Just picked at a Wombot Skeletus - Australian made. Has a build volume of 400x400x500 (!) and is fitted with a MK10 dual extruder setup.
Also includes bed leveling as standard, and is assembled...
Type: Posts; User: Maindog
Just picked at a Wombot Skeletus - Australian made. Has a build volume of 400x400x500 (!) and is fitted with a MK10 dual extruder setup.
Also includes bed leveling as standard, and is assembled...
Mine's been running fine for two years, must've put at least 20 kg of filament through it without any board issues, so luck of the draw i guess.. Worn through a few extruder bits though :)
Nice one, hadn't heard of them.
The larger nozzle will present (slightly) less pressure to extrude.
My usual process when changing filament out is to continuously extrude about 500mm of the new filament in order to completely...
This is just test extruding manually, haven't even gotten to the print stage yet. Haven't tried the larger diameter nozzle, I'll give that a go - though I'll be going from 0.4 to 0.5, so not sure how...
Anyone in Aus tried to print with the Aurarum brand flexible filament? I have no trouble printing ninjaflex (I've modified the extruder to hold some teflon tube between the gear and the hot-end...
When I replaced my hot-end thermistor (soldered to the existing wires in the extruder assembly) I was getting a similar reading of around 50°C or so when cold. Still worked ok; as far as I could tell...
Sorry guys, but I'm not putting any more time in over $80 (I've since bought the items elsewhere anyway). Best of luck to you all though, hope you all get what you're after. Cheers
You missed a couple of us on page 5, must've happened when the thread was moved.
Ryan Willems, Australia. Stick Me ($59) and Nozzle Me ($19) - $78USD. Would also prefer refund as I've purchased these elsewhere.
Just don't exceed the upper voltage limit on the control boards voltage regulator and it'll be fine.
That's awesome :)
I'm guessing the voltage was 12 to begin with, so you're now at 14-15V? Or was it lower than 12?
Get some expanded polystyrene (I'm using some from the original printer packing) and cover the bed while you're pre-heating. That'll get you up to temp quicker.
You'll even get higher temperatures...
Nice one. If you haven't already, look into building some sort of box/enclosure for the printer. ABS has a tendency to contract as it cools, which can cause the model to deform and/or split,...
I've had problems trying to pull filament after installing one of these: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:670689 to print ninjaflex (worked a treat!).
As you mentioned, the filament tends to get a...
Local as in "up the road" local or "shipped within Australia" local? If the latter, where from?
I'm currently looking at replacing the bearings in the Y-axis to reduce the visible vibration in the bed, thanks for your post on this - very useful information indeed!
How'd you go?
Yep, you can get one from Officeworks that's purple but dries clear - elmers is the brand. I've only used that one because the colour makes it easy to see where you've applied it, but I figure any of...
As mentioned above large prints can be challenging when using ABS. I live in Hobart so room temperature is a bit too cool here; I've built a perspex box around my printer to stop drafts etc. The...
30mm/s for outside/inside and 60 for infill. First layer 15. My rig gets a bit wobbly at higher speeds and most of my prints require decent outside finish.
I'd be interested in one.
Could be bent slightly?
It's interesting stuff. I usually print with a brim but don't reckon it's necessary - I'm using the regular ninjaflex and it has no problem sticking to the bed at all. It's incredibly tough too, just...
Looks good. :cool: