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  1. #31
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    I do filament hotswaps using the same nozzle. Using the B2B nozzle, you can unscrew the Bowden tube at the nozzle. I do this during a paused print. No gap issues while never disturbing the nozzle switch in the printhead.

    So is the pause code working? What resumes it?

  2. #32
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    I have the B2B nozzle as well as the M5 PTC style. I switched back to the PTC type recently because of difficulty I was having with grooving the 4mm tube. I meant to get back to it but other things keep popping up.

    What about purging the old color out when you swap the filament in the same nozzle, how do you keep the color from smearing? I am printing white numbers on top of another color case. The numbers would not be easy to read if the colors aren't distinct.

    I haven't got the pause function (M226) figured out yet. I've tried it but got no indication on the touchscreen, the process just stopped, there was no ESC or continue to press. Then the print just stopped, I was back at the main menu screen but the interface was unresponsive. I couldn't even shut it off with the button. I had to remove the power cord. When it powered on again it was at the normal main menu again but now it had the Please wait while printjet cools message at the top.

    I have made a small print file just 4 layers, 2 base layers and the 2 layers that are the numbers, so that I can experiment with the pause command and swapping filament without wasting too much. I hope to learn something about pausing print files that is new that I can contribute to the body of knowledge collected here.

  3. #33
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    I'll be interested to see if you can make M226 work. The system is waiting for a prompt but the software/firmware may not have a hook for that response. This would mean that M226 is not fully implemented in the F/W.

    Doug... Our own 'Doug' is the one making tubes with grooves. I do appreciate the effort required to make a good groove. I have long lost the lathe bit that made those for me. Holler at us Doug!

    Pulling the filament mid-print with B2B using 'pause' removes most of the filament from the nozzle. When the print is 'resumed', it purges before continuing the print. During that purge you can see if all the color has fully swapped. If not, quickly pause again and resume for a second purge. With PLA, I rarely needed a second purge. The good thing is that the resume-purge is a rather lengthy one.

  4. #34
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    I have not found any way to make M226 work yet. I doubt I will give up completely yet but I may put it aside for now and use simpler methods.

    When you pause it are you talking about using G4 Px code or do you wait by the printer and press pause at just the right time? Or a combination of both.

    For my next trick I have edited the gcode at the location of the swap so it will move to the left purge tank then pause with G4 to give me time to press pause on the screen but also not drool on the part. Then after the pause I have inserted a purge with M551 P1600 S60, then clean it up and let it return to start the next layer. I had forgotten about the purge after you pause it.

    On another topic, I measured the one layer thick prints I had after it froze from M226 at about 370 microns. That would be the .25 for the initial layer plus the .12 from my gap gauge. But I have a very smooth bottom surface and a very rough furrowed top surface, making me think I need a larger z gap like you have said before. About .23 is what works for you is it?

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by TommyDee View Post
    I did that trick where the 'top' was the first layer in a print. Made the lettering and linework in one file and the base with the 'inlay' removed as a separate print. That worked pretty well. No blending as nozzle changes tend to do.

    How were you planning to set up the cartridges? Working 2 extruders or swapping filament in mid-print?
    Did I understand this correctly? You printed the inlay first. Left it on the bed then printed another file that was the main body minus the inlay on top of the existing inlay from the first file?

    If that is what you did, it was out of the box for sure. I guess it would depend on the geometry of the inlay. You wouldn't want any of the main body printed inside a closed loop of the inlay. At least I would be worry about the tip hitting the existing material.

    I am about to run my first PETG print. I have made the edits you suggested to extrusion pressures and temperature. I also added my pause and purge between layers for the filament change to PLA at the end and made sure the temp is back down to 220 for it but I left the pressure at 18 it was set for the EKO instead of the 22.5 it gets set at for PLA, hoping it will reduce the stringing between the numbers. So far my digits look like they are cursive from the drooling plastic.

  5. #35
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    I pause using the front panel. I've also preloaded a very long bowden tube with different colors. I haven't tried a pause in the print file.

    I use a very, read: V E R Y light touch with the LokBuild/CubeGlue solution. On the buildplate-side of the print I get very crisp valleys; on the topside - I get smeared-round material from being stirred by a hot nozzle.

    That trick of removing the inlay from the CAD makes sure the printer will draw walls around the inlay. It indexes perfectly and with a good 'stick' to the build-plate, no big deal. And if it does mess up, not a lot of effort expended.

    To be clear - 1 layer inlay using design rules making custom designs. Have you run into my reasoning behind 0.9/1.8mm walls in your design effort?

    Also, have you seen where you can use the CubePro app to preview your print post-slicing to get a preview?

    - - - - - - - - - -

    ...I will add; I use the printer in a room at least 70F. These things like a warm environment for best performance.

  6. #36
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    Walls around the inlay is a good idea. I had thought about having my numbers inset instead of embossed. Maybe I'll experiment with both on just a thin sign type of print.

    I have read your explanation for the 0.9/1.8mm walls. IIRC it is because the extrude width is 0.45mm, the nozzle opening plus a little spread.

    I have used the CubePro app once so far. It was a tempting vision of what could be with full access to the printer, unshackled to the proprietary CubePrint app. I used it to find the layer where my orange PET stopped and my white PLA began. It gave me the Z height so I could find it in the BFB file.

    I put the pause in the print file to give me time to get to the printer and pause it from the touchscreen. This way I don't have to sit by the printer and listen to the noise while it prints. I have thought how it would be cool to have it make some alert sound that we could program with gcode, but that's asking too much.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    PETG sure does look pretty. My first print probably would have been a great success if not for the complication I added to it of changing color and material type mid-print. I must have been too tired last night. Somehow I let one of those M226 codes slip by me and it froze just at the color change. But the rest of it looks good, except for a little elephant foot and the layers not lining up evenly on the vertical sides. Top and bottom layers are great. Just a little fine tuning.

  7. #37
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    Excellent. You could put in some kind of noisy movements to call your attention to the printer. Maybe do 100 moves in and out of the wiper for instance.

    The only limitations I found with PETG is that is makes lousy threads. There is a lot of friction between parts when you use PETG.

    0.9 and 1.8 are values to use to help crowd the walls. Turns out that the slicer uses 0.5/1.0mm to calculate walls. However, it will crowd the two walls closer together in the case of 0.9mm wall thickness. This may or may not work well with lettering.

  8. #38
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    Had too many problems with swapping filament mid-print. So I spent a good part of the afternoon cleaning nozzles and getting hot end adapters fit so that I can have a pair of matching nozzles and just print with both sides.

    It looks like I might have to make a minor adjustment to my printhead alignment. But the right nozzle tip is only higher than the left by very little. I have replaced both of the grub screws (one was missing) and after looking at it, I'm not convinced that they are not the adjusting screws rather than the larger ones up behind the heater block.

    I have done one test print with PLA on PETG using both sides. It was not a success. When I picked it up off the print bed, the PLA numbers jumped off like popcorn. I don't know if that is because of the right nozzle gap being slightly higher or if it is just PLA not sticking to PETG. It's getting to be that time of night when it's best to just go to bed and figure it out tomorrow.

  9. #39
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    The grub screws are used to adjust the print-head but the larger screws are what holds it in place. Process: Loosen the mounting screws; adjust 'level' with grub screws; tighten mounting screws.

    That little bit of a mismatch is what knocks over structures.

    I have never tried to stick PLA to PETG. I suspect the PLA needs to around 240C. Basically, the PLA needs to do a small melt from the PETG. I suspect this is where a much slower velocity (and reduced purge) would make a difference.

  10. #40
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    I have some interesting results from a temp tower I printed yesterday. From 220-250 by 5s, they all had bad strings hanging under the bridges except the 220. So I'm going to print one from 180-225 today. The sticker on the spool says 220-240, the test tower might turn out to be good advice.
    IMG_20221125_101850.jpg

    I have an idea for the PLA text. Instead of printing it entirely on top of the PETG, I could embed a root or anchor structure within the PETG. I'm thinking of a thin rectangular plate below the numbers and connecting all of them. It would be far enough from the top surface of the numbers so that the PETG will print over it up to the edge of the numbers. Then the numbers will continue up beyond the PETG. This way the top layers of PETG will hold on to the PLA. The PLA adheres to the PETG at first. It isn't until the PETG flexes that the PLA breaks away. My hope is that with this method even after the PLA breaks loose, the anchor plate will still be surrounded by the PETG. The only failure mode would be if the top layers of the PETG broke above the PLA. Even if the PLA delaminated, it would still be visible through the holes as if it were an inlay.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    I just got two more spools of PETG in today. Two different brands because I didn't find the two colors I wanted in the same brand. It turns out only one of them is labeled as PETG. The other two (including the one I already had) are PETG-G and PETG Pro. I've tried to find out what these are but it seems that all suffixes after PETG, Pro, G, + or whatever just mean the manufacturer added something to change the properties. They are not standards with a fixed meaning. The orange one I've been using is PETG Pro from Flashforge. Printing temp on the label says 220-240, bed temp 80. It works great for me at 230 and obviously no bed heat but cube glue on LockBuild.

    I'm going to have to test these two new ones to figure out the temperature to use. Hopefully I can find one that works for all of them. But the Real PETG says 220-260, bed 60-80, and turn off the nozzle fan. I'm not worried about the bed temp, I just warm it up with a hot air gun. But I can't seem to find the gcode for the nozzle fan. I know I've seen it somewhere but I don't remember what it was. I know it is M106 But which parameter is for which fan?
    Last edited by jssamp; 11-25-2022 at 08:07 PM.

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