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  1. #21
    3D Printer God(dess)
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    Consider the replacement cost for nozzles around $50 :|

    If you take care of them, you actually get pretty good mileage out of them.

    The small tube should be a bit snug in the core. That will keep it from pulling out.
    So far it has stayed in place very well. Not even a hint of pulling with the filament.
    Let us know how a loose fit works out.

    LOVE THE TOOL! ... yes, that's the obvious way to do this. Teflon does cut easily once you get a bite on it.
    And as long as you have everything stable while rotating the drill, which is the real trick.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Also let me know how you like the finger grip treatment on the tube nut.

  2. #22
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    Fabulous. Tom, just awesome. have yet to have 1 "screw-up" with the nozzle using the actual PC4M5 and this can only be better. CAnt wait till I can get my started and use.
    JT, nice use of junk tool. I hope I have one lying around that I can use but if not, will use the trusty lathe.
    https://www.harborfreight.com/high-s...-pc-61526.html --metric assortment pack of drills, has 2mm and 3mm bits and cheap!
    Last edited by ztoddman1; 05-17-2018 at 01:40 PM.

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by ztoddman1 View Post
    https://www.harborfreight.com/high-s...-pc-61526.html --metric assortment pack of drills, has 2mm and 3mm bits and cheap!
    Thank you!! I'm on my way to HF...
    Funny thing, I searched their website but did not find these bits - only bigger ones.

  4. #24
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    Never takes much of an excuse to make it to HF.
    I often find myself there going "now what did I really need?".

    McMaster-Carr is my favorite site. I can get 5" blanks in small increments. I need to get 2.05 and 2.1.

    If you have a lathe, use it. So much easier! I've been working on this tool for a while for those without.
    I just couldn't find a common household source for the material. At 5 cents, this seemed a good candidate.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Alright, have a look:

    nonut.PNG
    nononut.PNG

    - - - - - - - - - -

    (for posterity; stock tube length is 98-99mm)
    The stock tube should feel somewhere between snug to a tight fit in the bulkhead.
    I drill the bulkhead through with a 2.8mm drill bit (also #35 or 7/64th").

    Please consider this the "Back to Basics" solution.
    The full concept does have one flaw but I suspect it will be okay either way.
    Do you know what flaw I'm talking about?
    Anyway, this can taken to many other levels.

    Pro's:
    * Fully compatible with stock cartridges.
    * Without the barrel nut in the mechanism allows complete dismantling to reload the stock spool. This is the reason for the snug fit in the bulkhead piece.
    * No more wear of tubing or fitting breakage, or need for fittings.
    * Easily adapt external spools on their own supports or flanged-cartridge-face-modification-add-on. Just zip off the bottom of the cartridge cover.

    Con's:
    * Requires a DIY grooving means. Accomplish this, then this is for you.
    * Still requires a good quality 4mm Teflon tube source. Not as easy as it should be. A lot of undersized stuff simply plugs up during printing. (Where's my sample, Bo?)
    * Does require both cartridge shell halves to fully engage the bulkhead.
    * Requires some demolition knowledge to reliably opening this stubborn clam. This depends on the final solution chosen.

  5. #25
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    Fantastic! I'm off to print mine now. Oh... I don't have a print file, yet!!



    And, no, I don't know what flaw you might be thinking of.

    FWIW, here's one way to lose the outer cover, if you choose to use an external spool.

    IMG_5209.jpg

    IMG_5207.jpg

    (I'm not connected up because I've been using this hub to measure extrusion rates and other M-code actions. Obviously, if you keep the stock bowden 'snake' no mods are needed.)

    I've learned a fairly painless way to open the cartridge. It involves using the edge of your hand to moosh the side in along with a tab of rolled up paper towel to keep the other side from re-engaging. Would a video be useful?
    Last edited by JohnTee; 05-22-2018 at 04:03 AM.

  6. #26
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    Thanks JT.

    There are so many options at this point. I was after an easier way to remove the stock spool for refilling. By removing the barrel nut, it makes it super-easy. No stressing the tube either. Let's see how long it lasts. If I do this every 2/3lb, I'm already miles ahead. Nice thing is, they are still tough enough to remain portable.

    And someone once posted the green phallic on the side of a cartridge case. Certainly a way to distribute the load a little. This too is a simple compact way to mount a 3rd party spool.

    I do have half-covers which work nice for external spool options. Having only the upper half helps a lot in dismantling. I do add one step, and that is to release those 4 inner tabs manually. I can do the whole thing by hand except that. I'm not quite willing to test the resolve of the cover's hooks.

    For cases that have busted clips, I have a solution for that on board somewhere too. I'll revisit that though since improvements have been made.

    Oh, if all you have is a pair of cartridges, then you only have two lengths of heavy tubing. Cutting some 8mm off will reduce the effective standoff function that it employs.

    Still finalizing the two parts... Will post them up soon.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Poq...ew?usp=sharing

    Remember to turn them with the "top of the egg" of the oblong holes pointing towards the extruder you are using.
    Default is for left extruder. Rotate 180/Z for right side extruder.

    You can take the shield apart in Meshmixer if you really must.

    The print is about 1 hour for both pieces if you use lp12100 - 200um/strong/cross/no support/no sidewalk

    - - - - - - - - - -

    b2b.PNG
    yea.PNG

    Now to find another matched pair of nozzles.

    hmmm...
    This should make for a nice solution for the super-sealed Inf Rinse case.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Do any of you have this particular fitting?
    It is a PC4-M6 with a through hole of 4mm.

    Interesting concept... What if we allow the tube to groove if we never need to remove it from the fitting?

    pc4thru-m6.PNG

    - - - - - - - - - -

    b2b-1.PNG
    b2b-2.PNG

    Alternate grooving tool

    https://drive.google.com/open?id=1zD...ab4TEn3VyJu3MF

    - - - - - - - - - -

    I'm liking this secondary option too. Super simple this time but you do need the special fittings.

    b2b_m6.PNG

    The nozzle end w/ M6:
    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1VE9...ew?usp=sharing

    Fitting link on ebay today:
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/3D-Printer-...EAAOSwqYZZuOBI
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/10x-3D-Prin...QAAOSw1R1auz9n

    I've been wondering just were these would end up finding a place in the 3D Printing toolbox.
    Last edited by TommyDee; 05-22-2018 at 10:11 PM.

  7. #27
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    Yet again, fabulous work. What can we come up with using just the gear drive instead of the clear plastic shell? Was trying to think of something to use so someone wouldn't have to drill and tap it for the fittings. Maybe incorporate the your new design with one clip on drive mechanisms of a few months ago. That has yet to fail me.

  8. #28
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    I am all for someone coming up with a good idea.

    B2B is aimed at all those people hacking the heck out of stock carts.
    Everywhere I look someone has part of a solution.
    What I am working on is to try and maximize a "3DS Cube 3 Hardware Toolkit"... and to see what the minimal investment comes to.
    One missing element is the "replacement clamp" when the stock clamp wings break. That one is easy. I'll get to that next.

    It's certainly not like I need more solutions but I well understand just how bad stock cartridges can be.
    Getting someone rolling quickly with a little DIY foresight may just increase our community in coming "days".
    You know as well as anyone just how addicting this little jewel is. I still prefer this to trying to dial in recipes.

    Of course, I have to remind that I have less confidence that this is ABS compatible. It should work, yes, but it may fussier.

    ...and of course I have a personal interest in this. Notice I am able to come up with printable solutions much quicker.
    Having a little time on my hands helps, but also the fact that I've pretty much got this printer's number.
    Designing good prints that require minimal to no post-processing steps is not a simple feat!

    On that note, and as a design note... NO NOT ALL M6 FITTINGS ARE CREATED EQUAL!
    It seems China produced multi-millions of PC4-M6 brass fittings that do not have a compliant M6 thread.
    This thread will not work in my design... on purpose!
    Throw them out, they are useless unless you can force them into something metal.

    notm6.PNG

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Maybe they be turned down to M5x0.8

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Retro! Anyone got a fork?

    retro.PNG

  9. #29
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    What about us poor mortals without lathes!

    I'd love to get up to this, but dunno how to work the PFTE!

    You guys should do a run of several hundred units

    I'd be up for a few!

  10. #30
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    No lathe, Bo. This last one just require the through hole fittings and tubing. And a DIY tool is quite doable for the groove.

    Send me some of that blue super tube and I'll set you up.

 

 

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