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  1. #71
    3D Printer God(dess)
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    Steve, I am SOOO happy you asked.

    If everything is in place; one of the hubs, a modified or printed hot-end, and fittings on both ends:

    Changing filament in the middle of a print:
    * Press "Pause" on the printer's screen on in the Cubify app.
    * Pull the Teflon tube from the hot-end fitting. The warm filament should pop right out of the hot-end without issue. Don't let if fall into the fan.
    * Pull the hub from the printer. The printer doesn't care if you disconnect the chip.
    * Remove the current filament and reload with the new filament.
    * Run the new filament to the end of the Bowden tube. The tube should still be connected to the hub side and not the hot-end side. There are good reasons for this, least of which is to prevent damaging the little barbs in the fitting.
    * Plug the tube back into the hot-end fitting.
    * Continue spooling filament into the hot-end from the hub's driver. This makes sure there is no empty segment in the system.
    * Replace the hub.
    * Press "Resume" on the printer's screen. If you have no barrel nut in the hot-end, this should purge out the remaining old color during the Hershey operation. If I do this from a cold printer, there seems to be a little less purging for new prints compared to resumed prints. A cold printer needs about 10 inches of printing to change colors completely. A quick pause and resume of the subsequent print should also purge the old color completely.

    Barrel nuts in the hot-end will cause filament to stretch and string when you pull the tube in this manner. This is not a problem! Just a little more work to get it fully purged. In every instance, you want to pull that tube with the hot-end at full temperature (just paused). The purge function does not seem to heat the filament enough to make this foolproof. Is a print function to make sure the heat is sufficient.

    If the printer is cold, just print the test print for a left side swap and any other print to do a right side swap. Then follow the instructions from above.

    A couple of related notes:
    * If you accomplished a hot-end without the barrel nut, this works best when you pull the filament from the hot-end. This minimizes stringing or extruding while pulling the tube.
    * If the tube is too damaged to pull from the hot-end, you can also pull the hub and feed filament while extracting the hub end of the tube from the fitting. Then you can clip the filament and wrangle the hot-end side of the tube.
    * DO NOT LEAVE A CHIP IN AN UNUSED SIDE OF THE PRINTER WHERE THE HOT-END IS NOT INSTALLED! This causes temperature errors every time.
    * When you do the swap, you have to use the same chip to "Resume".

    What did I miss?

  2. #72
    3D Printer Noob
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    Boy - that seems a bit complicated. It's got be better than all the filament breaks I get now.

    I modified the firmware - still have to print the parts and install. Think I will use the modified original nozzle.

    Speaking of nozzles - has anyone run any metallic filament through the nozzle. Do you think it will destroy it? Not sure what its made of?

  3. #73
    Expert 3D Printer
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    Quote Originally Posted by nykr95 View Post
    Speaking of nozzles - has anyone run any metallic filament through the nozzle. Do you think it will destroy it? Not sure what its made of?
    The nozzle is made of aluminum and will wear over time with metalic or glow in the dark filament. I'm not sure what is in the glow in the dark filament, but I read that it will wear your nozzles as bad as metalic. I've also had problems with the glow in the dark having a bumpy texture and jamming up in the bowden tube.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Also, if you are not doing a hot swap in the middle of a print, but just want to load filament without removing the hub, I made print files to load the filament for you here:
    http://www.print3dforum.com/showthre...ll=1#post41754

  4. #74
    3D Printer God(dess)
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    Quote Originally Posted by nykr95 View Post
    Boy - that seems a bit complicated. It's got be better than all the filament breaks I get now.

    I modified the firmware - still have to print the parts and install. Think I will use the modified original nozzle.

    Speaking of nozzles - has anyone run any metallic filament through the nozzle. Do you think it will destroy it? Not sure what its made of?
    I put a lot of details in with the process. Once you do it, it begins to make sense.

    Heat the filament
    Pull the tube
    Reload new filament
    Print

    I still spool filament into the tube using a little hand driver. However, a power screwdriver would be a nice upgrade.

    If you want a fun project, load the Bowden tube up with short lengths of different color filament and print away.
    This system really is very forgiving, unlike stock cartridges, which are hit and miss with an average of only 50% having any hope of being made functional.


    And yes, metallic, ceramic, and carbon fiber particles can erode the nozzle tips.
    However, they are very well designed and should take quite a bit of punishment.

  5. #75
    3D Printer Noob
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    No - I do appreciate the detail - thanks. Have you seen anyone try to replace the actual metal portion of the nozzle with anything?
    I would like to do some metallic prints - but not if I can't replace those nozzles.

    I will let you know how the extruder replacement goes.

  6. #76
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    The nozzles themselves, the metalic parts, are the only part we still need from the original carts :/

    Someone mentioned a mount to replace the whole exrtuder head with an e3Dv6 but havent seen it activelly working so far :?

 

 

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