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  1. #1
    Regular 3D Printer
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    Question Spring in Print Head?

    I lost a spring and reassembled a head w/o the spring with only the tubing holding the head in place.

    It works fine (at least for the 3 or so prints that I made)

    Does anyone have experience printing without the spring in the print head? My other 3d printers do not have a spring in the head (Hexagon and E3D)

    What is the spring for?

    I am re-imagining the (awesome) print head that Don made, so it so that is hopefully can be more durable with a shorter filament path from the top Bowden coupler. Probably will require at-least ABS.


    PS: The cube hub and clip are almost close to "gold master" release. Still have a few more test prints to do, now on version 10 and counting. :-)


    Constantly inspired by the work that MegaloDon, TommyDee, bolsoncerrado, Mythandar, Fuganater and MarkRon have put into this thing.
    JH
    Last edited by zugok; 12-13-2017 at 02:55 AM.

  2. #2
    3D Printer God(dess)
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    The spring makes sure the nozzle is fully seated in the heater block.
    Other models typically have the nozzle as part of heater block itself.
    If you get T-errors, you'll know why.

    I am eyeing those ruby-tipped nozzles.
    And tapping a heater block has been accomplished.

    Ready to take that to the next level?

  3. #3
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    Thanks Tommy.

    The ruby nozzles sound cool.

    At this time all I want to do is print PLA, ABS, and HIPS (yeh boring..) maybe some PetG, to make toys and models of the 3D characters I create. http://zugok.cgsociety.org/

    I used to sculpt maquettes many yeas ago...


    "And tapping a heater block has been accomplished."

    Did you tap the heater block on the cube 3? If so, how to do add threads to the metal nozzle, or perhaps a metal replacement?

    Yes am a ready to take it to the next level, what do you have in mind?

    Tomorrow I hope to find time to model a new nozzle housing, I am printing Don's nozzle in PC+ tonight.

    Cheers



  4. #4
    3D Printer God(dess)
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    The heater block is aluminum.
    The idea is to press-fit the stainless steel tube in aftermarket nozzles.
    Thread the heater-block in the Cube3
    The nozzle housings will now only carry the 2.8mm stock Teflon tube.
    Installing the housing will now line up the Teflon tube with the fixed stainless steel tube.

    I haven't gone this far yet, but it is quite doable.
    The result will me much like what we have now, just fixed the metal bits.

    Oh, and no more spring!

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  6. #5
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    Just want to chime in on tapping the aluminum heating block--I've done it with three Cube3 machines, and the process isn't too bad. I keep trying to finish the documentation, but the last few months caught up with me, so it wasn't prioritized. I'm going to get the guide published tonight, since I promised a friend I'd have it done for him tonight Stay tuned

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  8. #6
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    Hey Tommy.

    Glad a spring-less solution is on the way, do you need to take the cube apart to do this?

    Adam, I am looking forward to your efforts.

    Cheers
    JH


    PS could not print PC+ yet. My Anet power supply is too weak to hit 110 + 270 deg, and the enclosure door for my Taz needs fixing.....doh! Printed parts in ABS, for now...
    Last edited by zugok; 12-14-2017 at 01:17 AM.

  9. #7
    3D Printer God(dess)
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    I would take it apart to do the machining, yes.

 

 

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