Interesting idea! But the board already has DRV8825 drivers installed, in this case I'll have to use the external drivers. My concern is already limited space plus this approach may not be very good for the belt teeth health. That's the way Cube 3 original board was dealing with the endstops, but it was not doing it very well, the sound of skipping belt teeth drove me crazy
How about flags under the base for the "Y" motion end stops? Should remain within the confines. The floor of the "tray" seems to have the most amount of room.
How about flags under the base for the "Y" motion end stops? Should remain within the confines. The floor of the "tray" seems to have the most amount of room.
This is the endstop I'm going to be using:
Screen Shot 2018-03-02 at 12.25.44 PM.png
So far thinking of using the longer M3 socket cap screws that are holding the rails on the frame to attach the plastic holders for the endstops, still have to design them, waiting for the actual endstops to arrive.
The tray is going to be used to hold the board itself, so no room there. I will have to be creative with the placement of the board.
Case is great! But I will not use this controller in the final version, since I'm going to use the MKS SBASE 1.3 board, which has a heated bed control. This controller I bought when I wanted to reuse the Cube 3 original board. But not anymore.
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I am still struggling with a good and clean placement of the optical endstops, specially on the Y axis. Really don't want to over-complicate it.
The main problem is that a lot of good places are covered with the shell parts.
You can move the sensor with the y-tray and fix the flag below. Loosely carry the wires with the heater wires.
Thinking of this too, just cannot figure out yet the good placement and the way of placement. Really don't want to cut or drill any part of the shell itself.