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  1. #71
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    Relative feed-speed modifier code breaker thingy... basically slow all the S settings in the move setup g-code to a percentage between 27.8 and 35. Slower of course.

    In the .bfb slicers, you just change the parameters. Not the go-to solution of course but needs some searching. Not having hands on makes that simply guess work

    - - - - - - - - - -

    @Wolvie730 MK7's driver is pretty darn close. Effective diameter 10.56. That means you get a little more fill. Good starting point. Difference is less than 10%.
    https://airtripper.com/1676/3d-print...iew-benchmark/

    - - - - - - - - - -

    http://reprap.org/wiki/Drive-gear

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  3. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by TommyDee View Post
    Relative feed-speed modifier code breaker thingy... basically slow all the S settings in the move setup g-code to a percentage between 27.8 and 35. Slower of course.

    In the .bfb slicers, you just change the parameters. Not the go-to solution of course but needs some searching. Not having hands on makes that simply guess work

    - - - - - - - - - -

    @Wolvie730 MK7's driver is pretty darn close. Effective diameter 10.56. That means you get a little more fill. Good starting point. Difference is less than 10%.
    https://airtripper.com/1676/3d-print...iew-benchmark/

    - - - - - - - - - -

    http://reprap.org/wiki/Drive-gear
    I will give that a try.

    this is what I had gotten. But the size is not right. My mic show it as 10.9
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/261837296658
    Last edited by Wolvie730; 04-20-2018 at 04:35 PM.

  4. #73
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    Oh that never happens! Must be your calipers

    - - - - - - - - - -

    I'd go for stainless steel any day. If you like exotic filaments, they will eat up the edges on brass in no time.

    I do like the analysis done on that blog. Never thought a smaller diameter gear would torque better than the larger one.

    So let me challenge you with this, Wolvie...

    One thing 3DS did right in the design was to add a bearing on both sides of the filament driver gear.
    This removes all the side load from the stepper motor's bearings (ideal!)
    What they left wide open is the slop in the positioning of the driver.
    This would settle in with many points of contact in the shell of the cartridge but allow enough slop just to center the driver mechanism.
    That means they fully intended on having the motor shaft be the primary locator for the cartridge.

    Another thought... there is no reason for the filament driver to be where it is.
    There is no reason the entire motor assembly and the feed mechanism cannot be remote.
    It doesn't even have to be connected with anything more than the Bowden tube and the 4-wire motor connector.
    That means the entire filament feed can be put on a shelf above the printer.
    With some of the other tricks we've learned, you could even make it a plug and play by simply plugging in the color you want at any time.
    (...of course, that requires characterizing your nozzles for depth in the heater block, and making the Bowden tube mods to allow spinning.)

    Okay, starting to ramble here, but yes, there are options.

  5. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by TommyDee View Post
    Oh that never happens! Must be your calipers

    - - - - - - - - - -

    I'd go for stainless steel any day. If you like exotic filaments, they will eat up the edges on brass in no time.

    I do like the analysis done on that blog. Never thought a smaller diameter gear would torque better than the larger one.

    So let me challenge you with this, Wolvie...

    One thing 3DS did right in the design was to add a bearing on both sides of the filament driver gear.
    This removes all the side load from the stepper motor's bearings (ideal!)
    What they left wide open is the slop in the positioning of the driver.
    This would settle in with many points of contact in the shell of the cartridge but allow enough slop just to center the driver mechanism.
    That means they fully intended on having the motor shaft be the primary locator for the cartridge.

    Another thought... there is no reason for the filament driver to be where it is.
    There is no reason the entire motor assembly and the feed mechanism cannot be remote.
    It doesn't even have to be connected with anything more than the Bowden tube and the 4-wire motor connector.
    That means the entire filament feed can be put on a shelf above the printer.
    With some of the other tricks we've learned, you could even make it a plug and play by simply plugging in the color you want at any time.
    (...of course, that requires characterizing your nozzles for depth in the heater block, and making the Bowden tube mods to allow spinning.)

    Okay, starting to ramble here, but yes, there are options.
    because i was drilling and tapping the gear for a 4 way set screw. the brass was easier to do that to test with. (but if i get it dailed in. I would go stainless)

    yeah good article on the torque. Not just have to find the right gear to make this work. Then i will document what I did so others can replicate.

    yes there is options. i like the idea you are saying with extruder motor remote. (great way to go to the round peg drive shaft.)

  6. #75
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    This is a solution in the right direction:
    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1318849

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  8. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by TommyDee View Post
    Relative feed-speed modifier code breaker thingy... basically slow all the S settings in the move setup g-code to a percentage between 27.8 and 35. Slower of course.

    In the .bfb slicers, you just change the parameters. Not the go-to solution of course but needs some searching. Not having hands on makes that simply guess work

    - - - - - - - - - -

    @Wolvie730 MK7's driver is pretty darn close. Effective diameter 10.56. That means you get a little more fill. Good starting point. Difference is less than 10%.
    https://airtripper.com/1676/3d-print...iew-benchmark/

    - - - - - - - - - -

    http://reprap.org/wiki/Drive-gear
    @TommyDee
    The reprap MK7 10.5 is the Hob Dia. So that is the bottom of the flute. So that is where we are looking for that dia?
    Its possible the MK8 would be closer to what we are looking for?

  9. #77
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    I am using the terminology from the blog.
    A hob in gear cutters defines an intended pitch diameter.
    Pitch diameters just looking at a gear is not something you can point at, obviously.
    I suspect that is where the "hob" terminology comes from on the list.

    So for now I am going to assume effective diameter and hob diameter are the same as I am interpreting hob diameter to be pitch diameter.
    And since the numbers do mesh properly, I have little reason to doubt my findings. But I can be proven wrong

    effectivediameter.PNG

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Oh, and you could make all this moot... why not use whatever driver you really want and design a geared solution on the motor if you go remote anyway?

    This one is a bit radical but something like this:
    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5111

    This will also allow you to tweak the ratio at will.

    And if you don't want to print those gears, hobby stores have gears running out of their ears. Usually quite cheap!

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  11. #78
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    Hi Thanks a lot for your code information.

    I want to make a code to "release" filament code. May I know you also make or not.

    M551 P700 S35 ( is it Can be M551 P700 S-35)

    S is speed of extrusion can be negative value to be release filament?

  12. #79
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    M551 / M552 / M553 - Prime extruder 1 / 2 / 3. Parameter P = stepper steps, S = RPM * 10
    M561 / M562 / M563 - Reverse extruder 1 / 2 / 3. Parameter P = stepper steps, S = RPM * 10

    I found this as a 3D Systems reference so it should be right.

    Join the cube 3 g-code thread and feel free to participate on getting to the bottom of this 3DS version of g-code.

    Scroll to the bottom of this multi-post mess to see what all I got from 3DS (scroll ALL THE WAY DOWN to this purplee colored text in the link)
    http://www.print3dforum.com/showthre...ll=1#post44862


    Last edited by TommyDee; 09-27-2018 at 04:23 AM.

  13. #80
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    I know that development for these is probably not ongoing much, but I've found this mod incredibly helpful in both learning about how my Cube 3 worked, and making it "actually" work (instead of having filament snap inside the bowden tube and then slowly poke a hole in the side of the tube in the middle of a 15 hour print).

    I really didn't have much of an issue installing this on the right side, but on the left side, the clamp just seemed a little too short to snap into place. It could just be a manufacturing defect, but neither side would really lock in (though the 2nd side was secure enough to print without issue). After attempting to stretch out the clip with a blowdryer and leaving me with a completely warped clamp, I decided to try to figure out how to mod the STL in Blender. So, I went ahead and stretched out the clips by about 3mm in order to get them to lock in place.

    I figured I would put this in here, in case anyone else has this issue.

    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3184105

    And of course, major thanks goes to MajorOCD/MegaloDon for this mod. Without it, I'm sure I would have trashed this thing in disgust by now.

    EDIT: I just realized that my thingiverse page won't publish until tomorrow, since I'm a new user.

 

 

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