View Full Version : Welcome Creality 10 Owners!

03-09-2017, 05:10 PM
PLease post and share your experiences with Creality 3D Printers here!

03-18-2017, 06:04 PM
Thanks. Looking forward to interacting with the group!

03-18-2017, 07:17 PM
Feel free to welcome everyone to join! I hope to get (finally!) mine this next week and start creating an index of changes/upgrades asap :)

03-18-2017, 07:25 PM
I found some interesting parts/upgrades on Thingiverse.

03-18-2017, 07:59 PM
Yep we need to organize them in an easy list for newcomers to go thru :D

04-01-2017, 08:33 PM
Hi everyone! Just received the Cr-10, my very first printer :) I will be using it mainly for printing prop parts, hopefully soon I will be able to share some photos (if I can make this evil machine work lol. Thanks for all the info you are sharing guys!

04-03-2017, 09:07 AM
Welcome to the forum @Ric! ;)

06-11-2017, 02:32 AM
Talk about frustration.

My printer came in last week.

I am working in the Northeast US and the printer is in south Louisiana.

I won't be home until the second week of July.


10-10-2017, 10:59 PM
Just ordered a CR-10S which will be here on Thursday. This is my first 3d Printer, so I am not sure what tips or help I will need. I did order LOKBUILD, as I read on some boards that this will help with adhesion during the printing. Any help? Anything I need to do, check, or verify? Thanks..

10-11-2017, 08:05 AM
Welcome all!

10-12-2017, 05:42 AM
Just ordered a CR-10S which will be here on Thursday. This is my first 3d Printer, so I am not sure what tips or help I will need. I did order LOKBUILD, as I read on some boards that this will help with adhesion during the printing. Any help? Anything I need to do, check, or verify? Thanks..Get

The only thing i did was get purple glue stick and level the bed. I have run through 4 kilos of filament without a problem.

10-12-2017, 09:40 PM


Revived my CR10 a week ago,https://goo.gl/9cFyHR but still having trouble getting it together.

Has anyone here in the UK received their printer with foreign power leads. (Not UK style).

When the printer arrived it had 2 leads, one had 2 pin plug and the other one was a very strange 3 pin plug but definitely not for the UK.https://goo.gl/n2MxKf

10-13-2017, 02:25 AM
The strange one is NEMA 5-15. This is a USA plug.

The two prong version is somewhat EU universal.
it is also an adapter for the NEMA 5-15.

Rarely do manufacturers provide other options.
Typically, if you have a different standard in your country, you can buy any IEC320-C13 (that is the "the business end") cord that is appropriate for your country.
Optionally, there are many universal adapters out there. That will allow you to plug in different power cords into the adapter.
The universal adapter you want is the one that will properly mate to your wall sockets.

10-15-2017, 07:16 PM
Thanks TommyDee for replying

It turns out I had an old flat screen monitor that I bought from a car boot sale in my garage with a plug exactly the same as the one on the back of the control box. So it all turned out OK.

Thanks again.


11-01-2017, 11:19 AM
Just got my CR-10 5s with touchscreen, but am having trouble.
The Z-axis moves in response to input on the screen, but the X and Y axes will not move. I just get loud buzzing noises from the motors and they get hot. The noise stops if I click the micro switch for the axis.
The X and Y axes move freely with the power off.

Does anyone have any ideas?

03-23-2018, 06:38 PM
I am thinking of getting a 3D printer.
I use Autocad 2000 and have a lot of 3d drawings (DWG)
How do I change them into something that the Creality Cr-10 can use to print?
Thanks Sam

03-23-2018, 07:19 PM
You will need to create 3 dimensional models. Flat drawings only make flat parts.

03-23-2018, 08:10 PM
They are in 3D (X-Y-Z).
I need to know what I need to put it in the printer format?
Thank San

03-23-2018, 08:40 PM
The format that the printer understands is known as a "facet" file disguised with extensions such as .stl, .obj, .wrl... etc.
There is precious little you can do with these in Creo, but it will generate these files.

I would suggest opening the 3D model and use the save-as to create an .STL file.
You will see some options and when you apply them, they will show on your model.
This is exactly what will be in your file.

The output file can be read by your slicer software.
One intermediate piece of free software I recommend is Meshmixer by Autodesk.
This program can manipulate and enhance printable part files.

After this there are slicer programs.
This is something that converts the STL files to layers that the printer understands known as G-Code.
Slicers are Cura, Simplify3D, and others.

Let us know how you get on with these instructions.

03-23-2018, 10:51 PM
I think I can save my autocad file to a STL file.
Then I should down Meshmixer by autodesk and open my file into it?
Then what?
Save it and use my computer to run the Printer?

03-23-2018, 11:58 PM
First of all please know I do not have a CR-10 but I do know it uses external slicer applications.

So, yes, AutoCAD will output a file in .STL format. It may have a description of "Stereo Lithography".

It is the 3D model that you want to output from AutoCAD, not a 2D drawing.
Also, the model should be solid as opposed to surfaces only.
Be sure to import the file back into AutoCAD to make sure it looks like what you expect.

The next step is to check for the need for supports.
I suggest Meshmixer primarily for post-export processing.
Meshmixer does a fairly good job of making supports or changes to .STL files.
Meshmixer is not always required.

What does need to happened is to convert your .STL file to a machine code that the printer understands.
These are "slicers". Cura and Simply3D are two examples of slicers. I am not sure what slicer CR-10 recommends.
Anyway, the slicer application is where the settings specific to your printers are managed.
In other words, the .STL file is a generic solid 3D model made up of little triangles.
And this closed-boundary triangle file (.STL) gets turned into a file that tells -your- printer what to do based on settings in the slicer app.
The output file from the slicer is sent to the 3D printer and the printer acts on it.

Slicers will also manage certain requirements for successful prints. There are things called supports and rafts that also need understanding.
Basically, there are standard routines in the slicer applications that help you stick the 3D print to the build plate and also makes sure you are not printing in thin air.
Supports have to be printed to make sure things like outstretched arms, for instance, in the print don't just make balls of filament because it has nothing to -rest- on.

I have the advantage of using a closed-loop system. One available slicer and a small subset of options.
The 3D Systems Cube3 is as close to plug-n-play you can get. And I feed it .STL files and it does the rest, good or bad.
Here is where I use Meshmixer to add supports because they are better than the supports my slicer creates.

There are a lot of things to learn about 3D printers. Feel free to browse the forum for ideas and more questions to ask. Generally it is easy to get files to print. Most CAD systems will output appropriate file formats. You also have Thingiverse for fun things to print. Start thinking in terms of what you want in a printer. How many heads and the time penalty for multiple colors; do you want to tinker with the setting or something that just works; are you willing to buy slicer apps or are you aiming to stay open source throughout? Stuff like that will come up in your consideration.