Thanks Thanks:  1
Likes Likes:  0
Dislikes Dislikes:  0
Results 1 to 3 of 3
  1. #1
    Super Moderator
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Posts
    2,153
    Post Thanks / Like

    Post CubePro Tip & Tricks

    I thought we could start a tip and tricks thread on the CubePro.

    After a bit of time with the CubePro, I am finding the slicer ... let's say... Interesting!

    I am also finding the hardware to be "interesting".

    I'm sure people have gathered some of the ins and outs of this this platform that they could share with others.

    Here are a couple of mine:

    CubePro Hardware:

    a) This is a monster! Everyone knows this, but it must be said. A stable hard surface helps keep the rest of the house sane for others. Even then, it could easily drone on a person in short order. Although the slicer has a smooth IO call in the config that is enabled, it sure doesn't seem like it. Simply a lot of flying weight that shakes everything shakeable. The enclosure does help to minimize the higher pitch sounds.

    b) The cantilevered build plate adds a lot to artifacts. The only help to offer is to build to the back of the build plate. These artifact become more notable as the print gets taller. One missing element in the core structure are diagonal braces. That may just become a worthwhile upgrade at some point.

    c) The Glue-N-Pray process of sticking ABS for the duration of the print, and <laugh> anti-curling is not resolved with a stock build surface no matter how much you sand and glue the build plate. This requires intervention. The formula for doing this is simple if you get over the need for glue. I am using LokBuild with CubeGlue which is making for adhesion that rivals anything I've seen to date. And there is a caveat to this; LokBuild maintains the glue rather than the part! Only a very thin layer of glue is required. Basically, the glue is reusable. I bought a water spritzer that really helps in refreshing the glue after a print. The heated chamber helps but you do need to let the ABS part cool with the chamber before removing it. The results are amazing!

    d) Leveling the plate to the nozzles (Duo/Trio) is a real challenge. Not one you want to repeat too often. That also means you don't want to have thing go wrong with the nozzles. You will find that the plates are not perfectly flat in some cases. I have maybe a 20um warp in mine which is still excellent by machining standards for a pro-summer product with this size plate. But you need to compensate for this to find the best average. The recommended process is to print a maximum perimeter. Determine where the best balance is on one extruder by measuring the width of the trace all-around. Once you dial that in, set the other extruder(s) with a gap gauge of your choosing to match the one you calibrated the level with. You want this near dead-nuts as you can get it. This requires loosening the extruder and carefully adjusting this. Less than fun but you do have decent access through the top if you move the carriage to the center. Obviously, you don't want to touch the build plate adjustment after this! Any service required on the extruders should be gapped to the other nozzle still in place.

    e) Minor gap adjustments can be made without changing the build plate elevation. I highly recommend leaving the build plate adjustment alone for the duration of your usage once the printer is put into service and calibrated. I can see things change a little if you do move the machine to a different surface, so the large brim-print could be used to test the calibration after moving the machine. Again, you are simply making the plate parallel to the gantry. This tip means that you want your gap to be minimal when you adjust the initial gap when calibrating the machine. You can add gap quickly by putting tape dots under the micro-switch on the left side at the build plate bearing that senses the top of the z-adjustment. Very simple and very repeatable. Again, calibrate your initial gap at the minimum gap you would ever desire and increase the gap using this method.

    f) Preheating the chamber and by extension, the build plate will help mission critical prints remain intact. The chill on a build plate can affect adhesion of the first few layers to each other. A preheat print file can get things up to temp before you put a first layer down that requires critical dimensional accuracy and proper adhesion for subsequent layers. I've seen some issues on first-prints on of the first layer de-laminating in a few areas requiring removal of material. A subsequent print when things are up to temp do not exhibit such anomalies. That means the heater is doing its job in preheating the build plate. And by the same token, as mentioned above, let your ABS and PLA prints cool a for a bit before trying to remove them from the build plate. I am suggesting that some of the warp we see is due to removal, not necessarily the print process itself. Leave the print in the chamber and let everything come down in temperature at the same time. This should provide a small degree of annealing at the same time.

    g) The platform does exhibit some offset issues. I've come down to two possible causes. 1) Power brownouts: something that could cause the extruders to coast without stepper counts being accounted for. These are known as power sags where a cycle or two are missing and the software simply "glitches" and overlooks the coasting of the gantry. I have a laser printer that sags my whole house when it boots up. I know this because my UPS kicks in on my network router every time I start a new print on my paper printer. 2) Similar to 1 above but a glitch introduced by the application. Red herring or not, I suspect there is a bug in the communication between the machine and the application. The shift I experienced recently came right about the time I closed the application. If you want to eliminate this possibility, shut down the CubePro application prior to beginning your print, or leave it alone for the duration of the print. This is one issue that really needs a solution or understanding.

    I'll add some application tips and tricks soon.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    Interesting finding yesterday when comparing a v2.02 print with a v1.87 print. They are definitely different animals. We definitely need to break the V2 encryption. The current decoder stops or chokes at a G50 command which I've never seen in a Cubify print file before.

  2. Thanks bolsoncerrado thanked for this post
  3. #2
    3D Printer Noob
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Posts
    3
    Post Thanks / Like
    So i had an abs "wedgie" in the hotend today (thanks to a hateful chunk of old pla floating in the tube) and had to take the nozzle off. The directions that 3ds provides are enough to get through it -- just don't drop the tiny sensor screws. I did not look at their directions for adjusting the nozzle height, though, and instead used this technique.

    Once I had the nozzle back in place but not snugged down, I mounted a dial indicator to the build plate support and zeroed out on the nozzle that remained in the machine. I then moved the other nozzle into position over the dial indicator and got it pretty damn close and snugged. The real tip is this (I can't take credit -- a bit from bytes tech support guy suggested it but at the time I thought it hackish -- i can admit to being wrong). I put a sheet of sand paper on the build plate and raised it (power off, by hand) until it just touched the nozzle(s). Then just moved the carriage around to sand the nozzles into sync with each other. I was within about a 1/4 of a thou before I started so it did not take much off and I moved around the build plate to make sure I wasn't on a high spot. Viola.

    I did use the dial indicator to set the build plate level prior to using this machine too. I laid a piece of flat stock across the x axis rail and adjusted the screw heads (where the build plate magnets touch) to each other. I then installed the build plate and used the level build plate routine in the machine to creep up to a piece of paper contact with the nozzles. I adjusted all knobs the same amount until it started touching and then tuned the others by 1/8 turns until even.

    Old pla *$#%@ donkey &$*^^ in the #$@$% with %^^$$#$ and small $%$#^^@#$%!

  4. #3
    Super Moderator
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Posts
    2,153
    Post Thanks / Like
    Interesting concept. I really don't want to set that beast up again. And another good reason not to feed it PLA

 

 

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •