We all are haha! :D
Start with a nice BOM! :D
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We all are haha! :D
Start with a nice BOM! :D
Same here!
Now that I have a Prusa I don't mind taking the Cube apart and rebuild :cool: I would like to go with a 2in1out Extruder (as I hate to level 2 Extruders). Idea is to use the Cube with a rather small nozzle to do miniature prints.
So Yes - a BOM would be awesome!
Sure thing, I will start preparing the BOM.
Currently I'm trying to put together the design of the new heated bed, less bulky. The idea is to use the original table (I already removed the white coating on top of it) with original magnets glued in, but upside down. From the bottom I want to attach the heater PCB, custom designed, with 3 holes for the magnets, using 3M 468MP adhesive tape. Never had any experience with PCBs, Gerber or KiCad so far. Any help is welcome here. My cube runs on 24V, I am aiming on the 4.8 ohm resistance of the heated bed.
You will have to calculate how much current you Need for your heatbed... The original PS will Not be enough My guess is you will have to Go 12,5-15A to have decent heatbed powerQuote:
Originally Posted by Kiza
Did that already, it's gonna be 5A max, currently I'm drawing 3.6A from my existing 24V 100W silicon heat-pad.
I already swapped the original one with 24V 9.2A MeanWell PS, with the same connector.
I just need to create the PCB "gerber" file to send for manufacturing.
Perhaps do a run and share the costs with us hehe
Crap, I had completely overlooked that. We can easily make custom heater boards cheap.
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Kiza, what trace-resistance are you aiming for and for how many watts?
4.8Ohm, 120W at 24V.Quote:
Originally Posted by TommyDee
What's a good thermister and connector? Trying to maintain some level of commonality.
You're talking 5 amps at 24V so the standard power brick for the Cube3 will work; aim a little under 120 watts for margin maybe.
Relieve the magnets? Use the reliefs as a plate fixing guide? Adhesive attachment? LOL Okay, you got me interested.
Thermistor - probably NTC104GT-2, any supported by the software will do. Connector - so far Molex microfit 3.0, right angle.Quote:
Originally Posted by TommyDee
Yep, but with 2 extruders it will be over the top, I already have 9.2A brick for it.Quote:
Originally Posted by TommyDee
Here is a quick sketch, view from the bottom:Quote:
Originally Posted by TommyDee
Attachment 4059
Stock table with white stuff removed, turned upside-down (magnet pockets will open from the bottom). Magnets glued in with thermal glue.
PCB is attached to the table with 3M 468MP. PCB magnet holes can serve as table stabilizers.
Definitely wasn't thinking of sharing a single supply - more like dedicating separate supply to the heater. They cost less than $20.
Peeling the white stuff from the base build plate might not be wise. I suspect there was a serious 'flattening' process when they made the plate. I suspect you will need to flatten the plate again using a granite stone with sandpaper. Can be done but you will want to check flatness of the backside. I know they are not very flat but what is tolerable?
Can we design the traces so that the magnets are 'reverse' heated? Say - leave sufficient annular clearance around the magnets so the aluminum around the magnets are somewhat cooler than the remainder of the plate. Let the heat come from the surface, so to speak.
What temperature are we aiming for? And at what temperature do the plastic caps start to deform? Should it all be metal on metal; magnet directly to the plate, caps removed? The small pillars that hold the current magnets are a great heat-break to the carriage.
How about glass with magnets? Would that make a better surface, w/ or w/o LokBuild? I still have a great 170mm B-glass plate that is absolutely dead flat. That might be a good place to start with know flatness. This also provides [and robs] an 1/8" for the magnets and gives a little breathing room for the carriage. Worth considering.
I'll look into the thermistor. I have no clue as to software options so I need guidance there. I just need to be able to see it to solder it.
5 amps isn't hard to deal with. I'm very tempted to just bolt a lug on but no. It requires very robust strain reliefs on the wires. 16awg silicone wire should suffice for lead-wires. A pigtail connector isn't out of the realm of possibility either. How about a 5.5x2.1 setup for quick disconnect? Very DIY compatible.
Adhesion is the only way I can see keeping the PCB close to the substrate being heated.
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Where did you want the heat to be sensed? Yes, they make good quality thermistors that are surface mount. an 0805 package can be soldered with relative ease. Just need to know what I am looking for as value goes.
Considering the price of the PCBs are cheap and most of the cost is shipping, make a 'heat-shield' board. All copper to reflect heat back up and avoid heating the carriage components. These simple techniques are used on cars very day. A simple radiation shield is highly effective.
Well, the white stuff is removed few years ago, can't do much about it :D I'm using 170mm b-glass now and will use it with the stock table too, that will solve the flatness issues. Regarding the plastic caps, I think they will hold just well, I'm aiming for the 110° C temperature of the heated bed, the way I use it now.Quote:
Originally Posted by TommyDee
Regarding the thermistors, here what's available in Marlin:
Code://===========================================================================
//============================= Thermal Settings ============================
//===========================================================================
// @section temperature
/**
* --NORMAL IS 4.7kohm PULLUP!-- 1kohm pullup can be used on hotend sensor, using correct resistor and table
*
* Temperature sensors available:
*
* -5 : PT100 / PT1000 with MAX31865 (only for sensors 0-1)
* -3 : thermocouple with MAX31855 (only for sensors 0-1)
* -2 : thermocouple with MAX6675 (only for sensors 0-1)
* -4 : thermocouple with AD8495
* -1 : thermocouple with AD595
* 0 : not used
* 1 : 100k thermistor - best choice for EPCOS 100k (4.7k pullup)
* 331 : (3.3V scaled thermistor 1 table for MEGA)
* 332 : (3.3V scaled thermistor 1 table for DUE)
* 2 : 200k thermistor - ATC Semitec 204GT-2 (4.7k pullup)
* 202 : 200k thermistor - Copymaster 3D
* 3 : Mendel-parts thermistor (4.7k pullup)
* 4 : 10k thermistor !! do not use it for a hotend. It gives bad resolution at high temp. !!
* 5 : 100K thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2/104NT-4-R025H42G (Used in ParCan, J-Head, and E3D) (4.7k pullup)
* 501 : 100K Zonestar (Tronxy X3A) Thermistor
* 502 : 100K Zonestar Thermistor used by hot bed in Zonestar Průša P802M
* 512 : 100k RPW-Ultra hotend thermistor (4.7k pullup)
* 6 : 100k EPCOS - Not as accurate as table 1 (created using a fluke thermocouple) (4.7k pullup)
* 7 : 100k Honeywell thermistor 135-104LAG-J01 (4.7k pullup)
* 71 : 100k Honeywell thermistor 135-104LAF-J01 (4.7k pullup)
* 8 : 100k 0603 SMD Vishay NTCS0603E3104FXT (4.7k pullup)
* 9 : 100k GE Sensing AL03006-58.2K-97-G1 (4.7k pullup)
* 10 : 100k RS thermistor 198-961 (4.7k pullup)
* 11 : 100k beta 3950 1% thermistor (Used in Keenovo AC silicone mats and most Wanhao i3 machines) (4.7k pullup)
* 12 : 100k 0603 SMD Vishay NTCS0603E3104FXT (4.7k pullup) (calibrated for Makibox hot bed)
* 13 : 100k Hisens 3950 1% up to 300°C for hotend "Simple ONE " & "Hotend "All In ONE"
* 15 : 100k thermistor calibration for JGAurora A5 hotend
* 18 : ATC Semitec 204GT-2 (4.7k pullup) Dagoma.Fr - MKS_Base_DKU001327
* 20 : Pt100 with circuit in the Ultimainboard V2.x with 5v excitation (AVR)
* 21 : Pt100 with circuit in the Ultimainboard V2.x with 3.3v excitation (STM32 \ LPC176x....)
* 22 : 100k (hotend) with 4.7k pullup to 3.3V and 220R to analog input (as in GTM32 Pro vB)
* 23 : 100k (bed) with 4.7k pullup to 3.3v and 220R to analog input (as in GTM32 Pro vB)
* 30 : Kis3d Silicone heating mat 200W/300W with 6mm precision cast plate (EN AW 5083) NTC100K / B3950 (4.7k pullup)
* 201 : Pt100 with circuit in Overlord, similar to Ultimainboard V2.x
* 60 : 100k Maker's Tool Works Kapton Bed Thermistor beta=3950
* 61 : 100k Formbot / Vivedino 3950 350C thermistor 4.7k pullup
* 66 : 4.7M High Temperature thermistor from Dyze Design
* 67 : 450C thermistor from SliceEngineering
* 70 : the 100K thermistor found in the bq Hephestos 2
* 75 : 100k Generic Silicon Heat Pad with NTC 100K MGB18-104F39050L32 thermistor
* 99 : 100k thermistor with a 10K pull-up resistor (found on some Wanhao i3 machines)
*
* 1k ohm pullup tables - This is atypical, and requires changing out the 4.7k pullup for 1k.
* (but gives greater accuracy and more stable PID)
* 51 : 100k thermistor - EPCOS (1k pullup)
* 52 : 200k thermistor - ATC Semitec 204GT-2 (1k pullup)
* 55 : 100k thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan & J-Head) (1k pullup)
*
* 1047 : Pt1000 with 4k7 pullup (E3D)
* 1010 : Pt1000 with 1k pullup (non standard)
* 147 : Pt100 with 4k7 pullup
* 110 : Pt100 with 1k pullup (non standard)
*
* 1000 : Custom - Specify parameters in Configuration_adv.h
*
* Use these for Testing or Development purposes. NEVER for production machine.
* 998 : Dummy Table that ALWAYS reads 25°C or the temperature defined below.
* 999 : Dummy Table that ALWAYS reads 100°C or the temperature defined below.
*/
Im wondering what is Jo Prusa using on their heated beds, they use magnets everywhere and their beds easily reach 100C in no time, all out from a single power supply.
EDIT: I guess this explains it...
https://i.imgur.com/ZYVB82N.png
Small update:
No more mechanical endstops, sensorless homing and stealth chop are working.
Printer is much quieter now, in fact, the fans are much louder than steppers :D
And, the most important for me on this stage, the TFT extender is here, and it's working! :D
Current issues:
Optical (IR) sensor, automatic bed leveling. I'm using UBL from Marlin, the results are far from being stable, specially when printing at the edges of the print bed.
Hoping to sort it soon.
Pictures:
Attachment 4062Attachment 4063Attachment 4064
Optical Sensor on an Glass surface its a Bad Idea... Put some sort of
Printfilm surface on original bed (lokbuild, or Chinese Copy of IT)... With Glass would i say capacitive Sensor or bltouch...
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Thats mks24 If i See that right... Nice solution with Extension...
Ive used bigtreetech tft24 as MKS was Not available at the time, and hast the Option to use as raprap graphic Display too (i dont Like the Display fw controlling Marlin fw)
According to the developer of the sensor, it is using the modulated IR light, which is ok with glass surfaces. The problem comes more from a shiny aluminum bed beneath the glass. I just have tried putting a white sheet of paper below the glass and results became much more consistent.
Also considering trying the print surface films too. According to some discussions on forums, light colored ones are preferable over the dark ones.
Will do more tests once I have it. I just need to flatten the original print table, as it is definitely far from being flat.
Actually I prefer BTT TFT24 board over the MKS, better software, English translation and overall quality is much better. It uses the same type TFT, that can be extended the same way. Still expecting the board to arrive within few days from now.Quote:
Originally Posted by razor81
So far I was using S3D for slicing, today I tried Prusa Slicer and was so much surprised with results, much smoother printing flow and speeds.
Looks like a good old Reverse-Bowden Twin-Coupler 16V-TurboInjection TDI Prusa-clone Cube-dition 3D Printer!
(now spell it reverse side with the mouth full of sushi rice!)
Hahah, nice one! :D That's gonna be the project name!Quote:
Originally Posted by bolsoncerrado
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BTT TFT 2.4 is here and I like it a lot!
Time to put everything together.
New video, Prusa Slicer, 35mm/sec:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/18mb...ew?usp=sharing
Looking sweet!
Screen placement:
Attachment 4065Attachment 4066
Holy cow that's purdy!
You know we want to see and hear more of that hack right?
HolyLooking insane!!!
Not much of a hack really,Quote:
Originally Posted by TommyDee
The extender, I bought exactly this one, 40 pin, 0.5mm pitch.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000...6c774c4dzJgTFw
BTT TFT 24 board, the screen needs to be carefully separated from the board. Don't follow my mistakes, I accidentally managed to cut the LCD ribbon. Luckily I had MKS board with the same 40 pin connector LCD, but with different driver IC, so I had to recompile the software.
Also, I decided to re-use the original Cube screen pcb, it holds the screen very well, plus it has a button :D
I did a small cut for LCD ribbon, as you can see on pictures.
Attachment 4069Attachment 4067Attachment 4068Attachment 4070
Now, my next challenges:
Need to design the "cable holder" for this:
Attachment 4071
And new idea, to re-use this small pcb:
Attachment 4072
All thermistor, fan, led, IR sensor cables can be connected to the board.
If anybody has a good pinout for it, please share.
Oh, the re-using the LCD is the key to my missing link, thanks! Indeed perfectly good reuse fodder. I wonder if there are extension cable without the PCB.
That black plate the wire holder is stuck in can have the captured loops like they do with the little fan wires. Just strain relieved but easy to dislodge.
Found a good place for the board:
Needs a small printed frame to hold it in place. Will design it soon.
After that I can start proper wiring and assembly.
Attachment 4073Attachment 4074Attachment 4075
Guys, whoever traced the pins of this small PCB, please share:
Attachment 4076
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Few more updates:
Nice Print Board placement:
Attachment 4077Attachment 4078Attachment 4079
New gantry holder with corrected gaps:
Attachment 4080Attachment 4084
New IR sensor mount and fan shroud:
(Original Prusa Color :D)
Attachment 4081Attachment 4082Attachment 4083
PCB Heater mock-up :D
Attachment 4085Attachment 4086Attachment 4087
Everything is kindly printed for me by a friend of mine on Prusa i3 mk3, PETG.
Time to start the final wiring.
Badassery! :D
Nice... My cube3corexy build ist sadly on hold for the Moment...
Guys, If someone has a working original Cube 3, I need your help.
I'm reversing this PCB board:
Attachment 4098
My Cube is disassembled a long time ago, I unfortunately do not have the exact pinout of J3 15-pin connector. I need your help here.
In order to properly reverse the board, I need to know, where all the fans, leds, sensors and microswitches are connected.
The goal is to find the pinout of J1 and J2. Especially the pins, controlling the keys for led, both 5v and 12v fans, thermistors and so on.
Heater wires will be connected directly to MKS board, without any connectors in-between.
That will result in a much cleaner setup with maximum original parts re-use.
The holder for the board:
Attachment 4099
Overall progress so far:
Attachment 4100
Hey kiza, This is the page I remember seeing this on. I have been racking my brain as to where I had seen someone post something about this
https://openbuilds.com/threads/tear-...o-reprap.5689/
Yep, I remember this one, but information is incomplete there.Quote:
Originally Posted by buddybu
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Getting closer:
Attachment 4101Attachment 4102Attachment 4103
Oh I'm liking it... liking it a lot!
The board is reversed to the state I can use it :D
Here is my pinout:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/12kz...ew?usp=sharing
Logical elements on the board are needed for the Z optical sensor, as far as I understand. Unfortunately my electronic knowledge is not enough to reverse it. And that means I cannot get rid of the mosfet board to control leds, there are no controllable keys on this board for us to use. But all the necessary wires are in place and I already know how to reconnect everything for my needs :D Will try to test very soon.
Wow, Way Cool! Thanks for the pinout!
Why not put the lights on switch that turns off when the tray rests on the bottom. No need to add a bunch of stuff.
Did the test today:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gLy...ew?usp=sharing
Fans work as expected.
LEDs did not work the way I expected it to work. J1 pin 1 to ground - green led and second nozzle led light up. J1 pin 2 to ground - nozzle 1 led lights up. I'm not 100% sure that I have the proper wiring, it would be very helpful if anybody here has pictures of the printhead wiring.
The way I expected it to work was pin1 - nozzle 1 led, pin 2 - nozzle 2 led, pin 3 - yellow led.
Plus, I don't remember the normal behavior of the yellow light, some help is needed here.
Anyway, the behavior of the board allows me to use it for whatever purposes I needed. Will assemble the final version soon.
Yellow light? Basic lighting in the stock cube3? It just turns on when the system is active with a F/W toggle.
I think Kiza means the orange light used during the gap/leveling processQuote:
Originally Posted by TommyDee
Oh... that works with the reflector for gap sensing.
As far as I remember, two white leds are for nozzles, green led for leveling, and I don't remember the yellow (orange) light behavior.
I guess I never noticed a yellow.
Damn sounds like a while for me too since I turned these on :/
You can notice an "orange" light during printing in this video?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_rFuz0hRf7o
Indicator of "head" being "hot"? IDK