So you finally got that build plate -perfectly level- with your two or three nozzle CubePro.
And you confirmed this with printing a part that overlaps all the nozzles.
You make painstaking observations to ensure another nozzle won't destroy the structure as the nozzle glide over your your previous layers.
And you print only to find a bit of elephant foot on your prints... everything else is -absolutely- perfect!


Don't reach for those adjustment knobs just yet!

CubePro relies on a micro-switch to ensure the plate doesn't crash into your nozzles.
It sets the Z value at whatever the system considers Zero for your gcode.

I'm going to suggest that we can -increase- the gap slightly by adding shims on the build platform to activate the switch earlier.
Simple adhesive back dots of various thicknesses from packing tape, cellophane tape, even our beloved painters tape.
If you have a leather punch set, this is an easy way to make gap-dots.

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This method will allow you to tweak the gap by small amounts for various print anomalies.
This means you set your gap to where you know you want your minimal gap, which CubePro suggests is a mere piece of paper.
And I can assure you that the print quality at the foot of your print won't be what you really want.
3DS seems to have given up on their adhesion ability using only CubeGlue on their Cubify printers.
It is evident, through the changes made to Cube3 over time, that the build surface material and CubeGlue are insufficient to keep ABS from curling.
Sand the surface all you want, it won't matter. The glue simply does not have the adhesion needed to hold fast to the bed material.

My recommendation for gapping your CubePro is to #1, install Lokbuild. If you have BuildTac and like it, same assertion... use it! #2, use the thickness of a manila folder to gap your nozzles. It gives good tactile feedback when you are gapping to know all your nozzles are at the same level. And you can make a nice long gap tool so your reach is minimal for the back positions. This gap has already proven itself to avoid elephant foot using ABS on a standard CubePro v2.02 print.

Why do gaps change? They don't. But for those of us that want to expand the functionality of the CubePro will work with different files from different slicers. Each one will have some tweak for the initial gap. We cannot see what that setting is on v2.02 of CubePro. But we can for v1.87 or earlier. We can also see the gap in Cube3 files... or any of the 3rd party slicers where we want to insert code into a standard Cubify print file header and footer. Therefore, by default I recommend what works -best- for CubePro v2.02 as a default. This tweak option is for all the other possibilities where it is evident in the print that you want a little more gap without sacrificing the hard work to set up the system initially.