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  1. #1
    3D Printer Noob
    Join Date
    Jul 2019
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    CR-10 Part Not Sticking to Plate

    I have 2 CR-10s. One I've had for 2 yrs. and the other for 6 mos. Both were working great. Had builttech on old printer and glass/hairspray on new. Buildtech was damaged, hard to remove parts, etc. so went back to glass/hairspray on both. Things worked great for a while. Suddenly parts were coming off the plate on old printer. Changed profiles, slowed feed rate, re-leveled many times, re-adjusted initial Z height---all to no avail So took hot end apart, replaced heat break tube, nozzle, and installed Capricorn bowden tube. Tried same print, same result. Took extruder apart and inspected/cleaned gear. Re-installed, tried same print/same result. Thought might be hairspray or plate prep or bad filament. Took all over to new printer along with sd card of test part. Printed fine. Thought might be bad stepper on extruder, so installed stepper and extruder from new on old and tried print. Same result. Friend suggested that I may have inadvertently added a Z-axis offset. Checked and it was zero.

    Although this was not an easy and perfect thing to check, I started by auto-homing to paper thickness height. Then started a print, and while on 1st layer, stopped the print. Disabled the steppers so I could move the head in X & Y and checked nozzle height. Even with some filament in the way, it was obvious that the Z height was significantly higher than the initial setting. This would make sense if I had set a Z offset, but had not.

    Does anyone have experience with this problem. I suspect a motherboard problem--maybe a stepper driver going bad. The last thing I will try is to swap the the control box from my newer printer. Any help much appreciated.
    Last edited by kclowen; 07-22-2019 at 05:26 AM.

  2. #2
    Super Moderator
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
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    This is a highly intriguing story. Your dedication to solving this problem is exemplary.

    Your attempt to move the entire hiatus to the other printer and had it come out correctly is the one move that really nailed this as being strange.

    To rule out mechanical issues completely you might consider a "double layer" build plate. Basically set up you build surface at a much higher elevation.
    This will rule out a mechanical issue around the homing position by moving the homing Z position for the test.

    Is there any way you can confirm that both processors are running identical code? Any accessible buffers that may hold a clue? I know little about F/W but it seems there is indeed a difference. Is there a 'restore to factory' code that can be sent to the printer? Is re-flashing the F/W an option?

    Looking forward to reading about the solution to this enigma.

    - - - - - - - - - -

    ...oh, and welcome to the forum.

  3. #3
    3D Printer Noob
    Join Date
    Jul 2019
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    Thanks for the input Tommy. I talked to a neighbor friend last night who is some what of an expert with these things. He pointed out that the initial setting (auto-home) is just a zeroing function and not the initial print height. It serves as a reference in that you can have the nozzle hit the table so you try to get it about .0015" to .002" above the plate. The adds a small amount to the initial print height which is .2 to .3 mm above the plate. So my finding did not resolve anything.

    I do not have the capability to flash my F/W. However, my friend pointed out the the F/W in my old printer might be outdated and a later version in my new printer. I have updated Cura to version 4.0 and that may be part of the problem. More investigation today--will update.

  4. #4
    Super Moderator
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    Nov 2016
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    A lot of moving parts Good luck!

  5. #5
    Administrator bolsoncerrado's Avatar
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    Nov 2014
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    Did you check the start Gcode as well?

 

 

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