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  1. #1
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    Nozzle blob buildup when using Lockbuild

    So anyone using Lokbuild, here's a question for you: I leveled the bed, autogap Z and started a print.... Which started to adhere to the nozzle walls and soon creating a big blob of melted plastic sliding everywhere on the bed wherever the nozzle moved....

    I also tried to manually level the gap and hitting the invisible button but then it either prints on the air or scratches the lokbuild area.... Wth???

  2. #2
    3D Printer Legend
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    Is this the same crazy printer that had the print-on-the-edge problem?

    LokBuild is not working on PrintRBot material unless you squish it to the plate.
    3DS filament works great with the LokBuild.

    I use Glue; I make sure the plate is at least 20*C; And I have a large gap.
    Every print has a very reasonable 1st layer that is not squished.

    Beauty of glue on LokBuild is that the glue stays on the plate, not the part.
    Meaning you can wet it, slurry it, and let it dry and it is as good as new... for about 5-6 times.

  3. #3
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    Well part of the fun on lokbuilding the plates was to save on glues and hairspray.... The other thing is it's the same filament on both, and I've had successful full plates printed with both printers.... Seems like a bit random but directly related to the damn gap too....

    I've tried with both the invisible button and without it... Is there any actual, real use to complete the step 2 with the invisible. Thing?


    Re the bad bed on the edge, idk bc I took the habit of manually pushing it back all the way before starting any print, so the error does not repeat.

  4. #4
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    I could reduce the gap but that doesn't allow a quality print. Bottom line; whatever it takes. ...and I have a lot of glue!

    I do not know what the invisible button does. It does some kind of ranging.
    But the routine may be dependent on completing the routine in order to take the default gap.
    I set mine 3mm below the nozzle so I don't crash when I use the glass plate.

    The thing is, I really like the printrbot filament, so I will accept the limitations.
    And I am sure there are other filaments with these "additives" to make better prints.

    If I part a printer in the FS section, do you want the MoBo for your crazy printer?

  5. #5
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    Sure will lol But i dont think its that much crazy "alone". There must be some other sensor speaking (messing) to it I think.

    So on the lokbuild plates, what gap are you using?

  6. #6
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    0.3mm... just over what the stock gap gauge does at the label. This means I see the filament being "laid down"... not just squished.
    So the 1st layer thickness actually clears the nozzle. That's how I am getting these really good test prints.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    That would be easier to test, just put that motherboard in another printer.

    Then again, there are no sensors. 3DS uses a really crude homing setup... drive to the end and reset.
    Yours is not resetting. I can easily see how that is a bug on the motherboard, and quite unique to yours, apparently.

    I now have 4 and I have no intentions of maintaining 4 printers.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #7
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    That would make sense on the printer head taking the just deposited filament and taking it with it when moving and forming the blob. I'll increase the gap then, thanks.

    So you're selling the whole printer or just the mobo?

  8. #8
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    Thinking of parting a printer.

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  10. #9
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    ok keep me posted. seems 3.01 as gap and some hairspray on the lokbuild did the trick

    will post pics l8r.

 

 

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