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  1. #1
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    Red face Was this too simple to get me going? :)

    Was this too simple to get me going? Bodge it and scarper... get's me printing. Now just gotta suss z-gap. Not getting the print quality I expected yet

    IMG_1142.jpgIMG_1141.jpg

  2. #2
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    Beautiful Franken-Qube! This deserves an award!

    Orion, what is your end goal for managing the spool?
    And what is the most appealing method for attaching the 4mm tube to the clamp side?

    Options include a 4mm fitting in the flavor of M5 and M6, or there is the new "#8-32 hex-nut option" to remove the fitting all-together.
    And then there is the "stock tube life extender adapter".
    I'd like to know if the 8-32 solution also works with an M4 hex-nut, which is a lot smaller.

    Also considering your hot-end solution, which way are you leaning on that?

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  4. #3
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by IAmOrion View Post
    Was this too simple to get me going?

    IMG_1142.jpg

    The KISS method was simpler imho...

  5. #4
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    To be honest, this really was a bodge-it-and-scarper method just to get it printing again. I intend to print "Cube 3 Extruder HUB - KISS Method (DiY version by TommyDee)" now it's up and running.

    I originally had a threaded pneumatic connection on the hot end, but had a few issues. I decided to get some longer OD 3 ID 2 PTFE, and go from the nozzle straight up and out (those ptfe screw collar things are an arse!!).

    So I ended up with the OD 3 ID 2 PTFE coming out of the cartridge into the bottom of a 4mm > 3mm reducer. Then OD 4 ID 3 from top of the reducer to the top of another 4 > 3 reducer and then the bottom of that reducer connects the the OD 3 ID 2 coming straight off the nozzle. It's dead basic but works and holds well.

    The white part in the cartridge pic literally took 20 seconds to draw and I used hot glue to hold it in place. The hole was big enough for the bottom half of the reducer - and holds it mainly just to stop it bowing out and putting pressure / kinking / creasing the PTFE tube directly at the top of the extruder part. It's not the neatest solution but works for now.

    For spool holders, atm I just printed this super simple spool holder >> https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2271958 but again, I really like the spool holder design from the forum thread above.

    At least it's 100 times easier (IMO) to get printing since I'm not spending ages following the advanced nozzle jam guide thing they send out and messing with it clogged to hell because of the shitty design that has the filament trapped far too tight and causing it to snap.

    At least now I can hit print after a few days and know it will still print (and has done)
    Last edited by IAmOrion; 06-04-2017 at 10:09 PM.

  6. #5
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    I don't know how you are getting away with the 3mm quick connects, but whatever works.
    On mine, the tube just peeled out of the grippers leaving scraped teflon behind.


    Do you have access to #8-32 or a M4 hex nut?
    I am trying to steer you in the right direction for adapting the 4mm tube.


    You are so right about the cartridges. I once defended them thinking they were all recoverable and that their filament was a bigger issue.
    Well, I've been printing with that "old" filament and making great hub prints. The problem with their process is the over-mold of the nylon.
    Too much pressure on the Teflon is deforming it on many of the early cartridges, and maybe even later units.
    And I've had good luck with a few "proven" stock tube sets. This makes careful inspection of new carts important.
    So yes, reliability has been improved significantly.

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  8. #6
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    I did read on one of the threads here that the 3mm pneumatic connectors didn't grip - but for whatever reason, mine are holding perfectly. I tested as soon as they arrived - connected it then tried to pull it off (no dirty pun implied) and it wouldn't give so mine are bloody strong.

    Yes I have M4 hex nuts.

    Yeah I know what you're saying - I've sworn about this thing since I bought it, and even tried to sell it... but no one wanted to buy it lol It was only upon coming across this forum that I decided I'd keep it and try and hack it. Even in the bodge-it-and-scarper state mine is in it is already 100 times better! I can print one day, leave it a day or what ever, print something else.... and it just prints!! No messing with clogged bloody nozzles or jammed and broken filament. EUREKA!! I'm glad I didn't buy it new at the original 1000 price tag. I got this new and still boxed/sealed for 200 delivered. So cheaper than my Wanhao i3 or my CTC Dual .... but my god it's been an unpleasant experience for sure haha

    I do how ever have a slight Z gap issue... I'm trying to avoid the manual adjustment method so running a few prints as tests by running the auto-gap then selecting ADJUST and manually setting it (I obviously take note each time the level I'm using as I've noticed the auto gap isn't very consistent. One time it'll gap it at -3.3, then 30 seconds later -3.08)

  9. #7
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    Auto-gap is merely a guide based on the maintenance setting.
    It is rarely right.
    And the machine does exhibit a 20 micron repeatability error just in the hardware.

    I'll make you an adapter with the hex for an M4 nut when you get to that stage.
    Do you also have the M5 cap screws?

  10. #8
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    Do you mean this:

    s-l500.png

    Or do you just mean an M5 bolt? I have both either way - although if you mean bolt, what length?

  11. #9
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    That fitting will thread right into the M5 clamp part.

    There is a small cavity below the fitting inside the clamp.
    Insert a short piece of 4mm Teflon tube to fill the void.
    You can add a chamfer to the tube to help guide the filament.
    Also make sure the hole is clear in the print for the filament.

    guide.PNG

    This too helps. Flip it around and you can chamfer the inlet side too.

    element.PNG

    FWIW: The accessory mounts are held on with M5 bolts up to 12mm long. I recommend 8mm long.
    The small holes will do an M2 or #2 self tapping but they are not for a heavy load.
    This is an easy way to adapt just anything you want to add.

 

 

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