View Full Version : The Printing Lounge

02-10-2017, 06:25 PM
This is a place to shoot the breeze and give thought to anything and everything.
Keep it civil, please.

02-10-2017, 06:40 PM
My favorite test print is the 3D Systems Rook.
2 hours on PLA with plenty of features to discern issues with your printer or filament.

At one time, 3D Systems sent me the rook to test the printer.

Anyway, since I am collecting a number of these, I thought these could become gnomes.
I was thinking we start leaving them in places we visit like Starbucks, the grocery store, DMV...

I wonder just how long it will take for you to start seeing your prints another time.

Whatever your favorite test print is, let me know what you think of this idea.

What luck... found the thingiverse version.
Odd, appears to be exactly the same as 3D Systems version :p


02-11-2017, 07:02 PM

Working on a printed re-winder.

So far so good.
Wound a stock spool within a few minutes.

Updates from the image is a taller holder for the 3DS spool with a little less clearance.

just screw the two spool flanges to a piece of wood or bolt them into your workbench... whatever :p

A little Lego device that can layer better on the target spool would be cool.
We can drive Lego with the teeth on the 3DS spool.

Some notes:
The handle presses into the ring. It has about 10 degrees of freedom. It is snug fit, but spins easily when winding.

02-12-2017, 04:14 AM

I need to know how to best remove acrylic adhesive completely.


Magnets are 18.98mm x 2.35mm

Pockets are 19.4mm on 64mm center; 2.65mm deep.
Pattern centered on an overall 170mm x 170mm; corner radii ~R3mm.

02-12-2017, 02:53 PM
It's a good idea, also think of using a rotating base like the old TVs or the cakes:


http://www.ebay.es/itm/Soporte-Base-Giratoria-Para-Tarta-Pastel-Plastico-Blanco-Decorativo-ReposteriaHO-/251753962868?hash=item3a9db49d74:g:ZvAAAOSw7ThUiqj X

02-12-2017, 05:53 PM
I actually have a nice marble version. For the source spool, you want the resistance, but yes, great idea for the target spool.

02-13-2017, 01:40 AM
Xylene... that takes off just about everything. :( Horrible stuff!

And it also melts the original print-bed plastic material.

As to the plastic used, it is almost mirror polish on the adhered side.
If you can peel it off cleanly, you will probably have a clean adhesive surface to re-apply your own material.

This material is very shiny but scratches easily on the adhered side. It is 0.8mm thick (1/32"?)
It appears to have a filler. It snaps when it breaks and can leave sharp edges. S
cores easily, and breaks along score within reason.

Remember that this is an earlier material that does not pit as later versions do with ABS!


The plate after some serious scouring. Wiped the plastic with xylene which now display an interesting texture.


And after all that, alumina plate included, I ended up having to adhere with tape! :confused:
The alumina is just too cold to the touch, and too smooth to hold anything even using Cube-Glue.


In the end, I will probably order a new plate from 3DS. This one will be a nice test unit for heating.
I have no experience with a heated bed.

02-14-2017, 01:04 AM
Seems to require a thermal barrier. I put a very thin "post-it" type tape on there and it worked well with glue on that.

What is the magic behind the blue tape that creates such a good hold?

02-14-2017, 03:28 AM
White polycarbonate? ...and later replaced with white Delrin?

02-14-2017, 04:32 AM
Ha! I put the apex magnet in upside down! And it's working!! :p Sorta.....

Oops, not upside down... I put the tray in backwards!

Did a nice job on the knight.

02-14-2017, 11:54 AM
The biggest impression made on my Cube3, I had to turn it because there was space in the bed!


02-14-2017, 12:38 PM
J******DER tio! El p*to amo!! xD Bravo!!!

A que le das? Coches? Helis?

02-14-2017, 12:58 PM
Thank you! I fly airplanes and racing drones .. My nick of war: Ironman

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These are my custom engine protectors:

02-14-2017, 06:54 PM
Excellent!!! If only I had the ability to actually fly a drone instead of clipping all the hedges.

02-17-2017, 12:37 AM
Here is a single wall geometric widget...

02-23-2017, 03:06 AM


02-23-2017, 04:30 AM
Worked a little on my dual extruder profile for simplify3d and did some comparisons to cube print. Looks like I have it about right to get some good prints. Only issue is that I have to use a prime tower with simplify3d but I have a good idea of what I need to change to no longer need it.

edit- Forgot to mention that my cube glue wasn't dry when I did the simpidy3d cube and the sides were curling up since they weren't being held down





02-23-2017, 06:20 AM
You have a lot of patience, M. :) What's with the sag on the Simply3D cube?

I now have a couple of "Fossil" key-chains in 2 color prints. They work great with cube's slicer.
Good filament tester!

02-23-2017, 06:37 AM
I had forgotten to put that the cube glue wasn't dry on the simplify3d cube so it wasn't stuck enough to prevent warping. they were both printed in abs.

02-23-2017, 02:38 PM
Also Im assuming you're all on 1.0 patched firmware? Can you use PLA or ABS no matter what in either of the sides of the Cube?

02-23-2017, 03:04 PM
I'm using 1.0 of the firmware hack. Yes I can use pla or abs on either side.

03-09-2017, 06:49 AM
Just to confirm the magnets.
I just received some 3/4" x 1/10" N42 Neodymium magnets.
Promptly busted one new one and one of the originals. Fortunately, they all seem to be identical.

This is the eBay listing I got them from. The supplier is a USA supplier.


I need to know how to best remove acrylic adhesive completely.


Magnets are 18.98mm x 2.35mm

Pockets are 19.4mm on 64mm center; 2.65mm deep.
Pattern centered on an overall 170mm x 170mm; corner radii ~R3mm.

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Doing a 70um print to see how bad it is.

And tomorrow new supplies are coming.

What's everyone else up to!

03-09-2017, 08:54 PM
Tom, what program do you use to make the threads in your models? I'm designing something and have used a tap in the hole I want threaded, but have noticed that human error can cause the threads to not be perfect. The test bolt I put in has a slight wobble when the piece is spun. I'd like to do the threads in the model.

03-09-2017, 11:36 PM
I use the current version of Pro Engineer which is Creo.
I have to define the treads though.

SolidWorks '16 will now do helical threads.

So if you can do helical sweep cuts in a CAD program, WIKI has a good profile for both metric and English


03-10-2017, 04:08 AM
I've been using tinkercad to do my model. It's cheap and easy, just the way I like it. I found that there's a metric thread generator where I just put in the diameter and pitch and it creates a model with threads on it, turn that from a solid to a hole and it's easy metric female threads through the middle of the model. I may thread chase it but I want the threaded rod on there tight so we'll see.

03-10-2017, 05:05 PM
I am amazed at how well this printer is doing on M5 threads. Yes, chase it due to the stop/start blob. Once chased, it takes quite a bit of pull-out torque. Obviously you should have the hole somewhat perpendicular to the print layers.

Nice find in the Tinkercad threads!!!

You do know the pilot for a metric thread is easy to calculate, right?
And for others... The pilot hole for a metric thread is the size of the thread minus the pitch.
That mean the pilot hole for an M6 x 1 thread is 5mm diameter.

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Okay, the hack is failing me!
Yesterday a print stopped extruding...
I removed the cartridge and put it aside in disgust...

Later in the night I looked at it to unclog it...
Sure enough, it was empty! :o

03-10-2017, 07:09 PM
Which was the issue then?

03-10-2017, 07:34 PM
He ran out of filament 😁

03-10-2017, 08:02 PM

03-10-2017, 09:17 PM
Finally, my army is complete!


About 50 hours of printing with the Hatcbox filament.

And 50 to go :)

03-11-2017, 12:13 PM
Nice ivory looking ;)

03-12-2017, 03:42 AM
I was thinking terracotta...

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Do this with your dual extruder :)

This technique could mix dual extruders and unlimited colors on to mix with it.

Good day for Vaazes :rolleyes: That Teal stuff if glow-in-the-dark! Should be fun.


03-12-2017, 08:08 AM
What the f....ruit!?

Did you weld filaments togheter or just hotswapped spools or what? lol

03-12-2017, 08:47 AM
Uuuuugh!!! I've been trying to tell you! HotSwap! That is what pause is for. Leave the tip in place and swap out filament in one of a number of ways. once you resume the printer, it purges in the waste tray and on it goes. It is simply a pause/resume function, but nothing rushes you to do anything. Just don't remove the hot-end.

03-12-2017, 02:08 PM
What vase model is that? My warden would like that.

03-12-2017, 05:58 PM
One of mine...

However, uploads are not working :(

Grab the ZIP here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0By-9ThR4U7GkbHB5SlBNNUdwUWM/view?usp=sharing

03-12-2017, 10:31 PM

Uploads work for me! Burn that damn Windoze down!

03-21-2017, 10:02 PM
It worked great a week ago :p

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The LEGO filament boat...


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Adding a little steampunk to my Quby...


Still a little too much play in the feeder tube even with the stiffer outer tube.
This should solve it.
Standard 1/8" brass hobby tubing. This is trapped end to end. The driver was drilled out to 1/8".
The fit is loose, just trapped in the cartridge when you add the outside cover.

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A little something for those that know how to make use of this...

03-21-2017, 11:29 PM
Nice rosette!! ;)

(What for?!)

03-22-2017, 01:26 AM
Just put two and two together and you get.... (?)

If you don't know you don't need one, or two, or a whole collection with your KISS bulkheads.

03-22-2017, 11:21 AM
What the !?!?!? :P

03-28-2017, 04:22 PM
These last few days was about conversion How do we get BFB to .Cube3

When we have a tool on hand that does what we want a generic dataset to do, I really think it is worthwhile to review what Microsoft did with their partners.

We may not have to. ...but the price is reliance on a USB interface. Many will argue the Cube's WIFI is lousy enough where USB connectivity is not a problem.

It is a device, it is recognized as a plug-n-play device through the drivers as is required by M$.

Of course, I am talking about 3D Builder and the means to communicate what 3D Builder does to print to The Qube directly.
What if we can pump a .bfb file right through to the core of the bfb conversion provided by 3D Systems themselves.
And it looks like 3D Systems provided the slicer as well, and this too is raising some opportunities.

What I found in the SDK set, and the 3D Builder app in relation to 3D Systems is that the Cube 3 is not unique in the files provided by 3DS.
It has mention of Cube 1, 2, 3, X, and Pro... and even something called COCOA(?)
And what really prompted me to give an account of my findings so far is that 3D Builder is a much improved print over the Cube dedicated app can do... I am talking 500% improvements without exaggeration!

Right now, 3D Builder passes a 3D facet model, and image, and a short ASCII XML file to the "spooler" (Microsoft managed).
It does this by storing everything in a .3MF file which is actually a .ZIP file. The 3D model is a facet file with a .model extension.
This means that the quality of the 3DS slicer in the spooling routine that is of better quality than the Cube's app.

Still with me?

3DS wanted to have a good showing with M$. You even see references to "COKEBOTTLECAP" in the DLL files referring to EKOCYCLE. This was a huge push by big players!
So did they give away the slicing farm with their proprietary slicer being made publically accessible? Chances are good they did!

So back to the code part...
Why wouldn't we be able to bypass the slicer section and force a .bfb conversion through the 3DS pipeline that M$ has established?
The SDK has a lot more files to help take this apart.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0By-9ThR4U7GkaWViTmprSjZXbFE This is the full SDK folder zipped up.

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Does Yakima Slicer mean anything to anyone? Associated with Fabrikam.

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Sure got quiet around here ... HELLOOOOoooooooo.................!

03-29-2017, 03:25 AM
Heh. Yeh it's gotten quiet. I've been busy and haven't even printed anything in almost 2 weeks. Haven't had a chance to look through any of the files that you've posted yet.

03-29-2017, 08:04 AM
Thanks... I've been printing a lot of ABS lately. I really do want to get to the bottom of this.
I'm still reviewing things on Microsoft's 3D site. It really is all well spelled out, but you need a little insider knowledge I lack.

But here's the rundown... If Microsoft forced 3D Systems to give up code that could send a g-code file to the Cube3, that would be like source code!

The thing is, you have to wrap a program around the libraries. Isn't that what you've been doing?

Anyway, I'll keep looking. So far, my Windooze10 print driver is all messed up. It now loads the driver and looses the "special" Com3 connection.

03-29-2017, 08:18 AM
Im still not sure on which path to follow on the filament feeding :(

03-29-2017, 08:53 PM
This still requires a lot of testing.

I bet 3DS engineers are all bald now :)

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The problem with plosives only came up with ABS. I have yet to see this in PLA.
And I've printed a lot with PLA using the OMG modular nozzle.
I just don't have huge stock of ABS. I have 2 stock carts and a 2kg spool of yellow.
I am just relieved at this point that the filament is not the problem.
But it does make the problem much bigger.

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Just a dumb thought... but why not upgrade the Cube Pro FW to work in Cube 3?

The Cube Pro software has a lot more hooks into the system, including jet temperature calibration.
Seems we could take apart the FW to include Cube Pro functionality.

03-30-2017, 08:10 AM
That would be awesome, since its the same mb...

03-30-2017, 07:23 PM
Was doing a ABS print,it all sticked well to the plate and then the feeder decided to quit...Had to take a good one from another cartridge as the one that came with ABS cart kept destroying the filament no matter what...Werd stuff

03-30-2017, 07:54 PM
Funny. I wonder what went wrong there. The only feeder problem I've seen was getting filled will stripped material.

I am really liking the "raft" that 3D Builder makes for ABS. It sticks amazingly well that way. And it is much easier to remove from the build plate.
The only issue comes in when you want to clean up that last raft later on your part.

I have yet to learn if there is a true difference between the ABS and PLA cartridges except the little dot on the driver/feeder.

03-30-2017, 08:44 PM
Here is one of the "stone age feeders" I got on a ABS cart lol.
This probabbly was one of the first ones.


03-30-2017, 09:53 PM
Yep, that looks just line mine.
Maybe just a bad cut on the gripper itself (?).

03-31-2017, 09:24 AM
Yep, that looks just line mine.
Maybe just a bad cut on the gripper itself (?).

Don't know,I'll inspect today what could be causing that.

03-31-2017, 04:47 PM
Factory screw-up.

03-31-2017, 10:07 PM
Seems like the feeder was grinding the filament instead of feeding.Probabbly was the z-gap too close to print platform.

04-08-2017, 08:55 PM
That will do it. It could also be there is a level of restriction in the feeder line.
I've noted something about the older cartridges with the white overmold-gray nozzle housings.
When they over-molded the nylon onto the Teflon tube, they got a little too hot and created some restriction.
I keep a section of filament that as run through the feeder to check the restrictions in stock tubes.
This also accounts for restriction from the round nuts.
Some of these restrictive cartridges acted like old filament.
In fact, even though old, the filament would run fine in a good feeder system.
So there is a lot of bad bits remaining in old stock.

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WhooHoo!... No more unbalanced fan noise!

04-09-2017, 02:20 AM
WhooHoo!... No more unbalanced fan noise!

You could have just glued a lead weight to one side of the fan like they do on car wheels. :p:rolleyes:
Actually, duct tape might work better. Duct tape fixes everything!

(The guy that owned our house before us fixed some of the plumbing with duct tape. Needless to say, we had to replace some of the flooring and drywall.)

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By the way, why do people say "needless to say" and then say it anyways? LOL

04-30-2017, 05:30 PM
It already ate the bearing. It was just a factory blem. This machine has always been noisy. Not a problem anymore.
It is still a nice little hobby fan at lower input. but inside The Qube, it just droned.

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This is interesting... magnet calculator.

Right now, the build plate is held down with about 20lbs of down force.

With the B-glass build plate, I could double this with ease.


Our magnets are N42 3/4" round x .094" thick.

Proposed magnet: N52 3/4" round x .125 thick.

The best you can stuff in the stock plate is .10" ...which I cannot find in N52.

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This is a long time project finally completed...
Self Energized Battery holder.

18650 x 2


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Today is a lounge day since I got the final part from China for the cartridge mods.
This was 4mm PTFE tubing that was -much- nicer than the recent order.
It fits a tractor'd filament and even the melt bulb.
Now to see how well it lasts in the fittings.

Also working on some cabinet repair parts.
High time to replace drawer track ends again :(
Those blocks take a long time to print.

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Ha! Just did a successful cartridge refill on a stock cartridge while printing a 3 hour print.
Continued like nothing happened!

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Anyone else have some "fabrics" laying around?


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Whoohoo! ;)

Yesterday I was able to print an M6 thread on the vertical wall.
Printed and chased with the modified screw.


Anyone care to guess at what this is?


04-30-2017, 06:00 PM
Whats the self powered energizer cell thing for?

Are the fabrics squares "connectable"? Perhaps a vid would help ;)

No cues on your last pic, wheres the brown o ring from?

05-01-2017, 05:30 PM
The o-ring is Viton. Just scraps lying around.

But the device is a solution looking for a problem.

The battery holder is just something I've needed for a long time... a way to series 2 18650 Li-ion cells.

The fabric was a test to see how I can get the 1st layer to behave in ABS.
Really tough to get a decent "fabric" that is strong enough.
I have a little chainmail version that still need to try.

Here's another I've been working on for a long time, but it has a specific requirement that I cannot source other than scrap recovery.
This was made with the remaining Esun natural PLA. Very brittle stuff, much like Hatchbox.
The flashlight is an SingFire SF348. Very popular little single mode flashlight that takes AAA or 10440 Li-Ion.


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This is Inland PLA. Another successful M6 edge thread.
I used the bold with 2 scallops out of the threads to clean up the print.

If you don't chase the threads, I have no doubt it would split.

Okay... someone's gotta have figured out what I am making here :confused:

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A couple more hints...


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I never thought a vertical thread would survive.
The second one is set to Strong (2 layers instead of 5) and it still survived.
Live and learn :)

05-01-2017, 07:03 PM
What the fruit is that!?

05-01-2017, 07:48 PM
You're suppose to guess!

05-01-2017, 11:37 PM
It's a Moss-Covered Three-Handled Family Gradunza!

05-01-2017, 11:58 PM
NO BLEEPIN' WAY! How did you know that?


05-02-2017, 07:38 AM

05-02-2017, 04:39 PM
Fine... it's a linear strain gauge.

This is what happens with stock Cube 3 tubing from the cartridge to the tip.
The tubing is thin enough to become longer under pressure.

With 4mm tubing, there is less extension with a given pressure.

I am trying to solve the clicking problem during purge with some filaments.
Those skips are really bad during a print because of the sudden loss of pressure and filament.

With this tool, I can compare strain and extension of the stock tubing.

For developers, it can be used to understand the pressure provided under various conditions.

The reverse can be made for retract/de-string functions, but that may be less useful.


05-03-2017, 01:29 AM
I am trying to solve the clicking problem during purge with some filaments.
Those skips are really bad during a print because of the sudden loss of pressure and filament.

The only time I had this clicking problem is with the original cartridge system and with my hub with a printed lid. With my hub and both halves of the metal drive mechanism, I don't have this problem at all. Also retraction is greatly improved. I have tried 3 different brands of filament, both PLA and ABS.

05-23-2017, 09:59 PM
It is the Hatchbox and eSun filament that has the "crispiness' added to its PLA.
It is notorious for clicking on purge and sometimes on particular print patterns.

The reasoning for pursuing this is more toward "Design Intent".
A given is that the stock tube stretches under pressure; significantly.
It is therefore also a given that the retract/de-string 1st has to release the
extended tubing back to the relaxed state before the nozzle is actually affected.

This leaves us with 2 questions:
1) Was this stretching of the tube accounted for in the retract/de-string function?
2) Was it the intent to have the tubing acts as a strain relief?

Hardware hacking efforts have been focused solely on stiffening the system.
We achieved that.
Did we introduce a new performance hit? An exploitable one?

3DS did solve compatibility issue in their systems by being the sole filament provider.
Any 3rd party filament problems does not meet specification -because- it is not OEM.

One of the patterns that caused various skip problems are first and foremost filament problems.
However, diamond patterns have a way of heating up a length of the filament in the nozzle from the repeated retract operations.
This warms up the Teflon tubing, which in turn starts a longer melt.
In the stock system, this is what gets jammed at the round nut in the nozzle, or whatever else it find to bind thing up.
It then starts clicking, -releasing filament pressure, -letting the melt cool outside the hot zone, -clicks again, -rinse/repeat.
We are not yet immune to potential issues from "over-cycling" a de-string operation. Vastly improved, yes.

I too have had much better carefree prints since giving up stock cartridges.
Or at the very least, finally knowing exactly what to look for.
It is true that many are simply junk!
Definitely worth salve though.

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Finally saw the 30 second "cartridge replaced" error.

More protectionist code.

Swapped out a 2% cartridge for a 0% cartridge.
It resumed the print but that prompts the error.
So there is still handshaking going on with the chip throughout the print.
More than just "present" signals.

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New development of the positive kind...

When I received my 2rd replacement white printer, both cartridges were printing very thin prints and a lot of failures.
No matter how well I cleaned up the original nozzle, it just kept failing.

This white and green 3DS filament have been floating around for about 8 months.
My wife was going to try it on her weed eater.

She never did and I decided to see if this is workable in the new filament feeding systems we've all been developing here.

Sure enough! The White is printing beautifully! The neon green is printing and so far, so good.

Point being; what we often blamed as bad or old filament is actually a poor tubing system.
These were the early units with the white & gray nozzle housing.
These have a history of distorted Teflon tubing under the nylon caterpillar over-mold.
So the problem is not old filament, it is in fact bad fabrication of the tubing.

05-24-2017, 01:08 AM
It is the Hatchbox and eSun filament that has the "crispiness' added to its PLA.
It is notorious for clicking on purge and sometimes on particular print patterns.

The reasoning for pursuing this is more toward "Design Intent".
A given is that the stock tube stretches under pressure; significantly.
It is therefore also a given that the retract/de-string 1st has to release the
extended tubing back to the relaxed state before the nozzle is actually affected.

This leaves us with 2 questions:
1) Was this stretching of the tube accounted for in the retract/de-string function?
2) Was it the intent to have the tubing acts as a strain relief?

Hardware hacking efforts have been focused solely on stiffening the system.
We achieved that.
Did we introduce a new performance hit? An exploitable one?

3DS did solve compatibility issue in their systems by being the sole filament provider.
Any 3rd party filament problems does not meet specification -because- it is not OEM.

One of the patterns that caused various skip problems are first and foremost filament problems.
However, diamond patterns have a way of heating up a length of the filament in the nozzle from the repeated retract operations.
This warms up the Teflon tubing, which in turn starts a longer melt.
In the stock system, this is what gets jammed at the round nut in the nozzle, or whatever else it find to bind thing up.
It then starts clicking, -releasing filament pressure, -letting the melt cool outside the hot zone, -clicks again, -rinse/repeat.
We are not yet immune to potential issues from "over-cycling" a de-string operation. Vastly improved, yes.

I too have had much better carefree prints since giving up stock cartridges.
Or at the very least, finally knowing exactly what to look for.
It is true that many are simply junk!
Definitely worth salve though.

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Finally saw the 30 second "cartridge replaced" error.

More protectionist code.

Swapped out a 2% cartridge for a 0% cartridge.
It resumed the print but that prompts the error.
So there is still handshaking going on with the chip throughout the print.
More than just "present" signals.

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New development of the positive kind...

When I received my 2rd replacement white printer, both cartridges were printing very thin prints and a lot of failures.
No matter how well I cleaned up the original nozzle, it just kept failing.

This white and green 3DS filament have been floating around for about 8 months.
My wife was going to try it on her weed eater.

She never did and I decided to see if this is workable in the new filament feeding systems we've all been developing here.

Sure enough! The White is printing beautifully! The neon green is printing and so far, so good.

Point being; what we often blamed as bad or old filament is actually a poor tubing system.
These were the early units with the white & gray nozzle housing.
These have a history of distorted Teflon tubing under the nylon caterpillar over-mold.
So the problem is not old filament, it is in fact bad fabrication of the tubing.

I blamed bad filament/carts until I did my little mod for the hot end. That's all it took for the same filament to work fine and give me good prints. I still have some 3DS filament that's printing fine now.

05-24-2017, 08:52 PM
Yep, that's what I am finding on those two spools.
I do like the color density of 3DS filament.
But more neon green prints... that may take some getting use to.

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New Cube 3's at $249/free shipping in U.S.A.


This is still the best deal around.

Something is wrong with this listing because it is not easily found.

05-24-2017, 10:03 PM
Seller is "too new"?

05-24-2017, 11:58 PM
I've watched the clearance run from East to West across the USA.
It finally hit California.

Free shipping is a huge deal when things move cross-country.

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Oh look, only $278.41 USD shipping to your house, Bo :p You'll have it by the weekend!

Paypal and eBay protected; not too worried. Buyers are much more protected than sellers.

This one is cheaper on shipping to you and many more ratings... $128

05-25-2017, 08:16 AM
Wow thats pretty competitive indeed! Thanks! :)

05-28-2017, 07:12 PM
12-1/2 hours of print time on the Cube reduced to 7:55. I don't get it.

This one came close to the 50Mb file size limit.
3mm posts are very strong (2 layers).
Because this is the crisp Hatchbox filament, the supports came off easily.
I can see a 70um print taking 24 hours.


I used a 20 degree MeshMixer threshold; 3mm tip and 3mm diameter.
Added a lot of supports after the auto-support routine.

Nice that we can finally save settings!

05-28-2017, 09:28 PM
if only the top of the top layers wouldnt look like that :(

awesome print anyway

05-30-2017, 02:11 AM
In ABS, 3D Builder would do a better job at 200um.
70um would be awesome but awful long!

- - - - - - - - - -

Flip boxes... and yes, it was landscape when I shot this!


05-30-2017, 10:24 AM
So cool! The box is STL too? :D

07-04-2017, 07:57 PM
You can have this one...

- - - - - - - - - -

Ha! Love this:
Too freakin' smart for its own good.
Someone forgot about functionality as a requirement.



{montage of dozens of solutions}

- - - - - - - - - -

Must have finally got lucky.
Have 2 nozzles running and they are exactly the same depth!

Qube Central


- - - - - - - - - -

This is a worthwhile find...


Print welding? Rivets? etc...

07-05-2017, 08:41 AM
Some nice tricks indeed!

07-12-2017, 04:38 PM
New Cube 3 on eBay for under $200/shipped conus!

Seems there is a new push to reduce inventory.
Last time they got down to $170/shipped.

07-12-2017, 08:19 PM
yup been there ($170shipped). Wohoo! :D

07-15-2017, 07:14 PM
Anyone interested in making mid-sized screw driver tools for your Cube?

I ended up with a Ryobi set of bits where many are duplicates.
So I made a press-fit screwdriver handle to deal with long and short 1/4" drive tips.

I have a long filament driver (S2 square drive), long generic #2 Phillips, and the non-duplicate short 2mm, 2.5mm, 3mm, and 4mm dual end hex drives.
I guess I need a #1 Phillips also for the case screws.

Anything I am overlooking?
edit: T10 torx


07-15-2017, 09:07 PM
COol idea, as usual! :D

07-15-2017, 09:33 PM
I can't be the first!

Going on Thingiverse at some point, but here you go...
Printed at lp12101 (Left, PLA, 200um; Strong; Cross; no Supports, yes Sidewalks)
I print these in pairs for better cooling cycles.

You might cancel the print at 1/2" (12mm) or so to see what to expect for fit.
There is a lead-in chamfer, so be patient.
These are not quick prints by any means!

PrintRBot translucent orange PLA :cool:.

These are all double-ended.
Short bits for the stubby one and long bits for the handles.
The #1 Phillips works very well on the corner screws in the Cube housing.

Depending on your printer, the bits will be tight to just snug.
Don't be afraid to use a hammer if you plan to leave them configured this way.
You'll know when they hit bottom.
If the tips fall out, scale it down in Cube's Print app.

The hex in the STL file is set to 6.6mm (1/4" is 6.35mm).
You can also scale it if you need an adjustment.

Anyone is free to muck with these models.
The strength is in the toroid style construction as printed.
In addition, there are "torsion fills" in the middle.
Just thought I'd point out what you're looking at.

07-16-2017, 01:46 AM
Download links appear to be broken.

07-16-2017, 02:24 AM

07-16-2017, 03:02 AM
Works now. Thanks.

07-16-2017, 06:49 AM
Didnt touch anything! :?

07-16-2017, 04:45 PM
WOW! eBay $150 w/free expedited shipping conus...
I couldn't say no to that!

- - - - - - - - - -

Didnt touch anything! :?

Restricted uploads: .STL not zipped; .cube3 zipped or not. Anything else not allowed?

07-16-2017, 06:36 PM
wow! Ebay $150 w/free expedited shipping conus...
I couldn't say no to that!


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cube-3D-Wireless-Printer-3rd-Generation-Grey-391100/182663769372?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%2 6asc%3D44759%26meid%3Dd4320241618049eeb9053a361812 6a6a%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D6%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D2630 68420638


With 0 fb?

Sounds fishy!

07-16-2017, 07:24 PM
Cali is not far from here :)

Either I get a printer or hell will be unleashed.

And how about a persuader for the driver handles...

07-16-2017, 08:47 PM
Get me a couple if you're gonna pick'em up lol

07-18-2017, 03:45 AM
... not too bad for a 3D Hubs verification print :)

07-18-2017, 10:30 AM
That's 0,20 rite? cared to try 0,07?

07-30-2017, 05:47 PM
I know better. I am not offering 70um prints on 3DHubs.

...and you know without all the new knowledge, this would never have come out as nice OOTB.

- - - - - - - - - -

Who needs bearings for a spinner!


- - - - - - - - - -

...and I completed the 3D Hub verification process.
Now that's a comprehensive qualification!

- - - - - - - - - -

No support on Cheeky Monkey mod...


Still impressive!

- - - - - - - - - -

Bo, are your Cube 3's earning their keep on your 3D Hub?

07-30-2017, 10:47 PM
I dont do 3DHubs, too many people, too many parameters, I dont like the platform.

07-30-2017, 10:51 PM
Are they earning their keep anyway? :)

07-31-2017, 08:19 AM
From what?

07-31-2017, 04:21 PM
Making prints that generate income...

07-31-2017, 05:22 PM
I guess they do, they're still alive and they were the first...

08-01-2017, 04:08 AM
Received a nice bright orange filament sample from 3D Solutech today.

1st impression... it sticks to LokBuild!


Review forthcoming...

08-01-2017, 09:06 AM
I keep pringing with Bq for now, cheapest on my area so far. I need hairspray for the lockbuild but thats ok.

So far PEI seems the only magic surface that works on almost every scenario.... Note I said "almost".

The ONLY magic surface that is dumbproof is still glass+hairspray combo.

08-01-2017, 04:40 PM
Or tape... but it peels the tape instead of the part when the part curls.

I tested this because they were willing to send me a sample.
And their color is fairly vivid.


- - - - - - - - - -

...and it adds more types to our database :)

08-02-2017, 07:41 AM
I guess u didnt print it like that right? haha

08-02-2017, 07:54 PM
Ha! Yea right.

Funny thing this morning...

Ran a new clamp print on the remaining orange test filament.
I was all ready to change the filament for the last few layer.
The print completed with only 1cm of filament left before the filament driver.

Couldn't do that again in a million years even if I tried!

08-02-2017, 08:05 PM
Been there!! haha

08-06-2017, 04:28 PM
Aiming for the Lite version of the hub:


I am liking this M5 thread cut in the driver.
Do it once and covered forever.
I also crafted a copper tube inside to manage feeding filament.
No-fail feeding :)

Print time is now under 3 hours.
These parts were printed using this version.


2294 (lovin' the new logo :cool: )

08-07-2017, 05:45 AM
answered my own question from the PM! FABULOUS. I have some tubing on the way to tinker with inside the drive as well, you beat me to it. rocks, just rocks.

08-07-2017, 08:20 AM
OK guys this forum is more about the internals rather than the externals.... copper tubbing?? inside it?!?! WHERE? HOW? PICSPICSPICS!! :D

08-07-2017, 04:53 PM
Hahaha! I'll pix the next one.

That silly little piece of tube in the driver just past the gear drive.
The stubby tube that still has a barrel nut on it inside the driver, with all its angst.

There are two ways to remove this; one, drill the driver housing just the right size to firmly hold a copper tube (1/8" brass hobby tubing).
Its length is little dependent on the fitting you are using for maximum effectiveness; it will be about 11mm long.
Effectiveness is measured in successful loads; no mis-feeds.
If you drill the housing out to a full 1/8" diameter, the hole will not hold the brass tubing tightly.
In that case, you would solder some wire to the OD to make what works similar to the barrel nut.
This is option 2. Option 2 is probably more reliable and easier to manage.

I do chamfer the ID if the brass tubing. This just helps yet again.

Funny thing is, a little time here will go a long way to trouble free drivers.
From time to time, the drive gear will have to be replaced.
This is a sacrificial component that will continue to wear no matter what we do.
Lubrication (grease) will help if you don't mind the mess.

08-07-2017, 05:59 PM
Dern it tommy, get out of my head! That exactly what I was going to machine. You rock.
On a side note, your inbox is full.

08-07-2017, 09:21 PM
Inbox purged.

08-09-2017, 08:01 AM
My first ABS print ever....


....and I guess this is called "Moisture"?

08-09-2017, 11:11 AM
Just different ABS cart and...


...some layer p0rn going on here!!



08-10-2017, 12:16 AM
Did you print with left or right extruder?

08-10-2017, 12:24 AM
Nice! where can one find that file!! I have 3 extruders but like a dumb-a$$ threw the head away.

08-10-2017, 12:36 AM
Nice! where can one find that file!! I have 3 extruders but like a dumb-a$$ threw the head away.

Bo is testing it right now. I will post it if he doesn't find any issues. Works fine for me so far. You'll still need the metal parts of the print heads.

08-10-2017, 12:40 AM
Bo is testing it right now. I will post it if he doesn't find any issues. Works fine for me so far. You'll still need the metal parts of the print heads.

I saw the post you originally did and loved it. That was on my goal to make and design as well. I have the metal parts ready. Cant wait for it!

08-10-2017, 10:16 AM
The above was done on the right extruder looking at the cube's LCD.... Is that it?

08-10-2017, 03:15 PM
The above was done on the right extruder looking at the cube's LCD.... Is that it?

That's the problem. It is oriented to be printed with the left extruder. To print it with the right extruder, you need to rotate it 180 degrees so the blob shield is facing the right side. This will eliminate the line you are getting on the print head.

08-10-2017, 04:10 PM
This is a good reason to release beta's as .cube3 files.
It assures no issues other than printer randomness.

08-10-2017, 05:05 PM
This is a good reason to release beta's as .cube3 files.
It assures no issues other than printer randomness.

I find it too restrictive.

08-10-2017, 06:01 PM
Err....which line you mean?

08-10-2017, 06:56 PM
Err....which line you mean?

The vertical line running from top to bottom. Normally it would cause a blob along this line which has to be removed for it to fit. The blob shield prevents this from happening but it will not eliminate the line. Rotating this side away from the extruder eliminates the line as well. Try it and you will see what I mean. The print will be much cleaner.

08-11-2017, 12:56 AM
I know exactly what you mean, good thinking, been lucky with some of my previous prints as the blob line was on a corner.

08-13-2017, 11:02 AM
I know Simplify3D has a blob placement tool...if Cubify wouldnt be so crappy for everything else....ugh!

But once the head is placed in the extruder, whats the deal? why would it have to affect printing?

08-13-2017, 12:16 PM
But once the head is placed in the extruder, whats the deal? why would it have to affect printing?

It won't affect printing as long as it fits well. I was just pointing out that it would look much cleaner. If it were sticking out too much, you would have to cut it or sand it to make it fit. Apparently this is not the case for you. It can vary with different brands of filament.

08-13-2017, 09:37 PM
Well I can say it prints fine on both extruders so far, with 3DS filament (ABS).

11-11-2017, 08:02 AM
New trick: gapping a dirty plate.

I have a build plate with glue slurried all over it.
It has a single layer 6" square surround printed with PLA on LokBuild.
When I wet the glue, it remains within these confines.
Makes for a nice quick certain-to-stick print bed (this LokBuild seems to be dead from day 1).

But gapping the nozzle is a PITA...
....had to auto-gap with a different build plate and switch back to the original build plate to do the manual gapping.

Kind of a D'uh! moment when I put a 17cm wide slip of printer paper on the build plate; just lying there.
Now it goes through the routine and lets you set the gap manually when the auto-gap fails.


Now if only that would work for the leveling.

12-06-2017, 06:35 AM
And now back to shooting the breeze...

Check out this 2 day print I did... Wut wuuut it blew my mind


- - - - - - - - - -

Man my phone won't upload the finished plate... Oh well. 46 hours later... Haha the only reason I ran a job that long was I was out of town for the weekend (and I had already did an 18h print with this filament)... So decided to go for it lol. When I got back my roommates were complaining about the droning noise hahah

- - - - - - - - - -

ok this is it, just had to crop it. It's at 70 micron, but I printed the same at 200 and I think the 200 came out better haha (less stray strands)

12-06-2017, 12:31 PM
Yep I did a similar test and 200 micron was FAR BETTER than the 70 micron one...

70 micron is more for organic shapes imho...

01-15-2018, 05:25 AM
So I tried printing Taulman Bridge nylon on my Cube 3 and it works quite well. I didn't even need to use a 3rd party slicer. Just used Cube Print software and set it to ABS. Taulman Bridge prints around 250 and Cube Print software prints ABS at 260. Only slight stringing. The print could have been better but I had moisture in the filament. (This stuff picks up moisture like crazy compared to other filaments.) A lot of popping and cracking during print, but overall came out pretty good.



01-15-2018, 09:31 AM
Great to know, definetly!!

03-14-2018, 02:07 AM
How much lower can they go (?)

I wasn't going to do it. I was going to be more than satisfied with 3 printers... and I got a 4th.
Then I was going to be satisfied with 4 printers... and now this :(

Who can turn down a deal on a new printer with 2 spare new cartridges for $125! + a few $ in octane.

I couldn't either. Shipping normally kills the deal.

All registered and ready to roll. Wait... reload FW!

- - - - - - - - - -

I may have just found a way to salvage those spent 4mm tube fittings. (http://www.print3dforum.com/showthread.php/1236-Salvage-PC4M5-fitting-Bonus?p=43820&viewfull=1#post43820)

Anyone got some ideas on how to cut a clean groove on a 4mm Bowden tube?
The more square the edge, the better. About 4mm from the end about 1.5mm wide, maybe 0.3mm deep?

- - - - - - - - - -

Finally got some ABS that works properly. I have tried 3DS ABS and it was thin and had very poor adhesion...
I tried Inland ABS and it did nothing but pop and sputter creating weak prints.
Then I try the Gold ABS from 3D Solutech which failed worse than both of the above!

So I was really moving toward the Cube 3 not being very good at ABS.


Remember that 3D Solutech sent me a promotional assortment of ABS.
I decided to try the clear natural ABS. I have a small project where I need "almost solid" for a bracket.
Know that "almost solid" draws 5 stripes per wall if it can.
Turns out the clear fused nearly perfectly even with the walls next to is.
It is also the best "translucent" material from a consistency standpoint.
The resulting print is nearly frosted crystal with some hotter section coming out nearly clear.
And it is strong... no layer delamination ...very few plosives (loud pops during printing).

Since I was running out of the clear (10 meter only goes so far) I backfilled it with a cool purple color.
I went and tried printing my earlier versions of the nozzle. First I tested the PLA version to make sure it was still good.
Then I printed this set in the purple ABS...

Excellent hold. Testing the tower on the far side, it is perfectly pliable without cracking. That's a first for me with ABS!

Weird thing, however, is that the purple didn't stick to the clear (1st layer)! But both were a great material on their own merits. I find this intriguing.

Turns out that the ABS version is a little more "off" than the PLA version. The screw-on cap is much tighter. The M5 thread is functional but a lot "softer" than PLA. But the fact that I could force-thread the cap on the housing without it self-destructing is a testament to the better quality of this particular filament.

In all, I think I finally have a functional ABS nozzle printed on a Cube 3!

Here's a link to the file if you want it: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1cWDK1oMLPCUpIrpVwciIkeCWHonczJFK
(can't seem to upload files here anymore)

I also ordered the assortment pack of 3D Solutech's PLA so I can see how these 12 included colors behave.

03-14-2018, 09:31 AM
There's some p0rn in that pic!!

03-14-2018, 04:21 PM
I just blew a mouth full of coffee all over my monitor laughing...

03-15-2018, 02:19 AM
PP - Pr|nterP0rn

- - - - - - - - - -

This is an interesting one... Do we have Thingiverse - barley85 as a user here?

Anyway, on a second read of the text I realized what this person is proposing...
What do you think, guys... gals... ?


03-15-2018, 08:19 AM
1 chip for both readers?

03-23-2018, 01:13 AM
That's what he's saying...

- - - - - - - - - -

It's time to play

"Bogus or Bonus!"




- - - - - - - - - -

Ant problems with your hanging feeders...

ABS from 3D Solutech, BTW.
This is a very nice filament for ABS!
Luck of the draw?



03-23-2018, 01:20 PM
Nope, told you 3D Solutech is my go to and lunging to the top as my favorite. On a side note, that is a beautiful print. Damn I love the Cube 3!

03-23-2018, 04:17 PM
Just got their 12-color PLA pen pack. Easy way to get a good color collection.

BTW, their skin tone color is a bit like light salmon color.

Did you purchase 3D Solutech filament on Amazon? A review will get you free filament :)

03-23-2018, 05:52 PM
I can't remember but by God I will look and see! Free filament is a nice price!!

03-25-2018, 10:48 PM
This is 3D Solutech's ABS red...

Vividness; yes true-red; oh so close :)


- - - - - - - - - -

And one more final version... This one is stronger by virtue that I put a looped tube inside.
Print using ABS, strong, and honeycomb with sidewalks. no need for supports.


- - - - - - - - - -

That's 3D Solutech's "brown" btw...

04-02-2018, 05:33 PM
Terrain puzzle of Telluride, CO and the surrounding area. 130 pieces that each took on average 50mins. Printed in wood-fill PLA and then stained. https://i.imgur.com/F40EHM9.jpg

04-02-2018, 06:35 PM

04-03-2018, 01:48 PM
WOW! That is impressive! All that done with the incredible cube 3??? I know, not all at once.

04-04-2018, 08:26 AM
How did u do the cut thru puzzle pattern? ;)

04-12-2018, 02:37 AM
This is oh-so funny that I can't help but post it.

I've printed a couple of wind spinners with bearing built into them.
It has a little printed block that it spins on and is held by a bamboo sticker.

Twice now a squirrel has chewed the bamboo to remove the spinner, and has removed the holding block from the spinner.
1st time I found the slightly nibbled plastic block a few yard away.
Today, the 2nd time, I find bits of plastic at the base of a tree and no little block.
Spinner is fine and the replacement block fixed things right up.

But what is this squirrel thinking? If you peel the plastics, it'll find a nut inside?
He/she's going to be thoroughly disappointed!

They are completely ignoring the gray spinner next to it.

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNV5XdLQKAp2c2suNMLCBLo384ueardR5OJgUcG3QIPW2 JkwRbktJaePMwRjy9FDw?key=ODZsS0RfbzZjS0JuYmc1LXBQO ExCYkJhUWpwcC13

- - - - - - - - - -

Okay, I'm putting this here to keep the other stuff from getting confounded even more.

I have long desired to take apart the .cube3 files to understand how the 3D Systems slicer deals with certain aspects of slicing.
Knowing the determination of the slicer lets me take full advantage of the stock Cube 3 characteristics.

This case is particularly telling as it is unique to generic volume slicing.

Turns out that 3D Systems offsets the perimeter of your part by 0.21mm.
This logic says that if you want the trace next to the outside trace to fuse, you want the inside trace to be offset by 2x 0.21...
This means an offset of 0.42 x 2 = 0.84 is the thickness of the part in a perfect world.

Sure enough, the world is not perfect. I know, right?

But, the outside dimensions of my parts based on these numbers is within 1% of the nominal (pretty darn good!)
The wall, expected to be 0.86 came out to 0.92 consistently. I definitely expected that since I've never measured a wall much under 0.9.
Even the height came out to 4.04 (vs 4.0) even with my huge 0.23mm nozzle gap.

Anyway, this is the forensic data from code...


You are looking at the original model (white) and it's dimensions, and in blue is the machine code trace based on G1 positions within the BFB file.
Notice the center offset that the Cube 3 consistently uses when you let the Cube 3 app center the parts on the printing bed.
The original STL origin is per the white outline.

Now here is the file as printed...


Now here is the kicker... the two walls are beautifully fused. Surprise! <<== not really.

Now I need to test this with 4x 0.42.
Will it print with 4 traces for the wall or still only 2? What about 4x 0.41? 4 or 2 traces?
Anyone care to lay odds?

Anyone care to do some comparative testing?

- - - - - - - - - -


...but I'm weird and proud of it.

Thanks @swwinterry !

- - - - - - - - - -

Findings for 4-trace walls...

I was hoping for a slightly different result but here is the actual output.
That 0.5mm offset between traces is a problem but both of these created the very similar part;
Same actual wall thickness and same actual overall size ID/OD and Height.
One thing is remaining constant... the 0.21mm offset.

Even at 1.6mm wall, it does print 4 side-by-side traces.


Now to find the cutoff when it switches to 2 traces.

- - - - - - - - - -

Looks like a 1.5mm wall messes everything up. Two traces a mile apart... oh 1.08mm apart. That's 1080 microns BTW :p


- - - - - - - - - -

Some comparison.


Obviously the 1.5mm wall didn't even come close to sticking together. Just the cross-over at the start/end corner is connected.

That tells me that I can try to optimize walls in design just a bit more. A single trace (minimum wall) will be around 0.9mm (900 microns). I can design this down to 0.08mm and I get excellent fusion between layers. Still need to test longer runs than 20mm.

For a double trace wall, I will probably stay with the 1.68mm as a minimum. The 1.6mm is identical by the naked eye but there is obviously a very small difference.

I need to do this for the almost solid too, but this is great information for me.
0.84 and 1.68 are keepers.

04-12-2018, 08:41 AM
You printed these with the Microsoft builder?

04-12-2018, 08:56 AM
Nono...this was right out of the cube 3 app.

04-12-2018, 09:16 AM
Yeah but which slicer? Their app?

04-20-2018, 08:26 PM
Oh... I get you...

No, I am using the cube3_decoder executable in Windows 7.
It's a fairly straight forward cut and paste

To be clear, the CAD images are Creo Parametric (what was once Pro|Engineer).
The slicer file is a .cube3 from the Cube3 application in Windows 7.

save the cube3 file from the Default Cube3 app.
drop the file on the executable
notepad makes quick work of the image characters below the last M107 command in the generated .bfb file
import the .bfb into Excel as text/space delimited/data type text
filter column A with "G1"
highlight columns B,C,&D ctrl-C; then paste that into notepad
in notepad, replace all characters X, Y, and then Z with nothing
optionally remove the purge point locations at the start (2) and the end (8?) of the file
save the file as a .pts file
import the .pts file into Creo CAD and do magic with the numbers

Anyway, yes, I am using what I have at hand to analyze the 3D Systems slicer.
The release of this simple decoder allowed me to do this, finally!

This method can be used for gathering any point cloud.
The software in which you want to use it will have a specific format.
The method described above will yield a space delimited series of X, Y, and Z values in Ascii.

- - - - - - - - - -

Cracked another code in the Cube App slicer...

Design element for designers:

If you want a first-layer trace-only but a solid face following, try the following in your design;
Make your trace width 1.68mm (1.7). This creates a 4-wide trace that fuses reasonably well because the center two traces are stuffed between the first two.
For the most part, it looks like only 3 traces :)
Make this first trace layer 0.20mm deep.
Somehow the layer thickness of "200um" is actually 0.1975mm so it counts for a complete layer.

The next layer surprised me. Now that I have 4 traces lain, the second layer runs 2 traces along the perimeter.
So I have two traces to "stick" the solid layer to... and you'd think... or hope it would just draw all the way across the part.
But no, it stops at the details within the first layer.
This is not a problem as inner traces on the first layer are also 1.68mm wide and therefore the solid print on the second layer has a shelf to tack onto.
Talk about GAP! :) But there is a reason for this. A couple as a matter of fact.

Do you hate printing thing with large surfaces because they always curl on you, or you feel you need sidewalks?
Or the opposite of not being able to release the print from LokBuild when there is a large flat area attached?

I do need to add one thing I noted quickly; your export precision settings do matter.
If any physical width in the print goes to 1.5mm anywhere (tested down to 1.6mm width), the trace count reduces from 4 to 2.

Another design tip is when infill starts.
I need to confirm this, but infill can be avoided if you stay under 7 layers.
For some reason, it always lays 4 layers on the build plate, and it finishes up with 3 layer on the top surface.
This is a nice design tip to keep in mind.
Remember, 0.1975*7=1.3825mm ...or there about will make for a solid print.
The actual print will come out to around 1.5mm when you run a generous gap as I do.

- - - - - - - - - -



- - - - - - - - - -

Ha! Put up or shut up, right?

One thing that occurred to me is that this method of recessing a face would help with ABS.
Done, yes it helps with all the usual caveats.

LokBuild with glue using 3D Solutech Joy-Pack ABS White:

I've been lucky on my other LokBuild sheets but this one's been stubborn.
Repurposed glue to always have glue on the plate; just add water and let dry ... well, sort of.
This plate also has a 6" square moat around it :|

No elephant foot on the 1st layers; no curling (feel the need to knock on wood!).

Just saying that curl avoidance doesn't mean stuffing your print into the build plate.

The treatment is the same as PLA. All the stringy lines -are- attached :p


This kind of treatment could be used on larger rectangular surfaces to relieve some of the thermal stress.
A kind of millennial wicker :p

Not to mention much easier removal of the print from the build plate!

4 out of 5 for 3D Solutech ABS joy-pack refills have been excellent!
Actually, if you wanted to find them, they are Joy-Packs on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=sr_nr_p_6_0?fst=as%3Aoff&rh=n%3A16310091%2Ck%3Apen+pack+filament+3d+solutec h%2Cp_6%3AAP4AKDSS5W569&keywords=pen+pack+filament+3d+solutech&ie=UTF8&qid=1523943067&rnid=126834011
(not spamming.... just sharing!)

I've got a question into them to find out if the formulation is any different from their 1.75mm reels.

- - - - - - - - - -

Time to put a caveat on the previous posts...
Learned something new though.

Ever notice that the infill on the first layer is sometimes pulled far away from the first 2 outer traces?
There is a reason, and it affects the above posts.

Quick narrative is that straight walls (upward) along the side (Z) will follow the rules and guidelines outlined above.

If the part has a taper inward right from the get-go, the above method of "stick relief" or "texturizing" won't work.
When it comes to the second layer, the offset inward of the fill traces do not get staked to the first 4 traces created by the first layer.
This will require more experiments to understand the slicer's behavior.

If you are following where this discussion has been going, this will make more sense.
But if you find yourself some day needing this information, of course I will clarify if I can.

- - - - - - - - - -


A little LokBuild luv.

04-20-2018, 11:12 PM
that last piece looks a bit familiar!

06-15-2018, 05:24 PM
:)... you don't have to count the layers, Todd. This one is based on .16" thickness.

- - - - - - - - - -

Okay, a MeshMixer update alert:

Do you get a message that MM cannot connect to your account with the latest (v3.4) update?

Well, there is aV3.5 that the update-me tool doesn't see for some reason.
I went and got to the download page and created a new account (not knowing if I had another account).
Download overwrites v3.4 and all is transparent again.

Just thought you'd like to know they released this on April 17th, 2018.

Nothing autostarts... you have to click on the Download on the upper right hand corner. This is a safe click.

It will take you to a login page. If you have one, great, if not, create one. The rest is seamless.

- - - - - - - - - -

Another find while you are there...
Find their free slicer... not slicer... Slicer! (you'll get it :) )

- - - - - - - - - -

I've had this full 1kg spool of Inland yellow ABS for quite some time.
After the first print, I realized this is pure junk.
It popped and spit nearly every inch of filament it laid down.
Prints were simply unusable.

Yesterday I tried "drying" it in the oven.
I had it backing between 85 to 107 degrees C (not very controllable!) for nearly 5 hours.

I printed a few things with the backed material. Pops are still there but greatly reduced.
The print is stronger! But still not right.

Lesson learned; you can help poor filament, but you might not be able to correct it.

- - - - - - - - - -

Today I got to test the "live cartridge refill" in the middle of a print.

This is using the fitting-less solution on a KISS cartridge.
I ran the previous filament to within inches of the filament mechanism.
Paused the printer and removed the hot-end connection being careful not to trigger the "head present switch".

The printer stayed in pause mode while I was rebuilding the cartridge.

Mated the cartridge back to the printer and sure enough, the print continued without issues.

Quick note: the M6 version of the new KISS cartridges is a little harder to remove only in the fact that the grippers are still in place.
They may rasp the tubing which is fine (never going to release this tubing!) but the twisting of the nut is not quite as simple as a loosely spinning nut.
Not impossible and certainly not a show stopper. Just a side-note.

And to be sure, the PLA printed nozzle set and the KISS fitting-less solution just ran a completely full stock cartridge with 3D Solutech "Pig-Pink" filament (my name for it).

I am now convinced we have a means to "restore" a stock PLA cartridge with minimal effort and expense.

ABS is to be determined. I will test that theory soon now that I have some clear ABS from 3D Solutech.

- - - - - - - - - -

Blue tubing is pretty :)


Ohhhh... s i l v e r o v e r - b r a i d :o <ooohhhhhh....laaahhhhhhhlahha......>

- - - - - - - - - -

De-Hub :)


Just for fun.
The upper points are the part that rests on the little foam pads on the printer.
Chip pocket is still there. All for the price of an M5 tap.

Now you'd think that you can put the stock spool on there and be happy, right?
Not so fast. This is missing the despooler route (capture of the feed tube).
But for external spools, yep, this is way simple.

06-18-2018, 07:16 AM
How did you cut the PC?

06-18-2018, 03:54 PM
Rotary tool cutoff wheel and sanding drum.

- - - - - - - - - -

Again, I recommend a scroll saw or copping saw just to manage particles.

06-19-2018, 09:59 AM
Do you know if it's PC or just acrylic? I could try cutting one on my laser cutter hmmmm

06-19-2018, 04:25 PM
Good question.
The spool is the only thing marked and it is marked -triangle-7, >PC<.
I'm going to assume all the parts are PC.

A laser edge would be nice!

06-20-2018, 06:31 AM
Lasers cant cut PC "healthy" :(

06-20-2018, 06:36 AM
Never knew that. Where can I find a laser toxin risk list?

06-20-2018, 08:52 AM
Well desktop/semipro lasers (those you could run at home) can (usually) only cut acrylic, wood and paper/cardboard. So the list is quite short for the "healthy" side. Any plastic that contains chlorine (like PVC/Vinyl) is unhealthy for both the owner and the machine.

07-06-2018, 12:39 AM
Good to know, thanks.

- - - - - - - - - -

Interesting new finding:

I've been busy converting a lot of old hub parts to B2B cartridges.
Today I posted the newer style cartridge cover modification to maintain aesthetics and functionality.
And I will confirm here that a scroll saw makes short work of this.
Of course, the marking, cutting, filing and sanding can be as quick as 5 minutes (more time to clean up than the actual work!),
My attempts at near perfection is around 1 hours per cover.
With the window cleared out, you will also find that taking the cartridge apart is quite simple as long as you have a tool to unclip the center tabs.

However, this post is about the really badly damaged caterpillar track covered tubing.
It also means you need to have that exactly 2mm diameter rod of some kind.

What I learned yesterday is in keeping what I know about Teflon (PTFE).
I had a piece of old stock tubing laying around. This is one where a filament will bunch up if it gets too wide from pumping back and forth.
This particular piece clearly showed deformation when the exoskeleton was added to the tubing.
The 6" long 2mm drill rod that I have didn't want to go in at all. After a little convincing, the ID opened up to the original size and the rod was a normal snug fit.
However, the outside remained deformed misshaping the tube and little fuzzies on the surface.

Remember that ABS core for the B2B nozzle? Remember I said it wants a 2.8mm drill run through it?
Well, once I got the core to be the right size to snugly fit the tubing, I could use the core to "restore" the Teflon tubing to its original conditions (okay, 95+% maybe).
I put the rod in the tube and slid the core over the tube with all due caution.
After a while, you will notice that the tube begins to restore its original "extruded" condition.

This means a whole lot more usable tubing is actually available per cartridge.

This is the recovered piece from near the stock hot-end. The threaded parts was obviously cut and discarded.


...this is quite consistent from what I know about Teflon. It only changes shape under certain conditions. Basically, I am restoring it to its natural relaxed state.
For this tubing, its natural relaxed state is as a 2mm ID, 2.8mm OD tube that was deformed when the nylon over-mold was added.

07-06-2018, 04:43 AM
That cleaned up amazingly well... nice discovery!

07-06-2018, 06:15 PM
Now I feel like an idiot... Turns out that common bicycle wheel spokes are 2mm exactly. Do you know how many bicycle spokes I have! :)

07-06-2018, 07:54 PM
Do you collect bicycle spokes?

07-08-2018, 05:12 PM
hahaha... no, other hobby is recumbent trikes.

This is one of those "...forgotten more than you will ever know..." category. Also known as CRS, of course.
When I went to look for some spare 2mm rod online, I ran across a "tool" I used in the early efforts about a year ago.

- - - - - - - - - -

Interesting... I am trying to print up a series B2B parts and ran into something strange.

I ran 6 of the hot-end tube nuts in ABS all in a line across the back of the plate.
Not one mated properly with ABS housing I printed!
Then I printed the very same part as a single with its cooling tower...
Worked perfectly!

Now I am baking up some more bright yellow ABS pasta in the stove.
I am going to retry the ABS orange after 4 hours in the stove last night.

Here is what I am figuring with baking ABS:
Remember how rewinding filament onto a stock 3DS spool would stress the filament inducing stress cracks?
I even had a supplier tell me that doing such would void -their- warranty?
Well, for the Inland Yellow ABS, I am going to try winding this on the 3DS spool and then baking it hoping to relax the filament while drying.
Last time I reversed that process by baking first and winding after. But the filament obviously cooled too quickly to be effective.

- - - - - - - - - -

Only in America! Okay, only at Harbor Freight...

All 115 SAE twist drill bits for $28!


- - - - - - - - - -

This is interesting...

All this time I wanted to make sure I got nice opaque filament similar to the stock 3DS material.
The 3DS material is uniquely opaque compared to the many others I've tried.

3D Solutech has come closest to date.

Today I needed to highlight the cartridge type on the B2B bulkhead adapter.
This is what I found:


I can see this little Sharpie pen set coming in handy over time :)

07-09-2018, 08:33 AM
Dual Sharpie Extruder :D

07-24-2018, 07:28 PM
Instant paint, indeed!

- - - - - - - - - -

Good ABS vs. bad ABS...


On top is the clear filament from 3D Solutech which they replaced promptly.
I wanted to see how this would look next to some quality ABS.
Care to guess what brand the orange is?

I put the clear filament under a microscope and didn't see anything obvious.
All the little missing zones are plosive pops.

Now we all consider these plosive develop over time as moisture is drawn into the plastic (yes, plastic is normally rated for water adsorption in percent).
I considered this too. Another consideration was that a small cavity can merge with others creating larger voids with humidity. This is only hypothesis.

Now consider this; The last image i posted of this problem was with the Inland yellow ABS. I baked a pound of the Inland and started printing with it.
It made zero difference even though I baked it at 150*F for nearly 6 hours and printed as soon as it was back to room temperature.
Then I compared it with unbaked filament. They were exactly the same!
Much better than the clear sample above, but holes from plosive air or moisture were still prevalent.
Yes, it could be a simple air puff if the ABS was aerated at any point in the manufacturing process.

Now to eliminate all the possible variations in the experiment, I used the same nozzle using the B2B bowden solution for easy filament changes.
The cartridge was the same cartridge with an ABS chip.
The bowden tube is the same for all the tests too.
And the same printer, of course.
So the only thing that changed was the filament and the way is was fed into the cartridge.
Yellow baked was on a 3DS spool.
Orange (old) was on a 3DS spool.
Yellow unbaked was a dozen loops outside the cartridge, old filament spool on rollers.
Clear was 10 loops from the spool hanging free outside the cartridge.

- - - - - - - - - -

For a change of pace, care to try out this little benchmark toy?


I printed this with the 3D Solutech white PLA just to see how it would do.

Once you break this in, which doesn't take more than a minute, the nut will spin right off the screw part with just a twist of the fingers.
It really is hard to put down. I am impressed!

- - - - - - - - - -

Another Filaboat ...


Some spare Catrike bearings re-purposed.



07-29-2018, 07:49 PM
Is the filaboat working fine with the dented spools?

07-30-2018, 10:53 PM
Have yet to try it. Works fine manually.

- - - - - - - - - -

How ironic...


Now that I am back to cartridges, these finally show up :)

Anyone care to guess at what they were meant for?

07-31-2018, 10:08 AM
Toilet flush? lol

08-07-2018, 06:57 AM
I guess scale matters :rolleyes:

Not at all... they perfectly grab the loops of the chip contacts.
Add a couple of wires and a solder them to the chip and you have clip-on chip.

Of course, it has to be used with an external spool hub :(

- - - - - - - - - -

This is for those looking for an adjustable filament driver mechanism...

This is -NOT- mine. This is something I found and find intriguing.

Shouldn't require too much modification for the Cube 3.
This also makes the square drive stepper motor more tolerable to the function.


- - - - - - - - - -

Cube 3 torture test :)


3DS way-cool purple ABS

- - - - - - - - - -

...not every hack has to be printed!!!


08-07-2018, 08:05 AM

12-12-2018, 11:29 PM
Is the filaboat working fine with the dented spools?

Finally gave this new FilaBoat a run for its money. Held up perfectly fine; no spills tumbles or tangles.
Ran loose spools, stock spools, and tightly rewound spools. The neon green is bypassed in this image.


- - - - - - - - - -

Today I finally figured out what the Cube 3 is doing when it slows down...

It has something to do with a G-code setting for "minimum layer time".
Apparently, the Cube 3 deals with this two ways;
1) It slows the print velocity...
2) It parks and rests for a period.

Not sure where the 3DS slicer makes the distinction, but now it makes sense.

This is where the Cube Print 4.03 app differs from M$ 3D Builder app.
3D builder knows to slow down on Marvin's loop when printing in ABS.
Cube Print 4.03 just makes a mess of the loop.

This comment applies to printing 1 marvin by itself.
I am suggesting 3D Builder has better thermal management.

I also found the "alternate" raft... literally, raft vs. skirt.
It is an option that showed up in the decoded .cube3 file.
Neither app lets you take control over this setting.

- - - - - - - - - -

I finally feel vindicated about the test print provided by 3D Systems.
Yes, it is a 3D System sliced object...

...back from V1.00 with a minimum FW version of 0.00!

And the notable difference that I've argued more than once...

I've stated in the past that the test print does a sparse fill as compared to current prints on the build plate.
I've tested and proven this to myself over and over again.

Today I finally figured out why.

The two test prints in the F/W drive (the internal SD) has both test prints in a "FT" folder.
When I decompiled the test prints (welcome.cube3) it shows a first layer at 0.38mm
If you look at any current print file, it is set to 0.25mm.

This explains SO MUCH!

And on another note, NONE OF THE KANJI CHARACTERS ARE THERE! In neither file!

This is just further proof that the Kanji data is just the image on the screen.

Here's the header data for both:


^MaterialLengthE1: 501.027
^MaterialLengthE2: 0.000
^MaterialLengthE3: 0.000
^ModelHeight: 2.310
^LayerCount: 12
M227 P550 S550 G450 F600
M228 P0 S550
M231 P0 S0
M232 P5000 S5000
M233 P1000
M106 P100
G4 P45
M601 P2 S60 F5
M228 P0 S5
M227 P1 S1 G500 F500
M601 P8 S60 F5
M240 S450
M204 S120 P1
M104 S173 P1
G1 X-103.500 Y0.000 Z5.3800 F750.0
M104 S215
G4 P15
M551 P850 S50
G1 X-88.500 Y0.000 Z5.3800 F7000.0
G1 X-103.500 Y0.000 Z5.3800 F7000.0
M104 S215 P1
M601 P2 S60 F5
G92 X0 Y0 Z-0.080

^MaterialLengthE1: 665.144
^MaterialLengthE2: 0.000
^MaterialLengthE3: 0.000
^ModelHeight: 2.310
^LayerCount: 12
M227 P400 S400 G750 F1000
M228 P0 S400
M231 P0 S0
M232 P5000 S5000
M233 P1000
M106 P100
G4 P45
M601 P2 S60 F5
M228 P0 S5
M227 P5 S5 G500 F500
M601 P8 S60 F5
M240 S450
M204 S200 P1
M104 S230 P1
G1 X-103.500 Y0.000 Z0.3800 F750.0
M104 S260
G4 P15
M551 P500 S50
G1 X-88.500 Y0.000 Z0.3800 F7000.0
G1 X-103.500 Y0.000 Z0.3800 F7000.0
M104 S260 P1
M601 P2 S60 F5
G92 X0 Y0 Z-0.10

- This is really strange, Alex... When I pasted these from Excel, all my M601 Pn S60 F5 changed to S-60! Dangerous for sharing code!-

My how little things change... (http://cubify.s3.amazonaws.com/public/bfb/d100253_bfb-3000_set_up_and_operations_manual_v3-0.pdf) <<== PDF BFB-3000 manual link
Operation manual for the BFB-3000... LINK (http://cubify.s3.amazonaws.com/public/bfb/d100253_bfb-3000_operations_manual_v3.4.pdf)

I wonder if we can glean stuff from the Axon BFB generator noted in this manual.
It is obvious 3D Systems remained on a single freight train from day one of their consumer printer market.
It even has some NASA references when you dig into this printer and the code. This means there is public record regarding this printer.
We truly need to better understand the custom Mxxx codes used in the .cube() files.
I have a feeling these routines and assigned codes spawned from the Axon app and were never fully adopted by the community at large.
Yet, 3D Systems chose to maintain their legacy interpretations and continue building on them. That decision can really mess with conversion apps.
The command set is so small that the required detailed information could be covered in a few pages.

No matter what, today was a good day. Got rid of my woes with ABS on the Cube3! Resolved a nagging itch about the stiffer bowden tube on the Cube3.
In all, I owe you, John Tee! A few simple words cleared the skies. Conversion is working perfectly. Shame to loose WiFi though.

- - - - - - - - - -

Here is some nostalgia...


Anyone know the backstory between BFB and 3DS?

- - - - - - - - - -

When it rains it pours... and not just salt!

I took a chance on the re-listing of the two red PLA cube3 carts on ebay by making an offer.
Looks like I have 3 new cube3 carts coming my way.

I may have to do a B2B upgrade offer on one or two of these.

- - - - - - - - - -

PETG IS UP AND RUNNING ON THE LITTLE WHITE CUBE3! Okay, color me intrigued. Sticks well to LokBuild, PETG has a nice thermal profile, and the EkoCycle slicer is gentler on the mechanics. Price to pay is a quick edit. Ouch! And I'm also going to suggest that this profile may work well with 3rd party ABS as well!

- - - - - - - - - -

One vote for PETG being wearable...


I got to hold it for about 5 seconds before it was no longer mine :eek:

- - - - - - - - - -

Finally designed an 18650 Li-Ion battery holder that I like.


Also works well as a 18650 cell protector.

- - - - - - - - - -

I was doing some more work on the wiper in the Cube. Leather works but requires maintenance after the wipe. Not good for multi-color prints.
Then I was using a jar opening pad... silicon... and it too worked well. The tip would melt the silicon but the filament was cool enough to not make a deeper groove.

But it does have a small clearance under the tip that still drags filament onto the build plate all too often. Yesterday I had yet another bright idea...

You know that 4mm Teflon tubing you have laying around... a small say 7mm piece? Slice it lengthwise with a good knife to allow flattening of the tube.
Now stuff it in the little white waste bin clip. It should fit wall to wall where the normal wiper would sit. I faced the -arc- to the outside of the printer.
I also made sure that the top edge of the Teflon is perfectly aligned with the bottom of the extruder tip. It has no way to not wipe perfectly flush with the tip!

...and then I run it a few times... making notes along the way. Sure enough, the wipe is perfect! However, I learned that the Cube 3 drools after wiping.
The wiper appears to be functioning perfectly but the code is starting to extruder before it ever gets to the build plate. A 3mm turd was hanging off the extruder tip before it ever hit the build plate.

I need to see if this is in the slicer. Certainly a routine I've been eyeing on changing for a more reliable initial trace being stuck to the build plate.

12-13-2018, 03:51 AM
When the printhead is heating up over the waste bin at the beginning of a print, the material begins oozing out quite a bit BEFORE the purge step.

In the bfb code, the first 'start extruder' (M101) doesn't occur until the head is in position over the first perimeter.

I wonder if the blob is just a result of oozing after the purge (M551), rather than extrusion starting too soon? Although, there's a really short time for that to occur, between the wipe and finishing the move to the starting point.

How about adding a short strip off to the side just before starting to print?

#Vector T22
M228 P0 S450
M227 P450 S450 G600 F800
# add a small purge strip here
G1 X-70.000 Y0.000 Z0.2200 F8000.0
M108 S40.0
G1 X-70.000 Y-25.000 Z0.2200 F1302.0
# end of purge strip - back to our normal program
G1 X-16.369 Y-19.283 Z0.2200 F8000.0
M108 S40.0
G1 X-16.853 Y-19.421 Z0.2200 F1302.0
G1 X-16.853 Y15.931 Z0.2200 F1302.0
G1 X-14.903 Y18.091 Z0.2200 F1302.0


12-13-2018, 05:24 PM
Ooze I can see but it does have to do with the "blob" problem. It is all managed in the M227 and M228 calls.

There is a G1 in the initialization that really doesn't need to be there. It is the one right after the purge.

I plan to play around with the start routine to see if we can get a more reliable first touch.

One thing I cannot seem to do with notepad.exe; how do you remove lines with a "replace all"?

- - - - - - - - - -

...and I see something interesting that may just support my position on the extra G1:

M104 S210 P1
G1 X-100.500 Y0.000 Z5.0275 F7000.0
M104 S235
G4 P15
M551 P600 S50
G1 X-95.500 Y0.000 Z5.0275 F7000.0
M104 S235 P1
M601 P2 S60 F5
M240 X400
M240 Y450

Cube3 test print:
M104 S173 P1
G1 X-103.500 Y0.000 Z5.3800 F750.0
M104 S215
G4 P15
M551 P850 S50
G1 X-88.500 Y0.000 Z5.3800 F7000.0
G1 X-103.500 Y0.000 Z5.3800 F7000.0
M104 S215 P1
M601 P2 S60 F5
G92 X0 Y0 Z-0.080

That means that at one time they actually went back over the wiper at initiation. They should have removed both lines so the housekeeping happened over the waste bin, not outside. This should be an easy fix. Replace the G1 X-95.500 Y0.000 Z5.0275 F7000.0 with G1 X-100.000 Y0.000 Z5.0275 F7000.0

12-15-2018, 05:55 AM
"One thing I cannot seem to do with notepad.exe; how do you remove lines with a "replace all"?"

I use Notepad++ for almost all editing. The Regex option in Find/Replace is powerful.

To delete all M104 lines (probably not a good idea!):
FIND = ^m104.*$ REPLACE=(null)
This will replace each M104 line with a blank line. (I'm not good enough at Regex to know how to delete the line altogether...)

12-15-2018, 07:55 AM
Yea, I've been beating up Notepad++. Can't get it to function with the hex editor for the life of me. I'll see about Regex, thanks.
We can always make nonsense lines. I'm thinking all M404 calls for chamber temp :)
I can see a use for the scripting capabilities. My edits are tediously repetitious. Need to find a way to trick it into looking like an input field for varying retracts... manual change pause with a resulting replication for certain commands.

12-16-2018, 04:15 AM
"...find a way to trick it into looking like an input field for varying retracts... manual change pause with a resulting replication for certain commands."


I'll bet Notepad++ can do it -- but you are already two levels above my job grade!!

12-21-2018, 01:09 AM
Nothing like a little work to feed the family but funny enough... I'd rather be messing with bringing out the most from our little printers.

Happy Holidays and may Santa bring you all the filament and upgrades you've been wishing for.

12-23-2018, 05:17 AM
Hey Tom,

After Christmas, when you have time, could you post an .stl for this:





Oh, yeah... and:

Somewhere I saw your link to your favorite ebay PTFE tube provider. But, being lazy, instead of searching it out I wonder if you would mind posting it again, if you still recommend him.

Thanks again!

12-23-2018, 06:13 AM
Wow, I didn't realize I didn't post that up. You already got all the other high level training from the PC4-M5 salvage thread. I'm having trouble consolidating all this only in the fact that this groove thing appears to be an enigma. Either that or bicycle spokes are going by the way of the dinasour :p

Do grind a flat on that spoke for the screw. I still have trouble with these things sliding out of where I want them set. The previous version works pretty good considering it is more rigid. Bottom line is, can you make an effective cutting edge with a nice 2mm wide sharp edge(?) And a lot of people will say ... "I dono" and leave it at that. When, as designer I know that wrangling PTFE in a new and unique way is FREAKIN' HUGE! This takes the wear out COMPLETELY! And no more broken fittings!... yet I digress ;|

Here's the link... Yes, no reason not to trust that it is the same stock. Check what you get but I don't have any that doesn't pass. Getting it to relax is the biggest chore.

I'll get back on the grooving tool. How are you groovin' now?

- - - - - - - - - -

...and the prototype set for the groover in STL and cube3.


12-23-2018, 09:34 PM
Thank You!

You are the Everready Bunnie of 3D Printing Information...!

PTFE is ordered.

As far as groovin', it goes tolerably well using my IKEA grooving tool:


I recently sharpened and squared up the cutting edge, so it works a little better now.

01-07-2019, 01:13 AM
Way cool. More or less where I started. The cut is fairly forgiving basically because the circlips are captured.

You have to wonder if this readiness thing is a healthy thing or not ;p

Thanks for sharing your grooving tool. I knew Ikea could pull through. I think their entire line is DIY :O

- - - - - - - - - -

Anyone heard of FlashPrint? It comes with the new Voxel by Monoprice. It outputs 2 g-codes... .G and GX. GX has some Kanji in it and the .G is simple ascii text, but they run a -very- basic script. There are no retracts on the print file! This may make a good fallback as the software does have an advanced mode. This gives you access to the various slicing parameters. See if this does anything for you...

support files lower on the page: https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=107&cp_id=10724&cs_id=1072403&p_id=33820&seq=1&format=2

- - - - - - - - - -

...and who was nice enough to receive a new printer for xmas?
New filaments abound?
A lump of coal in their hot-end?
All of the above?

:) Happy Holidays!

- - - - - - - - - -

Oh, and it gets better ... Oh, yea, they killed Cubify :(

Re-purposed CubePro


I can see doing a DIY cintering mod to this one...


01-07-2019, 10:44 PM
For a moment I thought the CocoJet was an April's fool lol

But not... https://www.slideshare.net/fernandosaenzmarrero/cocojet

01-07-2019, 11:20 PM
I want coco filament!

01-08-2019, 07:30 AM

What a steal of a machine! LOL


01-08-2019, 05:25 PM
(never mind on the Coco puffs)

01-13-2019, 02:07 AM

Here's the code for an example Notepad++ macro which I use to modify a Cube Print-generated PLA .bfb file for a different PLA material. It:
- changes the first layer temperature from 235 to 220
- changes the retract lengths (M227 and M228) from 450 to 400 (I'm using the B2B bowden setup.)

This code is found at C:\Users\username\AppData\Roaming\Notepad++\shortc uts.xml in the <Macros> section.

<Macro name="Cube PLA to MH PLA" Ctrl="no" Alt="no" Shift="no" Key="0">
<Action type="3" message="1700" wParam="0" lParam="0" sParam="" />
<Action type="3" message="1601" wParam="0" lParam="0" sParam="M104 S235 P1" />
<Action type="3" message="1625" wParam="0" lParam="0" sParam="" />
<Action type="3" message="1602" wParam="0" lParam="0" sParam="M104 S220 P1" />
<Action type="3" message="1702" wParam="0" lParam="0" sParam="" />
<Action type="3" message="1701" wParam="0" lParam="1635" sParam="" />
<Action type="3" message="1700" wParam="0" lParam="0" sParam="" />
<Action type="3" message="1601" wParam="0" lParam="0" sParam="M227 P450 S450 G450 F600" />
<Action type="3" message="1625" wParam="0" lParam="0" sParam="" />
<Action type="3" message="1602" wParam="0" lParam="0" sParam="M227 P400 S400 G450 F600" />
<Action type="3" message="1702" wParam="0" lParam="0" sParam="" />
<Action type="3" message="1701" wParam="0" lParam="1635" sParam="" />
<Action type="3" message="1700" wParam="0" lParam="0" sParam="" />
<Action type="3" message="1601" wParam="0" lParam="0" sParam="M228 P0 S450" />
<Action type="3" message="1625" wParam="0" lParam="0" sParam="" />
<Action type="3" message="1602" wParam="0" lParam="0" sParam="M228 P0 S400" />
<Action type="3" message="1702" wParam="0" lParam="0" sParam="" />
<Action type="3" message="1701" wParam="0" lParam="1635" sParam="" />

Thought it would be interesting to know how NP++ stores its macros. It's 'modifiable', but not 'programmable' since they use numeric codes to specify actions. This is probably useful information only in a case where you had entered a macro with lots of steps and then realized you put a wrong value in somewhere. You could modify that value in the .xml file rather than having to re-enter the whole macro.

It's also a way to share macros.

01-13-2019, 02:17 AM
That is way cool! I suppose there is a guide somewhere with all the codes.
But the actions are cyclical for every replace so you should be able to simply add other calls in a simple editor.
And knowing this I know I need to change "400" calls to "350" before I make the "450" call to "400".

This is exactly what I go through manually in Notepad.

Any way to start a selection with a shortcut keystroke to select from the cursor to end-of-file? Obviously thinking of removing the image at the end of the file. That way I can preview the Cube3 file with CubePro.

01-13-2019, 03:51 AM
Try this:

<Macro name="Remove End Gibberish" Ctrl="no" Alt="no" Shift="no" Key="0">
<Action type="3" message="1700" wParam="0" lParam="0" sParam="" />
<Action type="3" message="1601" wParam="0" lParam="0" sParam="\0\0\0\0" />
<Action type="3" message="1625" wParam="0" lParam="2" sParam="" />
<Action type="3" message="1702" wParam="0" lParam="1792" sParam="" />
<Action type="3" message="1701" wParam="0" lParam="1723" sParam="" />
<Action type="0" message="2319" wParam="0" lParam="0" sParam="" />
<Action type="0" message="2180" wParam="0" lParam="0" sParam="" />

That translates to:
- Open Replace dialog (menu Search > Replace... )
- Select Regular Expression (radio button in Search Mode box at the bottom left)
- Put \0\0\0\0 in the Find box (four null characters)
- Click the >> button (find next)
- Close the Replace dialog
- Press Ctrl+Shift+End (the End key is usually near Home, Page Up, Page Down) - ** this selects from cursor to EOF. **
- Press Delete

It leaves one blank line at the bottom, but that won't hurt anything.

Based on a quick check of some files, I believe the Gibberish Block always begins with 4 nulls. It that isn't true, it may be sufficient to find just the first null.

01-13-2019, 04:02 AM
Sweet! Can't wait to try it. So this routine is somehow recursive or a single replace all?

01-13-2019, 04:29 AM
No, just a select-and-delete using Regex.

Most of the steps are just to find the start of the binary blob . The Ctrl-Shift-End is the trick to select from there to end of file.

You can do it manually: just scroll down to the last command text line, place the cursor in front of the binary stuff, hit Ctrl-Shift-End and then Delete.

01-17-2019, 09:59 AM
Cool. Yea, that will save me a lot of manual scrolling.

Okay, easy way to find the end of the g-code is:
CTRL-ALT-I Incremental Search... enter M107 and hit back arrow.

not sure how you'd code it but you get to the end of the M107, do your trick CTRL-Shift-End and "delete".

I see now that replace all is an option. Not much documentation on Notepad++ is there!

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Today was pure printing ZEN!

Touched up the B2B models for more reliable ABS prints.
Printed them all using the Ekocycle profile and printing 3DS ABS.
All I can say is "What Blobs!"... and not a cooling tower in sight!
...on tape, whetted with a touch of diluted cube glue.

The notable difference in the print profiles, RPET v. ABS is that the Ekocycle profile is a lot calmer on the printer, and the print. A lot more patient, and therefore also slower. These small prints have slow layers due to short trace lengths. A 30 minute print takes around 45 minutes. If you see the quality of the lay of each layer, you'd understand the opening of this post. Specially if you are a Cube3 owner and that is all you own!

Mind you, my ABS profile works perfectly nicely with 3DS ABS as long as it is under 5 years old. The older stuff needs a different profile and Ekocycle RPET (PETG) does the trick. The ABS profiles tend to suffer heat-creep in the part causing snags and curls. Hense all the hurdles to remove the heat at each layer by adding purge towers.

I will add this note: the prints made from this old 3DS filament using the Ekocycle profile are weaker than the fresh ABS printed prints by maybe 15%. But it really handles overhangs and detailed shapes beautifully! Definitely a worthwhile trade-off. And new option!

01-17-2019, 04:12 PM
I think my two Cube 3's are possessed!

Up to last week, the decoration lights stayed on the whole time they were printing or purging or whatever.

Last weekend, while changing my LAN around, I accidentally allowed the router I use for my printers to connect to the Internet for a while. Normally, I keep them air-gapped.

Now, the lights stay off all the time, except briefly at the conclusion of a print job, they turn on for a few seconds, then fade off.

Question: Do these printers autonomously fetch some kind of updates whenever connected to the Internet??

01-17-2019, 04:53 PM
No, but this is not unusual. Both of my daily printers do this at some point. I go in an manually turn the lights back on in setup.
It's the same as the pair of sequential M107's in the print files; because "they've seen odd behavior".

01-18-2019, 05:10 AM
Ooohhhh - never noticed that little light bulb icon
Thanks - now I can see what's printing!!

02-17-2019, 09:58 PM

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Nice! Just found out you can run multiple versions of CubePro on the same machine at the same time!

The file structure for the Cubify apps are nicely self contained.
Just append the version to the \programs(x86) folder name, say CubePro1.87, and update the shortcut.

Now I've got even better access to both versions and their config files.
Found a trove of Cube3 material profiles for the CubePro app in V2.02.

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Okay guys... That little ReCube project (http://www.print3dforum.com/showthread.php/1712-Building-Tomuro-s-Circuit?p=45524&viewfull=1#post45524) was a bit of work. I hope you enjoy it. I think it came out nice. Now to load the pro version. Thanks Tomuro!

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Time for a new lounge entry:

After scolding Alex on his cleaning out a dream-sale on new CubePro Duo's on eBay, the seller was kind enough to offer up 10 more at the same price.
Alex's quick fingers prompted me to have a serious battle with my finances. When the second offering showed up a day later, I was ready to pounce on one unit with confidence. Having enough experience with Cubify to date, I see no downside to this acquisition other than the space required to deploy it.

Is the market about the be flooded with CubePro's as Cubify continues to liquidate? If you've had your eyes on one, start preparing :o

So Alex... what are you going to do with three CubePro's? Deploy, resale, or spare parts donor when needed?

02-17-2019, 10:08 PM
Feeding my farm! lol

02-17-2019, 10:26 PM
Good to hear... going for a 4th and 5th yet? There's still 7 left!

02-18-2019, 10:47 AM
If only these could be Marlinized easily...

02-18-2019, 11:13 AM
Stay tuned. Looks like Ryan wants to get there too.

Is Marlin F/W open source where custom development is fairly straight forward?

There is no reason the OpenBuilds Cube3 conversion cannot be applied to the Pro Duo.
What F/W core was that based on?

02-18-2019, 11:44 AM
Of course Marlin FW is open source and many "forks" work for different hardware AS LONG as you know how to operate each hardware I/O.... I fear we wouldnt have much documentation of every I/O for the hw tho...

04-26-2019, 04:37 PM
Oh, that. Not an issue. 3DS seems to like very cheap common stuff. Thermisters may require different calibration... we learned that on Cube3; motors should have current limits activated if you continue to find end-stops to calibrate the motion on startup. And motors have to be calibrated for travel per rotation... and filament feed per rotation. Heated beds can double for chamber temp, again, calibrate. What else is there? I don't know what's available for tweaking the Marlin F/W or even how it is done. But the overall connections is quite limited. The other advantage to CubePro is the lack of a shared nozzle heater block. That makes things a lot simpler. Looks like turning on both heaters was an add-on over time on the Cube3. All that's left is deciding if you want to develop housekeeping F/W for maintenance or write routines in gcode to aid setup operations. I suspect there are many useful libraries for Marlin already available that will integrate some common and useful routines. I just don't follow any of that because I don't mess with code in general. I know enough to be dangerous... but I need a reason to go into the deep dive. You already know I am a fast learner in these matters so never say never. But Cube3 has been more than a handful. I don't regret a minute of its continued development. I still think we can go much further with it. I want to see what Pro can do. so I have a higher level reference to compare to.

It is good that I've been collecting all that salvage ABS. I got more that enough to hit the ground running with the new Pro. Now to find some decent Nylon.

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Be sure to check out the new very boring Cube3 glue video on YouTube (http://www.print3dforum.com/showthread.php/1703-Cube-Glue?p=45487&viewfull=1#post45487).
Hope you glean some good information from the dialog and the comments.

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I just realized something... looking up thermal allowances for SMT components... Solder melts well before it reaches 260*C! Solder is still available without flux IIRC. That means we should be able to print with several varieties of metal alloy "filament". Has this idea ever come up in good company?

Lead free and is perfectly compatible with ABS settings (500F is 260C). Anyone know how to make filament out of an ingot?

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I must add to my appreciation for Cube3...
Looking over the CubePro's fit and finish, from a perspective of software, firmware, and hardware...
Cube3 is yet again a next level of integration.

There is a lot to appreciate about the Cube3 development.
To bad these improvements hadn't made it to the CubePro.

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After a few weeks of playing with CubePro, I must say how much more appreciation I have for the Cube3.

I suspect that CubePro was ready for a major update to bring in those lessons learned on the Cube3... or more likely, Ekocycle development.

It is becoming quite clear that intervention by Coca-Cola and Microsoft changed a lot of 3D Systems' way of thinking about consumer level printers.
There are things in CubePrint 4.03 that are simply not found anywhere in the CubePro offerings. From design implementation to user experience, these two systems are still worlds apart. It is easy to tell that CubePro simply does printing at a level not even this printer can truly achieve. Add to this the constant references to Cube3 in the code and support files, and you can see how there was an obsession with that which became Cube3, or third generation. This really is telling that CubePro was ready to make this leap as well.

Now that I've become familiar with the CubePro s/w and h/w, the Cube3 still stands far above CubePro. Not so much in the technical detail of the print itself, but the merging of super sophisticated near-quantum placement of plastic to the more generalized approximation based on extruder size and adherence to shape that most of the other slicers exhibit. Basically, the dumbed-down version of CubePrint is more in line with Cura and Simplify3D.

Even the hardware level quality in the Cube3 is phenomenal compared to CubePro. Designing to the Cube3 slicer has been a real learning experience. None of which transfers to the CubePro. The Cube3 is simply more stable for many reasons.

Even if you use CubePro for professional level solid prints or the exotic materials, don't overlook putting a Cube3 into service for those lesser requirements. With the number of upgrades available now for the Cube3, this is a highly reliable printer with a slicer that is still a cut above the rest. A few print-file mod's, and you have a real winner.

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I know I haven't contributed much in this part of the forum lately but I've been kinda busy launching the ReCube Wand.
However, you might like to hear that the original Cube3 printer, which is replacement #2 from probably 1-1/2 years ago, is pumping out ReCube Wand housings.
This printer's maintenance history is pretty straight forward as any machinist would want to hear. I've replaced a filament motor cooling fan very early due to excessive noise rather than all out failure... and I've replaced a couple of the belt bearings on the X-motion axis. As to upgrades; The Universal Hub upgrade and LokBuild is about it.

I am printing all the ReCube Wand housing parts with 3D Solutech Real White that was given to me by 3D Solutech. Running a bit low now so I have a new spool on order. Really like this stuff. I'm running it on a CubeGlue slurried LokBuild surface. A little moisture... a finger wipe... and ready for the next print after it dries with a little help of an electric stove burner (remember, to take the chill off the plate). I am also running these prints from a USB drive because I did modify the retraction parameters to minimize the blobs (PLA - M227/M228 [325/375]). This leaves some stringing that is much easier to deal with than blobs. I have a small flameless torch that wipes out strings in moments.

Bottom line; there isn't much left for me to do with the physical Cube3... they just print now. Still have a dedicated PLA machine and a separate ABS/PETG machine. That helps keep nozzles from contaminating. The last contamination I dealt with was the metallic silver ABS from 3DS. This stuff is old enough that the skin of the filament is a contaminant in its own right. I won't put this stuff through the CubePro because I really don't want to have to maintain those nozzles. I can run the metallic silver in the Cube3, but not for extended periods of time. It has to purge from time to time.

What is left on the Cube3 side of development is the software. As I've put out there several times, and with the help of "Bob" (where are you Bob?), we learned that the config files decode with the decoder. This is big, because Bob also got the configs to recompile. And recently I learned that the CubePro and the Cube3 files are almost compatible! That is where my efforts will go next. I think I know how to make the appropriate changes to the config files to have them recompile correctly. I've also found some bugs in some of the config files. Therefore I hope to have some new options with regard to config settings for not only sharing with CubePro, but also optimizing the Cube3 to update the retraction settings more in line with the new bowden solution that Cube3 is enjoying. Config changes can also deal with 3rd party ABS issues by reducing the temperature within the config files, or even better, let it run an Ekocycle profile and having the software think it is ABS.

What is telling about all this is that we are locked into the applications as-is; CubePrint 4.03 and CubePro 2.02. What is obvious is that the system doesn't really know what you give it for config files. Therefore, a proper schema for managing config files for variations is going to be a challenge because the name cannot change to protect the innocent. This will require some kind of batch processing and a menu to keep things on track... so you know what profile is currently active.

I am here to say that this is doable. This is not just mere fancy. I understand the limitations put before me/us, and I see all the tools we need to make this happen as should be evident from the comments above. I even have known profiles in the existing files that can be queried. After seeing what CubePro does with a Cube3 file, I am even more encouraged that any effort in this direction will merge the capabilities of these 2 machines. What I'd really like to achieve is to make a print generated on Cube3 to look identical when printed in CubePro. This does nothing to take advantage of the CubePro options, but it does migrate the Cube3 platform to another platform.

As to CubePro slicing, well, that is a mixed bag of nuts and is getting some good coverage in the CubePro section of the forum. I will leave it to say that CubePro is a technical printer and most people don't need or want that. They want the fluffy stuff Simplify3D and Cura spits out... and Cube3, of course. The slicer approach in the CubePro is a whole different level of integration. You may see why I am marrying these two diverse technologies to be common in hardware. Until we have a reliable decoder for the latest CubePro 2.02 software configs, the hope of putting CubePro's technical slicer to the more stable platform of the Cube3 is currently beyond the scope. it may be worth doing with CubePro 1.87, but as Alex has pointed out to me, it is several releases back where I thought it may only be 1. Indeed, CubePro went up to v1.11 meaning 1.87... 1.9x 1.10 and then finally 1.11. There is a notable difference between the versions and print results. I haven't worked with it enough to be definitive on exactly how, but the implications are significant enough to know that I might be undoing good works by backtracking to 1.87 for the now. And I have enough to do until then anyway.

There's my update. And for those who still follow these threads, happy printing.

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