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  1. #11
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    03062019_3dbenchy_first print.PNG

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    Now I am understanding all the noise in the data for these files.
    The plastic deposition is seriously targeted to maintain integrity to size.
    Quantized little pellets is plastic to strengthen in 3 dimensions.
    3DBenchy went through all the modes. I'd say it came out pretty nice.

    The bed doesn't stick worth beans! And I'm not going to hack at it with sandpaper.
    It does want a dose of heatgun though. That is a huge thermal mass to bring up to temp.
    It is easy to put a re-heater pad under that plate. That's a simple remotely ministered operation.

    I'm using the blue tape from hell and water down CubeGlue. Watered down is 4 parts water to 1 part glue.
    Careful for the hole in the sponge! A little goes a long way!

  2. #12
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    Wow!

    Besides a couple overhangs and the letters behind it, it came better than the calibration cube, indeed! And 0 lifting on the raft, right?

    I shall test it this afternoon on the buildtak with hairspray and no raft and see what happens hehe

  3. #13
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    Well Im currently printing a 200% sized benchy with buildtak and just hairspray with no raft and after heating the chamber by starting and cancelling the printjob a few times (lame, I know lol) it still does not help and it curls on the front of the boat, but the way it prints is way different than yesterdays so yes, short layer print times makes it behave different.

    Now if only I could turn off those damn FANS lol!!

    On a side now, Im loving the look of the deposited layers so far.

  4. #14
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    When I use this particular blue tape with a light coating of CubeGlue (watered down), the ABS holds like mad! Then you are dependent on the bond of the tape's adhesive. This is where someone suggested Gaffer's tape which has a hold closer to duct tape.

    I also noticed another thing... did you note that we were not given gap gauges?
    Another change they made in 2015 was to no longer support gapping to the label as was the original recommendation for the Cube3.
    Their lack of sticking power to a cold plate and acrylic made 3DS throw up their hands and decide to just stuff the print to the base.
    In the back of the unpacking manual they included a page to be used for gapping! How lame!
    I pulled out my original gap gauge and gapped to the label. Did well for a circular print.
    I added the tape without any clearance adjustments so the tape is acting similarly to a smaller gap.
    Once I get Lokbuild on there, I'll do the same as I do with my Cube3's; large gap and glue slurry.
    A bottle of glue lasts well over a year this way.

  5. #15
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    Large gap?
    Like how large?

  6. #16
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    3 sheets of printer paper

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    03072019_abs200umbenchy.PNG

    Fine detail (wht) v. normal (grn).

    The really fine nozzle is being true to the loop.
    That is a very fragile loop!

  7. #17
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    But those are CubePro?

  8. #18
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    Those are cubepro. The build advanced setting has a checkbox for fine detail.

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    Interesting way that CubePro deals with skin traces...
    It draws a slow outside skin and very fast inner walls.

    And yes, you can choose how many walls you want.

 

 

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