Thanks Thanks:  3
Likes Likes:  2
Dislikes Dislikes:  0
Page 2 of 8 FirstFirst 1234 ... LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 71
  1. #11
    Expert 3D Printer
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    241
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by MegaloDon View Post
    Does this work with dual color as well?

    Yes. It searches for the code used by both extruder for the temperature and tries to change them all to the same temp. So it doesn't matter if your printing from the left, right, or both.

    I was thinking about cubeprint and how we know what to expect from it. So that made me think of what other settings could be easily changed so we could see what change they made to the print. Retraction settings was one thing I know would be easy to modify. Retraction was the one thing in the other slicers that was hard to set to work similar to cubeprint.

    If anyone can think of anything else then drop it in here, I'll look to see how feasible it would be.

  2. #12
    3D Printer God(dess)
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Posts
    1,027
    Post Thanks / Like
    M. I think there is an intended pause at the end of a layer. This is the blob-column at the start finish. It is also the reason for Marvin's loop failures. The hot nozzle is resting on the blob! This pause is not present in the 3D Builder ABS slicer (3DS code of course) which does not map over to the Cube 3 S/W.
    The symptom it cures is single wall "lean" reverse problem. The problem it causes is significant just from a local overheating perspective.

  3. #13
    Expert 3D Printer
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    420
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by TommyDee View Post
    M. I think there is an intended pause at the end of a layer. This is the blob-column at the start finish.
    I don't know of a particular solution to this issue, but I am providing my observations and examination of the bfb code so that maybe someone else can come up with a solution.

    The pause is caused by retraction. In my v2 hub, I removed the retraction just from the post portion of the chip changer. Keep in mind that there were no pauses in the bfb code. They may have put the retraction in there just so it would do a pause. This works quite well, but if the post diameter is too small, it will get too hot and melt the post and mangle it. 3DS solves this issue on smaller objects by moving the head away from the object, pausing for one second and then resuming. This causes blobbing and stringing. If the diameter of the post is large enough, 3DS software does not put the retraction in and the result is no blobbing. My chip changer's post is in the middle of these 2 extremes, so my solution works. If it were larger, I wouldn't have needed this modification as it would have printed just fine. If it were smaller, my mod would not have worked. It would have twisted it around and mangled it. I found this out while attempting to print gears on my 1st version of the hub.

    So in the case of small objects, it makes sense that they put the retraction or pause in there to allow the part to cool. So how could we solve this blobbing issue and still allow the part to cool? The other question is, why is it there on large objects when it is not moving across non-printed areas?

  4. #14
    3D Printer God(dess)
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Posts
    1,027
    Post Thanks / Like
    It really needs to do a Z-drop. The mystery is why 3D Builders version of the 3DS ABS slicer doesn't exhibit this problem. It doesn't overheat and blob-up the entire Marvin Loop. They are literally night and day different. Forget PLA... it is stroke for stroke identical.

    The only way to see the 3D Builder file is to remove it from the internal SD and compare it with a Cubify 4.03 ABS print. Then maybe we can get some answers as to what we're looking at. Short of that, it is a needle in a haystack... and I don't know how to look for that kind of thing. I still cannot get a converter working.

  5. #15
    Expert 3D Printer
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    420
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by TommyDee View Post
    It really needs to do a Z-drop.
    I think what you are referring to is what Slic3r software calls z-hop. And it works very well.

  6. #16
    Expert 3D Printer
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    241
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by MegaloDon View Post
    I don't know of a particular solution to this issue, but I am providing my observations and examination of the bfb code so that maybe someone else can come up with a solution.

    The pause is caused by retraction. In my v2 hub, I removed the retraction just from the post portion of the chip changer. Keep in mind that there were no pauses in the bfb code. They may have put the retraction in there just so it would do a pause. This works quite well, but if the post diameter is too small, it will get too hot and melt the post and mangle it. 3DS solves this issue on smaller objects by moving the head away from the object, pausing for one second and then resuming. This causes blobbing and stringing. If the diameter of the post is large enough, 3DS software does not put the retraction in and the result is no blobbing. My chip changer's post is in the middle of these 2 extremes, so my solution works. If it were larger, I wouldn't have needed this modification as it would have printed just fine. If it were smaller, my mod would not have worked. It would have twisted it around and mangled it. I found this out while attempting to print gears on my 1st version of the hub.

    So in the case of small objects, it makes sense that they put the retraction or pause in there to allow the part to cool. So how could we solve this blobbing issue and still allow the part to cool? The other question is, why is it there on large objects when it is not moving across non-printed areas?

    Would increasing the fan speed help? That can be controlled using simplify3d easy enough by layer, but cubeprint only ever uses 50% fan speed from the few BFB's I've inspected.

  7. #17
    3D Printer God(dess)
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Posts
    1,027
    Post Thanks / Like
    Problem is that the hot tip is paused while touching the end of the layer before continuing.
    This causes overhangs, although perfectly reasonable, to curl when printing commences.
    On the Marvin Loop, it is this constant heat just destroys it. You cannot get enough air on it.
    Dwell time is the right term. One day I'll catch it on high speed video for each protocol.

  8. #18
    Expert 3D Printer
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    420
    Post Thanks / Like
    I think increasing the fan speed and raising the z height with a slight pause would help. The problem with that is you would have to use math (if using your mod for Cube Print) to add to the current height and then lower it back down.

  9. #19
    Expert 3D Printer
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Posts
    241
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by MegaloDon View Post
    I think increasing the fan speed and raising the z height with a slight pause would help. The problem with that is you would have to use math (if using your mod for Cube Print) to add to the current height and then lower it back down.
    Something easy, like fan speed, I'll play around with. But anything complicated that can be easily done in s3d I'm not going to spend time on.

  10. #20
    3D Printer God(dess)
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Posts
    1,027
    Post Thanks / Like
    Just need to compare the ABS file between 3D Builder and Cubify and see what the difference is.
    It really is that simple to understand the different characteristic. Guessing at it won't do anything.

    We keep assuming and talking over a very simple fact...

    3DS Marvin vs. 3DB Marvin

    3ds_marvin.PNG3db_marvin.PNG

    The only way I know to extract the 3DB file is to go into the cube.

    Don't one of you EE/SW Gurus have a way to trap that file from the USB pipeline while 3DB is sending the file?

    Both encoding processes are by 3DS. The driver is 3DS. The slicer is 3DS.

    On a conspiracy level, I am going to suggest they actually crippled the Cube 3 to favor their Cube/Pro.
    And they left the key right here on the porch for us to find.
    That is why I asked Mythandar to look into it a little more, Don.
    I already know your assumptions. I'm suggesting you are wrong.
    Last edited by TommyDee; 06-25-2017 at 04:38 PM.

 

 

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •