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Thread: Gap Gauge

  1. #1
    3D Printer Noob
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    Gap Gauge

    Hi, I'm Massimo and I live in Italy. I have buy a second Hand Cube3 white.

    I'm starting to play with the printer, but I need some spare parts.

    I need a new Wiper Holster, and I have printed one

    IMG_4410.jpg (It's my first print)

    I don't have the Gap Gauge and it's difficult to calibrate the printer.

    Can you tell me the thickness of the Gap Gauge, please?

    I'll try to print a Wiper Cutter but I have problem with old cartridges with no good filament.

    I hope to modify the firmware and use the printer with non original filament.

    Thanks all for your help

    Massimo

  2. #2
    Expert 3D Printer
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    Quote Originally Posted by gpgsm View Post
    Can you tell me the thickness of the Gap Gauge, please?
    Just use a standard sheet of paper.

  3. #3
    3D Printer Noob
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    Thanks

  4. #4
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    Hello, did you make it with a simple sheet of paper? i have the some problem xD

  5. #5
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    If you use one of 100 or 120gram it may be more precise, but 80gram should do as well.

  6. #6
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    Hi Massimo,
    The Gap gauge is .10mm.
    I found that using the Gap gauge, or for that matter any gauge, requires a "feel" of resistance while dragging the gauge between two points
    to set the gap. The "feel" is different for each individual person. Your drag could be tight, while mine is loose.
    The Cube3 has a manual adjustment to raise and lower the tray to facilitate accurate adjustment. (Setup>Calibrate>Auto Calibrate>check mark>)
    But, it is still an inaccurate "feel". To reference the "feel". place the gauge between the extruder nozzle and the plate. Adjust the the plate until .01mm up/down movement results in a drag/no-drag "feel". The Gap is .10mm when no drag occurs. Note the number, eg 4.03mm. Adjust the Gap for a positive .06 to .07 movement, eg 4.09-4.10mm. And print a small test. I use the built-in "Print Test" to print 2-3 layers, cancel the print and the judge the quality. Refer to Simplify3D's web sight to see pictures of good/bad quality.
    Using this method dials-in the standard .38mm nozzle for the Cube3, all three of mine, for PLA material.
    Set the Gap every time before printing, after changing cartridges, or printer sides.
    A good setup, results in good prints. Your results may vary. G70

  7. #7
    3D Printer God(dess)
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    Actually it is exactly 0.23mm. There is an obscure video from 3DS that shows that the gap is measured at the label on the gage.
    With LokBuild, I aim for 0.26-0.28mm gap to avoid the "elephant foot" (thanks for defining the squish, Todd!).

    The default gap is based on the calibration setting. You can set this very low and it will gap to millimeters if you want.
    Since I change out thicker plates, I am only making sure it doesn't -ever- crash into the head.

    Also, auto-level is an interesting thing. if you print a 6" square on the build plate, you will hear an occasional "tick".
    This is Z adjusting itself for the slight remaining tilt in the physical setup.
    If this Auto-Z adjusts itself more than twice across 6 inches, you can improve level by manually dialing in the plate level with the adjusters until you actually get a non-software aided leveling (which in fact are steps within a deviation allowance).

    Bo, you will remember your bout with this when you had the weird "tick" every 3/4" of travel or so. Yours was amplified by some harmonic in your printer.
    But the OCD among you will recognize what I am saying about how 3DS manages Auto-Level and how you can dial it in perfectly. Just listen for the tick while printing a 6" square to see which direction you need to adjust the magnet-pads.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    ...oh, and for the 3D Builder crowd: (all 2 of you!)
    The 1st layer of 3D Builder is very thin compared to the Cube software if you do not use rafts in 3D Builder.
    This requires a much closer gap, probably the 0.10mm that JackMeoff eludes to.

  8. #8
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    Tommy,
    The point of my post was derive a method that would eliminate the inaccuracy of the "feel". The gauge's thickness can be .10, .23 or a 2x4 stud it doesn't matter.
    Start from from a known reference and set the gap to any distance one desires, that will give consistency. Defining the known reference was my intent.
    I have read many posts, here and other sites, about gap setting anywhere from a "soft pull" to "can't move it", using various weights of paper. None, of which, could
    possibly give an accurate starting point from which to set the gap.
    This is not intended to be "Let's starting a pissing contest" reply. But, just clarifying what I was saying. G70

  9. #9
    3D Printer God(dess)
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    Meh... read my post for what it is worth.

  10. #10
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    I found both of your replies useful.

    So I'm using LokBuild on top of the stock plate. The thing is, I manually set the gap with the stock gap gauge (I stop when I can feel it just slightly tugging) and most of the time it prints fine. But the actual number of mm fluctuates each time I set it (it's usually around -3.3 mm for me, but it can +/- about 0.7 mm). I find this very strange.

    Also does anybody have tips for levelling the bed? With the LokBuild, I find the auto-leveling is hit or miss (even though the printer says "Auto Level Successful"). I know I could print a big square, but I'm wondering if there's easier way.

 

 

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