't expect this to be miracle firmware yet, but hopefully this next fix gets us to a point where a baseline is reached and we can test more and really get into printing.


I'm willing to let it slide since the developer is actively taking my inputs and advice and is being extremely responsive.
I know many of you expected it to work out of the box, but that's not always realistic.

[Jetguy]

I ran into a few minor bugs but want to share the good news, one major fix was the boot loader is updated such that it instantly kills the PWM outputs of the heaters and fans upon a reset.
Since I had problems, they are working on it today and hopefully we have this resolved and a new patch soon.

Again, very good progress as far as I'm concerned.

[PcS]

Excellent news ! Thanks for you hard work testing these things ! This helps ease my mind a little. Like I said before this will be the board to own when the software is ready. On a side note I did get one print started and it was smooth but the huge thing I noticed was how much less noise the steppers make set at 32 microstepping .

[meetup]

Jetguy, thank your testing, yes, not a bad news, They continute working on it, somethig will be fixed. I think a patch is good, like a new update feeling.
Keep focus your feedback and firmware patch.

[PcS]

Any news on a .92 patch ?

[PcS]

.92 is out have not had a chance to test it yet .

[HSF]

Testing .9.2.2 now with generally positive results (minus a few niggles which should be quite easy to fix). Waiting on G29 auto-leveling support but will report back with findings as I proceed...

[bolsoncerrado]

Which printer are you using it onto?

[PcS]

I am using it on a makergear m2. I can't use .922 as I does not let me edit change or save printer profiles. I tried it using Chrome via wifi ethernet and usb. .920 mostly works as far as getting prints started. Still cannot get bed heater above 56c .

[HSF]

Which printer are you using it onto?

I am using it on a CoreXY printer I am in the process of building (almost complete):

http://www.openbuilds.com/threads/h-bot-corexy-cube-with-fixed-build-plate.1528/page-3

[PcS]

I am using it on a CoreXY printer I am in the process of building (almost complete):

http://www.openbuilds.com/threads/h-bot-corexy-cube-with-fixed-build-plate.1528/page-3

You will need to use another board if you actually want to be able to print anything.

[HSF]

You will need to use another board if you actually want to be able to print anything.

I have a cheap MKS board that I have already had hooked up and can swap back if needed. I can also try to use Simplify3D if it just comes down to a slicing issue with the current firmware. Will report back regardless.

[PcS]

I might give it a slice in cura and try. Simplify 3d was a no go for my model. I don't hold much hope for that though.

[HSF]

I might give it a slice in cura and try. Simplify 3d was a no go for my model. I don't hold much hope for that though.

It looks like we'll have a backup if they don't get the firmware sorted out...

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1924187374/replicape-a-smart-and-quiet-3d-printer-control-boa

I would end up losing 2 steppers though from my BBP 1S though :(

But I would gain immediate Manga board availability :)

http://www.thing-printer.com/product/manga-screen/

[HSF]

First, good news, the developer hit me up personally and shot me a non-public beta that I'll try to test tonight.
I'll report back more of what I know ASAP.

I don't expect this to be miracle firmware yet, but hopefully this next fix gets us to a point where a baseline is reached and we can test more and really get into printing.


I'm willing to let it slide since the developer is actively taking my inputs and advice and is being extremely responsive.
I know many of you expected it to work out of the box, but that's not always realistic.


Are you getting any prints out with this board yet? What is the current status of your testing?

[PcS]

The Manga screen looks interesting. The biggest reason I went with a bbp over smoothie was that they were...are using marlin firmware which I get along with quite well. It is unfortunate that it is not far enough along to be usable yet.

[HSF]

Has anyone used a USB WiFi dongle with this yet and if so which one are you using? Do you know if you can use the microUSB port as well in order to have a camera and WiFi simultaneously?

[PcS]

I have used the dongle that came with my pi Rev b bundle. It works fine as far as connecting to it with phone tablet or wifi enabled laptop. I do not however see a way to add it to my existing wifi in a similar manner to a Octoprint instance running on a pi. I read you could use usb otg and wifi to enable both camera and wifi. Have not tried that.

[HSF]

I have used the dongle that came with my pi Rev b bundle. It works fine as far as connecting to it with phone tablet or wifi enabled laptop. I do not however see a way to add it to my existing wifi in a similar manner to a Octoprint instance running on a pi. I read you could use usb otg and wifi to enable both camera and wifi. Have not tried that.

Thanks! I think I may have a USB dongle from an old Pi - I'll have to look for it. I will also try it with a USB hub and the camera and see if that works. I just realized I also have a USB OTG cable so I'll give that a try as well...

[meetup]

Camera and WiFi simultaneously are used, of course it can be. BBP Wifi is wifi ap hotspot and normal wifi station.
BBP board support remote control printer through WIFI and camera. It is convenient in your phone or PAD not computer with wifi.
I search a youtube video "wifi camera octoprint work together - Fastbot BBP board".

[meetup]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CgGGcZVBEQA

[bolsoncerrado]

Well we're close to have a printer running with BBP, wohooo! :D

[HSF]

Camera and WiFi simultaneously are used, of course it can be. BBP Wifi is wifi ap hotspot and normal wifi station.
BBP board support remote control printer through WIFI and camera. It is convenient in your phone or PAD not computer with wifi.
I search a youtube video "wifi camera octoprint work together - Fastbot BBP board".

Yes, I had assumed that WiFi and camera would work simultaneously via a USB hub. What I was most interested in finding out was if I could use the microUSB port for either the WiFi or camera so that a USB hub was not necessary (i.e. whether both ports were equally capable of supporting powered USB host) as I would like to avoid the use of an additional device if it is unnecessary.

[meetup]

I thnk it cann't. If possible, they will use micro USB for camera or wifi.
An additional device - usb hub will be necessary.

[PcS]

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6Rin2urJZxvcUNNdW1rQ1F1djg/view?usp=docslist_api

Link to my makergear m2 printing from fastbot bbp1s .
Still have some tweaking to do but it is getting very close.

[bolsoncerrado]

Nnnnnnnnnneat!!!

What printing surface is that btw?

[PcS]

One quarter inch thick aluminum plate milled perfectly flat.

[bolsoncerrado]

And u dont use anything in between the filament? and sticks/unsticks trouble-free?

[PcS]

I use Garnier fructise extreme hold hairspray ...number 5. It works for everything. I should mention the aluminum plate has been sanded to give it some grooves to grab. Or it can be bead blasted. I found pei works the best ...but I could never get it glued down flat enough. This thing is super flat and does not change any noticeable amount when heat and hold very stable temps....takes a little longer to heat though not really that much more than the original borosilicate plate.Biggest drawback is the added weight. Had to slow y axis down a bit to keep from missing steps. I am going to try just a one eight inch thick plate with heater right on the bottom to reduce mass.

[HSF]

I use Garnier fructise extreme hold hairspray ...number 5. It works for everything. I should mention the aluminum plate has been sanded to give it some grooves to grab. Or it can be bead blasted. I found pei works the best ...but I could never get it glued down flat enough. This thing is super flat and does not change any noticeable amount when heat and hold very stable temps....takes a little longer to heat though not really that much more than the original borosilicate plate.Biggest drawback is the added weight. Had to slow y axis down a bit to keep from missing steps. I am going to try just a one eight inch thick plate with heater right on the bottom to reduce mass.

Awesome! I assume you are using firmware v.922?

When you say it works for 'everything', what does that include (e.g. PLA, ABS, PETT, PETG, NYLON, HIPS, Ninjaflex, etc.)?

I had planned to use PEI (which I have already purchased) but am happy to consider alternatives if it works better. I have a 7mm heated aluminum plate and have glass, PEI, and garolyte plates I had planned to clip to it for printing various materials and/or desired bottom surface finishes. My build plate is fixed so I don't have the same mass issue constraining Y axis speed. I am almost ready to button up my printer and will be ecstatic if the current firmware is reliable enough to proceed!

[PcS]

It is and yes .922 is what I'm running. Very happy with it . Auto level supposed to come in
93 next week. And yes all those plastics work with the hairspray on aluminum . Some even stick without it .

[meetup]

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6Rin2urJZxvcUNNdW1rQ1F1djg/view?usp=docslist_api

Link to my makergear m2 printing from fastbot bbp1s .
Still have some tweaking to do but it is getting very close.

Neat, It's not bad, BBP board print is ok.

[UriValle]

It is looking that the problem is the board is not self powered standalone.
According to me the logic side either requires USB or the standard 2.1mm round coaxial power jack 5V.
There are 2 through holes on the board labeled ground and 5V. That pair is directly in parallel with the round 5V logic input.
Pretty sure they used the standard USB power switch setup to prevent backfeeding up USB.

[HSF]

It is looking that the problem is the board is not self powered standalone.
According to me the logic side either requires USB or the standard 2.1mm round coaxial power jack 5V.
There are 2 through holes on the board labeled ground and 5V. That pair is directly in parallel with the round 5V logic input.
Pretty sure they used the standard USB power switch setup to prevent backfeeding up USB.

I performed the same mod as Jetguy (Thanks Jetguy!) which seems to be working quite swimmingly:
http://www.print3dforum.com/showthread.php/601-First-FastBot-BBP-1S-3D-Printer-Controller-Board-Unboxing-pics?p=17529&viewfull=1#post17529

I finally finished all of the hardware work on my printer and will hopefully try a print this weekend (though I am patiently awaiting v.0.93 auto-leveling support)..

[stf]

Hi! Was just wondering if anyone had a chance to print with it? If yes, what are the performance gains? I've read it's compatible with any kind of printers, is that true? Got a makerbot replicator 1 and a wanhao i3.

[bolsoncerrado]

Apparently it is. I have yet to start with it too.

[Zuxztah]

Is there anyone who is able to print with this board yet? I got one and I've been trying all day to get it to print but it's living it's own life?

20x20mm cube print test
http://imgur.com/6TPkRYG

I need a board for 6 steppers due to dual Z motors and dual extruder motors? Is there any other board available?

[scitech_india]

Again, you have to know every single component of your printer because you have to enter those specifications into the firmware of the new controller.
You have to know the wiring of your printer and how to connect it.
You have to know the steps per mm of each axis including the extruder
You have to know where your limit switches are located and how they are wired (normally open or normally closed)
You need to the voltage levels of the endstops if they are optical or magnetic because they could fry the new board if the wrong voltage.
You need to know axis lengths
You have to know what temp sensors your current printer uses and how they are wired.
You have to ensure you know the voltages and wiring of all the fans and LEDS in your printer.
You have to know the power supply and any other special wiring.
hi i have read your mentioning :)
please can you help how i can adjust the parameters of the my printer i have some issues
i have Geeetech prusa i3 pro B model with me please help me to get it work
it's have lot's of issues like auto home is not working i mean the end stoppers are not working :(
how i could change the parameters

[Whary1950]

Thanks for useful unboxing photos, this printer looks good. Could you advice it and also could write its pros and cons, please?