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sukhvir
04-06-2016, 10:15 PM
After almost a month of tinkering, testing and a few litres of wasted resin, I have made a couple of modifications to my Morpheus that now gives me good and consistent prints. I thought a video would explain it better, so please see click on the link below to view. Please excuse the poor quality of the video, however I wanted to share this ASAP. I have made TOW aware of my modifications and they have encouraged me to share (however are not responsible for any changes you make). Please only do this if you are comfortable to do so as I cannot be held liable for any damage you may do to your printer.

Basically, the main problem is that the vat is sitting too high above the LCD and this results in poor adhesion, inaccurately sized prints and if you press down too hard on the platform, the bottom 4-5mm of your print are deformed. I'll quickly list the main changes I have made as shown in the video:

Vat modification:
- removed silicone from top of vat
- added 1.5mm rubber gasket on bottom vat plate
- place sheet on top of this gasket
- add ANOTHER rubber gasket on top, which is slightly larger on the inside (35mm perimeter)

Morpheus LCD panel:
- remove metal plate that surrounds the LCD
- carefully insert LCD and use thin tape to make sure screen is flush with base of Morpheus

I increased the retraction height in CW to 25mm to make sure the WHOLE print lifts off the vat film. I use FTD resin and have been printing with 0.07mm layers (still to try 0.025mm layers). 3 base layers at 50s each and rest are at 11s.

Print ONE single base layer, cancel print, then remove the build plate. remove excess resin and use a UV laser pointer (or possibly UV torch) to really stick the base layer to the build plate. Re-attach plate and re-start print. Your print will not peel from the platform any more.

I hope that covers it all and feel free to post your questions, findings or better modifications in this thread :D


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pfFUcfGNsTM

dada print
04-07-2016, 02:49 AM
Thanks Sukhvir

Excellent video tutorial and information. I will try this method and see if the prints will come out.

Cheers
David

bolsoncerrado
04-07-2016, 03:05 PM
Thanks so much for the tips, tutorials and vid, man!

Sounds risky but worth trying!

Some quick questions:

1) any special rubber you used for the sheet for the VAT?
2) you don't care much about the suck up effect on the plate once it starts pumping up the print right?
3) why do you also unscrew the arrow screws on the plate? what for?
4) how did you remove the rest of controls on the CONTROL screen (unneeded ones) on CWS?

Thanks!

AngryPanda
04-07-2016, 05:52 PM
Agreed! EXCELLENT POST!!! Thank you @sukhvir!!

sukhvir
04-07-2016, 07:41 PM
You are very welcome and it is important we all help each other out to really get this working properly. The good news is that TOW have seen my modifications in the video and seem to approve. They are not hard to do, to be honest, and are reversible if required, so I would class them as low risk. TOW sent me a photo to stress that it is important to make sure the screen is properly 'sealed'.

1401

To answer your questions @bolsoncerrado:

1) any special rubber you used for the sheet for the VAT?
- I am using this rubber sheet http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/natural-rubber-sheets/5063078. It was cheap, however to be honest, 1.5mm silicone would be much better if you can get it at a reasonable price. I was really just trying anything out of desperation and didn't want to spend too much on things that may not work. Although the rubber is working great for me so far, I'm just not sure how it will react with the resin long-term, but seems fine so far.

2) you don't care much about the suck up effect on the plate once it starts pumping up the print right?
- The 'suck up' effect is normal for all DLP resin printers. It is less pronounced with the PDMS vats, however is still present. This is normal and nothing to worry about. TOW sent me a photo today showing they tape the vat down to reduce or eliminate this. From their picture, it looks like they are testing the FTD resin.

1402

3) why do you also unscrew the arrow screws on the plate? what for?
- I was told by TOW to always do this. It may not be required, however I still do it as a 'belts and braces' approach to really make sure my vat is level. If the vat is not level, you will experience issues where the print will not properly stick to the build plate.

4) how did you remove the rest of controls on the CONTROL screen (unneeded ones) on CWS?
- To be honest, I didn't actually remove any extra controls. My copy of CW installed like this.

Let me know if you have any further questions.

woale
04-08-2016, 12:33 AM
Without much hassle, added an optical endstop (sensor here (https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9299), and board here (https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9322)) on Z Min to ease the build plate levelling:
14041407
This allows the build plate to "home" down via Gcode G28 command which is compatible with the Sprinter 1.3.22T firmware.
Sadly, with this factory default firmware, only Z Min (lower sensor) seems to be taken into account, and not Z Max (upper sensor).

The sensor needs to be wired with Z-Min on the Ramps board (5th connector counting from left to right), where 1st row pin is Signal, 2nd row pin is Ground, and 3rd row pin is Vcc :
1403

So it should look something like this:
1405

And fiddle the wires via the right actuator, like:
1406

Then snug fit the sensor board into the holder and clip on to the right actuator. The right handlebar pin (which will block the sensor) simply slides over, like so:
1408

The 2 parts ('Sensor holder' and 'Handlebar pin') and corresponding STL files, can be found here (https://cad.onshape.com/documents/2ed68b10558798b93efe3057):
1409

woale
04-08-2016, 12:47 AM
The 'suck up' effect is normal for all DLP resin printers. It is less pronounced with the PDMS vats, however is still present.
You mean our film isn't PDMS ? Any idea how to obtain such PDMS film ? And would this allow continuous printing, like Carbon3D ?

bolsoncerrado
04-08-2016, 06:42 AM
what's a PDMS film guys? :P angry panda said with less speed on z axis the suck up is less pronounced... but since it only happens on the very first layers...

BobenhamHotspur
04-08-2016, 08:18 AM
@ woale - "........This allows the build plate to "home" down via Gcode G28 command which is compatible with the Sprinter 1.3.22T firmware.
Sadly, with this factory default firmware, only Z Min (lower sensor) seems to be taken into account, and not Z Max (upper sensor)."
If the firmware is accessible then using Arduino IDE it should be easy enough to enable the Z Max sensor. The pin allocation would need checking and probably just un-commenting a line to enable the software.

woale
04-08-2016, 09:58 AM
If the firmware is accessible then using Arduino IDE it should be easy enough to enable the Z Max sensor. The pin allocation would need checking and probably just un-commenting a line to enable the software.
I'm afraid the source isn't accessible :confused: and I don't have any experience in decoding stored code from an arduino.
By the time I'll get to 33cm height prints, I'll ask TOW for their settings ;)

bolsoncerrado
04-08-2016, 10:29 AM
If it's an open firmware you would actually need to just recode it, but of course TOW should be VERY cooperative on this hehe.... Given it's only to add a new feature, maybe they can provide an encoded .hex file for us to just update our firmwares....

sukhvir
04-08-2016, 11:05 AM
Regarding the PDMS vat @woale and @bolsoncerrado, there was a deliberate choice made my TOW to not use this. The PDMS vat has a layer of silicon that allows UV light to pass through. Instead of the print sticking to a film, it sticks to the silicon layer and I believe it is easier to peel from the silicon layer. The downside of this is the expense! The silicon layer is not cheap and after using around 2 litres of resin, you need to replace the silicon layer (this is how the Formlabs printers work). The silicon becomes cloudy where it has printed, whereas the film we are using does not, therefore gives you a much greater lifespan.

Regarding the CLIP technology, this is a slightly different process and is custom to the carbon printers. It involves a 'dead zone' being created where the vat has an oxygen permeable membrane that stops the print sticking to the bottom of the vat. The print moves up very slowly after each exposure so that resin can continuously flow under the print to be cured. I also think that the resins have been specially formulated by Carbon for use only in their printers. http://carbon3d.com/clip-process

At $40,000+ each year and a build volume of only 144x81x330, it is beyond our reach and use. https://s3.amazonaws.com/flabs-carbon/downloads/pricing/Carbon_Pricing_April2016_A.pdf

woale
04-08-2016, 11:20 AM
At $40,000+ each year and a build volume of only 144x81x330, it is beyond our reach and use. https://s3.amazonaws.com/flabs-carbon/downloads/pricing/Carbon_Pricing_April2016_A.pdf
Very true ;)

woale
04-08-2016, 05:04 PM
Endstop links added to post #6.

acnow
04-09-2016, 01:44 AM
You are ......

Let me know if you have any further questions.

Thanks for your information @sukhvir.. It is awesome! I can't wait to implement those things. I have one more question: do you have a link to the tape that you used to cover the lcd and also a link for the resin? Thanks a lot man!

sukhvir
04-09-2016, 07:00 AM
@acnow you are welcome. With regards to the tape, I just re-purposed the tape I removed from the LCD bezel. Although it is robust enough, I may add more later. I tried duct tape but found it was too thick. I suppose any thin tape will do.

I dont O to know which country you are in, but in the UK, I use Peedie Models for the resin. Great price and service. If you are outside the UK, you can look at the FunToDo resin website for other distributors. http://www.peediemodels.com/products.php?cat=5

acnow
04-09-2016, 02:03 PM
@
I dont O to know which country you are in, but in the UK, I use Peedie Models for the resin.
Sukhvir.. I am really looking forward to your kickstarter campaign! It seems fun man! Keep us posted! I live here in Miami (FL) and the sellers for snowwhite resin (fun-to-do-resins) is this company: http://turley.myshopify.com/ (studioqubed.com). I wonder what type of glue did you use to join your 4 rubber strips? Did you also add any glue between rubber and metal frame?

sukhvir
04-09-2016, 03:16 PM
@acnow.. Appreciate the support for the Kickstarter campaign. It will go live later this month so will keep you posted and would appreciate if you could get the word out for us :)

with regards to using glue, I haven't glued any of the parts down. The 4 strips were just cut so they meet each other at the corners and don't need to be precise to be honest. They lift the film slightly, then the added force from the upper gasket adds further tension. Black natural rubber is fine at the moment but if I can get silicone at a reasonable price, I might change it later.

The FTD snowwhite resin is great to work with and the added flexibility means it doesn't break like the MJ resin. I've got a bottle of black FTD and also ordered a clear FTD resin to test them out.

Maine thing I am struggling with at the moment is the pigment fr the resin. I added red and blue to make a purple pigment and although the colour is just as I need, I am struggling to get it to stick to the build plate. The White resin sticks great though and I really recommend the Uv laser pen. It can stick prints to the platform, but can also be used to stick smaller parts together.

acnow
04-09-2016, 04:04 PM
@acnow.. Appreciate the support for the Kickstarter campaign. It will go live later this month so will keep you posted and would appreciate if you could get the word out for us :)

( I think you will appreciate this link. It has giving me useful tips about spreading the word : http://fourhourworkweek.com/2012/12/18/hacking-kickstarter-how-to-raise-100000-in-10-days-includes-successful-templates-e-mails-etc/ -we are also preparing a few campaigns on kickstarter (I'll keep you posted)
I purchased a bottle of 3dm -abs so I will let you know how it prints once I implement your changes (but so far what I have got it is really strong! But I will show pictures soon) http://www.kudo3d.com/shop/abs/ ).. Do you have a link of the uv pen you use ?

sukhvir
04-09-2016, 09:14 PM
Thanks for the link... it is one I have seen before but have you ran a KS campaign, or are you about to run one? DM me and we can chat further about this.

Have you been having problems with your Morpheus, or have you been getting good prints without any mods? I would love to see the prints you have made with your 3DM resin. Regarding the laser pen, I bought mine on eBay. Just search for a 405nm 5mW UV laser pen. This is the one I bought http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/311531285566?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

acnow
04-09-2016, 10:16 PM
Thanks for the link... it is one I have seen before but have you ran a KS campaign, or are you about to run one? DM me and we can chat further about this.

Have you been having problems with your Morpheus, or have you been getting good prints without any mods? I would love to see the prints you have made with your 3DM resin. Regarding the laser pen, I bought mine on eBay. Just search for a 405nm 5mW UV laser pen. This is the one I bought http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/311531285566?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I just emailed you at the "hello" email that appears on your website and answered your questions there. Thanks for the link about the uv pen!

woale
04-09-2016, 10:42 PM
Euhm guys, am I missing something? What kickstarter are you to run @sukhvir?

sukhvir
04-10-2016, 08:55 PM
@woale... My friend and I have made a computer to teach kids programming and electronics. It's something we have been working on for a few years now and are about to launch a Kickstarter campaign. It's launching hopefully end of this month but I'll keep you posted but would appreciate any help getting the word out when launched :) You can find out more info on http://www.thisisada.com

We needed to prototype a few parts as the FDM parts weren't looking too good and required a lot of finishing. the Morpheus prints are looking good though and I'll keep looking for tweaks to perfect the prints.

Has anyone carried out any of the mods I mentioned and had any better luck with their prints?

woale
04-10-2016, 10:11 PM
@sukhvir, best of luck with the campaign. It's looking promising.

As for the mods, I've also removed the metal plate from the LCD screen which seem to give more consistent prints. Base layers are sticking better to the build plate, even without using a laser pen.

sukhvir
04-11-2016, 09:04 PM
Any chance of sharing your successful prints with us @woale? Would help to boost the confidence of the community.

woale
04-11-2016, 09:10 PM
Any chance of sharing your successful prints with us @woale? Would help to boost the confidence of the community. Too bad I haven't got the time to print anything fancy yet since "upgrade" with your mods.... just the endstops in post #6 (http://www.print3dforum.com/showthread.php/757-Morpheus-Modifications?p=33469&viewfull=1#post33469) above ;)

acnow
04-13-2016, 03:34 AM
Too bad I haven't got the time to print anything fancy yet since "upgrade" with your mods.... just the endstops in post #6 (http://www.print3dforum.com/showthread.php/757-Morpheus-Modifications?p=33469&viewfull=1#post33469) above ;)

@woale -just bought the sensors! I wonder where did you purchase the cables you used to connect them with the printer -any link? Thanks in advance!

woale
04-13-2016, 10:44 AM
@woale -just bought the sensors! I wonder where did you purchase the cables you used to connect them with the printer -any link? Thanks in advance!
Like these: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10363 standard 3pin wire, but maybe try to find something a bit longer.
Also an 220 Ohm resistor needs to be soldered on the sensor board, like one of these: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10969

acnow
04-13-2016, 05:09 PM
Like these: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10363 standard 3pin wire, but maybe try to find something a bit longer.
Also an 220 Ohm resistor needs to be soldered on the sensor board, like one of these: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10969
Thanks for those useful links @woale. If I buy this one with length 12 .. will it work there? https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10373

woale
04-15-2016, 01:06 PM
Maybe look for a longer one. I remember 25cm was too tight, so I used 75cm I had laying around.

sukhvir
04-23-2016, 10:39 PM
I'm not sure if anyone is interested but another issue I sometimes have is that the bed is a bit too big. If I want to print something smaller in a different colour, it means emptying the vat, adding loads of resin for a tiny print. I am going to have a try at making a smaller print bed and smaller resin vat so it is less of a hassle to change resins for smaller prints. Is anyone else interested, or just me?

acnow
04-24-2016, 01:16 AM
I'm not sure if anyone is interested but another issue I sometimes have is that the bed is a bit too big. If I want to print something smaller in a different colour, it means emptying the vat, adding loads of resin for a tiny print. I am going to have a try at making a smaller print bed and smaller resin vat so it is less of a hassle to change resins for smaller prints. Is anyone else interested, or just me?
Count me in @sukhvir! Very important element that could save resin, time and money...

woale
04-24-2016, 09:52 AM
I'm not sure if anyone is interested but another issue I sometimes have is that the bed is a bit too big. If I want to print something smaller in a different colour, it means emptying the vat, adding loads of resin for a tiny print. I am going to have a try at making a smaller print bed and smaller resin vat so it is less of a hassle to change resins for smaller prints. Is anyone else interested, or just me?

Very good idea @sukhvir. Note the vat should be heavy enough, or somehow fixed, to avoid the print sticking to the membrane and lifting the vat ;)

woale
04-24-2016, 10:09 AM
To avoid vat lifting, I've added a few printable holders to keep the vat in place, download/fork on Onshape from here (https://cad.onshape.com/documents/0e3d38a0100b7626f3d43e26) or on Thingiverse from here (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1520741) :
1438
I must admit the parts are hard to keep them stick on the build plate... it took me a few attempts.
It's a simple replacement of the Morpheus door stoppers on the lower left and right side.

Remove the two screws from the door stopper:
1434

And reuse the screws to add the first part:
1433

Then add the second part (with a nail in the hole):
1432
To allow the second part to swivel:
143514361437

Have fun ;)

woale
04-24-2016, 10:15 AM
To avoid the bolt remaining inplace when unscrewing the build plate... another "mod" to the Morpheus: it definitely needs a washer between the build plate fixture :
1439

bolsoncerrado
04-26-2016, 08:46 AM
Thats the washer I meant to avoid "injuring" the plate holder further! :D

And awesome mod for the VAT holder haha! :D Thanks so much!!!

Regarding the VAT making it smaller I actually thought of making use of the current VAT plate system and splitting the VAT into two smaller containers so we may be could use TWO VATs with two different silicon color prints at the same time (even if one finishes sooner than the other) by placing them accurately on the plate of the software...

That would enable multicolor printing (well not actually, just use two different color resins in one go ;)) in smaller areas and perhaps making use of the MJ+ bottles I bought lol

Thoughts?



Quick mockup:

http://i.imgur.com/GuiOZJq.jpg

bolsoncerrado
04-26-2016, 08:48 AM
Remove the two screws from the door stopper:

Have fun ;)

...probably peel the foam and reapply again to the vertical parts cutting the holes so at least you get slight stop to the door :D less is nothing! haha

bolsoncerrado
04-26-2016, 09:05 AM
@woale any chances you can upload the parts as .STL straight to thingiverse or so? I tried to dl from onshape but i get a weird file extension instead....

sukhvir
04-26-2016, 11:07 AM
@bolsoncerrado - I love your idea of the 2 vat concept. I'll see what I can come up with.

woale
04-26-2016, 11:32 AM
@woale any chances you can upload the parts as .STL straight to thingiverse or so? I tried to dl from onshape but i get a weird file extension instead....
The export feature on Onshape allows different formats, but the part(s) need to be selected first. Uploaded STL to Thingiverse and updated post to ease the pain ;)

bolsoncerrado
04-26-2016, 01:34 PM
Thanks mate! COuldnt find the how to on the .STL format ;)

BTW what does (or with 35% pixel dimming and 6 pixel wall) mean? :D

@sukhvir im sure we can manage something out! ;)

May be PLA is strong enough at 100% infill to work some tests? :D

woale
04-26-2016, 02:32 PM
BTW what does (or with 35% pixel dimming and 6 pixel wall) mean? :D
Some programs (like nanoDLP as of current build 1140, but not CW of course) allow to less cure the solid inner areas of a print... to keep strength, increase membrane life time and prevent over-curing. It's a bit like infill on FDM printers, but with the walls (without dimming) measured in pixels ;)

sukhvir
04-26-2016, 09:59 PM
@bolsoncerrado I've started working on it already. My design was a single (smaller) vat but can easily be modified to a double one. The world's first dual vat sla printer is coming soon ;)

sukhvir
04-27-2016, 12:29 PM
Here is what I am currently making. I am making a dual vat system that will allow you to make smaller prints and save on resin. I have 2 different build plates - 150x150 and 100x100 (and vats to match). I'll keep you posted with my progress.1442

bolsoncerrado
04-27-2016, 03:41 PM
So friggin awesome! :D

We just need a source for the films now :D

bolsoncerrado
04-28-2016, 09:30 AM
@woale I have problems with the printed pieces...for an unknown reason the parts dont fit togheter...I can't snap them like if one of the two is smaller to enter the other... So rather than scaling or sanding, mind if you can reduce the size of the teeth a mm or two please?

Might be just my FDM printer though. I'm null to CAD sorry!

woale
04-28-2016, 07:37 PM
@woale I have problems with the printed pieces...for an unknown reason the parts dont fit togheter...I can't snap them like if one of the two is smaller to enter the other... So rather than scaling or sanding, mind if you can reduce the size of the teeth a mm or two please?

Might be just my FDM printer though. I'm null to CAD sorry!

Print it with the Morpheus then :D
Your personal copy with smaller teeth is here (https://cad.onshape.com/documents/5721f921e4b03e934c71f030) ;)

acnow
04-29-2016, 12:22 AM
Print it with the Morpheus then :D
Your personal copy with smaller teeth is here (https://cad.onshape.com/documents/5721f921e4b03e934c71f030) ;)
@woale.. can you please, share a link for the entire created vat please, I can't wait to print mine!.. thanks a lot for this!

sukhvir
04-29-2016, 12:37 AM
First test print of the smaller vat... couple of modifications, but mostly there. Printed using ABS at 30% infill. The final one will be 100% infill.
14441443


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u48K5uMrByM

acnow
04-29-2016, 04:27 AM
First test print of the smaller vat... couple of modifications, but mostly there. Printed using ABS at 30% infill. The final one will be 100% infill.


@sukhvir -they look amazing! Can you please, share the files so that we can print them too? Thanks in advance!!

bolsoncerrado
04-29-2016, 09:00 AM
@sukhvir is the man!! :D I'd go for PLA 100% infill.... looks way stronger than ABS imho.

sukhvir
04-29-2016, 09:07 AM
Thanks guys. I'm currently still prototyping and making sure I have the correct materials and sizes before I share the files. I'll then write a detailed post on the process.

sukhvir
05-05-2016, 01:21 PM
Phase 1 of dual vat system complete. Both vats are printed. Phase 2 coming up :)

14451446

bolsoncerrado
05-05-2016, 03:57 PM
Banzaaaaiii!!!


http://vignette1.wikia.nocookie.net/simpsons/images/7/7f/Mmm.jpg/revision/latest?cb=20121205194537

sukhvir
05-06-2016, 10:48 PM
Work in progress. Hopefully should start printing next week :D

1448

bolsoncerrado
05-07-2016, 09:11 PM
It was just a spam bot...

Cant wait for your results on the multivat printing! :D

AngryPanda
06-08-2016, 05:56 PM
Got my Pi3, end-stops, and new vat materials (gonna try my hand at making a smaller vat as well.. only 1 small vat in the center instead of 2 like @sukvir's).. I got some work to do..lol

I really wanna try Nano as well.. I also picked up a camera for the Pi. The goal will be to remote monitor... hopefully the camera will 1: work, 2: provide adequate resolution and picture from inside the printer w/out getting washed out by the IR..

As for the Vat, I ordered another ball-mount like the original build plate for the Morpheus and and have hopes of cutting & machining my own Z bar to attach it to. Will I was at FSL in Vegas, (see successful print post), I purchased one of their "super-vats" and build plates and will retro-fit it to the Morpheus.. Guess we'll see how this all goes..lol

I'm absolutely sure I'll need to constantly refer back to this thread and ask for guidance on setting up/tweaking Nano.. Thank you guys for giving it a go and opening up options!!!

bolsoncerrado
06-08-2016, 07:22 PM
Interesting thing on the 1VAT experiment too, @AngryPanda.... do you think it will have enough anchor point/strength to keep the plate steady?

AngryPanda
06-08-2016, 08:41 PM
Interesting thing on the 1VAT experiment too, @AngryPanda.... do you think it will have enough anchor point/strength to keep the plate steady?
I've been working through a couple of design iterations for that very reason. Seeing how I'll need to retrofit it to the existing Morpheus design, I'm making a custom frame from aluminium bars to lock the vat down using what's already in place (including @sukvir's vat locks in front)
The Super Vat (FSL3D's replaceable vat) is what I'm adapting to. (Pictured) I'll also need to accommodate securing down the locking/removable (and replaceable) vat liner. They're printer is a laser design (v.s. DLP) so the design will inherit the dreaded "suck-up" effect we deal with now. But I have a thoughts in mind for it. Again, WIP..
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160608/605a606a087fcae8acd396238a35df25.jpg

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

sukhvir
06-09-2016, 07:46 AM
Looking good. I've been busy over the past few weeks getting our Kickstarter campaign ready but will come back to finish my dual vat system shortly.

By the way @AngryPanda, the vat lockdown system was designed by @woale so I can't take credit for that. Can you tell me how you designed the aluminium base plate in that picture and how it will attach to the ball joint? It's looking good. I've attached a picture of mine but had to use some epoxy.

1486

bolsoncerrado
06-09-2016, 08:25 AM
Given the SuperVat has a frame, may be printing a template that covers it and use woale's system to keep the template pressure over the supervat will do enough.

@sukhvir instead of epoxy i might have used one of those "metal glues" that turn "solder" junctions once dried. The ones that look like solder when in liquid mode i mean.
But they look awesome! Cant wait to play with mine....if i ever get to print ANYTHING reasonable with the Morpheus! :(

AngryPanda
06-11-2016, 07:23 AM
@Sukvir, Thanks for giving credit where its due.. @woale, 1,000 apologies, THANK YOU for your awesome Vat lock down.. :)

Sukvir, on my plate mod, there is a large hollow block that the plate attaches to with machine screws. to attach it to the ball screw mount, I removed the existing screw from the ball mount (which luckily enough matches the threads already in the hollow block,) and I will use a threaded rod between the two. I'll post a picture here shortly as soon as I get it finished.

In looking at your design you posted, where your build plates are attached to your flat mounts (with screws and epoxy,) you could use stand-offs between the two plates and longer screws to lift them up and give you a enough space between the plates (build and mount) so you could use a bolt to come up underneath going into the ball-mount. (Not sure if that description translates through the way I want it to...)

AngryPanda
06-11-2016, 07:46 AM
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160611/3cbac14db1ef5d4565b27942b4b7f030.jpg

So this is the partially completed new smaller build plate sitting inside the SuperVat. (I laugh every time I say or write that down.)

Next step is to create crossbars to lock the vat in place with the existing locks.
I will have to create covers for the open space like suggested to protect the screen.

A potential problem I see with the new metal vat frame is that it is about the same thickness as the LCD cover I just removed with THAT mod.. It also has a layer of acrylic that the replaceable liner sits on top of. (This replaceable liner is the functional equivalent of the Morpheus' curing film its uses now. Much thicker, but same purpose.)
The liner sits flush and directly on top of the acrylic "window".
Not exactly sure how well it will facilitate curing the resin by the LCD image. I see this being a huge WIP. (How many ways can we NOT make a light bulb [emoji6] )

Ill post as I go.

bolsoncerrado
06-11-2016, 08:21 AM
Perhaps you can use the original red vat stoppers and woale's black vat stoppers to 3dprint something to keep your supervat in place hmmm

looking great so far!

cant wait to see sukhvir's in action too!

AngryPanda
06-11-2016, 08:26 AM
A printer printing and replicating its own replacement parts... Is this where robots take over the world?..lol

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

bolsoncerrado
06-12-2016, 12:02 AM
Thats the reprap movement yes! :D

AngryPanda
06-14-2016, 07:11 PM
Build plate officially completed... on to the SuperVat adaptation....hmmmmmm1491

bolsoncerrado
06-14-2016, 08:35 PM
Is the bar V shaped in the center or just a visual effect?

bolsoncerrado
06-14-2016, 08:39 PM
Oh just realized the new "screws", good ones! where did you get those? can we replace the original ones on the morpheus? ie, same screw metric?

AngryPanda
06-14-2016, 10:14 PM
just a visual effect..lol.. Camera is tricky.. good eye tho!

- - - Updated - - -

I picked them (screws) up at my local Ace Hardware store. This is new bar altogether so I fitted my own.. they had both Metric and SAE.. just used wing-nuts on the backside with washers.. works pretty good!

bolsoncerrado
06-15-2016, 09:13 AM
OK now for the prints! :D

bolsoncerrado
06-15-2016, 11:59 AM
well these are the last modifications I made to my morpheus:

https://i.imgur.com/9c6QWUH.jpg

As ridiculous as it looks, I've have had to add tape on both sides of the door as the vat is now being pushed out every time the bar tilts!! :O

AngryPanda
06-15-2016, 10:12 PM
Whaaaaaa???? Can you attach vid of what it's doing?

bolsoncerrado
06-16-2016, 09:04 AM
since the plate is not perfectly leveled with the vat due to issue with the arms and the bar TOW is working in, every time the bar moves up and the film adheres to the plate, the vat is pushed forward :(

AngryPanda
06-18-2016, 01:25 AM
After playing around with the Super-vat idea.. I decided to attempt a hybrid to test out if the liner that I am working with will work the way I hope it will.
So I am making my own Vat liner "holder" out of some angled recycled stainless steel corner covering.
1493

I measured the length of the sides of the liner and the holes used to mount it, then cut the sides and drilled the holes.

1494

Next step is bending the bar on the line to form and square the corners.
1495

I'll spot weld some braces to hold the shape.

(Using my home-made spot-welder..) :cool:

1496

I'll take more pix once I get it all together!

- - - Updated - - -

I'll still have to add the frame extension to make sure it locks in place, this is just to get the vat-liner to be directly over the LCD screen.

acnow
07-07-2016, 01:37 AM
To avoid vat lifting, I've added a few printable holders to keep the vat in place, download/fork on Onshape from here (https://cad.onshape.com/documents/0e3d38a0100b7626f3d43e26) or on Thingiverse from here (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1520741) :

Have fun ;)
@woale.. I am finally printing this! What software do you usually use to open files from thingverse into solidworks? Can you talk more about that flow process in terms of software..? We need to open your files and later convert them so that we can print them via nanoDLP.. I wonder if you can expand on that? Thanks!

bolsoncerrado
07-07-2016, 10:10 AM
nanoDLP supports .STL natively now...

acnow
07-18-2016, 11:05 PM
Whaaaaaa???? Can you attach vid of what it's doing?


- - - Updated - - -


Some programs (like nanoDLP as of current build 1140, but not CW of course) allow to less cure the solid inner areas of a print... to keep strength, increase membrane life time and prevent over-curing. It's a bit like infill on FDM printers, but with the walls (without dimming) measured in pixels ;)

Hi @angrypanda and @woale: I wonder if you could help me with something that is happening with this file http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1520741 .. I have downloaded that file and I have uploaded it to my nanodlp but the screen that comes up is entirely in black (all the layers are in black).. When I downloaded the stl file with the Vat Holder from the NanoDLP the sliced layers are in black. I wonder if you encountered similar problem and what could be a solution? Thanks a lot!

AngryPanda
07-22-2016, 09:34 PM
Hi @acnow,

I have not setup my Morpheus to run on Nano yet. I dont have any advice on this one. Sorry pal.

bolsoncerrado
08-24-2016, 11:44 AM
@Angrypanda did you finish your superVAT and printed with it?

I'm following a similar path and ordered these two:


http://i.imgur.com/JWp3Zrm.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/OPSNS3B.jpg


Need to still do the horizontal bar and a way to create a frame to keep the vat on place hmmmm....

bolsoncerrado
10-25-2016, 10:08 AM
Just completed printing the new frame adapter for the 3dfacture vat... quite satisfied!1546

karthik.pdy
02-03-2017, 12:31 PM
hi, I like to create a top down printer.
anyone knows the wiring diagram, how the led module connected with Ramps ?

acnow
07-25-2017, 11:56 PM
Hi Guys: I had a good run with my Morpheus Mark IV and now I am selling it at a good price.. Let me know if any of you is interested in buying it,
thanks! AC
http://www.ebay.com/itm/282586636328...84.m1558.l2649 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/282586636328?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1558.l2649)

bolsoncerrado
07-26-2017, 07:58 AM
No need to spam us further tho! LOL