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sukhvir
03-24-2016, 09:35 AM
After many trials and tribulations, I finally have managed to get a successful print. Having tried various techniques, I have hopefully found some that can alleviate the problems we have been having. I'll post my findings later after trying more prints but here are some pictures attached :cool:

13781379138013811382

bolsoncerrado
03-24-2016, 10:45 AM
Nice work!

What the heck is it btw? :D

sukhvir
03-24-2016, 11:50 AM
It's actually for a product we are about to launch. My friend and I have started a new business and part of the reason I bought the Morpheus was to get better quality prototypes than I have been getting with FDM. We have made a computer for kids to teach them about programming and electronics. You can see more info on www.thisisada.com

Incidentally, we are also launching a Kickstarter campaign next month :)

bolsoncerrado
03-24-2016, 01:30 PM
Very nice!!!

Best of lucks! Count me in if you need help with the "community" part ;)

AngryPanda
03-24-2016, 09:46 PM
Thanks for posting a SUCCESSFUL PRINT!!! HOOORAAAAYYYY!!!

bolsoncerrado
03-25-2016, 11:42 AM
BTW how many microns did you use on that one?

sukhvir
03-25-2016, 01:06 PM
I printed it at 70 microns. That is the maximum recommended by FTD resins for this kind of printer. 5 layers at 50s exposure, then 13s exposure for the rest of the layers. The biggest issue is the supports and to be honest, through all the research I have done, the software is pretty poor at generating supports that are useful. Meshmixer comes close, but it is better to add them manually. My support tip diameter is 0.6mm, however will try and reduce this in future prints. I added a perforated edge in my CAD package to try and retain as straight an edge as possible, then added further supports manually using meshmixer and CW.

What problems are you having @bolsoncerrado? Also, I appreciate your offer of helping us out with the community side for our Kickstarter project and any help would be appreciated. I'll get back to you regarding this.

To be honest, I hate uncertainty and I am trying to work out a sequence of events that I can use to give me successful prints every time. The laser pointer is one of those and I am trying to work a better way to level the bed (that's why I asked @bolsoncerrado the question about the amount of pressure applied to the platform). If too much pressure is applied to one sire, the print is squashed at one side and lop-sided.

I will post all my findings and tips shortly once I have completed my tests (having wasted tons of good resin)

sukhvir
04-01-2016, 10:10 AM
Hi all,

I'm pleased to post another successful print :cool:

Printed at 70 microns using FTD resin with exposure time of 11 seconds. This was printed with NO BASE and NO SUPPORTS.

It has taken me a LOT of time and learning to get here and I have had to make some hardware modifications to my Morpheus, but nothing that is complicated or technical so can easily be done by everyone else. I am happy to share, however would like to share my findings with TOW first to compare notes and see the issues they are having. It means I now have a technique for getting good prints without much effort.

1391139213931394

bolsoncerrado
04-01-2016, 10:27 AM
Glad we're getting there!!!

Hopefully you can share some knowledge soon!!!

sukhvir
04-06-2016, 01:57 PM
I don't know whether or not to be worried that nobody else is posting in this thread. Has anyone else had good prints from their Morpheus?

I am sharing a couple more and will start a new thread tonight showing what changes I made to my printer to get these.

139713981399

bolsoncerrado
04-06-2016, 02:00 PM
These are impressive man! Specially the sphere!

Yeah go on and help us because i'm about to burn the darn thing! :(

AngryPanda
04-06-2016, 08:48 PM
I have shot any/all of my print fails over to TOW, along with files, settings used, results.. Etc.
I finally heard back from them. The were actually being diligent and testing out all of the files I sent multiple times. (They actually emailed me pix of their prints resulting in failure as well.)
They changed the resin from MJ+ to another kind and for successful prints. (Also included pix)
They used a local (to Korea) brand of resin and got results. They seemed very upset about the failures we are all having with MJ+ as they got the same results. Hinted that there might be a quality problem, as there were very mixed results I. Their testing. (Diff colors, prints, etc.. All resulting in the same end we've had)

Bass on that finding, I'm going to test different resins now (including the one that gave you a successful set of prints above) and will post my results!

sukhvir
04-06-2016, 09:10 PM
TOW told me a few days ago that they now realise that MJ resin of very poor quality. They are testing with FTD and are hoping to get better results. Please see the new thread I posted about the modifications I made to my Morpheus.

AngryPanda
04-06-2016, 09:26 PM
Thanks sukhvir, where did you post it?

sukhvir
04-06-2016, 09:28 PM
Sorry, Give me 30 Minutes. I'm writing something with it before I post it. It will appear as a new thread - Morpheus Modifications

AngryPanda
04-06-2016, 09:28 PM
Anxiously waiting! Lol [emoji16]

sukhvir
04-06-2016, 10:18 PM
Post is now up everyone, so feel free to read and watch the video (video still uploading at the moment). Here is another print to show in this forum (larger in size)
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bolsoncerrado
04-07-2016, 03:07 PM
I'm wondering if a purchase made within EU can be returned (unopened, of course) for a refund alleguing "bad quality" of the product.... anyone?

It seems clear MJ is now the suckness of our issues mixed with a few hardware issues as wel... HOWEVER all the kickstarter tests they (TOW) ran were made with MJ, right!??!

sukhvir
04-07-2016, 07:22 PM
I'm not sure if they would refund you on that basis, even though it is not fit for purpose. Their G+ is of poor quality, however their SF is meant to be better. If they don't refund it, maybe ask if they will swap it for SF resin.

acnow
04-22-2016, 01:10 PM
resin.
@sukhvir I wonder what was the settings you used to print with the white fun resin you used in the prints on top and are the results to your liking -will you be using those prints for your campaign on kickstarter? Thanks in advance!

sukhvir
04-22-2016, 10:45 PM
@acnow I am really happy with the results and we will be using the parts we print in the video. The settings are:

3 base layers @50s exposure
rest of layers are 11s exposure

I also raise the platform 20mm, rather than the default 10mm.

acnow
05-25-2016, 02:49 AM
A few months later and only one user has posted successful prints here.. It is very alarming!! Can someone else share any new print?

sukhvir
05-25-2016, 02:46 PM
I think people have been printing successfully but just haven't shared. Have you any prints of your own @acnow you could upload?

acnow
05-25-2016, 03:13 PM
All my prints failed with the traditional laptop hooked to the Morpheous printer (that along was about two months of struggle). It took me around two months between getting the materials to fix the Vat, getting the right resin, a new film since I damaged the first one, plus the raspberry pi with all the cables/requirements and right now I am in the process of installing the nano dlp. But I realized yesterday that I have to buy a new router since the one I have doesn't allow ip configuration... It has been quite a struggle on my end.

bolsoncerrado
05-25-2016, 07:38 PM
Why would you need to change your router anyhow?

I'm also curious on why others havent shared any other successful prints either.

I havent been able mainly of lack of more time as I've been involved in premises move, very time consuming.

Later, hacking the vat with @woale's and @sukhvir's hacks I'm about to succeed with the laptop mode.

Next, for the nanoDLP.

HOWEVER, has ANYONE succeeded printing with nanoDLP yet?

@woale do the motors work fine now with nanoDLP?

I noticed TOW made it official as "compatible" (nanoDLP and Morpheus).

Moving the Raspi inside and getting rid of any outer cables making it a fully standalone rocks!

woale
05-26-2016, 12:51 AM
From my end, I'm still in backorder waiting for FTD resin... not that I would've found much time to print though.

My last print, with the last bit of leftover resin, were the vatholders (see the modifications thread), using nanoDLP with perfect motorcontrol 😉

woale
05-26-2016, 12:56 AM
@acnow, no ip configuration is needed on your router for nanoDLP. As long as dhcp assigns any ip to your RPi (wired/wireless).

bolsoncerrado
05-26-2016, 08:50 AM
Oh so the vatholders were printed in resin? Neat! I thought those were FDM! :D Mine are, at least, and a very nice addition to the Morpheus :D

bolsoncerrado
05-31-2016, 10:47 AM
After much help from friends woale and sukhvir and their terrific hacks, I finally managed to successfully print an order from a friend!

http://i.imgur.com/JTmf8Jv.jpg



http://i.imgur.com/CYA9Zi0.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/qGSTitm.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/UQgYtsz.jpg

bolsoncerrado
05-31-2016, 10:48 AM
I must admit I didnt put much attention on cleaning up the supports this time, so my apologies on the rough finish of these :D

AngryPanda
06-03-2016, 06:41 AM
Hi golks! Angry Panda checking in.. I've been extrememly busy with life but following the forum loosely. I've had some successes Ill share this weekend!

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

bolsoncerrado
06-03-2016, 08:52 AM
GoodEyes AngryPanda! :D

Glad to see you back ;)

Please do share! Both prints and techniques :D

AngryPanda
06-08-2016, 05:47 PM
Hello All,


Long time, No Post!! HAHAHAHA! (I know this thread is for Successful prints, and this post goes all over the place.. so feel free to move it where you want it to go..):cool:


I’m glad to see all of you continuing on with making the Morpheus world go round. As I said before, I have been extremely busy with life, but indeed have been following the forum to keep an eye on progress.


I have had quite a few of my own successes (and failures of course..)


Things to share with you all:


1: I have taken @Sukvir’s screen and vat holder modifications to heart, and removed the screen front bezel from my own, as well as print out the modified vat holder you shared with us. THESE HAVE WORKED WONDERS SO, THANK YOU!!!
Ironically, I printed out the vat-holders on both the Morpheus and FDM printer as well…(home brew REPRAP..).. The quality difference is amazing..lol..
2: I have found ANOTHER resin (Didn’t really “find” it, but looked locally –for me- based on another post y’all made).. From a company called Full Spectrum Laser. They are based out of Las Vegas, NV (6 hours away from me) and they market their own 3d Printers, Laser cutters, and Resins.. .


3: I have been playing with a number of finishing techniques for things and have found some interesting results.


So, I’ll just jump around and share stuff at random.
These are my Vat holders that I printed. (Both PLA and Resin versions..) I didn’t bother setting the FDM resolution very high as I planned on re-printing them out with resin once I got the printer going again. Turns out I used such a low and crappy resolution, that it would take too much to try and “fix”… so I just went for reprinting on the Morpheus. Clearly you can see much better results.., but even then I had a few issues.. (minor enough to ignore.. but found a new (to me) “fix and finish” technique to use..)
- Here you can see part of an uncured section.., so I literally just dipped the piece with the uncured section in the vat (with no precision at all..lol) and then got out my UV flashlight and just hand cured the piece on the spot..(took all but 10-15 seconds..). It was a messy job but enough to prove it could be done..(which lead me to experiments on finishing..-more on THAT in a different post.-)
So after I cleaned up the reprints as best as I could, removed the door stops.., and used the existing screws (per @Sukvir’s directions.. YOU ROCK!!!) and put the Vat-Holder in place.. WORKS LIKE A CHARM!!!!


In all of my failures.. I have completely ditched using MakerJuice G+ as it gave beyond inconsistent and very poor results with the Morpheus... even with the help of all the modifications and suggestions from TOW.. (They had the very SAME results as I did and resorted to using a different Resin..)
(Unfortunately I now have an entire CASE of Green MakerJuice G+ that I cannot use.. I’ll have to experiment more with that stuff later…)
Which leads me to the resin that I AM using..
I know some of you have been using FunToDo resin.. but being in the US, I have had problems attempting to buy from the local US distributor. (Still working with them to buy it, I just don’t have it yet.) That’s when I ran across your post (not sure who originally posted it because I can’t find it in the fray.. but KUDOS AND CREDIT TO YOU,) which led me to FSL3D (Full Spectrum Laser). I looked them up to research the company and product. I discovered they are based out of Las Vegas.. And I just so happened to be going that way the following week, so I STOPPED BY!
Found them to be an amazingly forward thinking company and very open to talk with me. They shared all of their prints on display-
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-display of different types of resin prints
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-a few "finished" 3d prints assembled and painted..
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(bad pic, but shows the "clear" resins too)
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One of FSL3D's printers (Pegasus Touch.. I think..)
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And I spoke with them about their laser cutters, 3d printers, and resins. The have a wide gamut of products.. So I mainly focused on the resins.. they have a myriad of colors.. (blue, green, red, clear.. etc..) they have Flexi, semi-Stiff, hard, and Cast-ables..


I have purchased their regular (semi stiff) resins (black, white, and clear) as well as some of their “cast-ables”..
The cast-able resin was of interest to me for nerdy reasons and I want to test it out for some model pieces I want to make.. (I have not tried it yet, as I am just working with the regular resin to put it through it’s paces…)




Although the resin doesn’t “speed cure” with the Morpheus quite like FTD supposedly does... it’s pretty consistent in its performance and EASILY removes from the build plate and cleans up.
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Per the cure test I ran, I found anywhere from 30-35 seconds works best. (You can see the results from the testing.. 10-25 just doesn’t quite do it.. and were weak/curled the less time it was given.) I measured the thickness with my digital calipers so you can see how well each layer cured. I will have to experiment more with that later so see if after setting a good foundation layer will allow for faster cure times of layers to hold together..
This test was done with the black resin only but I presume the results will be the same with each color. (BIG presumption there, but as long as the only difference is color pigment in the formula, I feel safe with that one..)
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Speaking of color... one of the great things I noticed with the FSL3d Resin was that no matter how long the print took, or how long I left the resin to sit..(in bottle or in vat) the color never separated.. (I always stirred or shook if it sat longer than a week, prior to printing again just for good measure.. but didn’t really need to.. it’s good stuff..)


The more I play around, the more I’ll post. Hopefully I’ll eventually get to purchase the FTD resins and play.. I like the idea of shorter cure times.. but I’m a patient guy..lol


I have new on finishing techniques... but, I’ll put that in the other thread.. 


Here are pictures of my successful (and not so successful) prints..


These parts are for the Stormtrooper Blaster found on line. –insert link here—(this is to go with my son’s newly acquired costume..)
Success!
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Slicing settings were as follows:
.150 layer res
35000ms cure/layer
50000ms bottom layer
5 bottom layers
20mm z lift
100mm/s retract

I know these are not super high res prints, but I didnt need them to be since the blaster will require assembly and finishing, so it didn't matter.


And now for my Fails!!
Here are some random fun things:

Forgot to tighten the ball mounts after locking down the Z's
(notice once we got past "even" level printing of items on the build plate.. the taller items forced the whole build plate to tilt.. :p (this one actually made me laugh @ 2am when I went to check on it..)
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Forgetting to clean the vat occasionally
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(notice once side of the print didn't fully cure properly due to cured resin "sticking" to the vat and covering part of the print.)
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Didn't adjust the default support settings (one of the biggest problems I have found with CWS software is the default support settings... Tweaking these has helped me tremendously,) and lost the entire print after the base built.. nothing else came out.. :mad::mad:
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These are the settings I now use for supports.. (and I add them all in manually.. the auto gen from CWS always seems to kill my prints..)
1484 (sorry for the rotated pic..)



It probably seems backwards to start with success pix and end with failures, but it keeps me humble and striving to do better! LOL :rolleyes:

Hope this helps someone.. (or at least provides some mild entertainment...)
I'll end this post by saying "Thank You!!"

Thank you to @Sukvir, @bolsoncerrado, @woale, @acnow, and everyone else who keep experimenting, trying, pushing, & posting!!


Cheers!

AP

(p.s. Sorry for all of the "rotated" pix.. I'll remember that sooner or later..) :p

sukhvir
06-08-2016, 06:21 PM
Wow. That's a long and very informative post @angrypanda and there are things we can all learn from it. Congratulations and well done on your successful prints. Looks like we are starting to break ground here. I have a funny feeling more people will be posting successful prints @bolsoncerrado

bolsoncerrado
06-08-2016, 07:34 PM
thanks for the long post, @AngryPanda I was starting to feel. only @sukhvir was ruling this machine lol

so did I miss the vat pics you printed or you removed them? I'm very interested in getting it hacked as well, and I do have the feeling we will be able. to use Mj resin on smaller vats rather than the massive default. morpheus one.

AngryPanda
06-08-2016, 07:42 PM
thanks for the long post, @AngryPanda I was starting to feel. only @sukhvir was ruling this machine lol

so did I miss the vat pics you printed or you removed them? I'm very interested in getting it hacked as well, and I do have the feeling we will be able. to use Mj resin on smaller vats rather than the massive default. morpheus one.
It WAS a long post.. *sorry* lol

Assuming you mean me, I haven't put together the new vat yet, its still WIP..
Im "hoping" a smaller vat might better utilize MJ+.. I'd hate for it to go to waste..

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

AngryPanda
06-08-2016, 09:01 PM
Something else I have resorted to when printing:
Anytime I make a config change (or am printing something that will take many hours), I will then adjust the Z-lift height to 40mm (which is the depth of the Resin vat) and reslice the print so that I can observe the print at an earlier stage (to check for failures or problems).
This makes it to where I dont get HOURS into a print (depending in size/resolution) only to find it failed.
The subsequent effect of course is it drags the print time out longer, but to me is worth the trade-off of wasted time/major frustration of losing a print after that much investment already.
I'm a patient guy so I don't mind the extra time put in if it helps yield more successful prints than failures. 😉
If I can catch a fail early on, I can get it re-started sooner!

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

bolsoncerrado
06-09-2016, 08:28 AM
Hmmmm not a bad trick! I indeed miss transparent metal VAT! LOL

acnow
07-20-2016, 04:08 AM
I printed it at 70 microns. That is the maximum recommended by FTD resins for this kind of printer. 5 layers at 50s exposure, then 13s exposure for the rest of the layers. The biggest issue is the supports and to be honest, through all the research I have done, the software is pretty poor at generating supports that are useful. Meshmixer comes close, but it is better to add them manually. My support tip diameter is 0.6mm, however will try and reduce this in future prints. I added a perforated edge in my CAD package to try and retain as straight an edge as possible, then added further supports manually using meshmixer and CW.


I will post all my findings and tips shortly once I have completed my tests (having wasted tons of good resin)

hi @sukhvir.. I wonder if you can upload your screenshot for your CW configuration and also for the Meshmixer..? It will be extremely helpful -just getting frustrated on this end... I am trying to print the Vat Holders and I am just having problems with the FuntoDo resin. It is not sticking to the plate.. Thanks!!

acnow
07-20-2016, 05:19 AM
It WAS a long post.. *sorry* lol



Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
@angrypanda.. they are distributors of funtodo resin here in the USA.. I purchased SnowWhite FTD resin and it was about 73 dollars with shipping per bottle
http://studioqubed.com/

acnow
07-23-2016, 01:13 PM
Something else I have resorted to when printing:
Anytime I make a config change (or am printing something that will take many hours), I will then adjust the Z-lift height to 40mm (which is the depth of the Resin vat) and reslice the print so that I can observe the print at an earlier stage (to check for failures or problems).
This makes it to where I dont get HOURS into a print (depending in size/resolution) only to find it failed.
The subsequent effect of course is it drags the print time out longer, but to me is worth the trade-off of wasted time/major frustration of losing a print after that much investment already.
I'm a patient guy so I don't mind the extra time put in if it helps yield more successful prints than failures. 
If I can catch a fail early on, I can get it re-started sooner!

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Your posts here have been very helpful @angrypanda! Thanks for that!! I have one question for you. For this resin do you do the same procedure of using a uv pen light to harden your first layer as @sukhivir suggested in "Morpheus Modifications"?

bolsoncerrado
07-23-2016, 06:40 PM
If my opinion matters, with brand new film and brand new FTD resin, I have not needed to use the UV laser to harden the first layer (with the bezel removal hack done of course).

sukhvir
07-26-2016, 12:15 AM
Hi @acnow. Sorry for the delayed response, but I have attached a screenshot of my Morpheus configuration (for FTD snow white resin). For meshmixer, I found the following screenshot helpful, but to be honest, use the DLP setting and make some minor tweaks. If you are just printing the vat holders, you shouldn't really need to use meshmixer. I'm a bit concerned your prints aren't sticking - your film should pretty much be sitting on the screen. I have been using the laser method less recently as prints seem to be sticking ok with just the bezel mod.

15221523

bolsoncerrado
07-26-2016, 07:14 AM
Did the above print print nice @sukhvir? I'm still new on the supports area with more fails than successes....

sukhvir
07-26-2016, 09:49 AM
@bolsoncerrado that isn't one of my prints, but is a screenshot I found which gave me a better idea of supports to use. If the model in the picture is hollow, it should print fine, otherwise the heavy weight will break the supports. Also, I noticed that tip diameter should be at least 0.6mm to avoid tip breakage and that a large base diameter is good to prevent the supports lifting from the base. I found a good tutorial video which I have in my dropbox account. DM me if you need a link to it.

bolsoncerrado
07-26-2016, 10:03 AM
Yeah that should be cool @sukhvir thanks!

karthik.pdy
09-03-2016, 10:58 AM
Hi Sukvir, I'm Karthik from India. On which resin we make 25micron layer thickness ??

sukhvir
09-05-2016, 09:35 AM
Hi Karthik. The resin I have been using is FTD (FunToDo). I'm not sure if they have distributors in India though. You will also possibly get 25 microns from the OWL resin, which they will release soon.

bolsoncerrado
09-05-2016, 09:51 AM
FTD delivers 25micron??

sukhvir
09-05-2016, 10:11 AM
Not tried it myself but don't see why it shouldn't do 25 micron layer height. It ways on their website that the resin can achieve 0.02mm layer height

karthik.pdy
09-12-2016, 07:38 AM
can anyone know the Mechanical and Thermal properties of FTD resins, like Young's modulus, Flexural strength, Tensile strength, Elongation at break, Impact resistance and Heat Distortion temperature ?? and this resin belong to which family of Plastics ??
@Sukvir FTD is available in India and they told to experiment ourself for 0.025 layer

sukhvir
09-14-2016, 07:44 AM
You will need to email FTD for all that info Karthik. We are all hobbyists here and not Chemical Engineers I'm afraid.

karthik.pdy
09-16-2016, 08:06 AM
I didn't get information about mechanical properties from FTD, that's why I asked any one done any research on this.
but I am planning to test the printed piece for the properties with some institution, thanks for the feedback

karthik.pdy
10-19-2016, 12:44 PM
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Hi

This mechanical properties I got from MakerJuice G+ web.
this spec will hint us about the plastics where to apply functionally...

acnow
10-28-2016, 02:09 PM
Hi Guys: I was finally able to fix my monitor. Somehow it got broken and it was turning on and off during the printing process. That's why I was not able to print anything correctly!! Finally I am up and running and things are being printed!! The morpheus team came home and they were superb. They diagnosed the problem and fixed the entire thing for me!! These people are really serious about their product!! I will show pictures later.
I have a question about slicing. I have been printing this file which is very thing but I had printed before in China and it comes out really well with pbs. But with the new Acrylic Resin from Morpheous is coming out really thin and it is breaking.. I wonder if I should change any setting in the NanoDLP profile? Or if If the problem is when I am creating the support and saving it as .stl? Here is a screenshot of the profile
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bolsoncerrado
10-29-2016, 12:37 PM
Can I learn more about your "broken monitor"?

Im having issues getting images coming from my own unit as well :(

sukhvir
11-03-2016, 11:19 PM
Hi acnow. Can you please share the problem (and solution) of your broken monitor?

sukhvir
12-23-2016, 05:15 PM
Hi folks. All seems quiet on the Morpheus forum front. Anyone printed anything they would like to share? :)

Also, I've learned a bit more about how to successfully print larger items / print in pieces and join / finishing techniques. Not sure if anyone is interested.

bolsoncerrado
12-24-2016, 08:55 PM
Im definetly interested but after almost a full year, only "one" print. :(

My LCD seems dead right now....

karthik.pdy
12-24-2016, 09:00 PM
I am very much interested please share

karthik.pdy
12-25-2016, 08:43 AM
This is my first trial using Morpheus Resin (Base 30000ms and 10000ms) layer 0.2mm

printed without any supports( any other software to generate support)
Some layers or not sticking any suggestions

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- - - Updated - - -

Hi Sukhvir Please share, it will be very useful
Hi folks. All seems quiet on the Morpheus forum front. Anyone printed anything they would like to share? :)

Also, I've learned a bit more about how to successfully print larger items / print in pieces and join / finishing techniques. Not sure if anyone is interested.

bolsoncerrado
12-26-2016, 10:48 PM
Didnt even know we could buy Morpheus resin already???

mojor
12-27-2016, 02:02 AM
This is my first trial using Morpheus Resin (Base 30000ms and 10000ms) layer 0.2mm

printed without any supports( any other software to generate support)
Some layers or not sticking any suggestions



Hi Karthik, I have attached a photo giving my take on the issues you are facing. I have a bit of experience with SLA printing although I have been primarily an FFF/FDM operator up until recently. I hope this helps. Here is a link to Sukhvir talking about it a buildplate adhesion solution: http://www.print3dforum.com/showthread.php/743-Unsticking-Print-Reloaded?p=32837&viewfull=1#post32837

karthik.pdy
12-27-2016, 08:54 AM
Hi Mojor thank for your feedback,@ Sukhvir need your support on this issue

here is the ROOK successfully came with Morpheus Resin 0.07mm layers (Base 30000ms and 10000ms)

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Then a Part with supports also came out with some problems using FTD snow white resin (Base 50000ms and 18000ms)

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these supports generated in meshmixer and printed with CW.
the part contact with supports having rough finish and some short fill, But the build over that area is looking good finish.
I think its the problem with supports stability.

also suggest how to finish the parts.

sukhvir
12-27-2016, 12:49 PM
Nice one Karthik and good to see you are on your way to making some good prints. Some good tips there from mojor also. I would suggest the following:

- The largest area should be in contact with the build plate, therefore the side where it has flaked due to no support should be on the plate.
- The problem you have with the part breaking at the top is due to too much adhesion. Although this is good, you should have built a thin supporting layer around it (even 1 layer thick) that you can cut off in post-production. This layer should extend around 10mm around the whole part and is easy to break off then sand.
- I would add some supports inside the compartments that you can cut off later.
- Regarding your print that had the support failure, make sure the contact points are 0.5 or 0.6mm as anything thinner will cause a failure.

My finishing techniques mainly consist of sanding but I will put up a separate post on this to show before and after results and show the sandpaper and files I use.

I have attached a picture showing the thin layer that I print and remove later. This gives better bed adhesion and means you don't need to print and cure a separate layer and also gives you a layer to get the knife under to remove the piece without damaging it.

15841585

Finished and sanded:

15861587

karthik.pdy
12-28-2016, 12:25 PM
Thanks @ Sukhvir for your strategic solution. eagerly waiting for your Finishing Forum

kindly let me know the process in cleaning the VAT and Build plate

How much accuracy you will get ?

sukhvir
12-30-2016, 11:04 AM
Hi Karthik. Not sure what you mean by accuracy, but print sizes are as I expect them to be, as long asI increase the model size by 0.4% to compensate for shrinkage. with regards to cleaning the build plate and vat, not sure what information you are looking for. If it's for a resin colour change, I empty out resin, unscrew bolts, remove film and clean everything with isopropyl alcohol before piecing back together. The build plate should be cleaned before every print to remove any debris, however you can lightly sand the surface now and again to keep it clean.

karthik.pdy
01-05-2017, 08:44 AM
Hi Sukhvir & all

I tried a part with 1.5mm supports ribs and gap between ribs 6mm, I added 5 degrees rotations with respective to X & Y

but there is some issues in formation in below images. kindly suggest

Inner side is perfect

1591159215931594

sukhvir
01-05-2017, 12:31 PM
Hi Karthik,

Can you please send me the stl file so I can see how it should look? I can recommend supports after looking at it.

karthik.pdy
01-06-2017, 03:26 AM
Hi Karthik,

Can you please send me the stl file so I can see how it should look? I can recommend supports after looking at it.

Hi Sukhvir

kindly download STL https://www.dropbox.com/s/8zkdzm89rzz0k7z/Cating%20cover.rar?dl=0

sukhvir
01-06-2017, 02:23 PM
Hi Karthik,

Why have you added the ribs? Are they part of the final print, or are they supports to help the print?

karthik.pdy
01-06-2017, 06:37 PM
Hi Sukhvir

I added that ribs as supports and a base with CW.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

sukhvir
01-06-2017, 07:37 PM
A few points to note here Karthik:

- Your supports are too thick. They will damage the part when you remove them.
- This part only needs support on the securing flaps. The base should be sitting directly on the build plate at no angle.
- Add a single layered rim around the whole part which will stop it from lifting at the corners.
- Your supports should be placed closer together (2mm apart rather than 6mm) and should be 0.4 - 0.6mm thick to make them easy to remove.

I'm not sure which CAD package you used to make the part, but I'll see if I can add the supports to your STL file.

karthik.pdy
01-07-2017, 04:11 AM
Thanks for your information Sukhvir.

Can you show a picture of single layered rim around the part for my better understanding


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

karthik.pdy
01-07-2017, 10:43 AM
Hi sukhvir

can you suggest for this part too... it will be very helpful
https://www.dropbox.com/s/438czedf5i4rwv3/bottom.STEP?dl=0

karthik.pdy
02-03-2017, 12:45 PM
Hi, any one try Materialise Magics software for support generation ?

bolsoncerrado
02-03-2017, 12:50 PM
any link, please?

sukhvir
02-03-2017, 09:09 PM
any link, please?


http://www.materialise.com/en/software/magics

I think you can download a demo, however full version is for professional level printers (those costing £30k+) and software costs around $20k

vladimir
04-01-2017, 12:28 PM
1988MadeSolid 50 micron Burn-in Layers

Cure Time 60sec
Normal Layers

Cure Time 30
Morpheus E7

MadOff
04-05-2017, 07:21 PM
@vladimir, wich resin ?
magnific result !

vladimir
04-12-2017, 05:30 PM
Thx .I used madesolid blue

vrogy
05-14-2017, 09:12 AM
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4187/33804277464_54d0fe5312_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/TvaKY5)IMG_1534 (https://flic.kr/p/TvaKY5) by Michael Vroegop (https://www.flickr.com/photos/vrogy/), on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4157/34646881445_3e16702101_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/UMCjLV)IMG_1535 (https://flic.kr/p/UMCjLV) by Michael Vroegop (https://www.flickr.com/photos/vrogy/), on Flickr

Got a couple eiffels off our Morpheus!

karthik.pdy
05-14-2017, 10:41 AM
Hi Michael can you share the 3D file

- - - - - - - - - -


Thx .I used madesolid blue

Supports generated by which software?

vrogy
05-14-2017, 09:05 PM
Hey Karthik- I believe it was this http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:22051

karthik.pdy
05-15-2017, 08:39 AM
Hi Valadimir, nice one

can you share the 3d with supports, so that I can learn to generate supports

acnow
07-25-2017, 11:46 PM
Hi Guys: I had a good run with my Morpheus Mark IV and now I am selling it at a good price.. Let me know if any of you is interested in buying it,
thanks! AC
http://www.ebay.com/itm/282586636328?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1558.l2649

bolsoncerrado
07-26-2017, 07:57 AM
Good luck. I think im gonna sell mine soon too.

Mike01700
01-04-2018, 01:55 PM
Hey Acnow, I'm looking for a second hand Mark 4 because it looks awesome! Is yours still for sale?

- - - - - - - - - -

Maybe yours bolsoncerrado?

bolsoncerrado
01-05-2018, 08:26 AM
Well, Team Owl Works stopped by my door in Spain.... from Korea! Again! And fixed all the issues, plus I bought 2 of their Resins to make further tests....future is promising now.

Susanne
09-25-2019, 07:02 AM
This seems to be a pretty amazing prints you are taking out.
The print you are printing are precise and perfectly done with commands. Hope to see more samples from you.