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  1. #21
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    @TommyDee, I am looking to buy some PETG and I wonder if you have found a preferred brand that always gives you good results. Or better than other brands. I gather there are wide differences between filament manufacturers and the additives they use.

    Also, can I use it without the LokBuild? I normally use the purple glue stick but I've read that PETG sticks well to blue painter's tape.
    Last edited by jssamp; 11-12-2022 at 11:38 PM.

  2. #22
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    PETG loves the Cube-Glue! That on LokBuild and insane stick. Tapes will allow PETG to curl if it has the tendency. I have a black Amazon-branded PETG that is a bit 'curly'. I do use a white PETG by NovaMaker that has been consistent and remains reasonably flat. Sticks great to my concoction.

  3. #23
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    Is Cube-Glue still for sale with the Cube being D/C'd? Does it list the ingredients so we might find a generic or is it as secret as the gcode? I am looking at getting some orange, black and clear PETG. I'm making some tool cases, for router and drill bits, taps and dies, and the sort. I think I will get the LokBuild and look for Cube-Glue. You give it such high praise, how could I go wrong?

    From reading this thread, I think I understand that I just load my model in Cube Print and print it to the offline Ekocycle. Then edit the saved file with buddy's editor, changing the printer to Cube3 v1.14b, and leave the temp and extruder settings as they are for the Ekocycle. Generate a cube3 file. Then print it. Do I have that right?

    I expect I will have to experiment a little bit, My results might not be the same as yours exactly, but I'd much rather start with a boost from you than from square one.

  4. #24
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    That's what I am here for; Shortcut TommyDee.

    I stocked up on the cube glue. I suspect it is stick glue highly diluted with water. It is turning back to gel and it easily reverts back to liquid adding 4x the weight in water. Recharging the glue on the LokBuild means you rarely use any glue. That is because the glue would rather stick to the LokBuild than your part.

    I don't know what the magic is but its held ABS stronger than the bond holding against layer separation. I swear by this combination.

    You're in my neighborhood. Let me know when you get the LokBuild and we can arrange getting you some glue to try out.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    A couple of advised changes from EkoCycle to Cube3;

    1: Anything above 250C changed to 250C; there is no need to cook the PETG as this risks burning carbon in the tip.
    2: Change the pressure value of the first line [layer 1 wall] to "40" and if present on line 2 [infill], "29" to "32"

    Ekocycle prints start with a larger gap than Cube3 so this makes up for it. This way your PLA prints don't require re-gapping.

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  6. #25
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    so cool

  7. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by TommyDee View Post
    That's what I am here for; Shortcut TommyDee.

    I stocked up on the cube glue. I suspect it is stick glue highly diluted with water. It is turning back to gel and it easily reverts back to liquid adding 4x the weight in water. Recharging the glue on the LokBuild means you rarely use any glue. That is because the glue would rather stick to the LokBuild than your part.

    I don't know what the magic is but its held ABS stronger than the bond holding against layer separation. I swear by this combination.

    You're in my neighborhood. Let me know when you get the LokBuild and we can arrange getting you some glue to try out.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    A couple of advised changes from EkoCycle to Cube3;

    1: Anything above 250C changed to 250C; there is no need to cook the PETG as this risks burning carbon in the tip.
    2: Change the pressure value of the first line [layer 1 wall] to "40" and if present on line 2 [infill], "29" to "32"

    Ekocycle prints start with a larger gap than Cube3 so this makes up for it. This way your PLA prints don't require re-gapping.
    Thanks for all you do. I will make those changes. I need to learn how to use the script feature in the cube editor. I've just been changing things manually.

    I will take you up on the Cube glue offer. I'm in Corvallis so send me a PM and we can work it out.

    My LokBuild and spool of PETG are scheduled to arrive Monday late. Another question I haven't found an answer for; mixing materials. Have you ever printer PLA on top of PETG? I read of someone using PLA for the first two layers and then using another material that apparently would stick better to PLA than to the unheated bed, but I've never heard anything about PLA and PETG together except that PETG is supposed to be sticky between it's own layers.

    EDIT: It was this post:
    http://www.print3dforum.com/showthread.php/1643-Running-PETG-on-Cube3?p=50535&viewfull=1#post50535

    Last edited by jssamp; 11-14-2022 at 05:59 AM.

  8. #27
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    I do love PETG layer adhesion. I've broken parts across the layers without even a hint between the layers being affected.

    Making a few layers of PETG with the remainder being PLA is possible but it is an effort of 'file-splicing'. The variation in initial Z-offsets might get in the way too.

    Then again, once you learn how to get your builds to stick, then this effort might be moot. I have very little trouble with PLA curling. ABS is still the worst case.

    PM me an address and I'll send you a tube of glue to play with.

  9. #28
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    What I am trying to do with two different materials is simple on it's face. I have made a design for a drill bit case with the sizes of the bits labeled with embossed numbers. The embossing is the top two layers of the file. I made them a separate component of the drill bit holder assembly in fusion and in the saved file they are separate structures so Cube Print lets them be different colors.

    My intent is for the main body to be in orange PETG and the numbers to be printed in white. So I either have to use to spools/nozzles for the colors or switch filament mid print (well, almost at the end really). The white is only for the last two layers and the last two layers are only white, so there is no swapping filament during a layer.

    TLDR: This was just a long way of saying I want to print all PETG with just 2 layers of PLA at the end.

  10. #29
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    I did that trick where the 'top' was the first layer in a print. Made the lettering and linework in one file and the base with the 'inlay' removed as a separate print. That worked pretty well. No blending as nozzle changes tend to do.

    How were you planning to set up the cartridges? Working 2 extruders or swapping filament in mid-print?

  11. #30
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    I have been planning to swap filament mid print. I inserted a delay between the layers to give me time to do the swap. I haven't done a swap mid print before so I had thought to swap out the whole thing. Have another nozzle, tube and extruder all setup with the white filament and swap them all out, only retaining the chip from the first setup. But then I worry about the nozzle being the same length, if not will it be too long and hit the part. So I am trying to adjust two nozzles to match. But then if they match I might as well use both extruders at the same time since I won't suffer the penalties of swapping mid-layer.

    I am probably over thinking this, it's a problem my friends point out often.

 

 

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