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  1. #11
    Regular 3D Printer
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    Connectors/crimps used:

    Software controlled fan (XH 2.54mm 2-Pin)
    Always on fan (2.54mm Dupdont 2 Pin Connector)

    Unfortunately, I don't have the spare XH 2.54mm crimps.

  2. #12
    Regular 3D Printer
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    @BobenhamHotspur: I think you may salvage the fan. As i can see it in your first picture the path from the (+) connection continues to the inside of the resistor marked with R1. If you solder it carefully you may attach the cable there instead. Of course you will need to secure the wire somewhere closer to the housing, and you will need to prolong the wire.

    Good luck.

  3. #13
    3D Printer Legend
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    @sm0orb - I have already purchased some replacements that will arrive to me on Monday and as I mentioned previously my soldering skills are very low (confirmed by my actual work on this fan!) so I believe I will have better luck in replacing them with the new fans.
    Bodging them to fit is more suited to my skills and as an added bonus (I hope it will be) the new fans put out 3.4 times more air flow (CFM) than the originals, and are quieter as well.
    Last edited by BobenhamHotspur; 01-03-2015 at 10:33 PM.

  4. #14
    Regular 3D Printer
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    Quote Originally Posted by CrazyCoder View Post
    I've checked the DB9 connector and the connectors on the board for continuity using the multimeter and my theory has confirmed. The photo of the PCB above with the red arrows showing the fan connectors is correct.

    So, if you don't want to disassemble and solder DB9, it may be easier to swap the wires at the PCB side. If you have the crimp tool and the spare crimps for two different connector types (very unlikely), you can do it without soldering at all, otherwise you can just cut the wires several cm above the connectors and solder them there (a bit easier than soldering the serial DB9 connector)
    This would be the easiest way I agree I just already had my printer assembled, running, and pretty close to dialed in so did not want to unbolt anything haha. That and I have soldered plenty of connections before much smaller then the db9 pins lol.


    The connectors look basic maybe some place like a hobby RC shop has something(probably not but worth a try)

  5. #15
    Regular 3D Printer
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    I've swapped the fans at the PCB side, they now work as designed. Servo plug was crimped from scratch. I had some XH wires with plugs so I soldered them and inserted into the existing connector:

    DSC01182.jpg

  6. #16
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    Can anyone of you post the WRONG and the CORRECT (final) wiring pictures so we can spot the difference quicker in our printers?

    Thanks!!

  7. #17
    Regular 3D Printer
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    Quote Originally Posted by bolsoncerrado View Post
    Can anyone of you post the WRONG and the CORRECT (final) wiring pictures so we can spot the difference quicker in our printers?

    Thanks!!
    @grobbins has them in the first post.

    Incorrect (white, green, black, red):



    Correct (red, black, green, white):


  8. #18
    Regular 3D Printer
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    Hey Everyone
    I had fans the wrong way too ....but instead of rewiring and re-soldering( which is not a problem, I do electronics)
    I found it way easier to just swap the fans in the extruder ...... worked for me !!!!

  9. #19
    3D Printer Noob
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    Have we seen anyone say...

    1) ... "My fans are wired correctly, they're already red,black,green,white." This would indicate that there are some wired one way, and others wired the other way. So far I've only seen pics of what some folks are saying is "wrong." But if 100% of printers are "wrong," maybe that's actually "right."

    2) ... "Mine were wrong and I had prints like <this>. Now that I've reversed the wires, my prints now look like <this> which is obviously better."

    I only ask because, with the exception of some minor adhesion issues that I've worked out, and some extruder clunking, which I've also worked out (fingers crossed) I don't know how badly I want to swap the fans. Certainly no offense intended, but I guess I'm not yet convinced of the wrongness of the wiring.

  10. #20
    Regular 3D Printer
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    If you turn on and connect your printer, see which fan comes on and stays on if its the one sending air to the extruder
    then your fine nothing to change.
    if the fan that's on all the time is the one sending air through the chute under the whole unit, this is the fan that is supposed to stay off until software tells it to come on, after the initial layers have stuck to the bed. Then they are incorrect and need to be switched.
    I have not touched my wiring I pulled the extruder down and swapped the actual fan units ...much easier and works as I tested it.
    So there is a need to have the right fan doing the right thing at the right time.

 

 

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