Cube 3 Extruder HUB - KISS Method (DiY version by TommyDee)

[bolsoncerrado]

Enjoy this state of the art Extruder HUB I've been (beta)testing lately from TommyDee!

FULLY PRINTABLE!
Jut use the same screws that come with the original cart and either a M5 or M6 pneumatic fitting screw (both versions included) for the OD4ID2 PFTE tube you should have by now... Also featuring a smart CHIP holder (up to two hold in place, 1 active, 1 spare) you don't even need to glue (magic pressure!):




https://www.dropbox.com/sh/pwcfss73n...OmWIadpHMPNopa

Any questions, feel free to post them!



PS. BONUS TRACK! A neat box to store your chips!! Courtesy of TommyDee






If this helps... as they come off the printer:

[TommyDee]

July'19 Update - I am pleased to announce the release of the STL files for this make on Thingiverse.

June'17 Update

I have updated the -official- release.
This includes a left and right side despooler.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0By-...ew?usp=sharing

!No worries, nothing changed! Just added good stuff.
This hub requires at a minimum: the Hub, 1 of the Clamps; M5 or M6, and the Chip Holders.
This will let you use a remote spool. You must have experience with providing a tube option to the hub.
If you wish to adapt the stock 3DS spool, the included despooler option requires hardware;
2-each M5 x 8(-12) cap screws are recommended -or- any other clever alternative of which there are plenty.

I did remove the lame spool holders and replaced it with one that has a despooling feature.
I included a left and right side despooler arm so that they can both point to one side of the printer.
I also removed all the lame alternatives discussed in 5 pages of minutia regarding tube alternatives.
You can still use the accessory adapter STL models strewn about the post as-you-will.
I've had mixed results from the alternatives. Still open to skunk works discussions.

Back to the show -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------



I could never have been that concise!

I do have an album's worth of images.
Here's the icon version

diy_icon.PNG

File stats:
Hub: 4:09 37 grams
Clamp: 3:23 26 grams
Chip holders: 0:44 4 grams
options:
Spool holder: 0:46 7G

[IAmOrion]

Any chance of STLs so I can print on a different printer?

[TommyDee]

I am trying to control what is out there.
This removed 90% of the questions that arise from setup problems.

I do want to challenge the coders to find a way to make .cube3 files useful.
Can we extract a sliced .bfb from the .cube3?

[Mythandar]

I do want to challenge the coders to find a way to make .cube3 files useful.
Can we extract a sliced .bfb from the .cube3?

My program I posted yesterday does this. If you just go as far as step 3 (convert) then you'll have the extracted .bfb in your save directory. It doesn't change the original .bfb, only creates a new one with -modified after the file name when you change the temp.

[TommyDee]

I was kind of thinking that was the case. Thanks M.

Anyone if free to post files and results.

If this helps... as they come off the printer:

hub (2).PNGclamp (2).PNGchips.PNGdespooler.PNG

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Interesting thought.

Turns out the nut for a true 3mm tubing is an imperial #5.
This should thread onto a 3mm tubing without restricting the ID significantly.
This nut we can capture in the accessory mount similar to the #8.
This would solve the top-entry fixed systems as well as the completely stock tubing if it is still serviceable.
Of course, you can even keep the stock barrel nut for the stock 2.8mm tubing.
This means the splice method is also valid for joining 2 of the stock 2.8mm tubes.

The only thing you give up with 3mm tubing is the simple release mechanism of the quick release.
3mm push to connect fittings don't work well with the pressures of the filament feeder.

One can always join two 4mm tubes with 2 fittings on both ends of a printed tube.
That way, the disconnect can be made in the middle of the line.
In theory, you could still do a hot-swap with this method.
It all depends on restrictions inside the hot-end.

One thing we cannot loose sight of:
The entire intent of the push-to-connect fitting solution is to do quick and simple filament changes.
Sticking with 3mm tubing or not having a hot-end solution for quick disconnect means the filament change becomes more complex.
If this is acceptable, This hub solution only requires a pair of screws to attach the adapter.
I recommend M5 x 8 Socket Cap screws.
But this doesn't mean you cannot use slightly longer M5 screws, self tapping screw of an appropriate size; flat head screws; wood screws; or what have you. As long as you make a solid connection without shredding the clamp, you are golden!
In addition, I did provide 2 each M4 through holes on the face of the clamp in case that is the only way you can mound an adapter of any flavor.



stock_upgrade.PNG

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Do I remember something like this being posted as a wish list item?

wishlist.PNG

That's a 1/2Kg of filament. They are 1Kg spools. Clamp is holding! More tests to come.

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This was fun

[Programeitor3d]

I already printed it and it is working very well! Is it possible to lengthen the supports of the Spool Holder for use with another type of wider filament spool?

WhatsApp Image 2017-06-03 at 13.31.53.jpg

[TommyDee]

Thanks for sharing P3.

The idea of the two M5 screw holes is to mount your flavor of spool holder.
The available template is a stub where you can add material if you have access to something where you can manipulate .STL file.
I do know you can add simple geometry in MeshMixer. Quite clunky, but doable.

I am working on a locking version of the clamp that should manage 1kg spools reliably.

[Programeitor3d]

Thank you very much!
I have a reel of 350grams, but they are wider and the piece SpoolHolder_lp1200.cube is somewhat short, can you attach the .stl version for me to lengthen it and adjust for my filament spools?

[TommyDee]

Just this once