Search:

I got the same problem too in a earlier topic, solved coping pins.h from old firmware too

Yes but keep in mind that depends also on the printer surface, so it's better you start your own pid autotune process and change the values.

And also bed values are for my silicone heater too so...

here you have my firmware: RCBugFix7

Keep in mind it's configured with belt extruder, so extruder motor its inverted as a normal direct drive, and I have the induction sensor too, so take a look...

With my setup I had to push the frame back too it's quite normal i think

here my first print test:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6X92PQn3ZLM

btw to set "#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0" you cant fake position with new marlin firmware u must use "M851" Gcode to set the offset of the probe and fine tuning the nozzle position, "G92Z...

I've found the trick:



#define Z_SAFE_HOMING


#if ENABLED(Z_SAFE_HOMING)
#define Z_SAFE_HOMING_X_POINT ((X_MIN_POS + X_MAX_POS) / 2) // X point for Z homing when homing all axis...

yes i'm using 1.1.0-RC6 bugfix too. but what you're sayin its for autobedlevelling command: "G29", my problem it's at "G28" stage when X,Y,Z axes goes to zero, my Z axes its outside the bed :( A...

I simple followed the post here on the forum about E3D-V6 installation and added this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1089085

btw anyone know how to solve my problem? :)

well that belt extruder it's printed @ 80mm/s with e3d hotend

btw tomorrow i'll try to post u better pics

E3D-V6 with belt bowden extruder:

1544

I've a problem: since my induction sensor its in front the nozzle, homing X and Y to 0, the Z probing it's outsuide the plate now.. :( There is a way to fix the Z probing without need to redraw and...

oky thanx for the infos, i'll try later following this guide: http://www.print3dforum.com/showthread.php/488-HOW-TO-Set-up-your-Auto-Levelling-Bed

After some test I can keep a bed at 120 °C without problems with a dedicated 350W 15 AMP ATX PSU. Now next step its to install the inductive sensor :)

I've solved with an addictional 350W atx PSU and "power expander" from reprap.me, works like a charm and I can easy reach 110°C now.

I only need now to reassemble all the stuff in a smart way :)

[update]

well the silicone heater its a way better it's really fast but the problem I've found it's the mosfet gets really hot and after 1 min of heating it shut off, I Think I'll need a SSR DC-DC

I thinks it's 10 Amps, on the specs it tells 1.1 Ohm internal resistence so:

I = V / R
I = 12 /1.1

So its a 120 Watt - 10 amps heater
...

well no, its not on the specs :)
I bought it from E3D

But its a 12v heater not high voltage its low dc current

Hi all, I've just bought a 20x20 Silicone heater trying to solve the heating issue of rapide lite printer.

What's your opinion about the best method to install into the bed?

Finally got the new firmware with arduino ide 1.6.10 and last RCbugFix. The development branch doesnt compile :)

tried doesnt compile :)

I hhink i've found the problem:

Configuration_adv.h



// A single Z stepper driver is usually used to drive 2 stepper motors.
// Uncomment this option to use a separate stepper driver for...

yes sounds to me too :(