There is still that trick of checking that the bowden tube for 2mm minimum ID. I still push a piece of bicycle spoke through my tubes to qualify them. Too much stock doesn't meet this requirement.
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There is still that trick of checking that the bowden tube for 2mm minimum ID. I still push a piece of bicycle spoke through my tubes to qualify them. Too much stock doesn't meet this requirement.
Kiza, can you share the file for the extruder Mk3?? I likes.
btw Kiza how much height in Z did you loose with the whole conversion?
I guess bed can be optimized somehow still?
For those of us not needing ABS printing for example.
There you go, freshly uploaded:Quote:
Originally Posted by ztoddman1
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4807817
Links to similar fittings:
https://www.crazycathobby.it/en/fest...di-4-6-mm.html
https://www.advancedfluidsolutions.c...tor-3415-p.asp
Some pictures here:
Attachment 4199Attachment 4200Attachment 4202Attachment 4201
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It's around 2cm in this version. It still can be optimized, the final version is original Cube 3 print bed with PCB heater glued from the bottom. Holes in PCB will serve as table stabilizers. Something like this:Quote:
Originally Posted by bolsoncerrado
Attachment 4204Attachment 4203
And finally, testing Print Head MK6:
Attachment 4205Attachment 4206
it just dawned on me, how is the extruder being held in other than just the PTFE tubing?
The original extruder (gears and cap) is fitted in the extruder case, the other half of the extruder (with logo) is placed on the outer side of the case. Screws go all the way through the case into the other half. Plastic 3mm tube from the cartridge goes through the half of case into the fitting. Normal PTFE tubing is fitted into the other side. On the bottom of the extruder there is a thick tube from the cartridge inserted for convenience.Quote:
Originally Posted by ztoddman1
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiza
I see it now, shouldn't have jumped to it without studying it. Do you remember what length screws you used?
That's the option I had :DQuote:
Originally Posted by ztoddman1
Attachment 4207
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Update:
That concludes the Print Head MK6 version and satisfies my OCD too :D
Attachment 4213Attachment 4214
Video:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1b4I...ew?usp=sharing
And the design files to follow soon :)
Absolutely impressive! Thank you.
So they're technically "perfectly level" on "factory" design? :D
Yep, that is the goal! :D I did several designs for the "legs", some are for my current setup, some are for the final PCB Heater version. Also depends on the magnets to use.Quote:
Originally Posted by bolsoncerrado
This one is final for now, it includes the stabilizer. Print bed is much more stable now, very slight ghosting on the Y axis. It is acceptable, the prints are very nice :D
Attachment 4218Attachment 4219
The latest (MK6) print head is better balanced, cooling is increased, LED Lights are properly positioned.
This will be the version to publish.
Attachment 4220
My OCD is calm now :D No more updates, except PCB Heater, in near future.
Here are some more photos:
Attachment 4222Attachment 4221Attachment 4224Attachment 4223
Edit (OCD is never calm):
Testing new stabilizers, rubber o-rings on the magnets:
Attachment 4225
Much better stabilization by my first impression :D
ROTFL perfectionism OCD good! :D
i got the screen and LCD extender, but Im so friggin scared to even start! LOL
Did you calc how much Z did you loose with the whole conversion, if anything?
AND OH BTW! Care to try doing a "single" extruder Mk7 for the rest of mortals who don't wanna mess with dual extrusion for now? :D
BTW Im curious about you doing an "as much large and fast as possible" print on this baby to see any possible artifacts/ringing occurrences and see what can we expect from the conversion ;)
YASQ (YetAnotherStupidQuestion ;))
The stepdown converters are for the stepper fans??
I'll start our own forum "Teardown" Cube3 thread but for now, I'm here!
https://i.imgur.com/jfcRiDF.jpg
Wow nice! I see someone is already converting! :DQuote:
Originally Posted by bolsoncerrado
Do not throw away anything, it will help you a lot! And do not unpin any connector yet.
Step-downs are to get 12 and 5V from 24V (stepper fans, leds, cooling fan and turbines)
Also you will need 2 mosfet boards, small ones, no need for powerful ones. We are very limited in space. One is used for print leds, the other is for print cooler turbines.
Regarding a Z-height, I lost around 25mm.
I'm sure I can re-design the head to MK7 single extruder version :D
I'm tempted to try and leave the bed as is for now, im not planning to print ABS with this at the moment... I'm also a bit surprised at the path of the fan flow for the steppers, it's a bit weird. I wonder if they run too "overclocked" or it's just because they're hold by plastic that they need the airflow... but it looks like a too much restrictive path (and noisy, I guess).
Well, heated bed was the must have option for me, I am printing a lot of abs, heated bed helps with other plastics too, you don't need thick brims to hold the print in place. I'm using glass and cheap PVP glue stick, works perfectly!Quote:
Originally Posted by bolsoncerrado
Regarding the extruder steppers, dunno, left it as it was. I run them slightly overpowered, they can get quite hot, that's probably the reason. The printer is pretty noisy, mainly because of 3 always on fans, plus 2 turbines on, while printing.
Pretty noisy and you removed the bed subwoofer! haha!!
If U are going to be converting to Single hotend, Just use a V6 with an Titan and a Pancake at the top... U are Limited with Speed anyway...
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So U will gain in Print quality...the rails are original thk so No Problem there is highend stuff
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Im trying to Push the cube3 corexy Design past 300mm/s, but i have serious Motor Heat issues(the original ones Not being Made for auch beating)....
Hello Kiza
Do you have the files for the fan casing and the final print head design? it looks great and I would like to apply this Mod to my CUBE 3 - thank you for your post
Did i Start this Frenzy?:DQuote:
Originally Posted by Kiza
The latest (MK6) print head is better balanced, cooling is increased, LED Lights are properly positioned.
This will be the version to publish.
Hi KIZA have you published the Print Head designs?
I have purchased the SGEN L V2.0 board and TMC2209s to start the modification, your Marlin Config files would help for a novice like me
update
I started the process of converting my Cube 3, kept the original hot end and has been a learning process but even with my lack of expertise the forum post have guided me thru so far
have managed to short a connection and burn fan1 connector, burned all LEDs except for the 12V (not yet), learning to do mesh leveling, updating and configuring the TFT24 to read two nozzles, etc, etc,
THANK YOU ALL FOR THE INFORMATION PUBLISHED IN THIS FORUM !!!
Will post pictures soon
Happy Holidays to all !!
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my setup is working so far and reading the two heaters individually, however, extruding filament is not working, temperature reading ok (PLA220c, ABS 245c) extruder motors Ok but no filament comes out (E steps at 120, current 650 mA for E0 and E1) - any ideas of where to check my settings ?
UPDATE: now I am Printing... problem appears to be the cartridges and low temperature 3DS filament prints hotter. I was not getting filament flow
Hey there!
Sorry for not posting for a long time, lots of work to do lately.
I wanted to create a nice post with good pictures, etc., and of course never started :D
garufa, I can send you all the stl and config files if you want, you can check my settings.
And I promise I will create a post.
is this possible??? WOW
Kiza wrote: garufa, I can send you all the stl and config files if you want, you can check my settings
- Yes YES and yes, I would like that. I could not figure out how to adapt a Voron's head version to mount the linear rail adapter (forgot to take dimensions after disassembly) see photo, perfect size to match original cube 3 - can you send me a PM with the files?
Attachment 4445Attachment 4446
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the Voron 0 head version is with a Chimera (2 in 2 out) and also can mount the IR sensor at front, this phot is at the stage I am now using the original head
Attachment 4455
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Hello Kiza
I have problems with my bed (stock) - when there is not plastic box installed - just the platform and bed - it moves up to position well and start printing; however when i install the plastic box apparently the additional weight triggers the sensor less homing, makes a lot of noise and stops half way up and starts printing on air. only few times have move up Ok. What setting you have on Current and TMC bump sensitivity for the Z axis? you have a heavier plate than the stock pieces i have
I will appreciate your help
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hello all. I finally completed the Marlin modification, used at the end the latest BTT SKR 2 Rev. B board; I am happy after "sweat and tears" and learn a lot in the process -added at the rear a SD card reader to flash the board without disassembly
thank you all for these posts and instructions.
Attachment 4473 Attachment 4471Attachment 4472
I can't wait to see this in action!! It would be really cool to be able to use off the shelf parts to extend the life of this printer.
Hey there Kiza!
I was just wondering if I could grab the STL files too, I'm looking at installing a similar E3D Chimera hotend too and I would love to see everything you've designed!
Hi there and again sorry for not posting for a long time, been busy a lot.
Here's the link, I'll post the BOM as well.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5824410
Nice work @Kiza! Always good to see you back and with cookies no less ;]
Hey Kiza would you mind posting the limit switch mounts?
There you go:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2900288