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  1. #21
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dwhttnbrg View Post
    I am also having issues with the filament pushing the PTFE tubing out of the fitting after 30 min or so of printing.
    That is weird that it pushes it "AFTER" 30min of printing....perhaps your filament breaks and one of the sections is the one that pushes it upwards?

    If only we could "relax" the allowance for bigger filament at gears level

  2. #22
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    I have 3mm OD tubing. I just swapped from a piece of PTFE to some thicker walled stuff. Here is what I currently have going. IMG_2475.jpgIMG_2477.jpg

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    no, you can watch it pushing it the whole time. it just finally give way after about 30 min.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Sometimes I love these little printers, and other times I want to go back to my DIY I3.
    Most of the time, I am glad I also have my Solidoodle 3 to fall back on when the cubes are giving me fits.

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    I am now noticing that the clear stuff is what I am having trouble with. I replaced it with the same dimension tubing I had left from my RepRap, that is white and a bit thicker. It doesn't seem to be pushing the fitting quite so hard. Maybe the clear stuff is so thin walled the fitting cant hold it. If that's the case, I can always use it for lead in for the filament.

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    What tubing is recommended for Push Connectors?
    Last edited by dwhttnbrg; 06-07-2017 at 05:11 PM.

  3. #23
    3D Printer God(dess)
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    OH! I see what is wrong...

    The fitting should be installed in the clamp, not the adapter.
    You want the spool-holder that has the open area where the fitting goes.

    Yes, 3mm tubing is problematic.

    I think one person found the fittings that grip 3mm well. Mine just peel out.

    The clear stuff is probably FEP Teflon. It is rated for push-to-connect but peels right out of 3mm fittings leaving a thin shaving of Teflon.
    That material seems to have a lot of stiction with PLA... meaning that just sliding past each other, they then to have too much friction.

    Here is the version you want for a fitting threaded into the clamp.
    The attached file is the black accessory adapter.

    thisway.PNG
    Attached Files Attached Files
    Last edited by TommyDee; 06-07-2017 at 07:40 PM.

  4. #24
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    Corrected the holder, seems to be a little better now. I have printed for 6 hours without any issues.

  5. #25
    3D Printer God(dess)
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    Since I am still waiting for my laser thermometer to start the heated bed project, I am working on one more skunk works accessory.

    In order to complete this as a fully printable program, we need to finish the hot-end. This requires printed tools.

    This is a ways out, but once this project is complete, it will go on Thingiverse with all the KISS options for the Qube.

    So if there is anything that is still lacking for this solution, it is good to speak up.
    And I am all for anyone that comes up with a useful accessory to post it.
    I need to put a stake in this one sometime soon.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    final.PNG

    Can you identify the upgrade?


    FORWORD:
    The philosophy behind all these modifications is to take a stock 3DS cartridge, and with minimal shopping, you can rebuild your Cube 3 filament feeder system to demonstrate much improved reliability over the stock cartridges. For a DIY effort, that is saying a lot!

    Minimal shopping takes into account "conventional" components required to completely replace the feeder tube from the stock 3DS cartridges. Often the manufacturing process that adds the caterpillar covering to the Teflon tube creates the very problem many 3DS cartridges exhibit with stripping filament, poor feeding, and breaking filament due to insufficient clearance inside the tube.

    REQUIREMENTS:
    You need to know about Push-to-Connect fittings, or "fittings" as commonly referred to here.
    Most of these are 4mm tube connectors, but the thread that installs them is commonly either an M5 or an M6 thread.
    Therefore, the provided solution set includes clamps for both M5 and M6 threaded fittings. You only need to print one appropriate for the fittings on hand, and follow the best practice routine for ensuring smooth filament feeding.

    Screws are necessary only if you plan to mount the spool holder. So if you have another means to manage a spool of filament, no worries... no screws needed.

    If you do wish to install the optional stock spool holder, the screw I recommend is an M5 socket cap screw somewhere between 8-12mm long. These are very common at hardware stores and bicycle shops. Flathead M5 screws at 12-16mm long will also work.
    If for some reason, that is just not achievable, there is also room for M3 hardware if you place a nut inside the pocket at the end of the M5 threads. Now you can use a M3 screw (not sure the length) and a washer to achieve the same means. And if that is not enough, there are also small holes that will accommodate a #2 or an M2 screw. the holes in the front of the clamp are intended for M4 screws, but again, a lot of options will fit in those holes as well.

    NOTICE:
    This will be the limit for support on the DIY feeder system. Do note that the clamp does have additional holes for mounting accessories. Making your own spool holder, for instance, is encouraged. Several skunk-works projects will ultimately pop up but they are experimental at best.

    FEEDER TUBE NOTES:
    The 4mm tubing itself is another quagmire. If you are familiar with the fittings, you have also become familiar with the tubing. The tubing can be as much of a problem as the stock cartridges are. I have tried all the material types and several quality levels. Turns out the Chinese PTFE tubing from some suppliers is reliable. If you have a manufacturer that provides your tubing for your other printers, and it works reliably, please post up what you find that works and where to get it.

    Also know that turning a tube in the fitting will ruin the tube, and possibly the fitting when you try to separate them. These compromised tubes require maintenance! If the end if rasped from the fitting's grippers, it needs to be trimmed. This is important for the hygiene of your system. Scraped or sluffed Teflon particles in the hot end can only be bad. Cut the tube to about 20 inches or 1/2 meter. You can trim the tube many time until it gets down to about 17 inches or 0.42 meters.

    HOTEND:
    The hot end is still a work in progress but I think with a few printed tools, this too can be accomplished with ease.

    CLOSING:
    I am happy that I embarked on this effort not only to understand the intricacies of this type of system, but to understand just how minimalist one can become before the system is again unreliable. There are still some open questions but for the most part, between the code hack and an upgraded feeding systems, we can certainly print with less concern and higher reliability than crossing your fingers that the latest cartridge you purchased will actually print something useful before the counter goes to zero.
    Without this ability to make cheap prints, even the KISS developers would have no choice but to limit their efforts based on cost tolerance for new cartridges. This is one area 3DS completely missed the mark. Cost of ownership and system reliability go hand in hand.
    3DS failed, and continues to fail delivering reliable cartridges. This leaves the question open: What is the real reason the Qube was discontinued by 3D Systems?
    Last edited by TommyDee; 06-09-2017 at 05:40 PM.

  6. #26
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    ...speaking of which, latest of your released versions had some sort of "pins" that Im still trying to figure out where do they go. Either that or I removed something that looked like a support and it wasnt. LOL

  7. #27
    3D Printer God(dess)
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    PIX! pix pix... (10)

    You mean those little posts to hold the bridge to hold the opening for the sword through dude's face?
    Those are just supports
    Last edited by TommyDee; 06-09-2017 at 07:05 AM.

  8. #28
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    On the clamp part, onboth sides, some openings you....added?

  9. #29
    3D Printer God(dess)
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    They are supports too.

    Those are holes for the grenade pins.
    That is the locking feature.

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    That one is not actually released, Bo. I still need to print the latest clamp but this is the assembly with the added despooler arm.

    skunkworks.PNG

    NOTE: I am finding that a 1kg spool will tilt this assembly too much and cause undue strain on the driver.
    A 1/4kg (full stock spool) seems to be working well.

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    It's the little things that matter

    littlethings.PNG
    Last edited by TommyDee; 06-10-2017 at 04:35 PM.

  10. #30
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    [QUOTE=TommyDee; 41631] Sólo por esta vez [/ QUOTE]

    Modified the piece and it is perfect for my reels smartfill of 300 grams. !! Thanks Tommy !!

    WhatsApp Image 2017-06-11 at 14.58.47.jpg

 

 

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