Cube3 running with e3DV6 hotend!

[Kiza]

Nice Work, dont you have any concerns about the heatbed cables?

Thanks! Heatbed cables? What sort of concern?

[buddybu]

<Removed image -- was translated into text. Wasn't that pretty?>
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It looks like you don't have strain relief here. Maybe another angle shwoing the path of the heat bed wires.
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Kiza -- in one of your images, from the above rear with the spool to the right, the heated bed cable looks like it is wrapped around the edge of the printer and provides no strain relief.

[TommyDee]

Buddy... the images aren't images.

[buddybu]

Yea, I attempted to post from my work computer and the security software turned the picture into text....

[Kiza]

Here's the way the cables are organized:

157216051_1371963059820139_5610134628289756070_n.jpg

[razor81]

Thats really Overkill Kiza...way better than My build...
My cube3corexy is currently on hold ..

[bolsoncerrado]

Same here!

Now that I have a Prusa I don't mind taking the Cube apart and rebuild I would like to go with a 2in1out Extruder (as I hate to level 2 Extruders). Idea is to use the Cube with a rather small nozzle to do miniature prints.

So Yes - a BOM would be awesome!

Have you thought about how to resolve the 2 in 1 out Extruder in the Cube3 space?







Well, since the Instructables/BOM is taking a while, here's my initial battery of Introductory Questions

I did not use original Cube 3 screen. Instead I have used the one that comes with BTT TFT24, the same size screen. It just has to be carefully separated from the board. I personally damaged mine, luckily I had a spare one laying around.

Based on your (cracking) experience, any tips to sepparate this? Hair dryer maybe?

Done
Took me only 4 years
I will soon publish the instructables and models.
Attachment 4133

I think it's a pretty good printer now!

It is!! Any plans making it drag the filament from the original printer side decks?

Thermistor - probably NTC104GT-2, any supported by the software will do. Connector - so far Molex microfit 3.0, right angle.


Yep, but with 2 extruders it will be over the top, I already have 9.2A brick for it.


Here is a quick sketch, view from the bottom:
Attachment 4059

Stock table with white stuff removed, turned upside-down (magnet pockets will open from the bottom). Magnets glued in with thermal glue.
PCB is attached to the table with 3M 468MP. PCB magnet holes can serve as table stabilizers.

According to the developer of the sensor, it is using the modulated IR light, which is ok with glass surfaces. The problem comes more from a shiny aluminum bed beneath the glass. I just have tried putting a white sheet of paper below the glass and results became much more consistent.
Also considering trying the print surface films too. According to some discussions on forums, light colored ones are preferable over the dark ones.
Will do more tests once I have it. I just need to flatten the original print table, as it is definitely far from being flat.

I reckon the heat bed is the most intriguing part of the setup: parts, custom made plate? did you anodize the alu in black to make the reading leveling sensor more reliable?

Small update:

No more mechanical endstops, sensorless homing and stealth chop are working.

Have you continued printing in stealthchop? Any skipped layer/missstepped deffects? TMC2209's good to order!? I've seen there's a v3.0 out there for these but perhaps "too new"?


What about the 24DC-power-brick-with-same-connector thing? Reliable enough to power everything so far? Any purchase link?


Ty mate.

[Kiza]

Well, since the Instructables/BOM is taking a while, here's my initial battery of Introductory Questions
Based on your (cracking) experience, any tips to sepparate this? Hair dryer maybe?

Let's start putting it all together.
Regarding the screen, this picture will help you:
162788445_292595832251441_6701998949010052277_n.jpg

Even if you cut it, it's not a big deal, there are tons of 40pin parallel interface 2.4" screens on aliexpress, they all are under $5.
You may need to recompile the BTT firmware with the correct driver setting. I initially had incorrect colors, than I found the correct driver for my spare screen.

It is!! Any plans making it drag the filament from the original printer side decks?

That's a feature I'm thinking about, did not come up with a good solution yet But I have taken some steps forward and prepared for it.

This structure of the printer is pretty weak:
162795438_712511889424005_4712877468027527880_n.jpg

Mine even broke at the top bolt, that's why I have changed the screws.

I decided to strengthen it a little, I've printed these shims to put under the plastic cover to strengthen it:
162394895_269243208001324_7936629989588068210_n.jpg

Now I beleive it is possible to design some spool holder, that will mainly be attached to these bolts, directly to metal frame.
Still thinking on it.

I reckon the heat bed is the most intriguing part of the setup: parts, custom made plate? did you anodize the alu in black to make the reading leveling sensor more reliable?

I did not do the custom PCB heater yet, here's what I'm using for now:
163105011_277224727202057_1832943628359428741_n.jpg162084775_482656053166765_8036111054559901618_n.jpg162272962_999667323897633_8612249382610459424_n.jpg

The base is 5mm thick laser-cut plexiglass 170x170mm plate with the magnets attached to it (the ones from the original bed holders). The print plate is 2mm thick 170x170mm duralumin board with 160x160mm 24V 100W silicon heat-pad glued to it. The rest is 4x M3 concealed head screw, M3 nylock bolt and a spacer. I unfortunately don't have a link to a supplier of the heat pad. But you can find it on aliexpress or ask the seller to do a custom one for you (I actually got mine this way).

These are used as spacers between the print bed and plexiglass base:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3287...archweb201603_

Some old pics (no magnets, but structure is visible)
28829258_10209015317979277_1267850564_n.jpg28313287_10208924608991609_8248317_n.jpg

There is a cork wood insulation between the base and print plate. The table is pretty stable, I leveled it once (preheated), and it holds the same shape pretty well. I only adjust the nozzle gap each time I do the print, I don't actually use the automatic bed leveling at this point, no need for it. I'm getting very nice first layers. And the IR sensor works very well. I did not anodize anything, I'm using the piece of white paper between the print bed and glass. The results with IR sensor are stable enough.

Have you continued printing in stealthchop? Any skipped layer/missstepped deffects? TMC2209's good to order!? I've seen there's a v3.0 out there for these but perhaps "too new"?

Dunno about v3.0, but v2.0 works pretty well. The motors seemed under-powered, when I used the proper RMS current values (212 and 233 mA), so I decided to use the peak values (300 and 330 mA) as RMS values in the parameters section. Motors are hotter now, but work very well. It also solved the problems I was having with false-positive firing of the sensorless homing. Now it is stable on sensitivity values of 114 on both X and Y. Very nice soft bump, with very rare harder bumps.

What about the 24DC-power-brick-with-same-connector thing? Reliable enough to power everything so far? Any purchase link?

Mine works very well with everything on, I already have tried to print with 2 extruders, no power issues, no hot wires, it's OK.
The link to similar to mine:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/POWERNEX-ME...UAAOSwcUBYK9KK
Note: It needs to be re-wired, you'll need to open the brick and solder the wires according to the original Cube pinout (written on the brick).

The are very nice Mean Well bricks, that you can find on ebay, 24V, 9.2 or 11.67A.
Here's one for example:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/MEAN-WELL-G...R/153349859348

I recently bought a spare pigtail for the brick, you can buy it and solder it yourself, the brick I bought with the correct plug, did not have the correct pinout anyway, the soldering is required.
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/globtek-inc/KPP424686F00/10187496

Shoot more questions, that will help to recall, what was done so far

The main part of the BOM:

2x Original E3D V6 Hotends, 24V Bowden version, with fittings, PTFE tubing, etc.
I'm not using the fans and fan shrouds that came with the kit.
https://e3d-online.com/collections/h...l-metal-hotend

All the cad files I will post, are designed for the original E3D V6.

The board:
MKS SGEN-L V2 with 5x TMC2209 V2:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001...4d824c4dVBpNHq

MKS IR Sensor:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005...4d824c4dVBpNHq

BTT TFT24:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3304...194932def8uAcn

Screen extender, 40pin 0.5mm pitch (I recommend buying 2 of them):
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000...4d824c4dVBpNHq

2x LM2596 DC-DC Adjustable Step-Down Buck Converters:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1PCS-LM2596...sAAOSw-JRfri2W

2x any small mosfet board, no need for high power ones. I'm using these:
https://www.reprap.me/power-expander.html

170x170mm borosilicate glass:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/170mm-x-170...72.m2749.l2649

The rest to come, with design files.

Enjoy

Edit:
If you're going to convert the Cube, do not throw away anything, a lot of stuff is reused here. (Even resistors for led lights and all sorts of stuff)

[TommyDee]

Oh that's purdy!

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I am not seeing why a universal hub, a corrected cartridge, wouldn't work in this arrangement to fill the sides in.

[bolsoncerrado]

My thoughts exactly, as the biggest PITA with the universal hub was the too-many-retractions-with-the-old-hotend-causes-too-many-clogs issue