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  1. #11
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    Many thanks Tommy !!! I will modify for my reels FLEX 350g of smartfill !!

  2. #12
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    Have mine printed and working, but it seems to be pushing really hard against the fitting. Anyone else notice this. Worried about it breaking with just the 2 screws in the front.

  3. #13
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    Be sure the clamps are tight (try to pull the DIY CLAMP part from the printer, it should NOT move!) If one of the clamps is not perfectly snapped, the slight displacement of the filament mouth will make clicking sounds or push against the walls instead....

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by bolsoncerrado View Post
    If one of the clamps is not perfectly snapped, the slight displacement of the filament mouth will make clicking sounds or push against the walls instead....
    Is that where your clicking sound was coming from?

  5. #15
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    The one in the video? No, that one was clearly coming from the bed, probably bc i havent leveled it for ages hehe

  6. #16
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    Click...
    click.PNG


    Check...
    check.PNG

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by dwhttnbrg View Post
    Have mine printed and working, but it seems to be pushing really hard against the fitting. Anyone else notice this. Worried about it breaking with just the 2 screws in the front.
    Please clarify what you mean by pushing against the fitting. Pictures help too
    But I agree, there is a lot of pressure associated with the filament feeding.

    I'm not understanding what the "2 screws" have to do with the fitting.

    To be clear, there are 2 clamps so people can use an M5 or M6 thread on the fitting.
    Each is marked on the inside to show the printed thread in the part.

    If you opt for the hex-nut solution with the printed adapter, the two M5 threads on the top of the clamp are more than enough to hold the tubing in place.
    The little screw holes, not so much.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    You might look here too...Check for resistance in the hole (where the drill bit is) with filament that has gone through the cog.
    If you feel restriction, the hole needs to be enlarged. The goal is 2.2mm diameter.


    The intent is to minimize the hole (from 2-2.2mm diameter) to help drive the filament into the next element.
    The next element should be a piece of 4mm tubing with a lead-in chamfer. In that case, you can drill that hole out to nearly 3mm.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    attention.PNG

    It is worth spending some time in this section to know that the filament will always feed without getting stuck.


    And on that thought, there is a word of warning!
    Do not allow the filament to drive into the grippers inside the fitting!
    The filament will deform the gripper metal fingers and later the tube will not pull out or be more difficult to remove.
    Connect the 4mm tube going to the hot-end before feeding the filament.

    (Alternatively, feed the filament while holding the fitting cap. Not always reliable and you will poke your finger more than once.)

    - - - - - - - - - -

    If you are using a fitting with an M6 thread, this is the recommenced lead-in solution, but the hole has to be kept at or under 2.2mm diameter.
    This is a piece of stock tubing that happens to fit through the fitting. The 4mm tube keeps it in place.


    m6_solution.PNG

    A lot of care is taken in the design in providing elements for difficult situations or marginal prints.
    Whatever you run across, just post the details and preferably a picture to know exactly what and where you are referring to.
    I can pretty much address anything because I've already done it twice.
    I even got bit by the clearance issue x2 last night

    Make sure the tractored filament runs free in the tube from one end to the other without hang-ups! This is true all the way into the hot-end.

    I have well over 80 printing hours on this design and I am here to say it is achievable.

  7. #17
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    I am using little screws. What size are the screws for the big holes?

  8. #18
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    Feeder tube...
    CHECK FOR INTERFERENCE DUE TO SMALL TUBE ID AT THE BARREL NUT!

    Should always feed; no hang-ups once the filament is placed at the driver.

    feeder.PNG

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by dwhttnbrg View Post
    I am using little screws. What size are the screws for the big holes?
    M5 x 8 preferred up to M5 x 12 socket cap screws (per images)

    But if you have 3mm hardware, you can drop a nut onto the pocket (bottom of M5 thread) and use a long 3mm screw and washer in the adapter.
    This will be more than strong enough.

    But how does this relate to the fitting? Just curious as to what you actually assembling.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    As for the chips, they should look like this when installed.
    They are just sub-surface of the face of the holder, top and bottom.

    chips.PNG

    Remove all the supports (they break away with pliers).
    Activate the clamp by separating the tabs.
    This pulls apart any bonded filament between the two halves.

    Clean any remaining adhesive from the chip.
    Place the edge with the two aligned bars against the flat edge (orient as shown).
    Separate the tabs again and -lightly- push the chip into the holder once the it clears the edge.
    Check that the entire chip is slightly sub-surface.
    The gap at the tabs should be close to what is shown if the chip is properly seated.

    If, when installing the chip holder in the hub it gets too tight, stop pushing and confirm the holder will fit without the chip.
    the first time might be quite snug, but subsequent installations will loosen up a bit.
    The holder nor the chips should ever be able to just fall out.
    I've been throwing these things around and haven't had to dig out a flashlight yet.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    What am I forgetting?

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Ah, and I did test this... and it works with a full stock spool.
    Those are #2 self tapping screws 1/2" long.

    didtest.PNG
    Last edited by TommyDee; 06-06-2017 at 03:15 AM.

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  10. #19
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    I am also having issues with the filament pushing the PTFE tubing out of the fitting after 30 min or so of printing.
    Last edited by dwhttnbrg; 06-07-2017 at 03:59 PM.

  11. #20
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    There is so much out there it is hard to know what is quality and what is more junk.

    It is funny how the 3D Printer crowd determined that PTFE and push-to-connect fittings can be used together reliably.
    In fact, PTFE is not qualified for Push-To-Connect fittings. It just happens to work for a lot of people.

    You are using 4mm tubing, right? What fitting? Picture here will still help a lot!

    - - - - - - - - - -

    This solution is giving me a hard time keeping the tube ID open to 2mm.

    Same problem as stock. Not sure if we can make this reliable.
    Attached Images Attached Images

 

 

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