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Thread: Universal Hub

  1. #1
    3D Printer God(dess)
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    Post Universal Hub

    This Universal Hub has been a Back to Basics endeavor.
    Change the way you print with the Cube 3.

    B2B.PNG

    A little patience and a lot of perseverance you too can fundamentally change the way you interact with your printer.
    This setup assures the entire path of bowden journey will have a 2mm diameter clearance from the driver to the nozzle.
    Follow the threads and discussions to find all the little secrets this little printer has given up to me over the past 2 years.
    Please feel free to comment or ask questions about anything I've missed or may have gotten buried.

    Consolidated file sets: added 7/15/18
    HOTEND PARTS (ABS recommended)
    BOWDEN TUBE PARTS (PLA recommended)
    BULKHEAD PARTS (no material preference)
    pre-configured .CUBE3 file for the hotend set
    Groove cutter set

    I've mod'd cartridge cases similar to this before. It makes for a cartridge that is locked to the chip for material type, obviously.
    But for my printers, this gives me easy access to external spools or the internal filament pre-wound.

    The real reason for this solution is not to thwart all the other hub developments that have gone on.
    I am finding that more and more people just want to get the stock cartridge to work for them!

    All this extra curricular activity to make printed hubs, go to the store for hardware, ordering fittings and tubing that may or may not work...
    ...just doesn't make sense when the printer you have right there in front of you won't print because you have a crap cartridge!

    For the most part, I cannot make a reliable fix without printing something. In this sense, I am hoping to minimize the 3D printing required.

    If someone lucked out and the Bowden tube is functional, hopefully it will go long enough to print the minimal requirement.
    KISS cart bulkhead, PLA nozzle, nozzle core, and the keeper nuts. That and 4mm OD tubing (~20").

    Some careful attention to instructions and 3D System Cube 3 Cart Cursing will reduce to a simmer.

    Still need to come up with a grooving solution, but headway is being made. That solution will be posted here as well.

    BTW: I rip'd the smiley face cut from a YouTube video. I really like it better than the truncating I've done before just on looks. Either one works great. @19:10 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BNjX6FZ0UaI&t=260s

    universal_hub.PNG

    Thanks Alex, for the test sample of the Capricorn tubing. I'll run the dark blue one on this setup.

    This is the result from this newly rebuilt cartridge:
    nearperfect.PNG

    And considering I can never find this thread when I look for it:
    http://www.print3dforum.com/showthre...he-KISS-Method!!
    This was the impetus for the bulkhead that started this whole mess.
    Thanks Alex. great idea

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Making progress on the groove tool.
    Cutting blade for under a buck...

    groove_cutter.PNG

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Current kit list: Groove'r and trim'r.
    Requires eyeglasses tool kit (mini-screw driver) and an electric drill.
    & Patience.


    kit.PNG

    - - - - - - - - - -

    First release...
    Groove Tool <<== link

    Set up for left side printing. I've included the STL and the .cube3 files.
    Use Meshmixer to eliminate files you don't want or need.

    Right side printing; rotate the STL file 180 degrees (Z) in Cube Print 4.03.

    Included are two screwdriver holders.
    The eyeglasses screwdriver shown above, and also an optional jeweler's screwdriver kit, small blade adapter.

    groovekitplate.PNG

    Second release...
    Groove Tool <<== link
    Last edited by TommyDee; 08-21-2018 at 10:02 PM.

  2. Thanks bolsoncerrado, ztoddman1, bobskinner thanked for this post
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  3. #2
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    Im not sure what I'm seein in the last updates but I like it lol

  4. #3
    3D Printer God(dess)
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    Movie to follow...

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  6. #4
    3D Printer Noob
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    I do not understand
    what that is?

  7. #5
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    Nice Tommy! I like. Great creative mind. Sad thing, I had 2 of these in a box that somehow got tossed! GGrrrrr.

    slx612 go to this thread, it goes with this wonderful modification- http://www.print3dforum.com/showthre...-fitting-Bonus

  8. #6
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    Okay, I do not want to change anything on my printer. The modification that I made works very well

  9. #7
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    If nothing else, Todd, you can sharpen the end of a coat hanger wire.
    It is quite forgiving.

    slx612... this is a solution looking for a problem
    Not really, this is to eliminate the tube fittings.

  10. #8
    Regular 3D Printer
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    make a video

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  12. #9
    3D Printer God(dess)
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    Workin' on it!

    - - - - - - - - - -

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/jSHUNpJ42GGqJptT8

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/jSHUNpJ42GGqJptT8

    You asked!

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Pay attention to the beginning of the video to show how easy these should mate.
    the setup gave me trouble in the sample cuts. Below is better detail.

    I went back and adjusted the depth of the Walgreen's eyeglass screwdriver blade.
    The previous tubing was a bit thicker.
    Anyway, this is what you are looking for:

    s1.PNG

    ...rough on the bottom is okay... Desired depth is ~1/2mm.
    Meh... It's a toss up between how strong the remainder is and how delicate the mating operation will be.
    You want the circlip ring to easily slip into the printed knob! ...once they are lined up of course!
    Had a lot of issues in the video obviously.
    ...ONE OF WHICH IS DRILL SPEED! Go SLOW for about 3 seconds is sufficient. Make at least 3 complete revolutions.

    And yes, the ring was getting a bit wonky after all the wrangling. Once complete, they are pretty stiff and stubborn.

    Once the ring is in the groove, it should spin pretty easy with a small gap showing. That is where you stuff the seam on the knob print.

    s2.PNG

    Why the seam limitations? Because it is one of those things that inevitably muck up a good design. Go ahead, clean out the pocket... then you can ignore the seam.
    But seriously, properly cut and mated, this should just slip together. Otherwise this would be pointless.

    It's one of those Zen things... you'll know it when you get there.


    s4.PNG

    - - - - - - - - - -

    BTW: I print all these things in Strong mode. It is more than sufficient.
    I print with a very light tough to the build plate. Try for no elephant foot.
    I also avoid sidewalks simply because they are so hard to remove.
    Supports shouldn't be necessary.
    There is an orientation as there is a blob relief in the critical inner diameters.
    Place that where the layer's start/stop will occur.

    Careful about picking warm parts off the build plate...
    Not because you might burn yourself... Oh ouch!
    But because I've deformed parts trying to remove them from LokBuild.

    So let me know the questions that come up.
    Last edited by TommyDee; 06-14-2018 at 04:45 AM.

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  14. #10
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    Last edited by slx612; 06-14-2018 at 11:27 AM.

 

 

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