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  1. #1
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    Cube3 Manual Winder Tool ANYONE?

    OK somehow I lost the VERY ONLY screwdriver that fitted PERFECTLY inside the drive gear of the cartidge hubs so I can initially wind some filament from the spool up to the nozzle for the very first print...

    Has anyone came up to a printable tool to do this?

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    No1?

  3. #3
    3D Printer God(dess)
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    Square drive #S2 1/4" driver in a printed handle...
    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2550468

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Again, a small low power cordless electric screwdriver would be nice.

  4. #4
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    or a "push button" nema motor for the matter lol

  5. #5
    3D Printer God(dess)
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    Alright, you convinced me to just order one...
    Real easy to do a Li-Ion conversion.
    smallgearmotor.PNG

  6. #6
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    BWahahaha! Cant wait to see the vid!

  7. #7
    3D Printer God(dess)
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    ...and why would I video this function?
    It is just to run the filament for 20".
    The last 1" into the nozzle will be manual as always.
    The Li-Ion cell is an AA equivalent size at 14500 which I have a lot of.
    Assuming 4S1P is 6V vs. 7.4V (8.4V at peak) 2S1P.
    2S2P is 3V so Li-Ion can be 2P1S or 4P1S.
    Tabs are normally easily modified to suit.
    No problem for DC motors on short duty cycles.
    They just run a little faster.
    I don't have time to waste on NiMH!
    I've converted almost all my AA Alkaline devices to 1 Li-Ion and a dummy using a diode.
    The voltage drop across a power diode is enough to keep the electronics safe with a fully charge Li-Ion.
    I use a Iforgethowmanywattzener diode, not for the zerer function, but because they have the least v-drop @ ~0.5V.
    So a 3V device will see 3.9V at full charge dropping to about 3.2V at nominal charge.
    No more alkaline sag either.
    Just be careful about the total current you will be drawing because you need to factor that into the diode's rating.
    Saved 100's of $/USD every year for several years now.
    Just buy quality Li-Ion cells and chargers; XTAR chargers, Panasonic, Sanyo; and now LG is up and coming.
    I also use only protected Li-Ion cells so they never over-discharge from user error (...called laziness).
    Last edited by TommyDee; 11-09-2017 at 08:26 AM.

  8. #8
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    I just ordered one, damnit! LOL

  9. #9
    3D Printer God(dess)
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    Finally!!! Finally got my cordless screwdriver. Works nice.

    Tried the initial setup for replacing Alkaline with Li-Ion and that failed for several reasons.
    One being that there is very little size tolerance in the battery carrier.
    This leaves out a lot of 14500 Li-Ion cells since they are either protected, oversized, or flat-topped.

    I made a quick mod using 10440 Li-Ion cells. Printed an adapter case, and added a short extension piece of copper to make it fit right.
    A jumper on the backside and it works with 8.4V. The extra RPM is quite welcome.

    Bottom line, only size compliant button top Li-Ion cells will work.
    Yet, I rarely recommend unprotected cells.
    So you're all on your own on this one.
    cellmake.PNGbypass.PNG

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Okay, so these unprotected 14500 cells work without issues.
    http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index....product_id=477

    Still need a jumper of sorts to connect the returns.
    If nothing else, you can put dummy cells in there (solid metal bar).

    This mod kicks up the RPM by about 20% too.

  10. #10
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    Interesting thing on the RPM.... I always thought rechargable cells weak point was the power they deliver steady...

 

 

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