Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  0
Dislikes Dislikes:  0
Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 21 to 28 of 28
  1. #21
    3D Printer Noob
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Posts
    12
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by daf View Post
    Mark
    have you read this thread ?
    can't connect to the printer
    Yeah, I have read it and still get "Failed to establish connection with the printer". I have tried lots of port speeds (baud rates) including AUTO which tries some on its own. I also have verified that I have the latest RUMBA driver for Windows. I have also opened the bottom panel on the printer and nothing appears to be loose. The printer does show up immediately in the "Devices and Printer" panel under Windows when the 3D printer is powered on and disappears when it is turned off. So I know that communication/detection works at some level. Yet full communication (and table motion) no longer happens (as it did once before I tore into adjusting the extruder feed). Can anyone advise the other settings besides baud rate? Partity, Flow Control, etc.?

  2. #22
    3D Printer Noob
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Posts
    15
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Mark View Post
    Yeah, I have read it and still get "Failed to establish connection with the printer". I have tried lots of port speeds (baud rates) including AUTO which tries some on its own. I also have verified that I have the latest RUMBA driver for Windows. I have also opened the bottom panel on the printer and nothing appears to be loose. The printer does show up immediately in the "Devices and Printer" panel under Windows when the 3D printer is powered on and disappears when it is turned off. So I know that communication/detection works at some level. Yet full communication (and table motion) no longer happens (as it did once before I tore into adjusting the extruder feed). Can anyone advise the other settings besides baud rate? Partity, Flow Control, etc.?
    You could try with a different computer, then you might know whether to blame the computer or the printer/cable.

  3. #23
    3D Printer Noob
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Posts
    12
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by aleb View Post
    You could try with a different computer, then you might know whether to blame the computer or the printer/cable.
    Already tried another computer (Windows 7 laptop) and another cable which I know works. So neither of them is the culprit.

  4. #24
    3D Printer Noob
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Posts
    1
    Post Thanks / Like
    does any one know why my rapidelite 200 always starts the print in the left hand front corner . is there settings on how to get it to start the print in the middle of the heat bed . Please help a pure novice i have been trying for days to work it out.

  5. #25
    Expert 3D Printer
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Posts
    305
    Post Thanks / Like
    Hoblin,
    That depends on the slicer software that you use.
    All of the softwares that I've seen so far allow you to specify initial gcode instructions before starts printing.
    For example: G1 X95 Y95 Z40
    This will place the head at an average center and 4cm high, enough room to clean the head while heating up.
    Still I prefer the head to be at the X0 Y0.

    Another "beginner" suggestion is to start new forum thread with your question, so that the original subject does not get lost and you get a proper answer from other members
    Last edited by Joao; 01-05-2015 at 08:20 PM.

  6. #26
    3D Printer Noob
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Posts
    2
    Post Thanks / Like
    Hi!

    I used the previously mentioned settings, but when I try to print it seems that not enough filament comes out of the nozzle, resulting to:
    1. Needing to actually manually push it in order to make something solid,
    2. Not sticking to the bed for the first layer (so if we don't push it, then it prints in the air, even if it is just 1mm above the bed)

    Any suggestions?

  7. #27
    Regular 3D Printer
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Pennsylvania, USA
    Posts
    150
    Post Thanks / Like
    Aeternia,

    When your printer is at Z home, it should be within a paper thickness away from the bed at any and all X,Y positions
    See first post in this topic
    http://www.print3dforum.com/showthre...p-the-Hardware

  8. #28
    3D Printer Noob
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Posts
    2
    Post Thanks / Like
    Hey, thanks, I finally managed to calibrate the Z-Axis properly. However, when I got to print, my first print at a 0.5 shell object was fine. But when I tried to print something with a thicker shell I noticed that the filament was overflowing. Tried to reduce the amount of filament to 10%, but that didn't help either. What else should I tweak?

    2015-04-02 15.18.03 copy.jpg

 

 

Similar Threads

  1. Slic3r Settings for Rapide Lite
    By JonatanJacobsson in forum 3D Software
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 01-26-2015, 08:45 AM
  2. AstroPrint settings for Rapide Lite 200 (using PLA)
    By bolsoncerrado in forum 3D Software
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 01-22-2015, 01:47 PM
  3. Repetier settings from Rapide Lite
    By Flenders in forum 3D Software
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 01-06-2015, 08:55 PM
  4. 3D Software settings for Rapide Lite
    By bolsoncerrado in forum Rapide Lite 3D Printers
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 12-15-2014, 09:49 AM
  5. Cura settings From Rapide Lite
    By daf in forum Rapide Lite 3D Printers
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 12-12-2014, 03:57 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •