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  1. #1
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    Cube 3 Extruder Hub V2 - FTF (Free The Filament)

    FTF.JPG

    Since I came up with a way to load the filament with a print file, the release tabs and big spring were no longer needed. I have since modified it so much that I thought it should have a new thread and version.


    I included the .bfb files in case you need to make adjustments.
    This is what "Load_Filament_PLA_Left.bfb" looks like:
    Load_Filament.JPG

    This is designed to work with a 500 mm tube, but you can adjust it for different lengths.
    Line 17 is the one to adjust to make it feed more or less. M551 is for the left extruder and M552 is for the right. P is the amount to extrude and S is the speed.
    You will notice that 2 other lines have M551. Line 15 is to load slowly past the extruder so it doesn't jam. Line 17 is to load faster to the hotend. And line 22 is to purge the hotend. You should only need to adjust line 17.


    This is designed to not have to remove the cartridge unless there is a jam in the feeder (I have yet to encounter one).
    Retraction is MUCH better with this mod. You don't get that clacking sound at all when it retracts and it doesn't leave those buggers on the top nearly as bad as with the cartridge. It is almost as good as my Prusa i3.
    It is much easier to feed in new filament since I added a guide that brings it directly to the drive gear.


    The extruder needs a small piece of tubing with a barrel nut. You can take what is already in there and screw the barrel nut on further so the tube is almost touching the drive gear, and then cut the tubing flush to the outside of the metal housing.
    BN.JPG
    It uses the original screws, except it uses 4 of the countersunk ones. So you'll have to get 2 from another cartridge.


    The chip changer uses a spring from a spare hotend.
    CC1.JPG

    I added letters for the switch. I for Infinity Rinse Away, P for PLA, and A for ABS. They are separate shells so you can print the chip holder in 2 colors. If anyone wants the letters removed or the order changed, just ask and I can make the change.
    CC2.JPG

    I also converted "Chip_Changer_v2_14" into a .bfb file, edited it, and then converted it to a .cube3 file. The post needs to be perfectly round and it was getting blobs on one side due to retraction. I removed the retraction from the post and left it elsewhere. If you print Chip_Changer_v2_14.cube3 (put on a USB flash drive and print it directly) it will come out much smoother than printing the .stl from Cube Print software. I included the .cube3 and the .stl files in case you want to try another slicer, etc.

    Download the files here >>> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B6...DVIZXlpVHQtUTg

    Download the Load Filament files here >>> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B6...W1ZX2t1V29IdVk

    The screws that I used on this are as follows:
    Screws.JPG
    From left to right in the pic:
    #4 x 3/8 (x4 - 3 for "Fitting.stl" and 1 for the chip changer lever)
    #4 x 5/8 (x7 - 3 for "Chip_Holder.stl" and 4 for the clamp)


    Every part is designed to print on the Cube 3 with Cube Print software at 200 microns. I did this because not everyone has a printer other than the Cube 3 and not everyone wants to use 3rd party software. This is important because, for example, if I try to print a part on my Prusa, the tolerances are not the same. Precision is vital to making this work.


    This is the thread on how to modify the hotend >>> http://www.print3dforum.com/showthre...ll=1#post40641
    Last edited by MegaloDon; 08-16-2017 at 06:26 PM.

  2. Thanks bolsoncerrado, Eastman thanked for this post
  3. #2
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    but not everyone has a spare spring

  4. #3
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    Very good work ,, yo just need to update it to hold filament spooler ,, 1 kg will be perfect
    thank you for sharing

  5. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by chaman View Post
    Very good work ,, yo just need to update it to hold filament spooler ,, 1 kg will be perfect
    thank you for sharing
    I'm not sure about adding a filament holder due to the extra weight it adds to the clamp. I use this one that I designed:
    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2122618

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by Mythandar View Post
    but not everyone has a spare spring
    Sorry about that. Want me to send you one?

  6. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by MegaloDon View Post
    Sorry about that. Want me to send you one?
    No thanks. I'll get it figured out.

  7. #6
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    Now if this and Bolsoncerrado's extruder had a baby you'd have the best of both worlds!

    May want to make an alternative chip changer for just PLA and ABS as not many people tend to us infinity?

  8. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ardoneye View Post
    Now if this and Bolsoncerrado's extruder had a baby you'd have the best of both worlds!
    That was TommyDee's extruder. Bo just posted it.

    Quote Originally Posted by Ardoneye View Post
    May want to make an alternative chip changer for just PLA and ABS as not many people tend to us infinity?
    I don't have a rinse away cartridge and I still use it. Just don't put a chip in there. It's there in case you need it but you don't have to use it.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Clamp.JPG

    Printed the clamp in PETG using Mythandar's temp modifier (http://www.print3dforum.com/showthre...ll=1#post41571).

    I set it to ABS at 250c. I had to use a raft (made my own). Smaller prints don't seem to need a raft with LokBuild.
    It is much more flexible, so it's much easier to put on and take off. And I read that it is a lot more likely to retain its shape. The PLA printed version tends to warp inward over time and not be as tight of a fit.

  9. #8
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    Just a BTW: If you do not have a hot-end installed but the chip is present on that side, it gives a temperature error.
    Done that a few times and drives me nuts every time because I forget to troubleshoot the presence of the chip.

    Point being, if you fully load the chip holder including infinity rinse, you will need a hot-end installed for that side or remove the hub.

    I find that with the other hub, the second position is the "standby" location. That has helped manage my problem.

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by TommyDee View Post
    Point being, if you fully load the chip holder including infinity rinse, you will need a hot-end installed for that side or remove the hub.
    So it basically needs a park position. Shouldn't be too hard to accomplish. It could be in between since it lifts the chip when switching. Or I could just make an extra spot.
    Last edited by MegaloDon; 08-15-2017 at 02:35 AM.

  11. #10
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    By checking measurements, seems like your hub holder is slightly "uncentered", perhaps these few milimeters or micrometers are creating too much stress to your shaft...

 

 

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