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Thread: HubCap V1

  1. #21
    3D Printer God(dess)
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    oops, fixed...

  2. #22
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    Got the files, thanks.


    Cool design, I will give that one a shot!

    I did consider putting the "side nub" on the cap but was concerned of the end coming loose if the nozzle would stick for any reason. If you look closely I "reversed" the end cap threads so when removing the nozzle from the cube heat block it could only tighten onto the end and not get stuck within the heat block.

    Why is it so important the end nozzle hole is a small lip? I kept the hole smaller since I am thinking the extra material might help with strength?

    Cheers....sleepy going to bed now....

    JH

    PS: What is the cylinder for?
    Last edited by zugok; 12-26-2017 at 08:04 AM.

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  4. #23
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    I was just looking at the 10mm thread to see what was possible and got carried away.

    I did already drop a cap but it was easily retrieved. It was a cool printer though.

    Main reason for posting them is the M5 and M6 thread. Functional right off the print bed.

    Oh, and the smaller lip is just to pull the plastic away from the hot metal tube.

    And the cylinder is to let the threads cool. Without something else to print, the M10 thread got pretty messy.

    And for what its worth, the M10 thread clearance is 0.08mm radial.
    It is a triple start rolled thread at 6mm pitch.
    The thickness of the thread is 0.35mm
    I'm sure this will come in handy someday.
    Last edited by TommyDee; 12-26-2017 at 05:33 PM.

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  6. #24
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    well dammit...70 nm prints ~1hr are failing on my left extruder. Extruder area gets too hot and filament clogs as extruder heats up. This is with HubCap (printed in PLA that is warping and cracking in the heat) installed with Capricorn tubing and newly printed nozzle. Clearly is seems that the left extruder motor, fan or something is going on the cube printer. Even when not in use there seems to be some warmth...

    Right side extruder prints fine and does not heat up at all. Did a ~2hr print test with the PLA printed nozzle and it completed (right side) but there where several printing errors on the object that I suspect is due to the PLA softening in the heat.

    IMHO I don't see how a PLA 3D printed nozzle is a long-term solution.

    I have a second (new) Cube printer that I will test on, and use the Right side on the current cube. In time I may dispose of the printer and buy a new replacement, too much effort to try and fix considering how cheap they are right now...


    Polycarbonate Nozzle next...


    PS: I got some M5 fittings in the mail today. I will make sure to offer a nozzle that will work with an M5 tap. IMHO, M6 is better as the end can be drilled out large enough to fit the 3DS PTFE tube. M5 looks too small to do that.
    Last edited by zugok; 12-27-2017 at 10:48 AM.

  7. #25
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    Im curious on peoples opinions printing this in PLA.... The area does get hot at a time specially on long prints, so the PLA will eventually deform over time.... hmmmm

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  9. #26
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    I'm running a PLA printed nozzle running PLA for quite some time now.
    At least 4Kg worth, running some very big prints.
    So yes, it can be done.

    I don't like ABS from my printer. It is slicker and layer-to-layer adhesion is not as good.
    I've run ABS with the PLA nozzle and it did deform some but the print finished fine.
    Made a small mod in the nozzle but hadn't tested ABS again.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    The attached has a 4.5mm pitch on the M10 thread (vs. 6mm).
    Still worked right off the print-bed.
    Still 42mm of internal tubing for the M5 fitting.

    Print 200um, strong, cross.


    Check the hole in the M5 fittings.
    I've reported this before but I received a batch with a hole smaller than 2mm.

    Zugok, they make M6 fittings already drilled for 4mm tube-through.
    I still cannot figure out a good reason for that one.

    However, there are a lot of brass PC4-M6 fittings that have a bad thread.
    It is neither 1mm pitch nor a full M6 thread.
    They simply don't fit anything correctly.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by bolsoncerrado View Post
    Im curious on peoples opinions printing this in PLA.... The area does get hot at a time specially on long prints, so the PLA will eventually deform over time.... hmmmm
    The only part under stress is the distance from the spring rest (top, not the push nut end) to the top of the nub.
    If you remove a hot hot-end, then the spring will be working against the cap.
    Best to let things cool off before removing the hot-end.
    The only deformation I've seen to date is the body would bend a little.
    I added some stiches in the print and that took care of that.
    I have a feeling it was more due to unequal thermal expansion than deformation.

    I'll give this new version some time on the printer and see what it does.
    Attached Files Attached Files

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  11. #27
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    Thank you TommyDee!

    It works in PLA, but as noted by TD, a person needs to wait for the head to cool before removal (I tried a few hot.. but one got stuck, another fell apart). As I had hoped to make it more idiot proof (meaning myself..) so PC seems important.

    I do have my nozzle working with Polycarbonate, but honestly the way it is printed (with the silly loop I put on top...) requires tons of clean-up. The whole point was to create a nozzle the would be easier to print. My design does do that reasonably well in PLA as print cleanup is minimal, but it is much harder in Polycarbonate.

    Helps to step away from a project for a few hours....

    TD, if I continue to revise it all I would do is end up with a design very similar to yours, perhaps with the nub on the main body, and maybe the horizontal side bearing-lock groove added, why did you leave off the horizontal groove?

    During my tests I discovered that adding a filament channel to my "HubClip" might help keep the filament in alignment. I am testing a variation with the channel now.

    I am so sorry that I have not posted the files yet, I don't want to release a file that is broken and waste other people time and filament.

    The working files need to be ready this week to print this... (it is about 20 STL files setup for the Cube...)

    FigTest.jpg

  12. #28
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    I don't post files that are not done either so that is understandable.
    I'm just throwing the file out there if someone wants to play with it.

    The horizontal stripe doesn't need to be there. It is a result from turning the stock nozzle in the heater block.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    WRT your filament driver motor heat issues...

    The only thing that should warm these motors up is running very hard filament. This is where the cube doesn't flex... not even a little!
    I've noticed the effort required to push a gritty GITD that required a little extra heat, as well as some white stuff that felt much the same way.
    Even used up a roll of super-hard silver by cutting a small V-groove in the driver gear. Used up the whole kilogram that would otherwise have been trashed.

    So a failed bearing in your driver could cause issues that include heating up the driver mech. It could also be the square drive. If the motor is working hard driving the mech, then this junction between the machine and the mech will also heat up. You could oil the shaft to ease that level of heat inducing friction. Figuring out where the heat is coming from should help diagnose this. The only direct contact between the motor and the mech is the shaft. Shorted winding perhaps? Ohm meter! (Crimped motor or fan wires shorting under a plastics screw boss?)

    Unfortunately, the stepper requires a digital pulse sequence to work so unless you have some stepper drivers laying around, it is hard to test the free running current of the stepper. That is the easiest way to diagnose the motor itself. ...or $10 and you get a new drop-in replacement motor.

    So next time you are inside the machine, unplug the motor and see how easy it spins. Maybe it is a dry bearing or a foreign object interfering with the rotor.
    Stepper tend to cog but not be restricted. And is the fan spinning at the bottom of the housing? I know you've talked about it, but never confirmed it actually works.
    If you spec out that fan, you will find it should be a fairly high velocity fan. It is rated well above the norm available on eBay. I did have to replace mine.
    Remember that steppers in a shorted configuration acts like an electric brake. That is why I recommend unplugging it to test its free running condition.
    Last edited by TommyDee; 12-28-2017 at 05:35 AM.

  13. #29
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    My testing is complete, I will have the Cube Hub files posted later today....whoo hoo!

    Thanks TD for the great assessment.

    The hardest filament I have run was some eSun PLA+, noting exotic. I does seem like a failing stepper, if I can get a replacement for ~$10 that that might what I will do. I doubt it is the fan as the air-low between each side is similar still, simply cool air on one side and warm on the other. I will find out for sure when I take the Cube apart.

    I am a little burned out of 3d printer repair thanks to my Anet A8/AM8 (CCC...Cheap Chinese Crap). Thankfully my Taz5 "just works" but it has a slight z-banding(for now...) that is typical from 3D printers that use a Z lead screw. What i love about the cube...no Z-banding!

    I am not an engineer so I am not aware of some details of how the steppers work, I appreciate your advice and enlightenment. When I get to "cube-repair time", you advice and tips will likely be essential. Again thanks.

    Would you mind sharing a link, for the stepper replacement you found ,and maybe the fan specs/replacement?


    Cheers

    JH

    - - - - - - - - - -

    STL's published here:

    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2735871

    Please LMK of any issues.

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  15. #30
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    Don posted the info but I cannot find it for anything. Bo?

    oh, wait...
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by TommyDee; 12-29-2017 at 01:25 AM.

 

 

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