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Thread: CubePro Sagas!

  1. #1
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    Angry CubePro Sagas!

    As with everything new, there is the good, the bad and the ugly.
    This is a place to share the bad and the ugly

    Yesterday I learned the back panel is removable.
    Today I found out that this is a something to be careful of.

    03072019_backdoorcatch.PNG

    - - - - - - - - - -

    A little RTV goes a long way to fixing stupid

    Next challenge... get the right cartridge tray to sit flat on the plate. Someone really messed with the pooch on this one!
    Those are Delrin hinges best I can tell. They have an acrylic hinge pin that can be locked down.
    It is no a simple matter of adding a washer... and the hold down screws are not readily accessible.

    I opted for carefully removing the tray side of the hinge from the floor side mating hinge.
    This is done by removing the large Philips drive screw and lifting on the tab. It is a touch booger to open but the pin will come out.
    I had to slot the two holes nearly .06" (1.5mm) to get it to even attempt to settle correctly.
    I then replaced the screw only to find the washers would drive the tray down again.
    Removed the washers from the 4 screws and the cartridge tray is finally reasonably perpendicular to the floor.
    Last edited by TommyDee; 03-07-2019 at 07:40 PM.

  2. #2
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TommyDee View Post
    As with everything new, there is the good, the bad and the ugly.
    This is a place to share the bad and the ugly

    Yesterday I learned the back panel is removable.
    Today I found out that this is a something to be careful of.

    03072019_backdoorcatch.PNG

    - - - - - - - - - -
    What are we looking at here??


    BTW do you know the top cover can be removed too right?



    Quote Originally Posted by TommyDee View Post

    A little RTV goes a long way to fixing stupid

    Next challenge... get the right cartridge tray to sit flat on the plate. Someone really messed with the pooch on this one!
    Those are Delrin hinges best I can tell. They have an acrylic hinge pin that can be locked down.
    It is no a simple matter of adding a washer... and the hold down screws are not readily accessible.

    I opted for carefully removing the tray side of the hinge from the floor side mating hinge.
    This is done by removing the large Philips drive screw and lifting on the tab. It is a touch booger to open but the pin will come out.
    I had to slot the two holes nearly .06" (1.5mm) to get it to even attempt to settle correctly.
    I then replaced the screw only to find the washers would drive the tray down again.
    Removed the washers from the 4 screws and the cartridge tray is finally reasonably perpendicular to the floor.

    GOt lost on this one too. Pic please?

  3. #3
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    Too late! I'm not taking those apart again!

    Basically, the hole in the hinge that mates to the metal tray needs to be slotted so the tray can be moved up.
    Ditch the stainless steel washers under the 4 short black screws.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    ... what you're looking at is the rear cover removed and the latching pin remained in place. Kind of silly to stick something to paint and expect it to stay.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    With regard to the bay 2 cartridge hinges:

    I slotted the holes on the hinge. But if you want to remove the screws that mount the hinges to the base, you can probably do that too.

    You would remove some of the screws that holds the white plastic base to the standoffs. Just enough to get a wrench on the nuts on the back hinge.
    If you loose the nut, you're going fishing! But this will allow you to put spacers under the hinge and not have to slot the hinge itself, or take the hinge apart.

    Then again, you can probably just remove the hinges all together and use a self tapping screw and a small pilot hole to tap directly into the white plastic plate.

    Removing the whole 9 yards and just fixing a chip to contacts may be the ultimate fix. Then I have a flat surface for any spool holder!

    - - - - - - - - - -

    I need to make a pedestal for this monster machine. Off to get some lumber.

  4. #4
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    As long as you screw it to a wall... lol

  5. #5
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    velcro

  6. #6
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    This sounded like securing a Picasso to a wall using cello tape lol

  7. #7
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    And what's wrong with that? Just a dusty ol' painting!

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Chamber and prints getting too hot! ...for the blue tape that is.
    Works great for Cube3 but the adhesive inside the CubePro chamber just turns to goo.
    Time to commit that new LokBuild surface.

  8. #8
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    IDK if it was coincidence or what but after running the 45min heating file and a half print (I had to alt) the buildtak came out with lots of bubbles that were not there when I applied it so it was basically ruined Perhaps the glue was not as good as lokbuilds but its weird as its supposed to work with heated beds up to 90-100??

  9. #9
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    I've always wondered how they manage the heat with adhesives. I do know that application is 99% of the success. I'll be applying my LokBuild soon to see what happens.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    I mounted the KudoTech LokBuild sheet on the plate today. ...and remembered to lower the plate before running it.

    I'll give the adhesive overnight to cure. I was very careful to remove any possible trapped air.
    If all works out, I'll be able to make an over-sized brim file to print past the extent of the normal operating area.
    Then back to using LokBuild with a glue slurry on the CubePro just like the Cube3's

    Or that's the plan, anyway.

 

 

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