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View Full Version : HOW TO Cartridge Replacement Tube - The KISS Method!!



bolsoncerrado
03-02-2017, 12:34 AM
Keep
It
Simple
Stupid!

http://i.imgur.com/8FMozL8.jpg



You just need a quick connector for 1.75mm filament (http://amzn.to/2lAF02v) and some PFTE 2mm ID 4mm OD tubing (http://amzn.to/2mfSOD5) ;)

https://uge-one.com/image/cache/data/0%20UGE%20J-HEAD%20Fitting%20Connector-500x500.jpg

**NOTHING ELSE**!!



1) Just remove the inner tube from the top connector, cut the top connector tube and drill the top part up to half its path

http://i.imgur.com/LCifWbi.jpg



2) Resupply the original tubing on the bottom, SCREW IN the fast connector on top, and YOU'RE DONE!

http://i.imgur.com/EmRpHD9.jpg


3) Feed the ohter side with either a rewinded spoo (http://www.print3dforum.com/showthread.php/924-Cube-3-filament-winder)l or from the outside using any spool holder (http://www.print3dforum.com/showthread.php/925-Spool-Holder-(Low-Friction-Fully-Printable)) and your own filament brand ;)




http://img10.deviantart.net/4e1d/i/2008/361/4/3/wall_e_ta_da_____finished_by_anime_ink.jpg


http://www.mactrast.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/06/3.iCloud-it-just-works.png



https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/c8/43/e8/c843e860b918a09428f81b6fa96cb1e5.gif







LOL

TommyDee
03-02-2017, 12:49 AM
Don't you also need some 4mm tubing :rolleyes:

Wait, what are you doing on the hot end?

Also, the new politically correct deciphering of KISS is "Keep It Stupidly Simple".
But that went out the window with Trump.

bolsoncerrado
03-02-2017, 01:01 AM
That PFTE tube cut was just there for illustration purposes only :) but yeah on the other end you should have the extruder head :)


I'll work on that based on thermo268 instructions ;)

I forgot to mention, thanks to the "windows" on the cartidges you dont even need to respool the filament on the cube3 cart but just feed it inside the cartidge straight from the outside ;)

Did anyone print the "rewinder (http://www.print3dforum.com/showthread.php/924-Cube-3-filament-winder)" yet? :D

TommyDee
03-02-2017, 01:04 AM
I'd like to know if anyone -tested- the rewinder yet :confused:

bolsoncerrado
03-02-2017, 01:06 AM
Agreed!

lol

TommyDee
03-02-2017, 01:34 AM
So what do you call "leaving it the hell alone"

LITHA?

I'm running my Egyptian chess set with a stock setup using the Hatchbox filament.
Prints as good as any other solution except the one that is spliced.

I guess the whole process of rebuilding these cartridges is to fix really crappy setups from 3DS.
But I have yet to find the ultimate solution that minimized pre-loading the filament and also takes up the excess clearance in the tubes.
The vertical entry into the nozzle is a big part of that, but the slop in the rest of the tubing is also problematic.
This is the parameter that effects the pull-back (de-string?) distance.

Mythandar
03-02-2017, 07:32 AM
I like this. The one method I had been considering was http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2060242. It required 2 pushin connectors per cart .. and it's going to cost me 50$ for 10 connectors .. not worth it.

Mythandar
03-02-2017, 07:38 AM
tommy - Anywhere I can go to in portland to checkout fillament?

TommyDee
03-02-2017, 08:59 AM
Not that I've found... and I've looked!
And if we did, it would be twice the going price.

That thingiverse gadget is something that might be dialed for flexible filament.

Programeitor3d
03-02-2017, 09:27 AM
Very good idea, I found this complete kit that I think serves me for this project:
http://www.ebay.es/itm/1M-PTFE-Tube-For-3D-Printers-With-Pneumatic-Fittings-For-1-75mm-Filament-/272550346940?hash=item3f754440bc:g:fA8AAOSwopRYZ~L-

bolsoncerrado
03-02-2017, 09:58 AM
Aqui creo que te sale mas a cuenta: http://amzn.to/2lgdcV1

O si me apuras, este, y tienes un monton mas de cosas "gratis" http://amzn.to/2mO7dTx

bolsoncerrado
03-02-2017, 12:39 PM
OK I now need to test this IN the printer! Looks promising!

http://i.imgur.com/kCWgKif.jpg


Not sure if the metal fit will allow the tube to operate correctly, we'll see!


(PS. Note the black tape is actually not needed, it's just I crack twisted the lower gray portion of the hotend by "accident")

TommyDee
03-02-2017, 11:25 PM
Bo, what size thread do you have on the fitting on the cartridge end?

I'm doing a printed bulkhead model right now.

Mine needs to be 4.2mm to thread the fitting and 4mm for my tube.

I'll make one with a 3mm through hole too.

Exudos194
03-03-2017, 01:58 AM
When you say bulkhead, do you mean you are making the extruder housing?

TommyDee
03-03-2017, 03:30 AM
No, the end that fits in the cartridge.

Cannot handle the heat on the nozzle end.

MegaloDon
03-03-2017, 03:39 AM
OK I now need to test this IN the printer! Looks promising!

http://i.imgur.com/kCWgKif.jpg

It looks like your filament is in an endless loop! :p

Exudos194
03-03-2017, 03:45 AM
Heres my take on replacing the tubing, using the KISS method for the cartridge then drilling a hole into the extruder head slightly large enough to thread a 4mm quik connect.
182618271828

TommyDee
03-03-2017, 03:48 AM
Bold! :)

Mythandar
03-03-2017, 04:22 AM
Bold but I like it. Of course I'm going to wait and see if the stresses involved make it work loose. But I like it.

MegaloDon
03-03-2017, 04:40 AM
Heres my take on replacing the tubing, using the KISS method for the cartridge then drilling a hole into the extruder head slightly large enough to thread a 4mm quik connect.

I would like to see the inside of the extruder casing. How does it connect from the quik connect to the extruder tip?

Exudos194
03-03-2017, 04:49 AM
Just started a 21 hour print, once that's done I'll take it apart and take pictures. But basically I used your 4mm hole template to drill all the way through to the extruder tube. Then I I used progressively larger bits to widen just the outer shell of the housing to slightly smaller than the quick connect. I wrapped the quick connect in Teflon tape and hand threaded it into the housing. I fed a small segment of the original tubing from to the extruder and about half an inch past the outside of the quick connect. I drilled 4mm tube so that stock filament fits inside of it. I pushed the stock tubing inside the 4mm tubing and then pushed that new combined tubing through the quick connect. Also made so that the 4mm tube wraps around the the little bit of extruder that's left past the speed nut.

Honestly though this method was my last chance to fix my previous attempt at retuning lol. I though I could drill slightly smaller than 4mm into the housing then using pressure alone hold the 4mm tubing. I tested a print after doing so and woke up to several coils of filament all over the floor as the printer retraction (I'm assuming) forced the tube out, causing coils of filament to fell all over the floor.

Mythandar
03-03-2017, 04:55 AM
You had me at hello.

TommyDee
03-03-2017, 06:05 AM
For the M5 thread fittings peeps...

That took way to much effort :(

Let me know what you want me to change.

18301831

bolsoncerrado
03-03-2017, 09:22 AM
We can't keep it up! This community is starting to KICK SOME MAJOR ASS!!! :D

Congratz! :D

Exudos194
03-03-2017, 10:50 AM
Went to watch Logan, came back and saw this mess...1838 Well at least the quick connects held, I suspect it's the bed plate wobble, will be printing Don's bed plate ring mod next... Also anyone have enough machining finesse to make more nozzles? Lol

bolsoncerrado
03-03-2017, 12:44 PM
Looks like filament got strangled actually?

bolsoncerrado
03-03-2017, 04:57 PM
OK OK for the hotend part I give up on the back entrance, I shall go top then!

PFTE is too strong for that massive bending inside the machine with the coupler aboard.


Heres my take on replacing the tubing, using the KISS method for the cartridge then drilling a hole into the extruder head slightly large enough to thread a 4mm quik connect.
1828

You may want to try with a 1.75mm quick connect version... Less hole, less stress to the already small hotend casing.



I would like to see the inside of the extruder casing. How does it connect from the quik connect to the extruder tip?

+1!!!!

TommyDee
03-03-2017, 05:08 PM
The best hot end solution I've come up with so far is machining the 4mm tube.

However, yes, an M5 thread into the hot end cap should be possible, but you do need to "trap" a piece of 3mm tubing inside.
The only thing to watch for is "squirming" of the cap on retraction. This could case heating errors.

I'll give this a shot this weekend.

bolsoncerrado
03-03-2017, 05:42 PM
...or you could create an STL of the hotend plastic parts and see if we can fit one of these quick connectors inside, HAH!

TommyDee
03-03-2017, 05:49 PM
Are you daring enough to put an ABS solution that close to the heater?

bolsoncerrado
03-03-2017, 06:00 PM
OK what sorta plastic is being used for the hotend plastic parts? :D

TommyDee
03-03-2017, 07:04 PM
Early units had a rubber coating to keep people from burning themselves.
later, they decided over-mold is expensive so they just made it one part.

It may well be a version of ABS. Additives can make it more heat resistant.

Again, are you willing to test one?

bolsoncerrado
03-03-2017, 07:24 PM
Never printed in ABS, but I guess I can run one for test run, sure, if I notice smells I can simply discard the idea after inspecting it.

After all, I guess those so noisy fans are there for a purpose...

Mythandar
03-03-2017, 07:35 PM
Could work. Try using stock 3dsystem abs, it gets up to 260 to melt. So printing at 220 pla won't get it that high.

TommyDee
03-03-2017, 08:36 PM
The challenge is more about having sufficient density and adhesion to get a good solid print.

I almost want to print this as a slight angle to avoid shear problems.

TommyDee
03-03-2017, 10:10 PM
Received another shipment of PFA Teflon 2mm ID and 3mm OD tubing.
This time the ID is at least 2mm.

The order I received yesterday(?) would not accept a 2mm rod.
Even a piece of filament that went through the driver wouldn't go through... and never mind the M3 round nut.

What a hit-and-miss way to source materials!

So far:
3mm OD from China, claimed to be PTFE (twice) was too soft when heated. It was a semi-transparent whitish tube.
4mm OD, 2mm ID from McMaster-Carr was seriously oversized. Too much clearance for the tractor'd filament.
3mm OD from Fluorostore, much smaller than 2mm ID. Not enough clearance.
Same 3mm OD from Fluorostore, more reasonable 2mm ID. To be tested.

Compared to stock 3DS tubing...
Bluish hue
2.8mm OD typical. Actual ID, ?
Tougher that most
Nylon over-mold has deformed older tubes creating filament resistance. Typically found on the white over-mold heads.
The little guide tube in the cartridge is the virgin version of the longer filament feeder tube. I want meters of this specific material!

Next, I need to try the pure PTFE Teflon tubing -not- from China.
Looks like I need to make a larger order from the Fluorostore (https://www.fluorostore.com/).

When you have a good, unmarred stock filament tube, it modifies well to the vertical entry modification.
Once it is kinked or distorted, it becomes a serious liability.

Now to find a 3mm die. I suspect cutting the threads will be better than just threading the round nut on.

MegaloDon
03-03-2017, 11:52 PM
This is where I got mine. https://www.amazon.com/PTFE-Tubing-2mm-3mm-feet/dp/B00EY2UZ8M/ref=sr_1_115?ie=UTF8&qid=1488581333&sr=8-115&keywords=uncle+chucks+stuff

TommyDee
03-04-2017, 12:46 AM
That's funny, Uncle Chuck's -IS- the Fluorostore!

I've already spent way to much on this stuff.
The 5' length that is the right size should hold me over for a while.
But I do want some more of the 4mm OD stuff if it is the right size.

I have a question into those guys to find out what the bluish tinted stuff really is.

BO - You haven't answered my other question... what size thread is on your fitting that you put in the nylon cartridge bulkhead?
I'm thinking I can actually print the thread.

bolsoncerrado
03-04-2017, 07:07 PM
THe ones for 1.75mm are M5. The ones for 3.00mm that someone used here are M6.

I'd say make one of each :D

TommyDee
03-05-2017, 12:10 AM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ixOMkhIZio

TommyDee
03-05-2017, 12:12 AM
Wait, you want to push 3mm filament through the cube?

Exudos194
03-05-2017, 01:31 AM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ixOMkhIZio

Wow another brave soul took the plunge!

TommyDee
03-05-2017, 01:53 AM
You guys are all on the right track.

I'm just trying to formalize it somewhat.

It is working great! Just having a lot of trouble getting there.

I just modified a rubber-coated extruder cap.
A little rougher on the location this time.
Seems to be quite forgiving.

But this in my toolbox is great!

1852

TommyDee
03-05-2017, 02:01 AM
I recommend using ABS, 200um, almost solid, and cross fill.
I also recommend a purge ring all the way up. This print failed me 3 times until I added the ring.

The attached file is both ABS and PLA. I trust you peeps can play with it if you only want one.

1853

I was able to model the M5 thread. It is very well preserved.
Depending on how clean your print is, it may just screw right in.
The waste at the start/stop should be cleaned out before tightening something in the hole.

And you don't have to use the threads or quick connect.
This also has the original 3mm hole in it for a pass-through 3mm tube.
You might have to drill it out to size. It should even take a 4mm drill if you print it almost solid.

1854

Now to finish the cartridge mod with full credit going to Bo, who refuses to give up his real nic :)

First of all, there are no case modes required. All the flavors of case we've discussed in the past will work.
Second of all, this mod only requires a reasonably common fitting and tubing.
The fitting is a 4mm OD tube fitting with an M5 thread.
I buy mine from industrial supply places so they don't come 10 for dime. Fortunately, this one is easy enough.

If you want you can search it. I found it on Amazon too.
I did confirm that a lot of datasheets are not clear as to the body of this part.
I did confirm he CAD model was identical.
OEM: Legris 3101 04 19 http://datasheet.octopart.com/3101-04-19-Legris-datasheet-10543054.pdf


Let's talk about the driver and the tubing.
The stock tubing is 2.8mm, not 3.
The filament driver has holes for 2.8mm tubing.

That's great for those of us who purchased 3mm tubing. Stay with me.

Cut a piece of your favorite 3mm OD tubing 94mm long.

1874

(you've already printed the bulkhead and fitted it with the quick connect.)

Open the filament driver and place your tube near the bearing.
It is worth assembling the unit with two screws at the tube just to make sure the filament goes through unimpeded.
Obviously, do this without the tractor wheels in place.
The reason I like the tube near the drivers is that I have had luck doing a hot-feed.
It has less chance to veer away as the crunched filament curls.

1875

Now install the tractor gear and place the screws where they belong.
You can make sure the tube remains from looking in the side of the unit.
Give the tube a good tug. It should be captured.

If you don't have this, the stock tube with the nut will work. You need something to keep it form sliding around.
The nut, if maintained on an original length of tube is perfectly good for this mod.

Maintain the original larger tube. This is actually a guide.
Think about it, you are pushing a rope now unconstrained in the case...

1876

This is what it should look like before installing it in the case.

1877

Turn the material label to the outside of the case and assemble however you like.

1878

Connect this mod with the hot-end mod below with a 4mm tube and print away.

1879

Exudos194
03-05-2017, 02:04 AM
Where did you source the push fitting? Mine has about a 9mm thread on it whereas yours seems about 4mm...

EDIT: Figured it out... A quick Google search brought up the right fitting... http://m.ebay.com/itm/222238811441?_trksid=p2385738.m2548.l4275&_mwBanner=1

TommyDee
03-05-2017, 02:13 AM
McMaster-Carr. This is the same one: https://www.amazon.com/Legris-3101-04-Nickel-Plated-Connector/dp/B009PT3GMQ/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1488676301&sr=8-9&keywords=Legris%2Bpush%2Bto%2Bconnect%2B4MM%2Btube %2BM5&th=1

There is plenty of depth available. 4mm long is not a problem. The problem is overall body size on the hot-end. It can interfere with the neighboring head on install.

edit: That is an M10 thread. Kind'a Huge! Nothing warrants that much thread.

The one I have measures 9mm across the flats and the body will drop through a 10mm hole.

I can adapt the cartridge bulkhead thing to this, but it will be protruding a ways.


These look promising. They have a shoulder under the hex which is helpful. And they're budget parts.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/4mm-Push-in-Pneumatic-Air-Quick-Connect-Tube-Fitting-Coupler-10pcs-/322154936780?hash=item4b01ee39cc:g:tiAAAOSwdGFYt-Tr

Exudos194
03-05-2017, 07:01 AM
Took a bit longer than expected, but here are the pics...
1858

1859

1860

If you drill the holes just right, you keep all the tabs in the head in tact and require no additional tape or adhesive to close back up. As opposed to TommyDee I use m9 fitting that allows the full 4mm Teflon tube all the way to the head. Now onto the next project!!

1861

TommyDee
03-05-2017, 07:14 AM
Aha! :) That's what I was thinking you did... that is from earlier.

Solved that, however. Ask yourself, if the fitting is in place and solid, where is a 45mm length of 3mm Teflon going to go?

1862

Sorry, I have a ton of photos and I have to upload them one by one :(

Exudos194
03-05-2017, 07:24 AM
The 3mm Teflon goes inside the drilled out 4mm Teflon, the goes through the fitting.

TommyDee
03-05-2017, 07:37 AM
Where to drill... 30 degrees looked good for a while just to remain somewhat perpendicular.

1863

Then I went and looked in the printer.
I backed of to 15 degrees from the tip.
I was aiming for splitting the bar of the triangle.
Edit: The 9mm flat area can be ground/sanded, or cut, rather than a counterbore as shown.

1864


This is where is came out.
You want to round out the two shoulders the tube will be crossing with a sharp blade.
One would also consider a 2.8mm thru-drill if they use the stock tubing.

1865

Drill a 4.2mm hole about 3.5mm deep. Tap the hole to M5.
Counterbore an areas about 9mm round so the fitting has something to sit on.
edit: A Dremel cutoff wheels will make short order of this process.
Even a 118 degree drill bit will help.
The fitting should have no qualms about being tightened.
It should feel solid and secure.

1866


This setup will trap the 45mm length of tubing. No round-nut required.

1867

The tube will stop because the fitting has a 2.5mm hex on the bottom.
When the tip is installed, the tube will be in the bottom of the tip.
This is why a small chunk of the stock tubing in this function is perfect.
45mm is not much to salvage from an otherwise destroyed tube.
The tube in the photos is the PFA... it shrunk! replaced with stock stuff and it worked great!

1868
1885

Then the easy way to re-assemble....

1870

And you end up with this...

1871

And if all went well, you can also still do this...

1872

And this is where it will be when sliding down the printer's tracks.
Kind of an important detail also :rolleyes:

1873

Because as the effort began I said 30 degrees was a bit much.
I measured twice and found my calculations lacking when I considered the printer too.
But I will admit, even 15 degrees and the chosen offset from center was a shot in the dark.

Hopefully you will have enough detail to get close to these results and you should have a most wonderful replaceable head inspired by many and in particular Exudos194! This solved my one remaining pain in the .@#$. ...the nozzle temps.

TommyDee
03-05-2017, 07:39 AM
I did away with that. I can now pull the 4mm tube, clip the filament and the head can have the filament pulled with a lighter. The tube inside remains in place.

While the posts are still fresh, I will make a few comments.

First of all, realize that you now can go on your merry way with a few tools and maybe some compromise and rebuild these half reliable cartridges from 3D Systems. I make it a habit to salvage as much as possible and destroy as little as possible.

I have several prototypes of all the discussions laying around, and the discarded remnants of tools and materials.
But it was these two perfect ideas coming together that made it likely.

Bo, Exudos... if I knew how to put recognition notifications in, I would. So "Thanks again!" will have to do.

Many of the problems I've come across are alleviated here. Considerations like PTFE tubing is not made for quick fittings.
Before I would have to treat special every hot-end tube nut. Tube sizes are all over the map, as are types! Frustrating.
Now we can use FEP Teflon! It is made for quick connect fittings! It still deals with heat well, just not 500*F.

And again, as reserve, if you have 2mm ID/3mm OD tubing laying around, use that as the pre-feeder to the spool.
That little stock piece of tubing will serve 4 or more of these mods! Use it on the hot end.

What is wrong with stock cartridges? That is a loaded question. That too has been part of the exploration.
Suffice it to say there is not enough room on this forum to complete the discussion. :p
But I will add in my most recent discoveries that the manufacturing process of over-molding the nylon caterpillar was often overdone in early releases. I have quite a few of those somehow. Hence my need to understand my options. The problem is all these restrictions in the tube and a distorted filament. The clearance in the tube is minimal and therefore excellent. But the distortions along the route makes it a miracle the filament makes it to the other end. A nut, over-crimped tube management, another nut threaded on an inch, and hot-end friction/stiction/and trapping. It was a very bold design decision. It took them generations to iron out.

Enjoy!

bolsoncerrado
03-05-2017, 12:27 PM
I just realized the big threaded quick connectors were indeed M9ish. The small ones with white cap were M6.

So im awaiting a full load of M6 now.

Do you gut to STLize the print head plastic parts then? :D


I'll print a bunch of ABS/PLA identifiers in the meantime hehe.


Btw i also noticed if you work outwards from the nozzle towards the plastic, putting the spring back in doesnt even require pliers. But yeah whatever technique rocks :)

TommyDee
03-05-2017, 07:07 PM
You should be able to thread the M6 in there. I'll model one with the threads to see.

Definitely do -NOT- gut the nozzle cap. It still guides the 45mm length of tubing.
As a matter of fact, preserving that stiffening rail inside is part of what makes this work so well.
If you're talking about a replacement, yes, it would be something of a subassembly that takes everything into account.

The whole idea is this:
"Stiffness without restriction"

That means the filament doesn't have a whole lot of clearance like my 4mm tubing does. This needs to be replaced on mine.
Nothing pinches the tube... caveat, the pinching of the driver tube is reasonably controlled and preferred to the nut.
But the stock units rarely failed at the beginning of the chain. That is why I approve re-using if needed.
Remember that there are two driver housings. I tested the machined version. I haven't confirmed it remains tight in the cast version.
The reason this is important is that you don't want the tube to drive into the works on a retract.

Putting the cover on the other side is much easier with the pliers.
One day I will find the nozzle I shot across the house.

TommyDee
03-05-2017, 07:48 PM
Bo, attached are the M6 threaded bulkhead pieces.

Untested... so let us know how they work!

1882

TommyDee
03-05-2017, 08:31 PM
BTW: an easy way to make a thread chaser is to use a Dremel with a cutoff wheel.
Just try to slice across the threads creating a sharp edge on the leading edge of the thread.
This will shear out the excess plastic. it may require a few steps by cleaning the waste out of the cut groove.

I cut one groove on each side to help keep it straight when chasing.
3 might be even smoother to operate.

1883

This should also help tap the plastics.

The cutting disk is oriented parallel to the above image.

This is the M6 bulkhead pieces.

This makes quick work of creating a perfect thread.

1884

TommyDee
03-05-2017, 09:19 PM
Interesting, the M6 threads appear to have a 4mm through hole.
The M5 threads appear to have a 2-2.5mm hole.

This tells me I want to stick with the M5 for the hot-end.
The M6 appears to be fit nicely on the cartridge side.

I need to order some of the Chinese versions to see how well they work.

Also found some cheaper and more elegant fitting at McMaster-Carr for under $2/each.
And order some of the M6 ones from China. They should work very well on the cartridge end.

Anyone seen this offer?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-5-Feet-3D-Printer-PTFE-Tube-W-2-PC4-M6-Pneumatic-Connectors-For-3D-printer/222169893835?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D2%2 6asc%3D41402%26meid%3D7408d9963e7a4c64b6964077c110 784e%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D3224 40281857

MegaloDon
03-06-2017, 12:39 AM
Next project...

1886

Or this if the other one fails... :D

1887

TommyDee
03-06-2017, 01:04 AM
Ah, man, that looks like my first prototype months ago :(


Another self fab tip...
Don't have a 3mm drill bit?
Drill close to size and thread an M3 screw into the plastic.
Now strip the thread with a little more force.

TommyDee
03-06-2017, 01:58 AM
Let's see if this makes sense now:

* We can switch to FEP tubing. Cheaper and rated for push-to-connect fittings. Still slick and pretty decent high temperature rating for heated bed options. We could even consider ultra-cheap tubing meant for push-to-connect fittings.

* We can retrofit every cartridge using stock components, printed components, and a universal quick connect fitting. This removes the ever so delicate pigtail on the stock setup. Cost ~USD$0.50. If you happened to have some 3mm OD, 2mm ID tubing, almost any flavor, that's a plus. Also check out making your own thread-chasing tap.

* We can consolidate the nozzles. With 4 nozzles, you have everything you need to print whatever, whenever. I say 4 just to keep from mixing ABS and PLA. This should increase the spares part assortment a great deal.

* We can repair stripped or broken filament on the fly. No more cartridge disassembly, nozzle cracking, or all the associated mess. Just pull the 4mm tube from the print head; most likely the filament will come with it if it's still warm. Remove the cartridge from the printer and pull or push some filament out. This moves the stripped section at the filament driver. Now replace the 4mm tube and drive the filament back into the head; then purge the system. I hadn't even removed the head from the printer!

* We can use the "change cartridge" routine to warm the tip to remove the current filament and replace it with a new color. Same as above, let the tip warm and follow the prompts, but before removing the cartridge, pull the tube at the print head. The filament should come right out since there is no nut in the way to cause trouble with a swollen bulb at the end. Re-assemble as above. Again, don't mix PLA and ABS!

*Storing cartridges will be much easier. Even the fitting can be easily removed. Printing new bulkhead pieces is easy enough if the thread ever wears out. This alone is worth the price of admission! And for those using external spool holders, I don't know of an easier way to change filament unless we has access to the drive motors with a jog button.


Okay, I know there are more... what did I miss?

Should we have Don volunteer another drill jig at 15 degrees? ;)

TommyDee
03-06-2017, 07:31 AM
15 degrees! ...and a cheap counterbore bit.



1889

bolsoncerrado
03-06-2017, 09:31 AM
Thanks for the threaded version though I meant threaded NOZZLE HOUSINGS! :D

TommyDee
03-06-2017, 04:56 PM
Still working the housing. But yes, 6mm should fit in the stock one just fine.
Problem is, the hole in the bottom of the fitting won't stop the 2.8mm tubing from getting pulled out.

The idea I have right now is to make a housing that fits into the printer that loads the parts from the top.
Then screw on the cap with whatever fitting your heart desires.

bolsoncerrado
03-06-2017, 08:20 PM
Seems im on a dead end... I completed the nozzle mod with one of these M6 quick fits, everything seems to go smooth. I purge the jet in order to test the setup and the motor starts clicking.... If i manually push the filament aiding the motor, then the extrusion begins but as soon as I relieve the pressure, motor starts to click again :(

I tried "cold" extrusion (without the metal nozzle, of course) and it went fine, now this is weird :( the metal nozzle is OK, its not blocked or I wouldnt be able to extrude manually either.

Any clues?

TommyDee
03-06-2017, 08:36 PM
Yes, purge tend to click on several materials.
Although I get excellent prints from the Hatchbox material, it clicks like crazy when purging.

What does the rest of the setup look like?

I did mention that my PFA material changed shape in the nozzle, right? I
t reduced diameter at the bottom permanently so that the filament got stuck.

Anyway, if there is restriction anywhere, it will likely fail, but don't just use purge as a guide.

MegaloDon
03-07-2017, 01:10 AM
Ok, so I've asked a co-worker (the same guy that designed the print head for my drill guide) to do a couple things for me. I can do the first one, but he said he could do it since he already has the model.

1. Change the drill guide to a 15 degree angle.
2. Design a 3D printable print head that has some sort of heat shield between the plastic and the metal. Only a concept right now and could change a lot.

I need to know what size for the hole in the drill guide. Or do you just want it the same size and just use it for a pilot hole.
I need to know the hole size / thread size for the quik connect for the 3D printable print head.

My 3D modeling skills are somewhat limited and this guy is a professional engineer (they only hire the best where I work).

TommyDee
03-07-2017, 04:01 AM
I have a concept for the head, but hey, I'll see what the professional comes up with ;)

Yes, stick with 3mm... 2.8 is the alternative which won't matter to the jig.

For M5, you need 4.2mm diameter or just a hair over 3/32".
I'm finding plenty on eBay and Amazon, so this should be good.
They are less deep, which helps.

Drill point for the 4.2mm wants to be 3/32" deep.
This is probably easy enough outside the jig since you can oversize a common 3/32" drill bit (or 4mm.)

Threading can be done with the thread chaser mod. If you're lucky enough to have an M5 tap around, great.
Funny enough, you can bring this back into SAE since 5/32" and 4mm are treated equally in tubing.
By the same token, there is a limited selection of air fittings that are tapped to 10-32 SAE.
Nothing like confusing the system even more huh :)

Anyway, just getting a straight shot at it definitely helps.

Again, aim for the center of the raised triangle.
Here:
1893

- - - - - - - - - -

Direct ingress doesn't look to promising for the rubber covered version.
This is like cutting the cap at a diagonal.
Definitely recommend using the gray one-piece cap and counter-boring for the fitting.
And the fitting should be as small in diameter as possible.
I found a set with no hex on the outside.
There are also fittings where the bottom at the threads is round, not hex.

Maybe the picture will help your engineer, Don, now that it is dismembered.




18951896

Mythandar
03-07-2017, 02:21 PM
I feel like the poor kid who was always 2 toys behind from having the current cool toy. I'm still waiting for some stuff I ordered a month ago :p

Now i need a certain style of fitting and a different tube than I ordered. Then BAM, when that arrives you will all be like "that was sooo 4 forum pages ago" and there will be some newer better system out.

First world problems are tough guys :rolleyes:

bolsoncerrado
03-07-2017, 03:17 PM
I reworked the hotend encasing and rethreaded snugfit the connector. i managed to get the printer to print the first 3 layers or so, then the darn clicking sound again :(

TommyDee
03-07-2017, 04:28 PM
I feel like the poor kid who was always 2 toys behind from having the current cool toy. I'm still waiting for some stuff I ordered a month ago :p

Now i need a certain style of fitting and a different tube than I ordered. Then BAM, when that arrives you will all be like "that was sooo 4 forum pages ago" and there will be some newer better system out.

First world problems are tough guys :rolleyes:

A lot of times, that poor kid get a bargain on their new plasma TV where the cool kids gave up their first born.
There is something to be said to be a late adopter.

It is pretty amazing that we can rework the original stuff at all.


Bo, there is one thing I noticed yesterday while doing a hot-swap filament.
The tubing may be scraping off Teflon that is going into the fitting.
You may need to clean the nozzle (or replace) with the wire trick (pushing it out in reverse).

MegaloDon
03-08-2017, 07:15 AM
Bo, attached are the M6 threaded bulkhead pieces.

I prefer to leave the outer half off my cartridges. Can you think of a way to attach your new bulkheads without needing the outer to hold it in place? Perhaps a redesign of the stl? (If it's not too much trouble.) :p

TommyDee
03-08-2017, 07:45 AM
Part of the function is removing the flex when adding the outer cover.
That is why I half-shelled a couple of mine.

You know you can merge STL's, right?

thermo268
03-08-2017, 03:08 PM
This looks great the bulkhead is nice design. I was going to mill one out off aluminum for its under great stress but these should work.

TommyDee
03-08-2017, 08:35 PM
I prefer to leave the outer half off my cartridges. Can you think of a way to attach your new bulkheads without needing the outer to hold it in place? Perhaps a redesign of the stl? (If it's not too much trouble.) :p


Yep, Don, put your cover back on.
The deflection at the lip of the case is too great and affects the actual pull-back from the nozzle.
Otherwise, try the M5 tap mod in the driver. That will accomplish the same thing.

- - - - - - - - - -


This looks great the bulkhead is nice design. I was going to mill one out off aluminum for its under great stress but these should work.

I've been running one for a few days now. Done a hot swap during a print. Learning why a oversized tube is a problem. But I am gearing up to do some serious conversion in a couple of weeks. I will stick with ABS for the bulkheads, though. Just tougher in the long run.

Also have around a kilometer of different 4mm OD 2mm ID tubing coming and a truckload of different fittings. Let's see what works best :)

- - - - - - - - - -

This is a picture of what bad filament will do on some occasions.

I've been printing these using a stock cartridge setup after rewinding it back into the stock cartridge.
This Hatchbox filament aged quickly when removed from the package.
All the rewound filament toward the center was what was on the outside of the source spool.
This means the filament was under stress all these weeks. -That- was the cause of failure in this case.

Sometimes you see this pattern as on the left pawn and it only extends for a short distance.
This pawn shed the back part of the base with little effort.

I rebuilt the entire cartridge including cleaning the tip completely.
Reloaded some of the same filament from the spool without changing the diameter of the filament.
Back to getting some really nice prints.

Moral of the story, there are simply too many things to go wrong with these machines.
This is a seriously frustrating learning experience.

1904

thermo268
03-09-2017, 02:14 AM
I will never use Hactchbox ever. Did in the past and had a hell of a time with it. Changed settings changed hardwAre only to put old filament back in and it worked fine. This was on my rebuilt da vinci iwill not use it in the cube 3. I made the bulkheads out of PLA because i have used ABS to fix wife truck but keep breaking did it in PLA and been 2 years. I am sure it will degrade it being under the back of the suv.

MegaloDon
03-09-2017, 02:35 AM
You know you can merge STL's, right?

Merge what stl's?

TommyDee
03-09-2017, 02:50 AM
I will never use Hactchbox ever. Did in the past and had a hell of a time with it. Changed settings changed hardwAre only to put old filament back in and it worked fine. This was on my rebuilt da vinci iwill not use it in the cube 3. I made the bulkheads out of PLA because i have used ABS to fix wife truck but keep breaking did it in PLA and been 2 years. I am sure it will degrade it being under the back of the suv.

Now he tells me :( I'm still conflicted about the Hatchbox stuff. If cleans up supports very nicely... but that is only because the bond is much weaker. It must also require more heat that typical because it barely extrudes during purge. I think the purge temp is too low for several common filaments.

Someone with S3D could make us a solid .cube3 print file ... hint hint !!!


Don, I was teasing. I was suggesting merging other pieces to figure out how you want to stiffen the lip on the cartridge without the cover. You know, some stretching in meshmixer or something(?) ;)

MegaloDon
03-09-2017, 03:33 AM
I think I have a filament stretcher around here somewhere. :p

thermo268
03-09-2017, 03:36 AM
i remeber those days messing with people at work telling them to go to the machine shop and get a bolt strecher or pipe. Too funny. lol

MegaloDon
03-09-2017, 03:53 AM
In the Army, we sent a guy to get a camouflage net lighting system. Camouflage net goes over your vehicle so the enemy can't spot it. :confused:

thermo268
03-09-2017, 04:55 AM
Or E4 looking for a fallopian tube ML shop.

- - - - - - - - - -

Whats the difference between the cube 3 & the Ekocycle? They still support that one but it looks identical to the Cube 3. Even the manual is the same.

- - - - - - - - - -

The Ekocycle i the same damn printer just made out of recycled plastic thats it. So why the hell did they screw all the people who own Cube 3? Something stinks and i am not liking this crap if its just because going green crap. Something is night right here.

MegaloDon
03-09-2017, 06:19 AM
Whats the difference between the cube 3 & the Ekocycle? They still support that one but it looks identical to the Cube 3. Even the manual is the same.

The filament is "made in part from post-consumer recycled plastic bottles" according to their website. "The main difference is that the later (Ekocycle) will only print in filament partly comprised of recycled plastic bottles" (from 3ders.org). Try finding a cartridge for them now!

Correction: They do sell them on 3DS website (gray was unavailable) but I couldn't find them anywhere else.

TommyDee
03-09-2017, 06:27 AM
Ekocycle is de-featured. One material and only 200um resolution. Maybe they think they can sustain that. I haven't seen one for sale, though.

MegaloDon
03-09-2017, 06:30 AM
Ekocycle is de-featured. One material and only 200um resolution. Maybe they think they can sustain that. I haven't seen one for sale, though.

According to their site, it will also do 70 micron. If so, it's probably just as bad or worse than the Cube 3's 70.

TommyDee
03-09-2017, 06:45 AM
People say a lot of things, but this is the spec...

1905
Did you find a remnant of an earlier propaganda?

MegaloDon
03-09-2017, 07:06 AM
Did you find a remnant of an earlier propaganda?

Yup, here: https://www.3dsystems.com/blog/2014/06/ekocycle-cuber-3d-printer-remake-using-recycled-plastic-bottles

"Prints in beautiful 70-micron high resolution"

thermo268
03-09-2017, 01:16 PM
My point is they still support the Ekocycle even the mobil app still works. But they screw over the people who purchased the Cube 3. Nothing has changed hardware between the 2 software still using the same program. The firmware is the only change. The cartridge has changed because the one i just got from ebay the little window in the front is no longer there and on the tops of the extruder arm is rubberized thats it. Still have my arduino that i did use for my Da Vinci going to see if i can figure a workaround in the script. But again if they discontinued the Cube 3 just to go green to be political correct sorry its BS. They have the same mentality as Microsoft that even though you bought their product you really don't own it. Thats funny! Ands its time that the FTC force these companies to label their product that have some type of DRM & not as it is now buy get it home use it then need resupply only to find out you have no options.

TommyDee
03-09-2017, 07:26 PM
Yup, here: https://www.3dsystems.com/blog/2014/06/ekocycle-cuber-3d-printer-remake-using-recycled-plastic-bottles

"Prints in beautiful 70-micron high resolution"

Nice find! :) Yep, that was a 2014 blog.
It never made it to the product. This is a very typical bait and switch marketing routing... hype hype hype ... and never deliver.
That's how they lost their shorts on this one. They were talking (with CocaCola no less) but not listening.

- - - - - - - - - -

Their Heeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeere...

1907

thermo268
03-10-2017, 12:05 AM
Also a class action suit against 3D systems don't remember what i read. (Yea i am old as dirt). I did right a letter to the FTC about this DRM. Companies should have to label their product so when we buy it we know what to expect not buy it use it then find out that we are locked into buying only from them. Apple tried the DRM with itunes & it failed big time. Companies have to give the consumer the right of choice not forced onto us without are knowledge. Few years ago my wife bought a cat Genuine. It was great until the cart ran out. I was like no problem i will just refill it. NOT damn thing had a chip in it hidden behind the label. Shame gotta hack a litter box. Those carts cost $27.99 a pop plus shipping.

The push fittings should work about the same i have but are plastic. I would love to see what the motherboard is in the Cube 3.

TommyDee
03-10-2017, 01:26 AM
The motherboard is a long skinny thing sitting behind the display.

Haven't you seen the teardown on OpenBuilds?

Alright... HOTSWAP IS HERE!

1909

Yep, that's a test print through the cube setup (not a slight of hand).

- - - - - - - - - -

And if anyone wants to know, a 17" [43cm] of free flying tubing is plenty.

thermo268
03-10-2017, 02:28 AM
No did not look for tear down cause i had no plans on doing any internal mods. I will check it out. Hell been a while since i was on openbuilds.

TommyDee
03-10-2017, 04:52 AM
It is worth reviewing even for the mildly curious :)

http://www.openbuilds.com/threads/tear-down-of-cubify-cube-3-3d-printer-convert-to-reprap.5689/

bolsoncerrado
03-10-2017, 09:34 AM
We all started there I think hehe


So, do we have a drill guide for the 15 thing? or we changed degrees already? :D

TommyDee
03-10-2017, 05:00 PM
I'm sticking with 15 degrees, yes. Don is working on the drill guide.

MegaloDon
03-11-2017, 12:37 AM
Don is working on the drill guide.

I'm sitting on my arse waiting for my friend to finish it! :p He's been real busy lately.

TommyDee
03-11-2017, 01:24 AM
3 nozzles done, one to go.

MegaloDon
03-12-2017, 11:46 PM
I'm sitting on my arse waiting for my friend to finish it! :p He's been real busy lately.

Ok Tom, here is the initial test for the 15 degree guide. Can you test it to see if everything lines up properly? If everything fits, he will do the Dremel guide version.

bolsoncerrado
03-13-2017, 12:05 AM
Adding more lazyness to the event, are there compatible AND printable bolts and threads for the fixture? :D

MegaloDon
03-13-2017, 12:24 AM
Adding more lazyness to the event, are there compatible AND printable bolts and threads for the fixture? :D

Just use Crazy Glue. Good luck getting it apart afterwards!! :rolleyes:

bolsoncerrado
03-13-2017, 02:31 AM
Elastic bands shouldbe enough then hehe

TommyDee
03-13-2017, 06:06 AM
C-clamp?...

- - - - - - - - - -


Ok Tom, here is the initial test for the 15 degree guide. Can you test it to see if everything lines up properly? If everything fits, he will do the Dremel guide version.

Printed and checked. Looks great! Probably need a depth guide to drill up to 3/8"/10mm. I'm going to assume for a moment that a 118 degree drill-point is shallow enough to get a good thread and tight fit while providing clearance for the odd shaped fittings. So a pair with a large hole and a collar clamp (depth gage) could solve the recess.

thermo268
03-13-2017, 10:44 AM
Yes i did see that tear down but wanted more info on the chip sets so i bought another cube 3 broken to get more info on the motherboard. Just bad timing for me got to replace rack and pinion on the wifes traiBlazer. (All she knows is gas & go) Pisses me off because wife and kids only tell me after the fact never hey dad or hun car or truck making strange sounds. lol o well

TommyDee
03-25-2017, 09:11 PM
Aha... yes, they did that discussion a lot on the OpenBuild forum... at least on how to attach code trackers.

- - - - - - - - - -

Aha!

Finally, we are making some level of progress on the 4mm tube fittings.

Today I got these cheap brass M6 fittings in my ongoing quest for the best fitting.
This one has some great qualities for the KISS cartridge upgrade.

1962

Over the recent Amazon fittings, which were nice nickel plated brass with black caps, these even look cheap.

I have not dissected one yet as it hadn't had time to fail yet. It appears to have the same gripper system.
It behaves as a snap-action gripper in a modular housing. This is allowing some rotation tolerance that the other one did not.
You can actually see the plastic module housing above the brass housing.
This plastic piece sits still if you rotate the housing slowly while holding an inserted tube still. The stiction varies significantly, though.
Another pro is the fact that it too has very little vertical free-travel when engaged.

This fitting also has a bore that holds the stock 2.8mm tube perfectly, and it has a rim that stops it from going through.
Not a requirement as a 3mm tube or 1/8" brass tube works just fine.

But it is a 6mm thread in the cartridge bulkheads. Instructions and STL about that are somewhere in this thread.

This gets my seal of approval for the time being.

19631964

And if all that holds true for this fittings, these should work nicely on the hot-end:
1965

bolsoncerrado
03-26-2017, 09:39 PM
You forgot the ebay links or its just me?

Also, you embeded the WHOLE BRASS on the KISS holders?

TommyDee
03-29-2017, 05:50 PM
No, they are pressed to the brass only. Rosettes just help spin them on and off without a wrench.

Just search the description... you will get a lot of choices. These would be PC4-M5

- - - - - - - - - -

Some new bulkheads.

These fit tighter and more solid.

M6 thread

ABS and PLA marked as before.

Supports built in.

1979
1981
1982

love the rafts for ABS in 3D Builder. They simply WORK!
...except the part about cleaning it off.

Fuganater
04-12-2017, 08:57 PM
OK so I am looking to try this out. I'm not sure I am fully understanding things though. I have the 3mm OD and 4mm OD PTFE tubing. It seems like I have to join them inside the nozzle housing under a push fitting to go in the nozzle correct? And the preferred push fitting seems to be M6 for both the nozzle housing and filament cartridge? http://www.ebay.com/itm/222169893835

TommyDee
04-13-2017, 12:10 AM
The latest bulkhead prints above use M6. Inside the cartridge, you can use stock tubing with the barrel nut. Just make sure it is clear for pre-tractor'd filament. Remember to re-use the structural tube that goes around the feeder tube.

On the hot-end, I use M5 fittings for 2 reasons: 1) The through-hole size is smaller than 3mm (important) and 2) the fitting's thread length is shorter. This is advantageous to preserve the rib inside the housing. This rib will guide the tube inside the housing. You can use some of the stock tubing, with or without the barrel nut. Just make sure it is exactly the right length, err on a hair too short. Remember that the nozzle can retract depending on the push-nut's position.

Let me know when your head stops spinning. And ask away.

Fuganater
04-13-2017, 07:17 PM
The latest bulkhead prints above use M6. Inside the cartridge, you can use stock tubing with the barrel nut. Just make sure it is clear for pre-tractor'd filament. Remember to re-use the structural tube that goes around the feeder tube.

On the hot-end, I use M5 fittings for 2 reasons: 1) The through-hole size is smaller than 3mm (important) and 2) the fitting's thread length is shorter. This is advantageous to preserve the rib inside the housing. This rib will guide the tube inside the housing. You can use some of the stock tubing, with or without the barrel nut. Just make sure it is exactly the right length, err on a hair too short. Remember that the nozzle can retract depending on the push-nut's position.

Let me know when your head stops spinning. And ask away.

I get most of the spool part. I'm just confused on how to combine the 2 different sized PTFE tubing. Are you drilling out the 1.75/4mm tubing and inserting the 1.75/3mm tubing?

Same for the hot end. Now I know what size fittings to get so I'll buy them. My best guess is 3mm PTFE tubing goes into the nozzle and drill into the 4mm tubing to insert it. Or do they butt together in that M5 fitting?

I also saw something about drilling it at 15 degrees. Someone said there was going to be an STL but I have not seen it. I may load up tinkercad and see if I can make one.

MegaloDon
04-14-2017, 02:06 AM
I also saw something about drilling it at 15 degrees. Someone said there was going to be an STL but I have not seen it. I may load up tinkercad and see if I can make one.

http://www.print3dforum.com/showthread.php/927-Cartridge-Replacement-Tube-The-KISS-Method!!?p=40630&viewfull=1#post40630

TommyDee
04-14-2017, 04:32 AM
The concept about the "joining" is simpler than obvious.

The tube up to the bulkhead is trapped in the cartridge. The little bulkhead print will receive about 6-8mm of tubing... and the outer tube is stiff to keep it in place... and the filament keeps it from getting dislocated if something were to go wrong. So the tubing between the driver and the cartridge bulkhead is now self contained. The cartridge housing maintains a solid distance between the driver and the bulkhead, and the tube(s) inside are managed.

The Hot-End is the same way. The threaded fitting traps a piece of tubing between the fitting's end and the aluminum end of the nozzle. You add a fitting with a 2-2.7mm hole in it, and the short piece of 2.8mm tubing is also trapped within the nozzle housing. This is -very- convenient.

Only one link left that gets self-contained... the tube linking the two fittings.

It is a nice connection... one may think, too nice (less flex)

MegaloDon
04-15-2017, 11:56 PM
Can you guess what this is? (And no, it's not from Star Wars.) :p


201120122013

Mythandar
04-16-2017, 12:12 AM
Looks like a cartridge replacement. Possibly with a manual filament feed.

MegaloDon
04-16-2017, 12:19 AM
Looks like a cartridge replacement. Possibly with a manual filament feed.

Give that man a cigar! :D

2014

Still a work in progress, but I'm currently using it. Works quite well!

Can't get the gears to print properly, so I'm afraid we'll have to go with metal gears. Trying to find a good source.

Mythandar
04-16-2017, 01:10 AM
How do you deal with the chip?

MegaloDon
04-16-2017, 05:31 AM
How do you deal with the chip?

Right now it has a place to glue or tape a chip in it. I would not recommend gluing it though, since I plan on adding a feature to be able to switch between ABS and PLA chips later. This would require reprinting the bottom leg.

Mythandar
04-16-2017, 06:00 AM
Right now it has a place to glue or tape a chip in it. I would not recommend gluing it though, since I plan on adding a feature to be able to switch between ABS and PLA chips later. This would require reprinting the bottom leg.

Sweet. Looking very good.

TommyDee
04-16-2017, 06:37 AM
Here's what I was thinking on the local lightweight spool holder... or just a small coil of filament.
It's pretty tough. Will hold a full 3DS spool.

2019

bolsoncerrado
04-16-2017, 06:56 PM
Wow! Love the replacements, both! Congratz u all!

MegaloDon
04-16-2017, 10:52 PM
Here's what I was thinking on the local lightweight spool holder... or just a small coil of filament.
It's pretty tough. Will hold a full 3DS spool.

Would be nice if it could hold a 1 KG spool. Then I could adapt it to fit on my mod. Would have to go on the left side due to the manual feed. I'm sure the arm would support a 1 KG spool, but it might be too much strain on the clamp.

Mythandar
04-17-2017, 04:35 AM
Maybe something could be added so it's supported on the inside of where the cartridge sits in.

TommyDee
04-17-2017, 06:15 AM
A 1KG spool deserve a sled.
My aim was to deal with clumsy spools or maybe 10 meters of many colors that you can swap out during the print.

It is fairly sturdy... surprisingly so, as a matter of fact.

Fuganater
04-17-2017, 11:42 AM
Give that man a cigar! :D

2014

Still a work in progress, but I'm currently using it. Works quite well!

Can't get the gears to print properly, so I'm afraid we'll have to go with metal gears. Trying to find a good source.

I'd love to test this out if you are willing to post or send the files.

MegaloDon
04-17-2017, 11:46 PM
I'd love to test this out if you are willing to post or send the files.

Almost ready. I just resolved the gear problem by using 2 drive gears and eliminating the rest of the drive mechanism.

thermo268
04-21-2017, 05:39 AM
I used your bulkhead but made them out of pla and they work awesome. Tuned out perfect fit thank you. You saved me the time of drawing one up.

bolsoncerrado
04-21-2017, 08:49 AM
Which bulkhead you mean @thermo268?

MegaloDon
04-25-2017, 02:40 AM
Almost ready. I just resolved the gear problem by using 2 drive gears and eliminating the rest of the drive mechanism.

Ok, using 2 drive gears doesn't seem to work. I'm not sure how it's working on this one -> http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2060242

The problem is that it skips no matter where you set the tension. Having teeth on both sides of the filament means the tension required to not make it skip, makes it bite into the filament way too much. This will cause too much stress on the drive motor and the filament looks like my cat chewed on it.

I had my doubts when I saw that someone was using 2 drive gears, but they say it works, so I figured I would give it a try.

So I guess it's back to the drawing board for now.

If anyone else wants to get involved in this project and contribute suggestions / testing, please feel free to pm me. I'm not sure if I should start a new thread or wait til it is at least beta. What do you think, Bo?

Oh, I almost forgot to mention... We got hit by a tornado Friday and are still recovering. :(

Mythandar
04-25-2017, 02:56 AM
Is it using 2 drive gears? Looks to me like it uses the gears from the cartridge.

MegaloDon
04-25-2017, 03:02 AM
Is it using 2 drive gears? Looks to me like it uses the gears from the cartridge.

Yes. That's what I meant. The drive gears from 2 cartridges.

Mythandar
04-25-2017, 03:25 AM
Yes. That's what I meant. The drive gears from 2 cartridges.
I haven't been into a cartridge in a long time so may be asking something stupid, but why can't we just use the 2 gears that are in the cartridge already? is the one attached to the aluminum?

MegaloDon
04-25-2017, 03:55 AM
I haven't been into a cartridge in a long time so may be asking something stupid, but why can't we just use the 2 gears that are in the cartridge already? is the one attached to the aluminum?

I think I know what you mean. One is not a gear. It is a smooth wheel that provides tension for the gear on the other side. And yes, it is permanently attached to the metal housing.

2031


This is what I'm working on now.

2032

I will almost certainly be redesigning this.

Mythandar
04-25-2017, 04:21 AM
I can see why 2 drive gears might not work, those are very aggressive. Could you design it to use a 608 bearing on the other side? As you know the prusa MK2 extruder just has a bearing that's used on the tension adjustment side. 608's are easy to get for everyone.

MegaloDon
04-25-2017, 04:43 AM
Could you design it to use a 608 bearing on the other side?

The reason for using the other gear was so you can manually feed the filament from the front. You would put a 'key' in the other gear to turn it. I'm looking at another approach right now.

Fuganater
09-29-2017, 06:57 AM
I love this so I did a video on it. (just like the one I did on how to use the hack)



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BNjX6FZ0UaI



Few questions.

Has anyone had the 3 mm PTFE come out of the 4 mm PTFE? If so how are you keeping it in there? 1 of my extrudes is fine but the other slipped out.

Is there a reason why none of the STLs are on Thingiverse? I've linked a lot of the posts here in my video but I would love to link the files on Thingiverse.

bolsoncerrado
09-29-2017, 08:13 AM
Many of the files are in .cube3 format, that's why.

Thanks for the video too!!

You may want to switch to better quality fittings (FESTO are the best ones I think), or print and use these:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1620721

Fuganater
09-29-2017, 01:28 PM
Many of the files are in .cube3 format, that's why.

Thanks for the video too!!

You may want to switch to better quality fittings (FESTO are the best ones I think), or print and use these:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1620721

Its not coming out of the fitting. The PTFE tubes came out of each other.

All the ones I downloaded for the video I made were in STL format which I printed either on the Cube or another one of my printers. Its just easier to keep track of the pieces in a Cube3 collection on Thingiverse.

bolsoncerrado
09-29-2017, 02:22 PM
AH the inverse.

THen try to push the fitting as much as possible while also pushing down the PFTE against the metal part... It's a shame when it happens, yes.

MegaloDon
09-29-2017, 11:51 PM
I love this so I did a video on it. (just like the one I did on how to use the hack)

Few questions.

Has anyone had the 3 mm PTFE come out of the 4 mm PTFE? If so how are you keeping it in there? 1 of my extrudes is fine but the other slipped out.

Is there a reason why none of the STLs are on Thingiverse? I've linked a lot of the posts here in my video but I would love to link the files on Thingiverse.

This is a fairly old thread and we have made it much easier to upgrade your Cube 3 with printed parts.

We have 2 options for replacing the cartridge completely:
http://www.print3dforum.com/showthread.php/1005-Cube-3-Extruder-HUB-KISS-Method-(DiY-version-by-TommyDee)
http://www.print3dforum.com/showthread.php/1014-Cube-3-Extruder-Hub-V2-FTF-(Free-The-Filament)

And a 3D Printed print head.
http://www.print3dforum.com/showthread.php/1075-(BETA)-Cube3-Printable-Nozzle-Replacement-by-MegaloDon

As well as other hacks; some still being worked on.
I can put my hacks on Thingiverse if you like. I have a couple on there now. My user name is MajorOCD.


Bo, can you update the links on the "Printable Cube3 Hacks and Parts" thread?

Yencaray
03-19-2018, 07:25 PM
This is awesome! Thank you!