Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  1
Dislikes Dislikes:  0
Results 1 to 3 of 3
  1. #1
    Super Moderator
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Posts
    1,960
    Post Thanks / Like

    CubePro Slicer results

    This is a good place to see how the CubePro slicer functions.

    These are all the same STL with different settings.

    03112019_recubehousings.PNG

    It is very obvious that the shaking of the machine leaves vibration artifacts.
    The best we can do about that is to print closer to the back of the build plate where Z has a bit less vibration.
    I can see where better control over the gantry could help with print quality.
    Nothing much we're going to do about that with the Cubify slicer. This is F/W level code or hardware.
    The closest I've seen to bolt-on hardware is the diode snubbers that remove back EMF. That may be worth a try in time.

    These 3 prints above are all different settings. The one on the left is disturbing but I think I got a reason behind it.

    First of all, do not overlook the preview feature built into CubePro. After slicing your file, let the system load the file by replying "yes" to the dialog that pops up after the slicing is complete. Go to the view tab and set the view to top view. Uncheck the "all layers" checkbox, and zoom in with the "+". RMB for pan. Pan is seriously scaled wrong in Windows so do it before your ultimate zoom state. Now use the layer slider to see what is actually going to be printed.

    This part has some very thin sections. When printing with the Cube3, the system ignores this and does the best it can to be faithful to the model. I've been designing to these rules of slicing for going on 2 years. Now everything is different with CubePro. In CubePro, if a section is to thin, the slicer removes it! This part literally had 4 open slots where a thin wall should be! Why? Simple, this machine errors on the side "within the bounds" rather than best effort to "remain within the bounds". However, Cubify did give us a button to circumvent this noble action. They call it "fine detail" in the advanced slicer settings. It just gives the slicer license to fudge the results. All the parts above required the fine detail option to be used.

    The first time I noticed the fat lines similar to the print on the left is in the 3dbenchy model.Didn't explore it then but now I needed too. The model on the left was sliced with "almost solid" and the fine detail checked on. The lines you see are a shift in skins. When the shift happens, it draws a "mat" or fill layer to support the "change" in wall layers. These appear to not have been optimized for the "fine detail" option. Therefore, those layers specifically show in the skin of the print. Something to be aware off in this odd slicer.

    The next two prints, center and right, appear to be "normal and alike" but they are anything but. I don't remember the settings verbatim on the more flexible version but it does have the fine detail checked in the advanced settings. But I believe it was the thin print and infill. This print didn't do too bad. But when I was chasing the banding problem, I tried solid. Solid removes all infill including scaffolding. This print is solid and clean of slicer artifacts. And unlike Cube3, these are bonded seams. It appears that the developers had structural soundness in mind with this settings.

    Overall, the CubePro slicer is surgical in its delivery of filament. It dabs and dots every I and T it comes across not missing a one! It puts bond tacks in place before even making the wall features. It delivers a slow wall perimeter after very fast deposition of inner traces. So far, the CubePro slicer and the Cube3 slicer clock in at nearly the same print times.

    One thing I did notice in several runs... the narrower nozzle is less overhang tolerant. CubePro does a great job of bridging spans showing how well managed the output of the nozzle is, but when it comes to an offset in layers, it doesn't put anything extra. If a wall trace doesn't have anything to rest on, it droops. The next layer will not have the additional material to back-fill the droop. This might be the reason that 3DS choose to make the overhang angle 35 degrees rather than the 45 degrees we've all become use to.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Okay, so several days of playing with the CubePro is yielding a lot of great information.
    1st of all, solid prints are the bomb! This is a very forgiving option for external artifacts.
    However, the system seems to get a little "over-solid" where more material is deposited than required for the solid print.
    That means the center will get "thick" and may knock your print over.

    These are some images of my Ant Trap for hummingbird feeders:

    This part was processed at 200um. It has 5 wall layers and diamond infill. The sidewalk required stitching as shown.

    03162019_pro_1.PNG

    The seam is reasonably well managed. The seam being off at some odd 45 degree angle is a little more troublesome to deal with.
    The overhand artifact is normal even in Cube3 prints. CubePro managed that pretty well.

    03162019_pro_2.PNG

    The flat surface is very well managed...

    03162019_pro_3.PNG

    There are a lot of options and more options on top of that in the advanced menu.

    Not all will come out nicely... but some come out better than expected.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Interesting find today. As many know, I design parts with clearances to work with Cube3 prints.

    CubePro is fundamentally different in one respect; it doesn't fudge anything!
    The 3DS slicer may hose it, but not just call it good enough when it comes to the size of the part.

    You will find that the slicer removes walls if they get too thin.
    Most slicers will just ignore this and make the wall the minimum thickness even if it exceeds the "part envelope".
    Cube3 is that way too. And it works well all the way down to 0.9mm
    CubePro however removes the thin walls! How dumb is that!
    So the option in the advanced slicer settings to "Enable for best fine detail on parts" was added and is not the default.
    This setting allows the part to exceed the part envelope. Now it acts like every other slicer.

    I didn't do that for this last print. It was this gear set from Thingiverse. I know how Cube3 prints these.
    Cube3 produces a nice tight free-running set of gears.
    CubePro, without the fine detail setting, made these gears loose as a goose!
    In actuality, it stayed true to the external dimensions of the part which had significant clearance built into it for typical printer performances.

    Now it is time to start some experiments. I know that Maker's Muse has a test piece for this. I'll check it out.

    Bottom line; the Cube3 slicer and the CubePro slicer are two completely different animals that just happen to look the same.
    This really makes CubePro more of an engineering printer than a hobby printer.
    Last edited by TommyDee; 03-11-2019 at 06:49 PM.

  2. Likes bolsoncerrado liked this post
  3. #2
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Posts
    3,206
    Post Thanks / Like
    loose as a goose as a fail print you mean?

  4. #3
    Super Moderator
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Posts
    1,960
    Post Thanks / Like
    No, the planetary set holds together and functions properly, but all the print clearance I provided in the design is now obvious.
    This should mean that I can make screw threads to engineering specs rather than providing significant clearances.

 

 

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •