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  1. #11
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    LOL... no worries:

    Remember to orient the start/stop groove on both.
    The stock core will work. Print the cooling tower!
    You might have to drill the "nut" with a 4.2mm drill (.166").
    Came out a little on the small side. ID printing on the Cube 3 is off by quite a bit.
    I found that 3DS suggested printing a "gauge" to know how to design inside diameters for the printer.
    That is the biggest guess work in the design aspects.

    Still have some finalizing to do but this is the direction I'm going.
    Should have the clear ABS soon so I can actually test an ABS version if it is a good quality ABS as they provided before in the fun pack.

    Getting pretty close to formulating thread-modeling too

  2. #12
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    Great video, Tom!


    - that nozzle holder looks different from the one I made a while back which uses a regular 6mm x 4mm teflon connector. Is this a modification, or a new design? And, can I print one for me?? Did you use ABS?

    - that nozzle looks different from the ones in the Cube cartridges. Is it? Did you find a source, or did you make it?

    - I am guessing the "tool" can be used to cut the groove (with very sharp edges) in the 4mm teflon tube... Can you share some details about it? I suppose a 2mm thick coin from any country could be used? How did you cut the slot - freehand, or with one of your machine tools? (How about another video??!)

    - Is this all covered already in another forum??


  3. #13
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    No, this is a design I came up with quite some time ago.
    I never released it formally, but it is out there.

    I don't yet trust it on printing ABS.
    All my prints have been PLA since I don't have a reliable ABS.

    The only piece you are missing is the core, John. It's attached.
    I haven't finished the full design yet.
    I need to put a better finger-wheel on the removable part rather than a hex.

    Also need to see if I can trap the 2.8mm tube in the core (final feeder tube) or if it is even needed.
    Right now, the tube remnant in the core is 42-42.5mm long.
    What may happened when you pull the nut is that the 2.8mm tubing will also pull out.
    If that happens, it is not the end of the world but I can trap it thereby shortening the tube a millimeter or two.
    Fewer restrictions is better, but this is still an open design element.

    Make yourself a dummy tower the height of the housing. Park this far away form the other parts during printing.
    This makes sure the layers don't remain soft and curl.

    But start with the groove. I put a 2mm core in the tube and chucked it in a cordless drill.
    You have to manage the free end while running the drill.
    A 1" PVC tube or alike will make sure it stays straight. Just clamp it down to something.
    I used the modified nickel to carve the groove on a slow-medium drill-speed.
    The diagram above is also trying to show the leading edge of the cutter.
    The idea is to be perpendicular to the tube to start a good cut.

    You can use any metal approximately 2mm thick. I used the nickel since it is somewhat universal and cheap.
    I can even see aluminum working just as well. The idea is a really sharp edge less than 90 degrees.
    A little additional work will get you a simpler tool, but that will limit others again.
    I will post up the idea at some point of how to make the tool easier to use.

    You can do this with a hobby file set but I suggest a cut-off wheel for a Dremel tool.
    Grind until it is square, flat, and sharp.
    Attached Files Attached Files

  4. #14
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    Jul 2017
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    JT- the nozzle is great, I have many of them, for what reason, no clue as I can only use 2 but I can tell you, I have had ZERO issues with them. It works flawlessly. I honestly cant wait to try the new one with the fitting.

  5. #15
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    Nov 2016
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    I have tested these parts in PLA.
    Someone let me know if all this goes together in ABS if you get the opportunity.
    I ran these using Left/PLA/200um/Strong/Cross/Supports off/Sidewalks off (lp12100)


    I put everything on one plate. Feel free to re-organize in Meshmixer. (Ctrl-a > upper case Y to separate parts in MM)
    Note the orientation shown is for a left extruder.
    Turn 180 degrees about Z for using the right side extruder.
    If you isolate parts, add the cooling tower.
    This makes a huge difference in the stability of the fine details.

    I experience a lot of fit-variation based on filament manufacturer.
    I choose a particularly "wet" material to test this.
    It all went together as expected right off the build plate.

    Todo: 4mm tube trim guide.

    - - - - - - - - - -


    3-color washers:


    ...and I learned of a real bug in the FW (3DS FW!)

    When you are printing with the right nozzle > set Pause > (change out your filament color; leave the nozzle in place) > Resume.

    Thought that was interesting.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Below is the filament turd left behind when resuming a pause.
    Now you know why I say that you can change filament and have it take effect instantly.
    This makes the pause/resume technique for changing filament a lot more useful.
    Not to mention the reduced risk of damaging tubing and fittings.

    From gray back to transparent red. I need to see what I can do on the driver end.

    Last edited by TommyDee; 05-15-2018 at 09:14 PM.

  6. #16
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    Thanks for sharing, TD.
    I'm still missing something... Do you use the steel/aluminum nozzle from a Cube3 cartridge inside the 'hotend core' part? If so, do you discard the press-on washer/nut thingy the original spring sits on? If not, what do you use for the nozzle?

    Also, to my blurry eyes the 'zero_hotend_core' part looks the same as the part in the front-right corner of the 'CFDMP_zero_nozzle_set' drawing. How does it differ?

    I gather you printed your nozzle parts in PLA, so it's ok printing PLA but not ABS. Have you tried making it in ABS? I wonder if the Eko PETG would stand up to printing ABS, since it prints at about the same temperature.

    Oh, yeah - I'd like to know how you designed the threads. What design program(s) do you like?

  7. #17
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    Nov 2016
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    Thanks for keeping me on my toes, John.

    Yes, we still need the stock cartridge parts. The beauty of this is that we get to use yet another of the original parts <<== cheesy smile

    The idea is that you use the stock aluminum nozzle; the stock spring *; a 42mm length of the stock 2.8mm OD tubing **.
    * the pen spring in the video is optional. The stock spring is recommended. You maintain the push-nut regardless of solutions.
    ** You can salvage the short length needed from the original caterpillar track in the few places that are not encumbered during the manufacturing process.
    A better source is the "drift tube" at the input end of the driver mechanism.
    Remember to check and set the push nut on the nozzle.
    The above plate of 3D Print Parts is all you need; blow away the earlier versions.
    4mm tubing. I'd say 1/2 meter minimum but some will argue that. I've run short tubes but that could torque on the X-motion.
    Not all 4mm OD and 2MM ID tubing is created equal! I have tried many and the prognosis is poor. TEST YOUR 4MM PTFE TUBING!
    Drive a length of filament through the mechanism... do it twice for good measure.
    Now feed that through your 500mm long 4mm tubing. If it hangs up at all, I consider it suspect!
    500mm of tubing considers a fitting right on the driver mechanism.

    For the circular clip that fits in the 4mm-tube-groove I used the larger tube provided in the stock cartridge above the driver mechanism.
    Important and not clearly covered is that the head of the groove in the 4mm tube (the furthest measurement) is 7mm from the end.
    The groove width can be anywhere from 1.6-2mm. 2mm is the thickness of a nickel at the rim.

    Included is a tube measure to properly size the remaining tube within the nozzle housing and core.
    Just cut the tube with a sharp hobby blade on the outsides of the tool.
    Make sure it is as virgin as you can get it. You should be able to run a 2mm wire right through it without restriction.

    I have tested PLA printing of these types of parts and successful printing with them of PLA. This means the temps are managed at the 230 degree range.
    Elongation is a symptom of overheating in this solution. The 3 through hole slots on the periphery are an attempt to manage even elongation rather then curling to the start/stop seam's direction. one qualifying warning worth while; DO NOT REMOVE THE HOUSING WHILE HOT! There is a reason for this. When this setup is in place, the spring is not on the base of the housing. It is pushing on the heater seat and nozzle. When you release the housing, the spring pushes the push-nut against the plastic where it is warmest. I don't ABS to test but I would sure recommend ABS nozzle housings for ABS or PETG printing. PETG data would also be good!

    Check push-nut position on nozzle with the Tool (link coming)
    Push 42mm length of 2.8mm OD tube into cleaned nozzle (it needs to fully seat; heat carefully if needed).
    Add spring of choice
    Push the 2.8mm tube into the Core.
    Add the pre-assembly of the Tube-Nut w/ tube and circlet seated in the provided pocket. ***** you are now holding the full train ******
    Now push all that into the housing carefully and turn the Tube-nut
    Then find one of the U-shaped "Clip" and push it into the two side holes of the housing from the side with the flag (tab; whatever...).
    ******* This keeps the assembly from exploding when you remove the Tube-Nut in situ.

    Just place in the printer as per usual and feed it filament.

    When you hit PAUSE during a print, it immediately retracts the print head. From there, hold the Flag on the Nozzle Housing with one finger (you don't want to loose contact with the switch) and turn the Tube-Nut counter-clockwise until free, then pull the tube. You can either snip the melt bulb at the end and drive the filament backwards through the driver, or snip the filament at the driver and drive it out forward. Who cares, just take the time to replace the filament. The only rule is to keep the same chip as it started with or it will err out. But you can remove the chip all you want while paused.
    When the filament is fed about 1" past the end of the tube, you plug the tube and Tube-Nut back in. Make sure the circlip is fully seated! This time when you screw it tight the housing is well supported by a wall in the print head. NOW DRIVE THE FILAMENT UNTIL IT BOTTOMS OUT! <<== Always forget... always!

    I don't normally release something in the middle of development. Okay, maybe we are past the middle, but this is a new deal. So please bare with me while I gather the subject matter.

    My CAD is Creo Parametric. Similar to Solidworks. I have been working with many thread designs to make them printable. I really like this one.

    What'd I forget?

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Can't find the thread, so here is the nozzle depth tool:
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Attached Files Attached Files

  8. #18
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    Thank you for a fine set of instructions, TD. I am printing the parts now, will let you know how it goes.
    BTW, is the rectangular object in the right-rear corner of the set the tube cutting gage, perchance? It kind of has that look...
    (well, more of a triangular prism, I reckon.)

  9. #19
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    Nov 2016
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    I won't get into how it got that shape but yes, it is a simple tool.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    How is the groove making progress going John?
    One tip is that you put the groove anywhere. Trim it back to 7mm after the fact. Just in case that obvious logic escaped anyone
    Tip two... I'm having trouble finding coat hanger wire measuring 2mm. A lot is 2.3mm wire diameters and one particular version was 2mm.
    I use a "drill blank" for my 2mm wire source now. However, there were a couple of salvage pieces in my junk box that would suffice if needed. Just got to be willing to sacrifice a "someday" treasure.
    You will need something to fill the core of the tube when you cinch down on the tubing in the drill chuck. Slightly (very slightly) oversized wire diameter for the core would be advantageous.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    ...and the 7mm trimmer


    - - - - - - - - - -

    And here goes the graphic novel:

    Start by checking all these parts fit without excessive interference.

    The thread should be fairly free running. A few cycles of install and uninstall should solve any serious hang-ups.
    The Core may have a burr at the start/stop near the build plate. Just file it smooth.
    You'll see in my images that my build plate shifted. No issues as yet with this error.
    Also make sure the two holes on the periphery are clear all the way through for the U-Clip.





    Last edited by TommyDee; 05-16-2018 at 06:19 AM.

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  11. #20
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    I've made my parts - with Ekocycle filament. It required a bit of clean-up. Thanks, TD, for choosing a standard thread for the cap! I was able to use a 3/8 bolt to make a thread chaser. :P


    I made the groove-cutter/PTFE-sleeve-thickness-gage from a surplus IKEA tool - exactly 2mm thick. I drilled a 3mm hole, then cut into it with a dremel cutoff disc to make the cutting edge. It worked well - once I got the drill turning the right direction! I happened to have a piece of coat-hanger wire that is exactly 2mm - must be a metric coat hanger. Let me know if you would like me to send you a piece.

    The extra 5mm hole is for cutting the 2mm section of tube for the groove sleeve.

    I had to drill out the inner insert so the 3mm tube would slide thru - it is a bit loose because I had to use a 1/8 bit (3.17mm). It's hard to find small metric bits around here.

    Thanks for the nifty design! I'm looking forward to my first multi-color print - once I come to grips with disabling a working cartridge to get the nozzle. (You ARE working on a way to make replacement nozzles, right!??!) ;o)

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