Cube3 running with e3DV6 hotend!

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Originally Posted by TommyDee

What, no colorful heat-shrink on the solder terminals? :p

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Of course in the final version they will be there! ^_^

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Originally Posted by TommyDee

Maybe turn the y-axis switch 90*CCW (tray switch)? With wires, that may just be cleaner.

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Moved it in already, otherwise the nozzle was stopping right on the edge of the table. That provided more space for the cables.

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Originally Posted by TommyDee

From an ME point of view, we like to let the switch signal but not interfere.
However, you are in a tight spot on both X and Z.

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That's right, have no idea how to solve it. Tested for impact, they hold just fine. Thinking of enabling the limit switch option in Smoothieware, but that triggers general error, needs restarting every time.

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Originally Posted by TommyDee

oh, and maybe connect x and z to a single plate so you don't need to disturb the rail screw.

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That was an initial idea, but then I felt so lazy to do that :D Rail screw is just fine, I have placed a longer one.

The z-hard stop is the nozzle, sadly. I would consider an adjustable mechanical stop just below the nozzle crash.
A z-sensor really doesn't make sense past the hard stop so you need to match the hard stop with the actual trigger from the switch.
You could use the switch for a slightly different function, such as a "slow-ahead" signal that can have steps programmed in after that point.
You might have a bounce problem in the switch if you try to set a difference between crash and the 0.07mm gap.
Then again, maybe it is not a home signal. Maybe it is a motor cut off when everything else goes awry, including the hard stop.

What is the DIY crowd's interpretation of how to properly use the Z-signal?

R u gonna do an Instructables when you're finished?! :D

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Originally Posted by TommyDee

The z-hard stop is the nozzle, sadly. I would consider an adjustable mechanical stop just below the nozzle crash.
A z-sensor really doesn't make sense past the hard stop so you need to match the hard stop with the actual trigger from the switch.
You could use the switch for a slightly different function, such as a "slow-ahead" signal that can have steps programmed in after that point.
You might have a bounce problem in the switch if you try to set a difference between crash and the 0.07mm gap.
Then again, maybe it is not a home signal. Maybe it is a motor cut off when everything else goes awry, including the hard stop.

What is the DIY crowd's interpretation of how to properly use the Z-signal?

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Well, whatever I have seen so far is accomplished the same way I have, that's the most common DIY approach.
I have tried to crash the Z-caret to Z-endstop, nothing fatal happened so far.
Adding more sensors requires the support from the software side, which is currently not in place. I am still doing more research on this.
Of course smoothieware is open-source, so we can write whatever we want, to add the functionality you mentioned above. But that's gonna be the later stage for me.
Currently I am researching the "Soft endstops" feature, which limits the movement after the homing procedure is done. Looks promising, but didn't work so far for me.

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Originally Posted by bolsoncerrado

R u gonna do an Instructables when you're finished?! :D

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Of course, once I am satisfied with the results! ^_^ Not much left, I need to finally assemble the hotends and tune them. Haven't done it before.
Plus, the challenging part would be aligning and leveling the nozzles. Once it is done, I will run some tests on the open frame, and move on with assembling the printer.

Looking forward to what you come up with. And I am not advocating an additional sensor, just playing with the logic of the available gap.

Finally solved the problem with soft endstops. My bad, I was using the old firmware.
Now everything works! No more grinding sounds ^_^
But now my concern is, how to use the wiper blades to clean the nozzles.

Video:

https://youtu.be/YTBOeHnA6AY

Formula 1 speed ^_^:

https://youtu.be/bG25cCB7tng

You don't need the wipers anymore. That is a 3DS solution for selling more consumables.

Remember that ring every other machine draws before printing the part?... That's the "purge".

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So where is the Z-switch triggered?

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Originally Posted by TommyDee

So where is the Z-switch triggered?

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Sorry, forgot to capture this moment. Will do next time.

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Originally Posted by TommyDee

You don't need the wipers anymore. That is a 3DS solution for selling more consumables.

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I actually liked the idea of placing the printhead above the bin to purge some filament, before starting the print :) But I can live without it :)

No worries.

I'm still trying to zero in on the "normal" DIY Z-homing works from the hardware perspective.

So here is me convincing myself Z-home would be when the platen is at the bottom?
That would make the upper switch an "emergency stop function" if you implemented it.

This makes sense to me if you think about lead screw setups.
Cube 3 has the advantage that the bottom is the bottom (home) when you un-power (and un-short) the stepper motor.
The number of steps between the bottom (home) and a proper filament gap to the plate is the variable that counts in Z.

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Originally Posted by Kiza

Sorry, forgot to capture this moment. Will do next time.



I actually liked the idea of placing the printhead above the bin to purge some filament, before starting the print :) But I can live without it :)

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Can't you write that into a gcode format and use that as the part's gcode prefix (setup routine)?
I'd say that would be something a lot of gcode printer people would be fond of.

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Originally Posted by TommyDee

Can't you write that into a gcode format and use that as the part's gcode prefix (setup routine)?
I'd say that would be something a lot of gcode printer people would be fond of.

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Yeah, but in this case I either change the horizontal size of the print table, and my 0 point is outside the real table, or, I need to find out if I can enable/disable the soft endstops using gcode.