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  1. #11
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    There are 3 different hub modules on Thingiverse. The one you linked is the most stylish of the bunch. Personally, I prefer the stock case only in the fact that it is the best fitting of all of them. And if the latch wings break off, which they will eventually, there is a replacement for that too.

    To use the quick connect with the stock case, you would use this Thingiverse bulkhead

    Also have a look at the predecessor of the B2B nozzle.

    I offer these only that they represent a lot less printing

    You will also find that the ABS carts are not to bad. Cube3 does very well with their branded ABS if you can get your design to not curl on the edges. Just don't try to run 3rd party ABS using the ABS slicer. We have the Ekocycle slicer for that ;p

    - - - - - - - - - -

    ...and you're in luck. I included the print file for the Thingiverse nozzle in ABS on the left side for 2 nozzle sets. These will also be properly oriented
    I guess I should ask of you have fittings with M5 threads, huh.

  2. #12
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    Tubing
    Outer diameter: 4mm for 1.75mm filament

    Inner diameter: 2mm for 1.75mm filament

    Fittings
    M/6 Thread :/

  3. #13
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    Oops That won't fly on my nozzles. I should be able to do M6 on the bulkhead though. Let me know if you'd like to go there.

  4. #14
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    Oops hit return and posted before I was done.

    Are you suggesting the Cube Print program's slicer for ABS is not any good? Aside from my jamming and warping it's been working well for me. Only thing it doesn't do for me as far as I can tell is auto-place rafts.

  5. #15
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    No, I like the ABS slicer but the only material it prints properly is 3D Systems ABS. It runs about 10C hotter than most 3rd party ABS'
    I was getting really annoyed at one point to get a beautiful natural color ABS working on the Cube3. It was driving me nuts as it was doing exactly what another ABS was doing, blowing little holes in the print. Then, my hero, swwinterry wrote a recompiler for the cube3 files and that opened up the cube completely. I was able to learn that in fact it was not a filament problem but a retraction problem at the elevated temperatures of 3DS ABS. I cut the temp from 260 to 245-250C and that beautiful natural color ABS was absolutely stunning. Since then I've learned that 3rd party ABS and I assume all PETG will run perfectly from an 'offline Ekocycle' printer selected. We can then edit the file to run on the Cube3 firmware rather than the Ekocycle firmware.

    Rafts?

  6. #16
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    Ah I think I understand what you’re saying.

    Rafts are fulfill the same purpose as sidewallks but cover the bottom of the print too. As my tiles are double squares with a gap in between sidewalks are not helping.

    ill need to have a think about the fittings. Perhaps I can use an m6 to m4 adaptor

  7. #17
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    Aha.. yes, but rafts only show up in 3D Builder. Are you running an early version of CubePrint with rafts?

    (M5) adapter huh... No, basically I need to change the core to stick out a little more with an M6 thread instead.

    There are some brass M6 threads out there that are a frenckenmess. They are not exactly 1mm pitch and the threads are 'sharp'. I've had a lot of trouble fitting these into a proper M6 thread.

    However, if you do decide you wish to try this nozzle, I'll be happy to get an M6 version spun up sometime soon.
    Last edited by TommyDee; 09-27-2019 at 08:15 AM.

  8. #18
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    No my cube print doesn’t have that functionality, that was my gripe xD

    i noticed you mention cooling towers on one of the thingverse things, is that a special setting or does the stl have it as part of it? I’ve seen them referenced before but know next to nothing about them

  9. #19
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    I called them cooling towers but someone has since adopted 'purge tower' officially. Purge towers do two things, one; ensure the printer doesn't opt into a 'slow mode' when no enough time is spent on one layer and it also helps when you need to let the last layer cool a little (cooling tower) before adding yet more hot plastic. Sometimes I will put it nearby and sometimes a distance away forcing the part out from under the hotend.

    You can do rafts. But you need 3D Builder on Windows 10 and a whole lot of patience. 3D Builder does have a free SDK for printing directly to Cube3 on the right side USB port, the big square connector. 3D Builder uses an earlier slicer and is otherwise remarkable. It uses rafts instead of sidewalks. Does an ABS Marvin nearly perfectly including the loop. Patience comes in with the driver remaining functional. The moment you look at the 3D print driver, it -will- fail to be seen again. It requires special permission that is null'd when you mess with the driver. Then you end up with a name issue when you reinstall the driver again without first removing the corrupted version.

  10. #20
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    This is what I bought push fitting wise. I can’t see something similar in the thingverse photos so I’m wondering I’ve got something completely different from what you designed for.

    https://www.trademe.co.nz/electronic...2326500841.htm

    i also got my tubing from the same guy. Intention was I would therefore know the fitting would take the tube properly

    https://www.trademe.co.nz/electronic...2326500775.htm

 

 

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