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AngryPanda
03-02-2016, 01:00 AM
Hello All,

I figured since more and more of us have the Morpheus up and running, (or are trying to do so..:p) as we have technical questions or need help troubleshooting things, lets have a thread just for that. It might make it easier to find answers to questions we all might have, (and to share answers that one of us might know!)

AngryPanda
03-02-2016, 01:07 AM
LED'S WONT TURN OFF???

Hello all, I have run in to an issue that if I manually stop a print, (from either testing, calibrating cure times, or if a print failed and i need to restart), the UV LED's never turn off. Does anyone else have this problem? Does anyone know of a manual way to shut off the LED banks? (Other than restating the whole printer?)
I cant seem to figure it out..

AngryPanda
03-02-2016, 01:18 AM
LED'S WONT TURN OFF???

Hello all, I have run in to an issue that if I manually stop a print, (from either testing, calibrating cure times, or if a print failed and i need to restart), the UV LED's never turn off. Does anyone else have this problem? Does anyone know of a manual way to shut off the LED banks? (Other than restating the whole printer?)
I cant seem to figure it out..

So I contacted TOW and the answer was "There is no way to "turn off the LED manually".. But the trick they gave me was:
1: start a print in CW like you normally would, (engages the LED's, LCD Slice, and Zlift),
2: Wait for the next Z-lift movement between slices, (THE LED BANK TURNS OFF),
3: Press the STOP print button in CW.
At this point the LED's stay off. *note if you press STOP while it's trying to cure a slice.. the LED's will stay on*.

bolsoncerrado
03-02-2016, 03:18 PM
Yes they explained the trick while they were here.... Only press STOP while printing when the Z moves, so the UV leds are off while Z moves. Then the UV leds will be off if you cancel a print.

THere should be a "Terminal Window" in the next software version so we can force Turn LEDs off manually somehow!

Nice thread idea btw.

For now, what I think it urges us the most is to find the correct settings for each resolution we want to print with, for each resin!

AngryPanda
03-14-2016, 09:42 PM
So I had an interesting thing happen. I went to begin a new print, and dropped the Z-axis down so that I could put in my build plate. I accidentally pushed the -50 when it was to low already, the Z steppers bottomed out (since there is no end stop) and made the ever-so-popular unhappy Stepper vibration noise until I turned it off. Once I reset the machine, and tried to lift the Z-axis, only one side would move up and the other continued to make the loud vibration. So now only one side was moving and the other just stayed, thus my Morpheus was no longer happy or usable in its current condition. I tried several different programs to manually move it up, but to no avail. The only way I was able to get everything re-set was I had to open up the back of the box, pull off the stepper cables, and put the "stuck" stepper cable onto the other set of pins (for the dual Z ports on the RAMPS board.) I reset it that way, and was able to move the "stuck" stepper back up.
I tested this scenario again, just to see if I would repeat both the problem and my fix, and it happened/worked again.
Not sure if this was the "right" way to do this, but it seemed to yield the right result. If any of you have had this issue, what did you do to fix it?
Once I got everything reset back the way it should be, I manually lowered the Z-axis -1 at at time until it hit bottom, then went up +1. Then I added 2 pieces of tape right below it, so I had a visual mark to know when to stop. I plan on ordering some end stops for this so I can avoid the problem in the future.

Just wanted to post this one since it happened to me twice.. Hope it can help someone.. And if someone has an easier fix, please post here for all!

------ADDED NOTE----- MAKE SURE YOU DISCONNECT BOTH POWER AND USB BEFORE ATTEMPTING THIS OR YOU CAN FRY YOUR BOARDS!!!----

woale
03-15-2016, 01:28 AM
LED'S WONT TURN OFF???

Hello all, I have run in to an issue that if I manually stop a print, (from either testing, calibrating cure times, or if a print failed and i need to restart), the UV LED's never turn off. Does anyone else have this problem? Does anyone know of a manual way to shut off the LED banks? (Other than restating the whole printer?)
I cant seem to figure it out..

With a Gcode terminal, the LEDs can be turned of via command: M107

bolsoncerrado
03-15-2016, 11:20 AM
nanoDLP to the rescue!!! :D


Scary stuff, Angrypanda!

Indeed a couple simple endstops should do the job and just cut the steppers current. Too weird TOW didnt install them in this version, i guess they're reserving them for the commercial version of the machine.

jfornies
03-27-2016, 10:43 AM
Hello All, I am another recent owner of the Morpheus and still trying to get a proper print with it. My issue is that I try to print large figures and so far only few of them are decent. I tried several setups and resins and so far marginal improvements so I will continue after using already 4 litres of resin. Some things I did learn about it.
1) don't clean your film with isopropyl alcohol, if there's a small defect (and is very probable that you will end having one) the alcohol will split a part the two layers in the film and then no more printing until you get a spare one (I am one of the lucky ones that got more than one)
2) calibrate your tray and the platform without the resin. Even if the morpheus looks calibrated the tray is not even and there're marginal differences (also produced by the different pressure on the screws) that will make your tray not to be calibrated
3) clear resin seems to work better than the coloured ones. Definitely there's a better result with clear<white>black resins. The LED intensity may have something to do with it, not sure but that's my observation after testing those from makerjuice+ and funtodo (btw funtodo provided better results)
4) be sure that your led is centred with the LCD, something again silly but mine wasn't and that made the prints on the back of the morpheus to fail all the time
5) check if your platform is centred or at least covered by the LCD. Mine wasn't again and the final part of the platform wasn't printing so the effective building plate was smaller.

What I still didn't solve:
1) the stickiness of the film, is still a problem for me and I can hear all the time the tray trying to move up with the print (all my morpheus is full of tape to fix the tray to the printer) - something for the morpheus team to improve
2) not homogeneous printing when I try to repeat the same figure several times across all the platform - This is something I Can't explain nor even find a reason why but apparently I get better prints in the front part of the morpheus and the worse are the far back of the building plate. I did calibrate and re-calibrate and there's no distance between the film and the lcd that is apparently different so not a clue about what to do.

Anyway, a long post but hope is somehow useful and maybe someone could suggest some solutions for my current problems.

Thanks a lot

Jf

sukhvir
03-27-2016, 11:36 AM
Thanks for joining the forum and also for your update jfornies. I think I had the same problem with my first film where I cleaned it with IPA and it seeped through a minor hole between the films. With regards to the stickiness of the film, I think this is a standard issue for ALL resin printers that work this way. Every layer is a fight between the build plate and the film to see which is holding it stronger. If you watch other videos of other printers printing, their vat also jumps up and down.

Can you post some photos showing us how different the prints are from the front and back of the plate? Might be easier to come up with a solution.

bolsoncerrado
03-27-2016, 01:57 PM
I also noticed the "suck up" effect with the FTD resin (not with the MJ+ one) of the VAT towards the plate... I guess we would need to add some pressure manually for the first layers until the printing is already a bit raised from the vat, not needed all the time I guess... Some sort of hardware workaround should definetly be applied on this for more viscose resins like the FTD.

jfornies could you expand on the process on how to properly calibrate the plate and the vat?? I'm really curious now as I didnt do anything on that side of things and TOW neither!


Also, does any1 know of CLEAR resin sellers? ie. "glass clear" resin, not white/black/colorless....

jfornies
03-29-2016, 02:23 AM
I did calibrate the Morpheus putting the level on the tray and not on the Morpheus, I found considerable differences due to the tape that they put to push up the lcd and that makes the lcd not to be totally flat even when the Morpheus is flat. My recommendation is to calibrate the Morpheus assuring the Lcd and the resin tray are flat. Trick: put a bit of resin and wait for the gravity to act. My Morpheus was in theory fully calibrated but when I put the resin all the resin was going to one side of the tray. Now when I put the level in my Morpheus I have differences between 0.8 to -0.6 degrees but in the platform only 0.1 to 0.2 and the resin is evenly flat everywhere.

Now, I have good news. I tried a water rinsable resin (totally clear) and the results are by faaaaaaaarrrr the best!!! Printed 18 figures across all the building platform and all were perfect at 40s 8 layers and the rest at 20 seconds and 0.2mm. The print at 0.2 mm was flying and in 3 hours I had a nice figure perfect in all the ways and water rinsable!! The adherence was perfect and I saw practically no movements on the tray due to adherence in the plastic, and these are 18 figures pushing up!! The resin also has practically no odor and well the bad news is that a beauty like this costs like liquid gold but definitely for me it's worth after so many failures. I'm happy again! Photos later.

bolsoncerrado
03-29-2016, 07:29 AM
...and a link to such resin! hehe

dada print
03-29-2016, 08:04 AM
Full Spectrum Laser has a water soluble resin that they offer with their Titan SLA printers. Could be similar resin?

The other is Photocentric in the UK. That resin is amber in colour. Uses normal spectrum light to cure (daylight).

Could be something else. I am looking for reliable resin with the Morpheus. Horrible experiences so far with MakerJuice.

bolsoncerrado
03-29-2016, 08:39 AM
Yes I wonder how can TOW work so fine with MJ+!!! :(

Photocentric and other daylight / water resins are "non UV" curable, so I wonder why they work "so well" with Morpheus lol

dada print
03-29-2016, 08:59 AM
Daylight curable resin. Daylight contains UV no?

Not sure why it works if it is non-UV curable.

jfornies
03-29-2016, 09:21 AM
Yes it's the full spectrum resin, totally clear and wonderful :)

bolsoncerrado
03-29-2016, 02:39 PM
I'll have to order some Photocentric bottles to test.... :P

maquantz
03-30-2016, 01:50 AM
Hello again....many reports of poor and failed prints. Very different than what was portrayed on Kickstarter. Can anyone please tell me if their Morpheus is working the way it was advertised? Thanks

Sent from my LG-H812 using Tapatalk

bolsoncerrado
03-30-2016, 06:45 AM
Check the "Successful prints" thread instead.

manbogi91
03-30-2016, 10:36 PM
Guys, I am having a repetitive issues with creation workshop(1.0.0.75). The program gets frozen in the middle of printing -timing's vary, between 10 to 70%. As a result, printer keeps running while the same area is being cured.
Since I have received the Morpheus, I have not managed to finish a single print yet because of the same problem. My computer has windows 10 with i7 core, 16gb ram and the models I have been printing were fairly simple, so I don't think the issue is either with my computer or the complexity of the model. Does anyone have suffered with the same issue? I desperately need advise from the fellow users..

sukhvir
03-30-2016, 10:45 PM
Guys, I am having a repetitive issues with creation workshop(1.0.0.75). The program gets frozen in the middle of printing -timing's vary, between 10 to 70%. As a result, printer keeps running while the same area is being cured.
Since I have received the Morpheus, I have not managed to finish a single print yet because of the same problem. My computer has windows 10 with i7 core, 16gb ram and the models I have been printing were fairly simple, so I don't think the issue is either with my computer or the complexity of the model. Does anyone have suffered with the same issue? I desperately need advise from the fellow users..

Hi manbogi91. This is not a problem I have come across, however don't think it has anything to do with the Morpheus. It is essentially just acting like a monitor plugged into your computer, so shouldn't affect the running of creation workshop. Not sure if anyone else has come across this, however I think the reason lies elsewhere. I could be wrong though.

manbogi91
03-30-2016, 11:40 PM
Hi sukhvir, many thanks for the response. A friend of mine just have suggested that the problem could have been caused by hard disk power saving mode which I realised, is set at 20 minutes as a default. I will try another print tomorrow with this solution and post an update. Good night :)

bolsoncerrado
03-31-2016, 09:00 AM
Yes, that might be the issue. Also it could be faulty USB connections (usb wire, bad USB port) try switching ports and/or wires. Last attempt would be try another computer and same software to discard issues with the computer itself. WIndows 7 works for sure, so try downgrading also as last solution.

manbogi91
03-31-2016, 09:27 AM
You are right, USB cable could be the problem as I use 5m USB extension cable (with a signal booster attached) between Morpheus and computer.
Seems that I need to get rid of the extension cable and downgrade my OS to 7 before the another try..

Many thanks for the advise :)

bolsoncerrado
03-31-2016, 09:36 AM
The shorter the cable between the computer and the Morpheus the better, and even better if they have ferrite shields in it.

sukhvir
03-31-2016, 10:27 AM
I can also confirm that windows 10 works perfectly well for me. Fortunately, I've not had any software issues thus far.

bolsoncerrado
04-01-2016, 03:37 PM
OK today I went to try once more with the FTD resin and found out a weird issue!?

The monitor on the Morpheus is getting fully lit when I launch the print instead of just the section (slice) it's supposed to cure, not only that but also in a pale tone instead of the intense UV light that will cure the resin...

The monitor is detected fine on Windows and the software enables (obviously) the lights fine on the Morpheus but the image won't "appear" on the Morpheus LCD.... but instead a fully (partiallly dimmed) light comes from the monitor.... Any clues???

Thanks!

bolsoncerrado
04-01-2016, 04:15 PM
Well just realized its the actual "image" of the monitor, ie I can see the slice and if i drag the CWS windows on the "extended desktop" to the Morpheus monitor, I can see thru it, but of course the dimm effect is not curing the resin, like if the software is not sending the appropiate commands to enter the "filter mode" for the Morpheus on the monitor to "block" the non UV part of the black slice :(

sukhvir
04-02-2016, 04:01 PM
I'm not sure if I had a similar issue, however I had mistakenly closed the DLP screen on CW and it ended up sending blanks that didn't cute to the Morpheus. Not sure if I restarted Morpheus or the laptop but when I restarted CW, the DLP screen was back (minimised) and everything was ok again.

bolsoncerrado
04-02-2016, 06:43 PM
I tried all sort of reboots, resets, reconnections and everything I could think of but no luck yet...

bolsoncerrado
04-05-2016, 09:10 AM
OK TOW to the rescue, it was some sort of unknown CWS setting that got changed somehow (?!?!?!) as I never knew there was such menu!

Under File -> Preferences you can set up a Foreground and Background colors. NEVER CHANGE THEM from anything else than WHITE AND BLACK, like this:

http://i.imgur.com/SrK7Ghu.png


I'm now back to the road.

noovi
04-18-2016, 06:49 AM
Are there supposed to be heatsinks on the UV LED drivers? My UV LED board has thermal pads on all the drivers but no heatsinks...

Brickmaker
04-27-2016, 07:18 AM
i have removed the metal around the LCD screen and have switched to the FTD resin. I can get my prints to stick to the print bed but I am not able to get other layers to stick. My base layer exposure is 50 and other layers is 30. Any help would be great. Thanks

sukhvir
04-27-2016, 07:40 AM
Hi @Brickmaker. Can you be more specific? How many layers are you getting to stick to the print bed? Is it only the base layers? Also, the exposure time for FTD resin is 50 seconds for base layers (3 to 5 layers), then around 10 seconds for the rest.

bolsoncerrado
04-27-2016, 08:18 AM
Welcome @Brickmaker! I'm also curious on what your issue is.

Brickmaker
04-27-2016, 08:40 AM
@sukhvir I have attached a picture of my settings. 1440 I have been able to get 40 of 85 layers to stick. Any help would be great. Also if you would like me to move this to the Troubleshooting page I can. Thanks

sukhvir
04-27-2016, 08:50 AM
@Brickmaker, see my settings attached. I have never used anti-aliasing, so I'm not sure if that is part of the issue. Also, put your slide/Tilt value to 0 then click on AutoCalc. Can you put up a pic/stl (or send it to me) of what you are trying to print? There could be issues with your model.
1441

sukhvir
04-27-2016, 08:51 AM
I have moved the above post to the Troubleshooting thread :D

bolsoncerrado
04-27-2016, 08:59 AM
Hmmmm now that you mention it, I think I also had antialiasing enabled as per TOW visit... hmmm

sukhvir
04-27-2016, 09:05 AM
I don't think the anti-aliasing would cause too much of a problem - it would just add/remove a few pixels to give a smoother print, however I personally don't think it's worth having on and always print without it. I think Brickmaker's issues may be related to length of exposure or poor supports on model.

bolsoncerrado
04-27-2016, 10:33 AM
Aren't you trying nanodlp yourself sukhvir?

sukhvir
04-27-2016, 10:46 AM
I set it up a couple of weeks ago @bolsoncerrado, however had issues with it displaying layers. I'll give it another go soon, but am currently working on the dual vat build. Is anyone else going to attempt a dual vat system?

AngryPanda
06-08-2016, 08:50 PM
I set it up a couple of weeks ago @bolsoncerrado, however had issues with it displaying layers. I'll give it another go soon, but am currently working on the dual vat build. Is anyone else going to attempt a dual vat system?
Attempting a smaller single vat.. wish me luck [emoji6]

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

bolsoncerrado
06-09-2016, 08:26 AM
@sukhvir I had to move nanodlp SD card to a Raspi2 as I had HDMI issues with a Raspi3 with 6 HDMI cables I tested. All of them blanked out after a while. But the one I tested worked fine with the Raspi2 since minute 0.

Either a deffective Raspi3 or an incompatibility with nanoDLP and Raspi3 code :???

AngryPanda
06-15-2016, 10:15 PM
@bolsoncerrado, So the screen just "blanks".. after a while?.. Can you elaborate a bit? .. After I get my new vat finished, the next step was Rpi3 and Nano... I also have a Rpi2.. May just go with that if there's problems with 3..

@Sukvir, Do you have yours up and running with Nano?

bolsoncerrado
06-16-2016, 09:07 AM
yeah after a given amount of minutes, 2 or 3, you no longer get input from the pi hdmi no matter what. sometimes not even after fresh boot up.

I'm printing now from pi2 eversince and hassle free. dunno if it was my pi or an issue with Nano but I guess if it was the later, someone else would have complained already.... or not. May be it's just this specific hardware (monitor).

AngryPanda
06-16-2016, 09:58 AM
Are you liking running from Nano?

bolsoncerrado
06-16-2016, 01:42 PM
Definetly, nth times better than a laptop+CWS combo!!

You dont burn a laptop display + computer cycles + having to loose a computer as it has to remain untouched as the print goes
You can put the raspi inside the Morpheus and have a single solution all-in-one remote controllable (even adding a webcam in it)
nanoDLP accepts STLs (CWS only opens OBJs)
nanoDLP slices on the go (you can start printing already without waiting for the slicing to finish)
nanoDLP allows pixel diming now
and much more to come, I think ;)

sukhvir
06-17-2016, 10:46 AM
Hi all and sorry @AngryPanda for late reply. We have our Kickstarter campaign kicking off next week so have been really busy getting things in place for that.

My dual vat system is ready to run but the frame for it is a bit big and I haven't had time to take it to get it cut (it's a thick piece of acrylic). Hoping to get this done at some point next week and I'll keep you posted.

In the meantime, here's a small teaser video and I'd appreciate if you could help to spread the word about the campaign. The computer has all been 3D printed by the way :)





https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLX_pdqRxBI

bolsoncerrado
06-17-2016, 01:51 PM
Best of lucks with that, @sukhvir!

You should program a Thunderclap for it too :D

sukhvir
06-17-2016, 02:16 PM
Great idea @bolsoncerrado. I've never done one before but will have a bash.

acnow
07-22-2016, 08:50 PM
Hi Guys: has anyone spilled resin on the monitor.. What could I use to remove the resin without damaging the monitor?

bolsoncerrado
07-23-2016, 06:39 PM
I used a cutter knife blade to carefully peel it from the monitor...

Jao
09-08-2016, 09:12 PM
Hey guys

So for some reason CW doesn't move my build plate up and down anymore. Just nothing happens when I try to manually control it.
The screen still connects fine and my computer still picks up the arduino, but no movement from the motors.

I redid the profile with the Gcode just in case, reloaded the arduino drivers and nothing happens.

Anyone else have this problem?

Best

J

bolsoncerrado
09-08-2016, 09:18 PM
Did you try a different computer? different USB cable? different USB port?

Jao
09-08-2016, 09:32 PM
Yep. All of the above.

bolsoncerrado
09-09-2016, 01:30 PM
Yikes! Perhaps a problem with the mosfet? Did you check wiring inside the printer?

AngryPanda
09-17-2016, 08:07 PM
@Jao,
I ran into something similar when I was trying to setup my endstop. I accidentally bumped my Z- Stepper cable knocking it loose. When I realized what I did, I plugged it back in. Unfortunately I was not paying attention amd did so while everything was still powered on. I FRIED MY STEPPER CONTROLLER!! (Note to noobs like me.. do NOT remove or plug in stepper motor cables while power is applied. It does evil things)
I didn't realize I had fried the controller. My symptoms were the same as what you described. All worked but the Z lift. I replaced the stepper controller on the arduino and all started to work again!!

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Jao
09-29-2016, 08:32 AM
Hi AngryPanda

Which one is the z-Stepper cable and what does the stepper controller look like? Is it a hard thing to find and replace?

How could I test if this is indeed the problem?

I wish that I could get some customer support from OWL.

I finally figured out a way to print large objects utilizing the whole build platform using free software. I would love to share my findings with the community but
I need to get the big red paperweight working again first.

Best

J

karthik.pdy
09-30-2016, 10:42 AM
hi Joe

which software ??

karthik.pdy
10-19-2016, 12:39 PM
Hi AngryPanda

Which one is the z-Stepper cable and what does the stepper controller look like? Is it a hard thing to find and replace?

How could I test if this is indeed the problem?

I wish that I could get some customer support from OWL.

I finally figured out a way to print large objects utilizing the whole build platform using free software. I would love to share my findings with the community but
I need to get the big red paperweight working again first.

Best

J



Hi Jao

can you share us about the software, I am looking curious to try

karthik.pdy
12-23-2016, 07:34 PM
Hi guys

I just installed the printer, but the display and LED not responding. I use PC with Windows 7, I use DVI to VGA adapter to connect with Morpheus. when I start a print led only blinks that's all, nothing has happening but Z axis is working. kindly give your suggestions

acnow
12-23-2016, 08:36 PM
Hi guys

I just installed the printer, but the display and LED not responding. I use PC with Windows 7, I use DVI to VGA adapter to connect with Morpheus. when I start a print led only blinks that's all, nothing has happening but Z axis is working. kindly give your suggestions
If that problem continues you should contact the company.. Your LED display could have gotten damaged during the shipping process.. They should have direct instructions on how to do that testing part to rule that out

karthik.pdy
12-23-2016, 10:03 PM
Can anyone guide me how to install aurduino, when I plugged USB it's automatically detected it's okay or not ?

acnow
12-23-2016, 11:41 PM
Can anyone guide me how to install aurduino, when I plugged USB it's automatically detected it's okay or not ?
Did you receive link to the Youtube videos on how to install everything? If you followed instructions there then you should not have any problem.
My recommendation to you is this:
Restart your laptop.. then from your software try to print something (without resin)..
and look at the printer led panel to see if you see the layers there.. (make sure that you see each layer for 20-25 minutes).. If you see all the layers in led panel then you should be fine.. If you see screen blinking or layers don't show up then your led monitor could be damaged..
PS: use appropriate glasses for uv light so that you don't damage your eyes

acnow
12-23-2016, 11:47 PM
PS: here are the links: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6c4kRoddrVE&feature=em-share_video_user
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S-o82Ivpvgc&feature=em-share_video_user
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Snth1KIFacQ&feature=em-share_video_user
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4uBFKWAn1IQ&feature=em-share_video_user

sukhvir
12-24-2016, 12:15 AM
Does your laptop not have HDMI? Not sure why you would want to use DVI to VGA. I don't think an analogue VGA signal will be as clean as a digital one. Try DVI to DVI or HDMI to HDMI.

karthik.pdy
12-30-2016, 10:14 AM
Hi Every one, Happy new year to all
I have a doubt :confused: why we should not replace with a Solid VAT with PDMS coating
share your suggestion/ideas !!!

sukhvir
12-30-2016, 10:59 AM
I've not used a printer with PDMS coating, however I assume that the peeling process is a bit better with the PDMS coating. The difference comes down to cost. The film layer on the Morpheus will last far longer and doesn't really become cloudy over long term use. I have printed with 6 litres using the same film. PDMS needs to be replaced after using 2 litres as it will become cloudy and degrade the prints, making the whole process very expensive.

bolsoncerrado
12-30-2016, 11:18 AM
@karthik.pdy where did you get the morpheus resin? at which price?

karthik.pdy
12-30-2016, 12:26 PM
@karthik.pdy where did you get the morpheus resin? at which price?

I got it from Owl Works only with machine, price I let you know or you can ask Mr.SJ park

karthik.pdy
01-02-2017, 11:37 AM
Hi, everyone happy new year 😁 How are you disposing the supports , rejected products and waste resin

karthik.pdy
02-03-2017, 12:37 PM
@karthik.pdy where did you get the morpheus resin? at which price?

Price is 69$/1L, MOQ 4 liters (white, blue, Red & Black available)

Ddas
03-08-2017, 05:19 AM
Hi everyone, so somehow the film for my resin tray was perforated by the build plate, and leaked some resin onto the LCD screen. Since cleaning it up the LCD screen will not make any layer images. the UV LEDs come on, but no layer image... any idea how to fix this...?

bolsoncerrado
03-08-2017, 09:26 AM
Same boat here, still awaiting TOW response for the last MONTHS :(

Keep me posted if you hear from them. However mine didnt came from a leakage.

I suspect we were booked with faulty LCD panels or something. I recall someone here got his replaced by TOW too...

karthik.pdy
04-29-2017, 12:25 PM
Hi everyone, so somehow the film for my resin tray was perforated by the build plate, and leaked some resin onto the LCD screen. Since cleaning it up the LCD screen will not make any layer images. the UV LEDs come on, but no layer image... any idea how to fix this...?

I had a same incident but very few droplets. soak clean cotton cloth in IPA and wet the area which has cured resin, after seconds rub with little pressure (don't damage the screen ) to take it.
Repeat it until all came out...