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  1. #91
    3D Printer Noob
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    Jan 2018
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    Ok, I'm printing again now. Neon green was refed after cleaning up the nozzle and is feeding fine with stock feed. Printing new DIY extruder hub. All of the parts have arrived from Amazon including a Nano Arduino. For those of you that know what that's for.

    As far as the fittings go, I need to verify later that the 2mm fits on the threaded side, but it looks like the 4mm M5 fittings are holding on to the 4mm OD tubing nicely.

    I haven't upgraded FW yet (shipped with 1.11b) and noticed that it failed printing with only 1 print head in the hot end. It also seemed like it the feedback was switched because it failed with a T12 and said the temperature was 20C, but I took the nozzle out of the hot end and it was hot. It looks like it wants both print heads in the hot end. I'll double check after FW upgrade, but someone may have gotten these switched at least in 1.11b FW and I'm not sure if they use more than 1 thermistor and if the temperature control is for both sides or individual.

    Tim

  2. #92
    3D Printer God(dess)
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    The Nano is for resetting the cartridge rather that the modified F/W.
    It can reset cartridges to whatever level you want... with an optional upgrade to write anything you want to the cartridge.

    You will get a temperature error any time you have 2 chips installed but only one nozzle.
    There are two heaters and two thermistors.

    Half of the stock cartridges have damaged Bowden tubes right out of the factory. I use to think they were all recoverable but it turns out that the nylon "skeleton" over-mold on the Teflon tubing deforms the Teflon tubing limiting the inside diameter. As you drive the filament back and forth constantly through the driver with certain prints, it flattens the filament exceeding the 1.75mm width sufficiently to bind the filament in the tube. It has nothing to do with clogging at the nozzle. This also works the drive motor very hard and it gets quite warm. Diamond fill seems to be very bad about this. The upgraded Bowden systems we've all been developing takes this into account and corrects for it. With the clear 2mm ID throughout the tube without restrictions seems to solve this issue.
    I suspect that the barrel nuts do this also.

    Also note that a lot of stock cartridge nozzles do not bottom out sufficiently on the heater blocks. This too could cause temperature "glitches" triggering alarms.
    But we do know that a cold environment also causes temperature errors. I keep the printer room at 20*C (70*F) minimum.
    Last edited by TommyDee; 01-26-2018 at 03:25 AM.

  3. #93
    3D Printer Noob
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    Quote Originally Posted by TommyDee View Post
    The Nano is for resetting the cartridge rather that the modified F/W.
    It can reset cartridges to whatever level you want... with an optional upgrade to write anything you want to the cartridge.
    Exactly

    Quote Originally Posted by TommyDee View Post
    You will get a temperature error any time you have 2 chips installed but only one nozzle.
    There are two heaters and two thermistors.
    Cool, did not know that. But I only had 1 chip installed, I'll update FW and see if it can print with 1 cartridge and 1 print head installed or if it was a 1.11b issue. The T12 error was scary.

    Quote Originally Posted by TommyDee View Post
    Half of the stock cartridges have damaged Bowden tubes right out of the factory. I use to think they were all recoverable but it turns out that the nylon "skeleton" over-mold on the Teflon tubing deforms the Teflon tubing limiting the inside diameter. As you drive the filament back and forth constantly through the driver with certain prints, it flattens the filament exceeding the 1.75mm width sufficiently to bind the filament in the tube. It has nothing to do with clogging at the nozzle. This also works the drive motor very hard and it gets quite warm. Diamond fill seems to be very bad about this. The upgraded Bowden systems we've all been developing takes this into account and corrects for it. With the clear 2mm ID throughout the tube without restrictions seems to solve this issue.
    I suspect that the barrel nuts do this also.
    The beginning of the stock green PLA for some reason was very brittle. After simply clearing (and I may have over cleaned as you imply) I am now having no issues and before it broke in several places in the skeleton. So as I'm sure there is a design flaw in the feeder, I also know that the first few feet of stock neon green were more brittle. As I got a few feet into the roll even bending it in my fingers did not cause it to snap. Also it punctured a hole in the side of the skeleton (in other words was broke before it got to that bend and then poked a hole). Anyway, same roll, before mods and now printing fine, but I'll be doing the mods soon enough.

    Quote Originally Posted by TommyDee View Post
    Also note that a lot of stock cartridge nozzles do not bottom out sufficiently on the heater blocks. This too could cause temperature "glitches" triggering alarms.
    But we do know that a cold environment also causes temperature errors. I keep the printer room at 20*C (70*F) minimum.
    Yes, I know what you mean... I have a propane heater where I have the printer and I live in sunny California

  4. #94
    Expert 3D Printer
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    Jan 2017
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    Quote Originally Posted by tprothma View Post
    I have a propane heater where I have the printer and I live in sunny California
    It's important to note that propane heaters give off moisture while they heat. Electric heaters on the other hand give off a dry heat and are perfect for 3D printers. The dryer the better. I had propane heat and had a lot of problems with moisture in my filament. Now I have electric heat and have no problems. In the summer it's a different story. It gets humid here in the summer and air conditioning doesn't dry the air enough. I have a lot of moisture problems with filament in the summer.

  5. #95
    3D Printer Noob
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    Jan 2018
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    Thanks for the info MegaloDon. Today it's raining in sunny California so RH is very high. So far my prints look good though.
    Thanks again.
    Tim

 

 

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