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  1. #11
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    Tommy- Good stuff, I'll have to read through all that again when I have my head out of my ass...embly code.

    Ya I know there's a lot I've missed over the years, I really should read up on all the software stuff.... but then I learned how to make PCBs and that seems a lot more fun.

    I got my Ender 3, and it really revitalized my interest in 3D printing. So much so, that I decided to make my CubePro a Marlin based printer too. I tried the software modification game for a while, but ultimately it comes down to the community. There's a much bigger Marlin community than one centered around Cube 3 hacking. Don't get me wrong, the software work to reset the filament EPROMS and to get it working with Cura is awesome ... just not my bag anymore .

    The software hacking method is and will continue to be the best option for most people. Some other people will, like you so elegantly put it, want to make a frankenquub. My project shoots for the people in-between; People that can't/don't want to solder ... but are willing to sort through a few bugs. You could try out this board, and if you don't like it ... put the old board back in

    Back to my project. I ran the motors for the first time with my controller ... they hold! ... that's all I did, applied a small amount of holding current.
    I don't have heatsinks (should be coming tomorrow or Friday) so I didn't want to push the stepper boards.

    I then took out all my modifications and tried to probe out the communication between the original controller board and the extruder control board... but currently, my CubePro is quite naked. The following image might be NSFW ... if you work at a 3D Systems assembly factory.
    IMG_20190212_134533747_HDR (2).jpg


    I started by running a simple print, but the printer quickly generated an error; the chamber wasn't getting to temp like it should. Next, I tried to put the heater and the sensor in a little box ... still no dice. SO ... I'll likely need to spoof the temperature reading with my bench power supply, and make the printer think it's up to temp. Then I should be able to get some better communication readings on the scope. I'll post details on all that when I figure something out. I really don't want to re-assemble the printer ... thankfully my friend here in town has another CubePro I can borrow. They just take up so much room!

    And thanks for the support Walrus, coo coo ca choo.
    Last edited by ryanhatfield; 02-14-2019 at 10:23 AM. Reason: fix image upload

  2. #12
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    Well, that nasty little temp bug is easily squashed with a quick edit. But I hear you. Replace the sensor with a fixed impedance. I'd probably run the Pro open too.

    Love your design philosophy. People here are all about making groundbreaking changes with a butter knife.

    The coding is pretty straight forward; drag/tweak/drop/printing. Utilization of these printers is ultimately for my business. I love the accuracy that the cubify prints deliver with very repeatable results and no recipe work. Very little has changed in 3DS cubify philosophy either. Their old manuals would teach a few people some new tricks about 3D printing even today. So the only question left, is this just a convenient platform, or is this a doner worthy of the effort over others platforms?

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Do the skins act as a cross-brace?

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by TommyDee View Post
    Well, that nasty little temp bug is easily squashed with a quick edit.
    It wasn't a bug really ... the printer was out of it's case so the heater was trying to heat the room ... also it was unplugged :P

    Quote Originally Posted by TommyDee View Post
    Replace the sensor with a fixed impedance.

    the board is a little more complicated than just a thermistor
    IMG_20190214_001001840.jpg


    It's just an opamp, here's the datasheet and I measured it, then went and ran a simulation here: http://everycircuit.com/circuit/5666002192039936
    IMG_20190214_001019096.jpg

    Basically it's using 12v across the thermistor, then using the opamp to output between 800mv at room temp up to as high as 3.3v at really high temps.
    I'm not sure, are thermistors more accurate at higher voltages? I'm guessing this puts it right in the PIC32's ADC voltage range.

    Quote Originally Posted by TommyDee View Post
    Do the skins act as a cross-brace?
    I'm sure the enclosure helps (very sturdy stuff) but the bare frame feels sturdy without it. The printer mounts inside the case to 4 standoffs on the bottom, and 6 points on the upper, outer walls.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Don't quote me on this, but I think there's a thin layer of aluminum sheet on the inner side of the wall material .. Built like a tank.
    IMG_20190214_011423183 (1).jpg
    Last edited by ryanhatfield; 02-14-2019 at 10:30 AM. Reason: fix missing images

  4. #14
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    You're pix are not showing up but I follow. If you have a target voltage to pass through, you can tap a divider pair of resistors across the source voltage; or just pull it high if that does not set off other internal alarms.

    I understood on the issue for sure about the room not warming up enough to overcome the sensor... "bug" was just a metaphor for the removed case error one would expect the machine to complain about... after thinking about it a moment.
    What I was saying is that you can turn off the environment gcode in the cubepro file in less than 20 seconds. I'm pretty sure it is the BFB code M404(?) in the print file that manages the controlled temperature in the chamber. If it is not initiated, it should not be reading the sensor. Of course, they could have bricked that with some other low level F/W code that always runs. When are you ditching the CubePro s/w?

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Love the circuit thingy!

  5. #15
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    really weird ... the images were showing up for me before. I went back and added pictures to other posts.

  6. #16
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    It happens I see them now.

  7. #17
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    Now this makes me recall I got a deal on a CubeX Duo and makes me wonder if the only difference with a CubePro Duo is the kind of case it comes with. THe barebones seem identical...

  8. #18
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  9. #19
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    Never saw it! Could have been a bidding war though.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    So I have a question... heated bed, okay, but... how is the chamber temp kept elevated?

    What's the max temp on the CubePro heated bed?

    - - - - - - - - - -

    You know I'll end up with one someday

    Quote Originally Posted by bolsoncerrado View Post

  10. #20
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    There's no heated bed, it's a heated chamber.

    It's an AC heater with a 24v DC fan. I'm not sure the max temp, the would be in the individual material profiles I think.
    IMG_20190212_134533747_HDR (3).jpg
    Last edited by ryanhatfield; 02-16-2019 at 08:08 AM.

 

 

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