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  1. #81
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    We all are haha!

    Start with a nice BOM!

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  3. #82
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    Same here!

    Now that I have a Prusa I don't mind taking the Cube apart and rebuild I would like to go with a 2in1out Extruder (as I hate to level 2 Extruders). Idea is to use the Cube with a rather small nozzle to do miniature prints.

    So Yes - a BOM would be awesome!
    Last edited by Energyx; 01-10-2021 at 02:51 PM.

  4. #83
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    Sure thing, I will start preparing the BOM.

    Currently I'm trying to put together the design of the new heated bed, less bulky. The idea is to use the original table (I already removed the white coating on top of it) with original magnets glued in, but upside down. From the bottom I want to attach the heater PCB, custom designed, with 3 holes for the magnets, using 3M 468MP adhesive tape. Never had any experience with PCBs, Gerber or KiCad so far. Any help is welcome here. My cube runs on 24V, I am aiming on the 4.8 ohm resistance of the heated bed.

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  6. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kiza View Post
    Sure thing, I will start preparing the BOM.

    Currently I'm trying to put together the design of the new heated bed, less bulky. The idea is to use the original table (I already removed the white coating on top of it) with original magnets glued in, but upside down. From the bottom I want to attach the heater PCB, custom designed, with 3 holes for the magnets, using 3M 468MP adhesive tape. Never had any experience with PCBs, Gerber or KiCad so far. Any help is welcome here. My cube runs on 24V, I am aiming on the 4.8 ohm resistance of the heated bed.
    You will have to calculate how much current you Need for your heatbed... The original PS will Not be enough My guess is you will have to Go 12,5-15A to have decent heatbed power

  7. #85
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    Did that already, it's gonna be 5A max, currently I'm drawing 3.6A from my existing 24V 100W silicon heat-pad.
    I already swapped the original one with 24V 9.2A MeanWell PS, with the same connector.
    I just need to create the PCB "gerber" file to send for manufacturing.

  8. #86
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    Perhaps do a run and share the costs with us hehe

  9. #87
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    Crap, I had completely overlooked that. We can easily make custom heater boards cheap.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Kiza, what trace-resistance are you aiming for and for how many watts?

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  11. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by TommyDee View Post
    Kiza, what trace-resistance are you aiming for and for how many watts?
    4.8Ohm, 120W at 24V.

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  13. #89
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    What's a good thermister and connector? Trying to maintain some level of commonality.
    You're talking 5 amps at 24V so the standard power brick for the Cube3 will work; aim a little under 120 watts for margin maybe.
    Relieve the magnets? Use the reliefs as a plate fixing guide? Adhesive attachment? LOL Okay, you got me interested.

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  15. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by TommyDee View Post
    What's a good thermister and connector? Trying to maintain some level of commonality.
    Thermistor - probably NTC104GT-2, any supported by the software will do. Connector - so far Molex microfit 3.0, right angle.

    Quote Originally Posted by TommyDee View Post
    You're talking 5 amps at 24V so the standard power brick for the Cube3 will work; aim a little under 120 watts for margin maybe.
    Yep, but with 2 extruders it will be over the top, I already have 9.2A brick for it.

    Quote Originally Posted by TommyDee View Post
    Relieve the magnets? Use the reliefs as a plate fixing guide? Adhesive attachment? LOL Okay, you got me interested.
    Here is a quick sketch, view from the bottom:
    hotbed mk3 v6.png

    Stock table with white stuff removed, turned upside-down (magnet pockets will open from the bottom). Magnets glued in with thermal glue.
    PCB is attached to the table with 3M 468MP. PCB magnet holes can serve as table stabilizers.
    Last edited by Kiza; 01-14-2021 at 06:21 PM.

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