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  1. #41
    Regular 3D Printer
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    I checked a bit on CPU thermal compounds and got a bit dissapointed. Most have a work temperature range only up to 100-120. Work temperature was not even listed in the comparison listings for the different brands. Finally i found one with a working temp up to 250.
    So be carefull with what compound you use, it might have unwanted effects if it can't handle the temperature.

  2. #42
    3D Printer Noob
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    @sm0orb ... good point. Yes, mine is low rated. If I Google ... thermal grease 250 degrees C ... I came up with "Antec Formula 6 Nano Diamond Thermal Compound" ... Extended -30°C to 250°C ... but I also read that "paste" is better than "compound". Thoughts?

  3. #43
    Regular 3D Printer
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    "Paste" or "Compound" are probably just depending on the manufacturer language. The box i got is made by Fischer Elekronik in Germany and they call it "Wärmeleitpaste" wish they translate to "Thermal compound". Don't say on the box whats in it but looking at the fact sheet at the store (ELFA) they write silicon oil/metal oxide powder. Think the one you found will do although not quit happy with 250°C would like closer to 300 so thats not the limiting factor. But the to find some....

  4. #44
    3D Printer Legend
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  5. #45
    3D Printer Noob
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    This is a major issue with all RepRap based printers... The thermistor isn't mounted properly and can come out. After I turned on my machine for the first time, this happened to me also, and since I didn't know any better, I let the extruder overheat for most of the first day. My whole house smelled like burnt PLA.

    This abuse resulted in a burnt Teflon tube inside the extruder which took me another couple of days to figure out.

    The symptom of that fault: Very intermittent or no extrusion / clogging...What a mess! Ordered some tubing on-line then worked almost perfect, except for extruder leakage, so during a very long print (11 hours for a pretty vase) got a few dingleberries in the print...

    Solved that issue by cutting another piece of the teflon tubing a this time a little longer (no more than .2 or .3 mm), and then using the excess Teflon for a sort of a seal... This has to be pre-flared (I used a center punch) before the assembly of the hot end, otherwise your filament will start sticking. All better now...

    A couple of very useful resources:

    http://reprap.org/wiki/Print_Troubleshooting_Pictorial_Guide


    and





    by fast talking Tom who has many videos on 3d printing, very informative.

    BTW I do think that the exhaust putty would probably work best, as the CPU pastes and compounds don't seem to have much "body" to them.. Good luck and keep on posting and sharing your experiences, we'll get this right eventually. I happen to love the learning process...

  6. #46
    Regular 3D Printer
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    I set the extruder steps to 194 which extracts filament true to life. Why everyone's extruder step is different?

  7. #47
    Expert 3D Printer
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    Mine is set to 200.

    I don't know why everyone is different.
    I thought we exactly had the same product

  8. #48
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    Where do u find out "extruder step" setting?

  9. #49
    Expert 3D Printer
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    you can find it in : configuration h

    in : Default axis steps per unit
    the first is for X
    the second for Y
    the third for Z
    and the last for the extruder

    Sans titre-1.jpg
    Last edited by SAO; 01-26-2015 at 10:11 AM.

  10. #50
    Expert 3D Printer
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    I suppose you know how to do to mesure the quantity of material extruded and even to adjust the rate.

    If not, you draw with a pen a point on the filament just before it enter in the extruder, and 10 cm highter.

    you extrude 10 cm with repetier and if it extrude less or more than the 10 cm, you just have to ajust the rate.

    Normally it is set to 160.
    So if it extrude 80 instead of 100 mm, you adjust 160 / 0.8 = 200

    You can extrude after the change in order to confirm you have done right
    Last edited by SAO; 02-01-2015 at 10:43 PM.

 

 

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