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  1. #1
    3D Printer Noob
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    Replace Cube 3 Nozzle

    The only thing we can't change in cube 3 is the nozzle, so if someone is good at designing, you could design a cube 3 nozzle and we could print it with a metal 3d printing service like this:https://www.shapeways.com/getting-st...41363ab24867a2

  2. #2
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    INdeed that would be a great idea as long as the price per unit stays reasonable...
    Perhaps it's "cheaper" to design the mold and make a "run" of several hundred or thousand "copies"?

  3. #3
    3D Printer Noob
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    Yes it could be an option too

  4. #4
    3D Printer God(dess)
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    Or put a screw machine to work... Might even consider brass or bronze while you're at it.

  5. #5
    Regular 3D Printer
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    That would be awesome! My machinist connection got fired for doing side jobs for free! I have 2 lathes but not comfortable with my skills to make any.

  6. #6
    3D Printer God(dess)
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    The hardest part is getting a good .020" hole in the end. Otherwise, just start with a brass solid rod.

    3mm ID on the tube and machine in the spring flange (push nut).
    You don't need to follow the original design completely.
    Just manage the appropriate interfaces and minimize the superfluous stock.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #7
    Expert 3D Printer
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    Quote Originally Posted by TommyDee View Post
    The hardest part is getting a good .020" hole in the end.
    Are you saying the hole in the end is .5 mm? I always thought it was .4 mm. That's good to know.

  8. #8
    Regular 3D Printer
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    I am thinking that the taper inside nozzle would be a beast to do.

    BTW- Tommy, that is a great reference picture.

  9. #9
    3D Printer God(dess)
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    I have not gauged the exact hole size Don, so don't quote me on it. It looks to me like it is actually tapered slightly which does lend itself to being a cast part.

    I also know I keep saying it is aluminum but may just as likely be zinc which casts much easier.

    Todd: I might be comfortable with a 1/16" ball end mill inside the bottom for the nozzle. Follow it with a 1/32" ball end to minimize the fine bore depth.

  10. Thanks JackMeoff thanked for this post
  11. #10
    Expert 3D Printer
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    Attached is a basic model of the nozzle with push-nut built in if anyone wants to do anything with it.
    I included a cutaway version to make it easier to measure.

    Can someone please check the dimensions to make sure they are accurate?
    Keep in mind that not all the dimensions need to be the same as the original but some do.
    It could be designed specifically for a custom designed print head enclosure.

    Download here >>> https://drive.google.com/open?id=1CX...IBxl3BMZQn9ffa

    If you have corrections or suggestions, please be specific and refer to the parts by color as it is in the example pics below.

    Outside (from top to bottom):
    Brown
    Teal
    Gray
    Blue
    Silver
    Red

    Inside (from top to bottom):
    Green
    Cyan
    Orange
    Pink
    Yellow

    Nozzle.JPGCutaway.JPG

  12. Thanks bolsoncerrado thanked for this post
 

 

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